1. Morphological characteristics
Camellia is an evergreen broad-leaved shrub or small tree. Simple leaves alternate, leathery, oblong or ovate-lanceolate, with serrate leaf margins, and some varieties have whole leaves. Flower buds are formed in autumn, which are oval, covered with scales and covered with fine hairs. Flowers are solitary or opposite to each other at the top of branches or axils, with red, white, reddish or variegated flowers and many stamens. Seeds are spherical or angular. The flowering period is from June 10 to April of the following year.
Camellia is one of the top ten famous flowers in China. Its flowers are colorful, gorgeous but not demon, beautiful but not charming. The cold winter is freezing, and camellia is full of vitality in the snow.
Camellia pictures
2. Variety type
Camellia can be divided into different varieties according to the number of sepals, petals, planting methods and stamen morphological characteristics.
(1) single valve with concave end.
Sepals several, broadly round, petals 5 ~ 7, spreading, broadly round.
Group a: single valve type. Petals 5 ~ 7, stamens cylindric or fasciculate.
Group b: hairstyle. Anthers enlarged, slightly petaloid and compact.
Group c: small size. Sepals connected together, trumpet-shaped uneven extension. Among them, there are precious varieties such as big flower golden heart, bright leaf golden heart, fishtail tea and shining golden light.
Group d: plum heart type. 6 ~ 7 petals, spreading, wide and round, fleshy, short filaments, connected with the base and large anthers.
(2) Double petals
Sepals several, round or broadly round, petals flat obovate. More than 10, stamens are clustered or stamens and petals are mixed.
Group a: semi-double valve type. 10 ~ 20 petals have staminodes.
Group b: peony type. Petals have more than 10, wavy and flat, like peony.
Group C: water lily type. Petals pointed like water lilies.
Group D: Hugging type. Petals 10 ~ 20, bent inward.
Sepals are several, scales are incomplete, and stamens are many.
(3) Complete double petalization.
3. Growth and development
Camellia likes warm environment, and the optimum temperature for its growth is 18 ~ 25℃. There are some differences in tolerance to low temperature among varieties. Single-petalled varieties close to the original species have stronger cold resistance than ordinary varieties and can tolerate the low temperature of-10℃. Under different growth conditions, the plants with strong growth potential of the same variety are more hardy than those with weak growth potential. When the temperature rises above 10℃, it begins to germinate, stops growing above 30℃, and sunburn will occur above 35℃.
High temperature is a necessary condition for flower bud formation. If the temperature is controlled at 27℃ day and night, a large number of flower buds can be produced. If the temperature drops to 18℃ at night, fewer flower buds will be produced; If the temperature continues to drop below 16℃, the flower bud will stop differentiating.
Temperature also has an effect on the blooming of flower buds. The optimum flowering temperature is 65438 08℃ during the day and 65438 05.5℃ at night. When the temperature is too high, the flower buds are easy to fall off, the flower pattern is small, the color becomes pale, and when the temperature is too low, the flowering will be delayed.
Camellia likes a semi-shady living environment and avoids the scorching sun. Generally, safflower camellia is more resistant to direct sunlight than white, light or variegated camellia. When the sunshine is soft in winter, more sunshine is needed to avoid weak growth, small flowers and less flowering due to insufficient sunshine.
The length of sunshine affects the generation of leaves, the growth of stems and branches, and the differentiation and development of flower buds. Most varieties are dormant under the condition of less than 8 hours of light every day; However, flower bud differentiation needs 13.5 ~ 16.0 hours of sunshine every day. If the sunshine time is less than 9 hours, flower buds are rarely formed. However, flower bud opening requires short sunshine, that is, 8 hours of light every day is beneficial to flower bud opening. In a word, high temperature (27℃) and long sunshine (13.5 ~ 16.0 hours) can promote flower bud differentiation before flower bud formation. After flower bud formation, it is most favorable to maintain the daily temperature 18℃ and the night temperature 15.5℃ and give short sunshine.
Camellia likes high air humidity, which requires sufficient soil moisture and good drainage.
Soil with pH value of 4.5 ~ 6.5 can grow, but the optimum pH value is 5.5 ~ 6.5. Alkaline and cohesive soil is not suitable for the growth of camellia.
Camellia usually grows twice a year/kloc-0. The first time, it usually begins to sprout in the middle and late March, buds in early April, stops growing in the middle and late May, and gradually lignifies, which is called spring shoots. New shoots began to differentiate and form during the maturity of new branches, and gradually developed and expanded. Generally, branches with flower buds will not continue to grow for the second time that year. Branches that do not form flower buds generally grow for the second time in June-July or September-65438+1October, and grow summer shoots or autumn shoots. The growth of spring shoots is large, but the growth of summer shoots and autumn shoots is small, which is easily affected by pests and diseases.
The flowering time varies with varieties, from the middle of 10 to the middle of April the following year. The flowering period of different varieties is also different, most varieties are 1 ~ 2 months, and a few varieties can last as long as 4 months. The flowering period of a single flower is usually 7-20 days, with low temperature and long flowering time and high temperature and short flowering time.
4. Breeding method
There are many propagation methods of camellia, which can be propagated by sowing, cutting, layering and grafting.
(1) sowing method
This method is mainly used for single-petal varieties, which can produce variety characteristics variation and be used for grafting and cultivating rootstocks. Its disadvantage is that it takes 5 ~ 6 years for the cultivated seedlings to grow into flowering plants, so it is difficult to maintain the original characteristics of varieties, and many excellent varieties cannot be applied because they cannot bear fruit.
1) seed collection and storage
When the fruit is ripe and slightly cracked in autumn, it should be harvested immediately, dried in the shade in a ventilated place indoors, and the seeds should be taken out after the fruit naturally cracks. Sow immediately after harvest, or store in wet sand layer and sow in the following spring.
2) Seed pretreatment: The seed coat of camellia is hard, and pretreatment before sowing can promote the rapid germination of seeds. Pretreatment measures include: cutting the seed coat with a knife; Soak the seeds in water at 40-50℃ for 30 minutes, then soak them in clean water at 20-25℃ for 5-6 days, and take out the seeds that have sunk into the water for sowing; Use 100 mg/l of Gibberella.
Soak the seeds in vegetable solution for 24 hours.
3) sowing
Pot planting or plastic bag sealing can be used to accelerate germination. Generally, there are sand, peat, perlite and vermiculite. Or a mixture thereof, is use as a substrate for flowerpot sowing. Put the substrate into a flowerpot with a drain hole at the bottom, with the thickness of 10 ~ 15cm, and put the seeds into the hole about 5cm deep, with the spacing of (15 ~ 20) cm× (12). When sowing in spring, cover 3-4 cm thick substrate and 2-3 cm thick substrate. After sowing, water with a fine-hole watering can. Closed germination is suitable for newly harvested seeds. In this method, water moss can be selected as the substrate, boiled in water for 10 minute for disinfection, then the remaining water is squeezed out, put into a plastic bag, then put in seeds and tie the bag mouth tightly.
Keep 18 ~ 25℃ after sowing. In order to keep moist, the flowerpot can be covered with plastic film, and uncovered 1 time every day for ventilation. You can also cover the surface of the substrate with 2 ~ 3 cm thick straw, and pull it out in time when it emerges. When the substrate is dry, water it with a fine-hole watering can.
If the seeds are moldy, they can be disinfected with 0. 1% potassium permanganate solution. Pot planter/kloc-began to germinate in 0/5 ~ 30 days. When the seedlings grow 3 ~ 4 leaves, they should be transplanted into pots. Sealed germinated seeds can germinate after 15 ~ 20 days, and can be planted in pots when the roots are 3 ~ 5 cm long.
When planting, the taproot should be shortened by 2 ~ 3 cm to promote the lateral root.
(2) Cutting method
Camellia oleifera seedlings propagated by cutting method can maintain the variety characteristics, and it usually takes 3 ~ 4 years to bloom. Different cutting methods choose different cutting time and position, but no matter what kind of cutting, it should be cut from the branches with vigorous external growth, full leaf buds and no pests and diseases.
1) Leaf cuttings In July, leaves with stalks were taken from the tender branches of that year as cuttings.
2) Softwood cutting
Cut off the semi-lignified branches in May-June or September-65438+1October. It is 4 ~ 15 cm long, with 2 ~ 4 leaves at the top and heel at the base when it is cut.
Cut your mouth flat.
3) Cutting with big branches
From late June to early July, perennial branches with 3-4 branches were selected as cuttings. First, peel off the stem skin with a width of 2 cm at the lower end of the cuttings, and reach the xylem, and smear the wound with naphthylacetic acid or indolebutyric acid of 0/000 mg per liter/kloc. After the callus of the wound is swollen, it is cut and cut.
4) Single bud cutting
In July, stem segments with a length of 1 cm were cut from the shoots of that year as cuttings, and each stem segment had a bud and a leaf.
Cutting should be completed within 24 hours after cutting. Before cutting, the cuttings are wrapped in a wet towel and put in a sealed plastic bag. Treating the base of cuttings with a certain concentration of naphthylacetic acid and indolebutyric acid is beneficial to rooting. When cutting, the chaff ash and river sand are mixed into a matrix according to the ratio of 1: 1, and the matrix is placed in a flowerpot, wooden box or other container with the thickness of 10 ~ 15 cm, and the cuttings are inserted into the matrix, and the density is appropriate for the leaves to meet but not overlap. Cutting depth varies with cutting type: leaf cutting is inserted into petiole 0.5 ~ 1cm, soft branch cutting is 1/3 ~ 1/2 of cutting length, big branch cutting is about 10cm deep, and single bud cutting is buried under single bud. After insertion, compact the matrix and water it.
After insertion, place the container in a semi-shady place, and spray water with a fine-hole watering can for 4-6 times a day for the first 15 days, and then the spraying times will gradually decrease, but pay attention to keeping the substrate moist. The temperature is controlled at 20 ~ 25℃. When the roots grow to 2.5 ~ 3.5 cm long, they can be transplanted into pots.
(3) Layering method
Stratification can be carried out all year round, but April-June is suitable. 2 ~ 3-year-old branches with vigorous growth were selected from robust mother plants, and girdled about 30 cm from top to bottom to xylem 1 ~ 2 cm. Then apply indolebutyric acid solution of 0/000 mg per liter/kloc to the girdling wound, dry it by itself, wrap the girdling part with water moss, wrap it into a ball, tie it tightly with plastic strips, and wrap it with aluminum foil. Conventional management at 20 ~ 30℃ can generally take root within 6 months.
Cut off the mother plant.
Another layering method is carried out in April, in which the tender branches of that year are selected, the buried part or annular peeling is cut off with a knife, then the incision is pressed into the soil, the soil is often kept moist, and the mother plant is cut off after rooting.
(4) Grafting method
Camellia sinensis, Camellia oleifera and Prunus mume with single petals can be used as rootstocks, and there are two grafting methods: branch grafting and bud grafting. Among them, branch grafting can be divided into butt grafting and split grafting, and bud grafting is the main method. The grafting of bare root seedlings and bud seedlings were introduced.
1) bare root seedling docking
Generally, multi-branch seedlings over 3 years old are used as rootstocks, and12-year-old seedlings over 10 cm are used as scions. First, clean the root of the scion with clean water, and then use a sharp knife to cut the annual strong branches and smooth middle of the scion into long sections of 1.5 ~ 2 cm vertically at appropriate positions on the rootstock. The depth should be cut at 1/4 of its diameter, and the incision should be smooth and similar in width. Quickly anastomose the incision, aim at the side of the cambium, and tie it tightly with plastic strips. Then cover the root of the scion with a small earthenware pot with a diameter of 10 cm, add culture soil into the small earthenware pot, and pour.
2) Grafting seedlings
Generally, two months before grafting, seedlings are urged and rootstocks are cultivated. When the germ grows to 6 cm long and has not been lignified, it can be used for grafting.
The scion uses semi-lignified or lignified spring shoots located in the middle and upper part of the tree, with full buds and no pests and diseases. When grafting, the bud anvil is washed first, cut off from the upper part of the seed by 2 cm, and then cut longitudinally from the fracture center with a thin blade. The incision is about 65438 0 cm long. Then cut the bud with leaves from the cuttings, the lower end of the bud is 1.5cm, the upper end is 0.5cm, and the lower part is cut into a wedge-shaped surface, which is about 1cm long. The leaves should also be cut off 1/2. Immediately after cutting, insert the rootstocks to align their cambium, and tie them tightly with toothpaste skin 2.5 cm long and 0.7 cm wide, so that the scion and rootstocks are closely combined.
5. Cultivation and maintenance
(1) Selection of varieties and flowerpots It is advisable to choose varieties with small leaf shape and slow growth for potted camellia. It is best to choose a vegetarian flowerpot because of its breathability and hygroscopicity.
All of them are good, which is beneficial to the development of root system. The size of the flowerpot should be in proportion to the size of the plant. Generally, a pot with plant height 15 ~ 20 cm and diameter of 20 cm is enough; Plant height is 30 ~ 45cm, and pots with 25cm caliber are used; The plant height is 80 ~ 120 cm, and a pot with a diameter of 36 cm is used; Plant height 140 ~ 160 cm, pot diameter 55 cm.
(2) Preparation of culture soil
It can be made of compost, sand and pine bark according to the ratio of 1: 1: 1. When using homemade culture soil, it is also good to use some leftovers from life to prepare culture soil to raise camellia. The specific method is as follows: when eating broad beans in spring, leave a second shell and dry it for later use; Eat watermelon in summer and leave the melon seeds to dry for later use.
(Pumpkin seeds and winter melon seeds are also applicable); When taking traditional Chinese medicine, the residue is left to dry for later use; Collect some pine needles in the wild for later use; Collect some sawdust, cottonseed hulls, etc. For later use. Mix the above materials according to the proportion of watermelon seeds 20%, pine needles 30% and the rest 50% to form a "household mixed meal".
Then take the fertile topsoil under the forest (take the soil above the ground 1 cm) and break it, and mix it well with the "household mixture", in which the "household mixture" accounts for 70% and the topsoil accounts for 30%. Then pour in some fermented thin fat water, stir it evenly, store it in a jar or plastic bag, and turn it up and down 1 time every 3 ~ 4 weeks to make the fermentation even. It can be used in spring, summer and autumn. If it can be stored for more than 3 ~ 5 years, the various components in the "household mixture" will change shape and be mixed into fluffy culture soil, and the fertility will be mild and lasting, which is the best. If the culture soil is too fine, a proper amount of screened honeycomb coal with the size of red beans can be added.
(3) Changing pots
Camellia roots grow slowly, small and hairy. Generally, change pots every two years 1 time, and change pots after flowers wither, and new buds germinate in March-April every year. Because the new shoots germinated after flowering have been lignified, no flower buds will be formed in the second year, which will neither affect the growth of new shoots nor affect the formation and development of flower buds in the second year. When changing pots, first cover the leaking holes at the bottom of the pot with broken tiles alternately, and cover the bottom of the pot with a layer of coarse sand, and the thickness should be covered with tiles. Then plant plants in the pot, and the root is 2 ~ 3 lower than the edge of the pot.
Cm, put the culture soil into a pot until it slightly covers the rhizome, press it and pour it with a watering can.
Permeable.
4. Water
1) Water frequently during sowing, grafting and layering propagation to keep the soil moist; When cutting propagation, not only the soil should be kept moist, but also the leaves should be kept moist frequently.
2) vigorous vegetative growth period
Water more properly, keep the soil moist, and often spray water on the leaves.
3) Germination stage
It is necessary to properly control the moisture to make the soil dry, and then water it when it is near dry, so as to inhibit the growth of nutrients and make the nutrient supply flower buds differentiate. After flower bud differentiation, normal watering is resumed until it is dry and wet.
4) Flowering period
If the water consumption is large, water it in time, and keep the soil moist frequently to avoid the soil being completely dry, otherwise the buds will not open, or the flowers will be small and dim.
5) Winter dormancy period
When the water demand decreases, the soil should be dried, and then watered when it is nearly dry or even completely dry. But for some plants that bloom in winter, it is necessary to water them more properly.
Camellia likes slightly acidic water. If camellia is watered with alkaline or slightly alkaline water in northern China, even if it is originally acidic soil, it will gradually become alkaline, which will affect the normal growth of camellia. In order to meet the requirements of camellia for water quality, the water quality can be acidified. The ratio of acidified water is clear water 100 (stored in rainwater or river water or tap water for 2 days) and ferrous sulfate (black alum) 1, and the ratio is 100: 1.
(5) Fertilizing
Organic fertilizer should be given priority to, supplemented by chemical fertilizer. The base fertilizer is usually cake fertilizer, bone meal, animal manure or compost, which should be fully decomposed, dried and crushed before use. In the rapid growth period of new shoots, topdressing nitrogen fertilizer and supplementing some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer appropriately; During flower bud differentiation in June, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer were applied instead; July to August, days
When the air is hot, the growth of camellia basically stops, which is not suitable for fertilization; From September to165438+1October, apply low nitrogen and high phosphorus potassium fertilizer, increase boron fertilizer, promote bud and protect flowers; From February 65438 to early March of the following year, the weather was cold, and camellia was in a semi-dormant or dormant state, so it was only necessary to bury 1 time slow-release organic fertilizer to facilitate germination and flowering in the following year.
(6) Temperature and humidity management of Camellia oleifera cultivation in buildings
Camellia requires air relative humidity of 60% ~ 80%, and below 50%, it will lead to poor growth. It is cold in winter in northern China, and the indoor air is dry because of heating. Therefore, the management of temperature and humidity is particularly important when raising camellia in buildings. A better way is to add glass windows to the balcony, or build a simple plastic shed on one side of the balcony, build a 30 cm high groove with bricks at the bottom of the balcony, spread sawdust inside, and keep warm and moist with double transparent plastic films at the upper part and facing the sun.
Temperature difference adjustment should be paid attention to in camellia oleifera cultivation. In winter, if the temperature difference is kept above 10℃, Camellia will accumulate more nutrients and consume less, and will blossom well in the next year (it should not be lower than 5℃ at night). If the temperature difference between day and night in winter is small, especially in a room with heating, the room temperature is always around 15℃, and the buds will easily drop in the second year, and the growth will be bad. In order to create a large temperature difference for camellia, it is best to raise camellia in a closed balcony. At night, the doors and windows between the living room and the balcony can be closed and opened during the day.
(7) plastic trimming
Reasonable pruning should be based on the tree characteristics of each camellia variety, let nature take its course, or erect or droop branches or open or cluster, reflecting its natural beauty. At the same time of pruning, old leaves can be selectively removed. Leaves should be picked gradually with the development of new leaves. Don't take them all at once.
Camellia usually has too many buds. If allowed to develop naturally, it will not only affect the flowering quality, but also weaken the tree. When you can distinguish flower buds from leaf buds, leave more flower buds, which can ensure the robustness of trees and the gorgeous flowers. Generally, more than 25% of the buds become thinner. When thinning buds, first of all, the buds inside the crown and on the weak branches should be removed, and some deformed buds should also be thinned.