Pruning before winter can reshape young plants and achieve early high yields. The relationship between growth and fruiting of fruit-bearing plants must be adjusted so that the plants maintain strong fruit-bearing ability, extend their lifespan and fruit-bearing years, and achieve high-yield and high-quality grapes.

Prune when appropriate. Prune in mid-October, not too early or too late. If it is too early, nutrients cannot be fully transported to the old vines and roots, causing nutrient loss; if it is too late, it will affect the cold protection work. When pruning, pruning to leave 1 to 3 buds on the fruiting vine is called short-shoot pruning; pruning to leave 2 to 4 buds is called mid-shoot pruning; cutting to leave 8 to 12 buds is called mid-shoot pruning. Trim long tips. It is best to use a combination of long, medium and short methods.

Pruning method. For varieties with strong plant growth, low bud-bearing rate at the base, and mature mother branches with good fruiting, long-cut pruning is required. For parts with more blind spots and large gaps on the frame, the gaps should be filled in and long-term. On the contrary, short-cut pruning should be performed. With such pruning, the germination rate of the first bud eye at the base is better, the percentage of fruiting branches is higher, and the yield per plant is high.

Update pruning. Renewal and pruning of mother vines includes single branch and double branch regeneration. Single-branch regeneration means that during winter pruning, only the current-year branches are left in the fruiting parts; double-branch pruning means that two current-year branches are left in each fruiting part; long-shoot or short-shoot pruning is carried out according to the specific situation. In this way, you can Control the polar growth of grapes, move the fruiting parts outward, and keep the trees strong and vigorous.

Continue pruning. Before the main vines climb up the shelf, the extension branches should be left long, with 10 to 12 nodes and a length of 110 cm to 120 cm. The thick ones should be left long and the thin ones short. If the extension branches are left too long, although the main vines will grow quickly, due to too many remaining buds, some buds will not fully germinate and form "blind eyes", which will cause great trouble for subsequent pruning. Especially for Kyoho grapes, because the branches and vines grow thickly, they are often reluctant to prune, which makes them more likely to remain. During the reshaping stage of saplings, in order to prevent accidental breakage of extended branches, the new shoots with the closest tips should be selected as preparatory long branches. When pruning before winter, the vines should be selected to be thick, dark in color, and with short internodes. When pruning, try to keep extension branches and shorten the preparation branches into fruiting mother branches. If the extension branch is not good, it is necessary to "change the head", that is, use the preparation branch.

The main vine light rod remedy. During pre-winter pruning, it is often encountered that there are no new shoots for a long period of time on the main vine, and there is a large distance between the upper and lower fruiting branches. The remedy is: when pruning before winter, appropriately extend the length of the fruiting branch at the lower part of the broken space, cultivate small side vines, and select the fruiting mother branch on the small side vine to fill the gap. In order to make the small side vine close to the main vine, in summer When pruning, tie the small side vines against the main vines. You can also use the fruiting mother branches adjacent to the main vines to fill in the gaps. When pruning before winter, take care of the coordination between the main vines.