Potted ornamental persimmon trees should have short crown, compact structure and evenly distributed branches. For varieties with strong dryness, direct drying or sparse layering can be used, but the main branches and layers should be small; The top advantage is weak, with many branches, and the crown can form a vertical branch or an inclined trunk. Generally, there are 3 ~ 5 backbone branches on each tree, and the fruiting branch group is planted directly on the tree, and the twig group is better. The pruning of persimmon trees adopts the method of combining thinning with cutting, mainly rejuvenating, cultivating fruiting mother branches with terminal buds, improving fruiting ability and reducing nutrient consumption. For the first fruiting trees, it is necessary to pay attention to the short cutting of the main branches, promote them to sprout branches under the incision, reduce the formation of bare bands behind them, and form compact fruiting branches by culture.

Pay attention to ventilation and light transmission after entering the fruit, cultivate strong fruiting branches in the inner room to prevent the fruiting parts from moving out, pay attention to the combination of thinning and shrinking, cultivate fruiting branches, prevent internal baldness, and maintain a strong tree. When pruning, the combination of thinning and shrinkage is adopted, and the exposed zone is longer. The resulting part is moved to the front of the backbone branch and retracted, so as to promote the healthy growth of new branches behind, grow branches, sparse branches and pest branches at intervals, remove the weak and retain the strong, reduce nutrient consumption, and promote the formation of short new branches. Contraction should be moderate, avoid being too heavy, too urgent or too light, and avoid taking risks. For the branches that grow weakly after fruiting and cannot be the mother branches of fruiting in that year, the branches that bear fruit in successive years should be appropriately cut short and reserved as reserve branches, so that the branches that bear fruit and are cut short in the next year can grow healthily, and only those with obvious lateral buds at the lower part can send out new branches, otherwise the effect is not ideal. Persimmon trees should keep backup branches. Generally, redundant fruiting branches are cut into short sections of 1/3 as spare branches. Before the new shoots germinate to lignification, the branches of the main branches, near the slit of the big branches and the curved and arched upper parts are easy to germinate long branches. Except for 1 ~ 2 buds, the rest can be smoothed at the initial stage of germination, and the remaining branches should be pulled out in time to prevent long branches. When the new shoots are vigorous and valuable, and grow to 20 ~ 30 cm, the core will be removed before and after the flowering period from late April to early May, so that the secondary branches will form flower buds. If there are many flowers on the fruiting branches, some fruiting mother branches can be cut short from the base after the new branches appear in April-May, forcing secondary buds to germinate and develop branches to adjust the tree potential. For strong and prosperous young trees, half-ring stripping is staggered on the big branches or trunk at flowering stage, and the width of stripping is less than 0.5 cm, which promotes moderate growth and improves fruit setting rate. Stripping should be wide early and narrow late.