Planting techniques of loquat
First, the establishment of the orchard:
(1) Selection of orchard land: First, the orchard should be built in a place with convenient transportation. Loquat has strong adaptability to soil, but it is better to choose deep and fertile slightly acidic soil with H value of about 6-6.5.
(2) Soil improvement in orchard: Because loquat roots are shallow in distribution, weak in spreading ability and poor in wind resistance, it is necessary to dig deep into the soil or press green in ditches or big holes, plant seedlings in ditches or big holes (if the soil layer is less than 50 cm, it is necessary to change the soil by blasting), and then expand the holes outward every year to dig deep into the soil and turn green, so as to improve soil permeability and fertility, and introduce roots into the soil to enhance root growth and expand the root system. For flat land or cohesive soil, ditches with a width of 40 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm should be drained every 2-4 hours.
(3) Seedling planting: 1. Planting time. Loquat should be planted in spring to avoid freezing injury in cold areas in winter. Winter is warm in most parts of the south, and it can be planted from September to March of the following year, but 10- 1 1 is the best.
2. Seedling treatment. Before planting, the seedlings must be soaked with fungicides such as carbendazim for 15-30 minutes, and the seedlings must be soaked to a height above 10 cm, which is one of the key measures to improve the survival rate. Mud planting. The transpiration of loquat leaves is large, so 1/2-2/3 of all leaves and all shoots should be cut off when planting. Spray water on the leaves 3-4 times a day.
3. Planting density. There are several planting methods for low-density early-growing orchards, such as plant spacing 13m or 1.52m (planting 222 plants) and 23m (planting per mu 1 1 plant).
4. Planting method. When planting, the roots should be evenly distributed and pressed into the soil in layers, preferably just covering the root neck, and the root neck part should be higher than the surrounding ground 10-20cm. Then build a ridge around the plants, and water the roots in the ridge. Each plant must be watered thoroughly with 20-25 kg of water, which is the key to improve the survival rate of seedlings. After water permeates into the soil, it is covered with a layer of fine soil, and finally the area of tree disk 1 m2 is covered with a film to keep the soil moisture and raise the ground temperature. If it is dry for a long time after planting, you should continue to water it.
Fertilization: Loquat is an evergreen fruit tree with lush leaves and many flowers, which needs more fertilizer than deciduous fruit trees. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be used together. Young trees are mainly nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, and adult trees are supplemented by potassium fertilizers. Fertilization time must be determined in combination with the growth of branches and roots. Loquat has four peaks of picking bamboo shoots in a year, mainly in spring (February-April), summer (May-June), autumn (August-September) and winter (11-65438+February), mainly in spring, summer and autumn. The root activity and shoot growth of loquat changed alternately. Generally, the growth of root system is about 2 weeks earlier than that of shoot, and there are 3-4 growth peaks in a year, that is, the first time is from the end of October to the beginning of March, and this time the growth amount is the largest, the second time is from mid-May to mid-June, the third time is from mid-August to September, and the third time is165438+/kloc. Combined with the growth characteristics of roots and branches, adult orchards can generally fertilize three times a year.
Apply spring bamboo shoots fertilizer for the first time, in the first half of February. At this time, the root system is at the first growth peak, which is convenient to absorb nutrients and mainly plays the role of promoting spring shoots and increasing fruits. Because spring shoots can be the fruiting branches of the year and the base branches of summer and autumn shoots, this fertilization is more important, accounting for about 30% of the whole year, mainly with quick-acting fertilizers, and applying potassium fertilizer at the same time to promote the expansion of young fruits. 30 kg of urea, 30 kg of superphosphate (phosphate fertilizer) 15 kg, 30 kg of potassium sulfate (potash fertilizer) and about 1000 kg of human and animal manure can be applied per mu.
The second application of summer shoot fertilizer is after fruit picking from mid-May to early June (before fruit picking for late-maturing varieties). This is the second growth peak of root system, which mainly promotes summer shoots and flower bud differentiation from July to August. Because summer shoots germinate regularly and most of them can form fruiting branches in the same year, popularizing summer shoots is the main measure to ensure high yield every year. Therefore, the amount of fertilization this time is very large, accounting for about 50% of the whole year. Quick-acting chemical fertilizer is mixed with organic fertilizer, and all phosphorus fertilizers are applied (to facilitate flower bud differentiation). Generally, urea 100 kg, phosphate fertilizer (calcium superphosphate) 30 kg and organic fertilizer 2000 -3000 kg are applied per mu.
The third application of autumn fertilizer or pre-flowering fertilizer is from September to 65438+1early October, accounting for about 20% of the whole year after heading and before flowering, which mainly promotes good flowering, improves fruit setting and increases cold-proof and overwintering ability. The main fertilizer is slow-acting fertilizer, with urea 10 kg per mu and organic fertilizer 1000- 1500 kg per mu.
Fertilization of young trees adopts the principle of thin application and diligent application. The first fertilization, from planting survival to germination, is mainly composed of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer and clear water fertilizer. Fertilize every 1 month/time until 1 0 month. For the first time, 2.5 kilograms of urea, 5 kilograms of calcium superphosphate and 250 kilograms of clear water fertilizer were applied per mu, and then increased month by month. Fertilize 1 time in February, April, June, August and June of the following year. After sowing in spring, every 10 day, in April-May, use potassium dihydrogen phosphate to increase the density of clouds 120 or Yuntai element, spray pesticides for killing pests and diseases once, and spray them continuously for 4-5 times. It is very important to take this technical measure to improve the survival rate of seedlings.
Orchard intercropping and deep ploughing, irrigation and drainage: young loquat orchards can be intercropped with bean crops, vegetables and strawberries. But it is best to plant green manure, cut it off in April-August and cover it in a tree tray. Adult orchards can be covered with weeds or crop straws from April to September, and pressed into orchards when fertilizing or expanding holes and improving soil in autumn, which can not only enrich the soil, but also keep the soil moist in summer and reduce the ground temperature, which is beneficial to plant growth. Covering the tree tray in winter is beneficial to loquat overwintering. Plough the whole garden once in winter, with the depth of 10-20 cm.
Deep turn. In autumn, orchards planted in ditches and pits should be expanded and deeply cultivated with weeds, straws and phosphate fertilizer. The whole park will be turned upside down in 3-5 years. It is beneficial to guide the root system to grow downward and increase the ability to absorb fertilizer.
Drainage and irrigation. If there is too much rain during the ripening period of loquat fruit, it is easy to cause poor coloring and fruit cracking, so attention should be paid to drainage in rainy areas. During the spring drought, young fruits are developing (March-April) and should be properly irrigated. Summer drought seriously affects the differentiation of flower buds and the growth and development of flower spikes, especially in August-September. If the weather is dry, irrigation should be used to fight drought.
4. Shaping and pruning: Shaping and pruning is the key to the success of loquat close planting garden and the most important technology.
(1) Shaping: The branches of loquat have obvious regularity. The terminal bud has strong growth potential, while the axillary bud is small but not obvious, and the growth potential is weak. When budding, the terminal bud and several nearby axillary buds are branched, while the axillary buds below are hidden buds. The terminal bud extends upward as the central branch, and the axillary bud extends around as the lateral branch. Therefore, the central trunk of loquat is very obvious, and the layering of the tree is obvious. In order to adapt to this feature, dense planting gardens often adopt small crown trunks with layered (32m) and fan-shaped (21.5m). The forming method is as follows:
1, small crown trunk stratotype: evolved from the trunk stratotype, this tree has high yield and heavy load, and is suitable for loquat close planting gardens, with a spacing of 32 meters (planting per mu 1 1 plant). The trunk is 30-40 cm high, and the four main branches of the first layer form an included angle of 60 -70 degrees with the central trunk, and the three main branches of the second layer form an included angle of 45 degrees with the central trunk. The two main branches of the third floor form an included angle of 30 degrees with the central trunk. After 3-4 years of plastic surgery, the height of the plastic tree is about 2.5 meters. Later, as the tree grows older, it should be happy to lower its head and reduce the number of main branches. The shaping method is as follows: 30-40cm seedlings are selected for field planting without pruning after planting. When the terminal bud and lateral bud (axillary bud) germinate, let the terminal bud grow naturally. Four axillary buds are selected as the main branches of the first layer, which extend in four directions to make them form an included angle of 70 degrees with the central trunk (which can be fixed with bamboo poles), and the remaining branches are wound when the branches stop growing in the middle and early July. If the lateral branches germinated from the central trunk for the second time are less than 40 cm away from the first layer, they are twisted at 30 cm; If the branch is more than 40 cm away from the first floor, it will be selected as the main branch of the second floor, with an angle of 50 -60 degrees with the central trunk, and the main branches of the third and fourth floors will be selected in the same way (with an angle of 30 -45 degrees with the center). Cut off the central trunk when leaving the fourth main branch. In addition to the terminal bud of the main branch, the back branches of other lateral branches are wound into rings in mid-July to promote flowering.
2. Fan shape. Fan ventilation has good light transmission, high early output, good productivity, excellent quality and quick effect. Suitable for close planting orchards. The suitable row spacing is 2m, the plant spacing is 1.5m, and 222 plants are planted per mu. The main shaping method is: when planting seedlings in the first year, plant them in the north-south direction, and the branches of the first layer are inclined to the southeast and northwest direction between rows, forming an angle of 45 degrees with the rows, and all branches extending between trees are pruned and removed. The distance between the second layer branches and the first layer branches is 50-60 cm, the direction is the same as that of the first layer branches, and the height of the tree body is controlled at about 2 meters.
(2) Pruning: Young trees (1-3-year-old, plastic period) are generally not pruned, resulting in more branches. Except for keeping the main branch growing at a predetermined angle, all other branches were twisted and cut in a ring shape when the new branches stopped growing in July. Leveling the non-main branches from the central trunk to promote early flowering, and properly thinning the branches in the second and third years.
Adult trees are mainly pruned twice in spring and summer, and spring pruning is combined with fruit thinning in February and March, mainly removing weak branches, dense branches and long branches to increase the occurrence of spring shoots and reduce the number of years. Summer pruning is carried out after fruit picking, mainly to remove dense branches, twigs, pests and diseases in order to improve light. For plants that are too high, it is happy to shrink back to the central trunk. Part of the branches moved outward are retracted, so that the distance between rows is 0.8- 1 m, and the fruit axis of fruit piles or fruiting branches is not excessively crossed, which promotes summer shoots and high yield every year.
Verb (abbreviation of verb) fruit setting adjustment and fruit management;
(1) Fruit setting adjustment: Fruit setting adjustment mainly adopts measures such as thinning fruit or keeping flowers and fruits, so that the orchard can reach a reasonable yield, produce high-quality commercial fruit and achieve high yield every year.
1, thinning flowers and fruits: loquat shoots are easy to bloom in spring and summer. Generally, there are 60- 100 flowers per panicle, and the flower yield is only 5%. Therefore, in order to produce high-quality commercial fruits, Dawuxing loquat must remove redundant flowers, especially a considerable number of flowers and young fruits. At the end of June, 65438+ 10 to June 165438+ 10. For trees with too many spikes, some spikes should be thinned from the base; Medium-sized trees can have sparse spikes 1/2. In short, the number of sparse flowers is determined according to the number of flowers. After proper flower thinning, the ear can get enough nutrients, increase the resistance to adverse environment and improve the fruit setting rate. Fruit thinning should be carried out after the warm spring in February and March. Remove some small fruits and diseased fruits, and leave about 1-3 fruits per ear according to the situation.
2. Flower and fruit protection: For some varieties with low fruit setting rate and plants with few flowers, as well as areas with freezing injury in winter, we should do a good job in flower and fruit protection, and thin the excess fruits after mid-March to ensure high yield. The main methods to protect flowers and fruits are:
① Spraying 0.8% loquat daguoling in the first year165438+1early October (before flowering), the second year's 65438+late February (after flowering) and the middle of 65438+1October (please refer to the instructions for use).
② Spraying 65,438+00 mg/L (65,438+00 ppm) of 920 at withering stage can improve the fruit setting rate by 38.5%;
③ Spraying 0.25% potassium dihydrogen phosphate (KH2P = 4) containing 0.2% urea and 0. 1% borax on the leaves at 2/3 flowering stage can increase the fruit setting rate by 34%.
3. Measures to promote flowering: In loquat dense planting garden, measures should be taken to promote flower bud differentiation in July and August for plants with strong tree potential, especially those with secondary branches in spring and summer, so that they can blossom and bear fruit in autumn and winter. The main methods are:
① Spraying 1 500PPM 15% paclobutrazol or 350 times PB in early July and early August respectively.
(2) At the beginning of July, when the summer shoots stop growing, the branches are leveled, twisted, and cut in a ring shape (cut for three times, with the spacing of each circle being 1 cm), and peeled and pasted in a ring shape.
(3) Pay attention to the drainage work from July to September, and keep proper drought.
(2) fruit management:
1, measures to increase fruit:
① Spraying 30PPM chlorpyrifos (CPPV)+500 ppm 920(GA) on young fruits at the end of February, March and mid-April can increase fruits.
② Soak the fruit twice with loquat daguoling 100 times solution at the end of March and early April (10 day 1 time).
③ Most fruits should be sprayed 1 time at the end of flowering period (5 days after flowering) and young fruit period (within 10- 15 days after flowering) (50 kg of water should be added to each package). It can improve the fruit setting rate and increase the fruit.
(4) In the middle of March, remove excessive young fruits and small fruits.
2. Fruit bagging: Fruit bagging can prevent purple spot, fruit sucking moth and bird damage, and reduce fruit cracking after rain. At the same time, it can avoid spraying liquid medicine on the surface of the fruit, which makes the fruit have good color and beautiful appearance and improves the quality and commodity value of the fruit. Bagging time should be carried out after the last fruit thinning, usually from late March to early April. Before bagging, a mixture of broad-spectrum pesticides and fungicides must be sprayed. The bagging paper used can be old newspapers and special fruit bags. Large fruits can be packed in bags, and small fruits can be packed in bags. Start at the top of the tree and then go down to the coat. The mouth of the bag is tied tightly with thread, or it can be nailed firmly with a stapler.
3. Fruit harvesting: It is best to harvest loquat fruits in batches when the pericarp is completely colored and mature, and the first colored fruit should be harvested first. If it is a long-distance transportation, harvest it early. Because loquat skin is thin, tender and juicy, and there is a layer of fluff on the skin, you should be especially careful when picking it. You should hold the ear or stem in your hand and cut it carefully to avoid scratching the fluff on the surface of the fruit and hurting the fruit. After picking it, gently put it into the fruit basket, which contains brown potato chips or grass. It is best to harvest in the morning, afternoon or cloudy day. Never harvest in heavy rain or scorching sun.
Six, pest control:
(1) Disease control:
1. Carcinomatosis, alias bud blight: occurred in March-April. Black ulcers appear on the mother buds of new shoots, showing the symptoms of bud withering, which often makes the lateral buds cluster, and the diseased spots on the leaves are black with obvious yellow halo. The surface ulcer of damaged fruit is rough, and the surface of fruit stalk has longitudinal crack. At the beginning of the injury, the branches were yellow-brown irregular spots with rough surface. After the injury, the annular uplift and turtle cracks exposed the dark brown xylem, which became cancerous, leading to the branches dying. It is a bacterial disease, and the pathogen overwinters in the diseased part of the trunk.
Prevention and control:
① Strengthen orchard management, pay attention to drainage, enhance the disease resistance of fruit trees, cut off diseased branches in time, collect diseased leaves and fruits in time and burn them with fire to remove the source of the disease.
② Spraying Sheng Da M-45 8000 times or 1200- 1500 times of Domaine 1-2 times at the early stage of onset (early March).
2. Other diseases: leaf spot disease: harmful to leaves, with polygonal spots, reddish brown and yellow halo outside. In the later stage, Auricularia auricula is punctate and overwinters with hyphae and conidia, which occurs in warm areas all the year round.
Gray spot disease: the leaves are damaged, and the lesion is round or irregular after healing, reddish brown, the center is grayish yellow and the outer edge is grayish brown. In the late stage, black spots appeared on the diseased leaves, sometimes arranged in a ring shape, and conidia and hyphae overwintered on the diseased leaves.
Leaf pollution: It mostly occurs on the reverse side of leaves. At first, it is dirty brown spots or irregular, and then it grows coal-black mold, which can cover the whole leaves and overwinter on the diseased leaves with conidia and hyphae.
Red rust: it harms leaves and produces orange-yellow to yellowish-brown rust spots, which are granular and have an outer membrane and do not fly away. Removing fallen leaves and spraying protection are effective for this.
Purple spot disease: purple rust spot only occurs on fruits, which only affects the appearance and hardly affects the meat quality. The symptoms of loquat fruit suddenly appeared in the late ripening stage, which was related to sunlight exposure. The most effective control measure is fruit bagging.
Prevention and treatment of the above diseases:
(1) pay attention to remove fallen leaves, combine pruning, remove diseased branches and leaves, do a good job of drainage in rainy season, strengthen management and enhance tree potential.
② Spraying 1: 1: 160 bordeaux mixture after new leaves grow out or spraying 1200- 1500 times polymyxin at the initial stage of the disease.
(2) Pest control: 1. Yellow caterpillar: when larvae bite loquat buds and leaves, the leaves are almost eaten up for a long time, and the loss is more serious when young trees are injured. Pupa overwinters in cracks and depressions in bark or on the back of old leaves, and adults appear in May and lay eggs on the back of leaves. The first generation harms leaves in June-July, the second generation occurs in mid-July-August, the third generation larvae are yellow, then orange flowers are yellow, and the mature larvae are about 20 cm long.
Prevention and control measures: The key is to use 20% pyrethroid 4000-5000 times solution or 2.5% deltamethrin 3000 times solution, and 2.5% mieniao No.3 suspension 1500-2000 times solution. When clearing the garden in winter, the overwintering cocoon was removed and the larvae of 1-2 were killed artificially.
Boat moth: alias boat moth, which is the main pest that harms loquat leaves. It only eats mature leaves and begins to eat mesophyll, leaving only the epidermis and main veins. It occurs once a year 1 generation, overwinters as pupa in the soil near the trunk, differentiates in July and moves in the evening. Eggs are laid on the back of leaves, 10 eggs are arranged together and hatch in late August. 1-2 instar larvae are clustered and their heads are arranged on the back of one or several leaves, which is harmful. The injured leaves are in a gauze net, and there are many insect mouths on a tree. They feed in the morning and evening, and the leaves of the whole tree are quickly eaten up. When the larvae are frightened, they rotate, droop and feign death. From September to 10, the mature larvae overwinter in the soil, and the larvae are yellowish brown first and then purple brown.
Prevention and control measures: intertillage in winter, dig out pupa cocoons in the soil around the trunk, and concentrate on killing young larvae in the cluster in late August. If the larvae have scattered food, 5000 times solution of 20% fenvalerate or 3000 times solution of fenpropathrin can be selected.
3. Apriona germari: It mainly harms loquat branches. Larvae first nibbled along the bark and then entered the xylem, causing the branches to die. You can use 40% dichlorvos and other 50 times solution to dip cotton into the wormhole and then block the hole with yellow mud.
4, thorn moth: commonly known as hot, star anise. There are many kinds, and the main ones that harm loquat are flat moth and yellow moth. Every year, 1-2 generations, the first generation is from mid-July to mid-August, and the second generation is from early September to the end of 10. 20% pyrethrin insecticidal liquid can be used to control other pests. Other pests such as fruit eaters, aphids, spider mites, marsupials, etc. It can not only treat major pests and diseases. Pesticides such as metsulfuron-methyl, propargite and propargite can be selected for control.
Main cultivation techniques of loquat
First, build a garden.
(1) Planting density
Loquat has sparse branches, large growth, large leaves and thick branches. Planting density should be determined according to different climate, geography and soil quality, but moderate close planting is beneficial to early fruiting and high yield. In South China, because winter is warm and summer is hot, loquat has a long growth cycle and rapid crown expansion, so the density should not be too large, generally at 3m? 2m or 4m? 3m will do. However, in the Yangtze River valley or the northern edge of loquat growth, loquat growth is relatively slow, and its planting density is generally 3m? 2m or 3m? 1.5m planting can achieve the goal of early fruiting and high yield. In addition, in mountainous areas, sloping fields or areas with thin soil layers, loquat grows weakly and can be planted slightly close. The density of flat land or deep fertile soil can be appropriately thinner. In addition, the density varies with different plastic methods.
(2) Preparation before planting (or orchard soil improvement)
Because loquat has shallow root distribution, weak spreading ability and poor wind resistance, it is necessary to use pits or ditches to improve the soil before planting (the depth and width of pits or ditches are 60? 80cm) to induce the deep development of root system. Plant the seedlings in big holes or ditches, and expand them year by year after planting. However, when the funds are insufficient, the seedlings can be planted on the flat ground according to the north and south planting points, and the sloping land can be planted step by step according to the contour planting points. Strengthen the management of fertilizer and water, and expand the hole year by year to improve the soil when the funds are sufficient, without affecting the growth results (but the place with deep soil layer must be selected). It must be pointed out that orchard soil improvement is necessary to improve the quality and yield, thus improving the economic benefits.
(3) Selection of seedling quality
Loquat is a kind of fruit tree that is not tolerant to transplanting. Because of its underdeveloped root system, weak regeneration ability and low transplanting survival rate. Therefore, in order to improve the survival rate of planting and lay a foundation for early fruiting and high efficiency, strong seedlings with good roots, stout stems and a height of about 30 cm should be selected as planting seedlings. Before the seedlings leave the nursery, all the leaves should be cut off 1/3- 1/2. Before raising seedlings, fully water the nursery, and then raise seedlings. When raising seedlings in the nursery, the roots must be protected. If it is to be transported for a long distance, it must be packed with soil and straw. Where conditions permit, it is best to pack and transplant seedlings with soil or nutrition bags. During the transportation and temporary storage of seedlings, attention should be paid to ventilation, sun protection and rain protection, and it is not allowed to crowd forcibly.
(4) Time and method of colonization
The best planting time of loquat is spring and autumn. Planting in wet soil, high temperature, little rain and cold season should be avoided. The best period is March-April and September-10 every year. Nutrient bag seedlings and transplanted seedlings with soil are not limited by seasons. When planting seedlings, first shovel the soil at the planting point, then dig a small pit at the planting point and plant the seedlings in the pit to straighten out the root system and make it in a natural state. Then fill in the surface fine soil layer by layer and compact it so that the root neck is slightly 2-3 cm higher than the ground. Finally, pour enough water for root fixation, and cover the tree tray within the range of 1m with plastic film or weeds.
Second, soil management.
(1) Fertilization
Loquat is an evergreen fruit tree with lush leaves and numerous flowers, which grows all the year round. It needs more fertilizer than deciduous fruit trees. Especially potassium is needed more than nitrogen and phosphorus. Therefore, potassium fertilizer should be applied to adult fruit trees. It is necessary to determine the suitable fertilization period, type and quantity according to the growth of branches and roots and the development of fruits. The shoots of loquat have four peaks a year. Mainly include: spring shoots (February-April), summer shoots (May-June), autumn shoots (August-September) and winter shoots (1-65438+February); Spring shoots, summer shoots and autumn shoots are the main fruiting branches. Therefore, cultivating excellent summer bamboo shoots and spring shoots is the key to high yield. The root activity of loquat has obvious alternating changes with the above-ground growth, which is generally about 2 weeks ahead of the above-ground growth and has 3-4 growth peaks a year. That is, from the end of 1 to the beginning of March, it was the first peak, and this time it increased the most, and it was the second from mid-May to mid-June. The third time is from mid-August to September, and the fourth time is from June 65438+ 10 to the end of June 165438+ 10. Combined with the growth characteristics of roots and branches, close planting garden (3m? 1.5m) Fertilize 4-5 times a year in its infancy (1-3 years). Adult orchards (after 3 years) can be fertilized 3 times a year.
Fertilization in young orchards should be based on the principle of thin application and diligent application. Fertilize 4-5 times a year, mainly nitrogen and phosphorus, to promote the vegetative growth of branches and rapidly expand the crown. After the first year of planting, apply the first fertilizer to the plants at 2-3 cm after germination, and apply 5- 10g urea, 5g monoammonium phosphate (or calcium superphosphate 10g) and 3-5kg manure water (1:10) to the plants. Every 15 to 20 days. Promote spring shoots and summer shoots. Stop topdressing in July and control water to promote flower bud differentiation, and topdressing again in September -65438+ 10. In February, March, May and September of the following year, topdressing 1 time, 50g urea was applied to each plant, and 5-100 kg manure water was used in February and 65438. There is a certain yield in the third year, and it can be fertilized four times a year, once in early March, late May and late September,165438+1late October, potassium fertilizer in early March,165438+1late October, and nitrogen fertilizer in late May.
Fertilization of adult trees should be combined with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Because it has entered the high-yield period, the yield is high, and the loquat fruit contains a lot of potassium, which takes away a lot of potassium every year. So it is necessary to apply more potassium fertilizer three times a year. The first application of spring shoot fertilizer is in mid-February, when the root system is in the first growth peak, which is convenient for nutrient absorption. Fertilization can promote the development of spring shoots and increase fruits. This fertilization is more important because spring shoots can be the mother branches of fruits and the base branches of summer shoots. It accounts for about 30% of the whole year, and it is mainly available fertilizer. This time, potassium fertilizer is applied together to promote the expansion of young fruits. 30kg of urea, 30kg of calcium superphosphate 15kg, 30kg of potassium sulfate and 30kg of human and animal manure 1500kg were applied every 667m2.
The second application of summer shoot fertilizer, after fruit harvesting from mid-May to early June (before fruit harvesting of late-maturing varieties), is at the second growth peak of root system from July to August, which mainly promotes the differentiation of summer shoots and flower buds. Because summer shoots are numerous and orderly, and most of them form fruiting branches in the same year, it is the main measure to cultivate a large number of high-quality summer shoots every year. Therefore, the amount of fertilization this time is very large, accounting for about 50% of the whole year. The available nitrogen fertilizer is combined with organic fertilizer and phosphate fertilizer. Generally, 60kg urea, 40kg calcium superphosphate and 4000kg-5000kg organic fertilizer are applied every 667㎡.
The third application of autumn fertilizer (pre-flowering fertilizer) is mostly from September of 10 to early October of 10, and it is applied after heading to before flowering, accounting for about 20% of the whole year, which mainly promotes good flowering, improves fruit setting and increases cold-proof and overwintering ability. Slow release fertilizer is the main fertilizer, and urea 10kg and organic fertilizer (pig manure water) 1500kg can be applied every 667㎡.
(2) Intercropping and ploughing in orchards
Young loquat orchards can be intercropped with dwarf leguminous crops, vegetables, strawberries and green manure. But it is best to plant green manure, cut it off and cover it in a tree tray in April-August flowering period. Adult orchards can be covered with weeds or crop straws from April to September, and pressed into the orchard when fertilizing or expanding holes and improving soil in autumn, which can not only enrich the soil, but also keep the soil moist in summer, reduce the ground temperature and be beneficial to plant growth and fruiting. Covering trees with weeds in winter is beneficial to loquat overwintering. In winter, the whole garden should be ploughed once a year, and the appropriate depth is 10-20cm. In autumn, orchards planted in ditches or big holes should be expanded outward along the ditches or big holes, and weeds, crop straws, phosphate fertilizer, etc. In the garden, it should be deeply turned and compacted, and the extension depth should be 50-80cm. Moreover, the expansion of the whole garden in 3-5 years is conducive to guiding the root system to grow downwards and enhancing the fertilizer absorption capacity. Weeds in orchards can be weeded 2-3 times a year according to the situation.
(3) Drainage and irrigation
Loquat is not resistant to water stains, and water accumulation in rainy season is easy to cause rotten roots, affect growth and even die trees. Therefore, it is necessary to build a garden on the flat ground or clay with poor drainage, and line a drain with a depth of 40-50cm every 2-4 to facilitate drainage in rainy season. Especially in the physiological differentiation period of flower buds from July to August, more attention should be paid to drainage and proper drought, which is beneficial to flower bud differentiation. If there is too much rainfall during the fruit ripening period, it is easy to cause poor coloring or fruit cracking, so pay attention to drainage during this period. The spring drought in March-April coincides with the development period of young fruits, so it is necessary to irrigate them properly. September-10 Summer and autumn drought has a serious impact on the growth and development of flower heads. If the weather is dry, irrigation is also needed to fight drought.