Planting conditions of Sakyamuni fruit
1. Climate: Sakyamuni is a tropical and subtropical plant and likes warm and humid climate. The climatic conditions with annual temperature of 2 1 ~ 23℃, annual rainfall of 1200 ~ 1800 ml and air humidity of 70 ~ 95% are most suitable for its growth. Generally speaking, there is no frost in winter and abundant rainfall.
2. Soil: Sakyamuni is a shallow-rooted plant, and its roots are mostly distributed in the soil layer within 35 cm. Moreover, the new roots lignify late and need oxygen to avoid water accumulation. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a place sheltered from the wind in the south, and the windbreak forest must be built in a windy place, otherwise it will be vulnerable to wind damage and lead to root rot. Sandy soil or sandy loam with fertile soil, good ventilation and good drainage is the most suitable soil, and the most suitable soil pH value is 5.5 ~ 6.5. Overacid soil should be improved with lime. Although cohesive soil and neutral soil can also grow, the effect is not as good as sandy soil or sandy loam.
Seedling raising techniques of Sakyamuni fruit
1, seed seedling: Sakyamuni seeds should be aired before sowing to promote germination, and sandy loam with good sun drainage should be selected for nursery, with gentle slope and flat land as the best. Before sowing in the nursery, the ground should be thoroughly ploughed 1 ~ 2 months, then decomposed organic fertilizer and a small amount of lime should be used as base fertilizer, broken and mixed evenly, and then furrowed and ridged. Drill sowing can be done, with 7 ~ 8 kilograms of seeds per mu. Cover with river sand or fine soil, slightly compact, drench with grass or plastic film, keep the seedbed moist, and be afraid of water accumulation, and also pay attention to prevent excessive water to avoid root rot. After germination, cover with grass or plastic film to avoid bending the seedlings.
2. Grafting seedling: The grafting method of Sakyamuni mostly depends on the season, and the phloem is not easy to fall off in spring, so the grafting method is generally adopted, and the budding method is generally adopted in summer and autumn. When Sakyamuni bud grafting, it is generally required to untie it after 20 ~ 30 days, while the branch grafting usually needs to pick the bud first and then untie it. For the plants survived by bud grafting, the rootstock can be cut off about 5 cm above the bud grafting position after unbinding 15 days. After rootstock cutting, a large number of sprouting tillers will be pulled out at the base, which should be pulled out in time to avoid competing with scions for nutrients and affecting bud germination. At the same time, the nursery should be kept clean and free of weeds, and the supply of fertilizer and water should be sufficient. When the grafted seedlings grow to 50 cm high and the stem diameter is about 65438±0.0cm, they can be planted in the nursery.
Planting techniques of Sakyamuni fruit
1. planting time: the planting time of Sakyamuni fruit is from February to April every year, and the frost-free period in winter can be advanced to 10 ~ 65438+ February of the previous year. Greenhouse cultivation in Beijing suburbs should be planted in the middle and late April (regardless of whether the greenhouse is covered with film or not). At this time, the temperature rises, which is beneficial to the slow seedling and growth of plants. Planting specifications should be determined according to the specific conditions of greenhouses.
2. Seedling treatment: Before planting Sakyamuni, the seedlings should be treated. Firstly, the seedlings were disinfected, sprayed with 3-5 Baume lime-sulfur mixture, and the seedlings were graded and pruned. According to the size of seedlings and the quality of roots, choose strong seedlings or plant them alone. Seedlings that lose water in the field and during storage must be soaked in water for 3-5 hours before planting.
3. Planting density: The plant spacing varies with varieties, generally 3x4m or 4x5m is appropriate, and the densest plant can be increased to 2x3m. Before planting, it is necessary to dig a planting hole in advance. The soil with the size of 0.8x0.8x0.8 is mixed with mature organic fertilizer, and the soil inside is placed on it. Then plant the seedlings, cover them, thoroughly water them once, and cover them with a layer of raw soil to prevent the water from evaporating. If it is planted in a place with flat terrain and abundant rainfall, it is not suitable to dig a big pit for planting, and high ridges can be planted to prevent the plants from dying due to accumulated water in the pit.
Fertilizer and water management of Sakyamuni fruit
1, young tree fertilization: Generally 1 ~ 2 young trees need to apply 5 kg of organic fertilizer, 0.45 kg of urea, 0.35 kg of calcium superphosphate and 0. 1 kg of potassium sulfate. Except the organic fertilizer, other fertilizers should be applied after the first, second and third crops of new buds mature and before the pruning in winter.
2. Fertilization for adult trees: Sakyamuni's fruiting trees need a large amount of fertilizer, and the amount should be determined according to the age, vigor and fruiting situation of the trees. Generally, 3-4-year-old trees need to apply organic fertilizer 10 ~ 15 kg, 2 kg of calcium superphosphate, 0.5 kg of potassium sulfate and 0.2 kg of urea 1.2 kg every year, in which the organic fertilizer should be applied at one time before and after winter shearing.
3. Irrigation management: Sakyamuni needs water most in the germination period, young fruit expansion period, rapid fruit expansion period, post-harvest recovery period and dormancy period, and should be irrigated in a timely and appropriate manner according to specific conditions to ensure the fruit setting rate, large fruit rate and excellent fruit rate, as well as the recovery of root system and tree potential. Hole irrigation and furrow irrigation are the best irrigation methods. Lack of water will lead to poor plant growth, irregular germination, a large number of young fruits falling off, poor fruit development, and a substantial increase in fruit cracking rate. However, Sakyamuni is also most afraid of stagnant water. Even short-term water accumulation can lead to the same result as water shortage, and can lead to root rot and plant death. Therefore, it is necessary to do a good job of drainage in time.
Shaping and pruning of Sakyamuni fruit
1. Young tree stage: When the seedlings grow to 40 ~ 60 cm after planting, the top must be cut off and fixed, and 3-4 pairs of leaves should be cut off in the middle and upper part of the trunk to promote the germination and formation of 3-4 main branches. When the main branch grows to 60 cm, cut off the top again, and when the leaves are mature, cut off two pairs of leaves in the middle and tail to promote secondary branching. When the secondary branches grow to about 40 cm, the third and fourth branches are promoted and cultivated in the same way. The included angle between the main branch and each branch and the ground is kept between 45 and 70. Only one branch tip is left in each leaf axil, and the rest is cut off. After 2 ~ 3 years, the cup-shaped crown with high yield can basically be formed.
2. Fruit trees: The crown of fruit trees has generally been formed, and the main task is to maintain vigorous tree vigor and high-yield crown through pruning. But different kinds have different pruning requirements. Soft branches droop, and the spirit of the tree is not strong in honest and frank. Excessive pruning will lead to the decline of trees and affect the yield. Therefore, only slight pruning can be carried out, except for the residual branches, twigs and pests and diseases after fruit cutting, the upright back branches are mainly cut to make the plants dwarf as much as possible. Promoting flowering and adjusting the production period are mainly achieved by manual forced defoliation. However, the varieties with vigorous growth must be pruned intensively to obtain high yield.
Regulation of Sakyamuni's Fruit Growth Period
1. Fruits in season: The pruning intensity of fruits in season is relatively high. Not only the back branches, upright branches, weak branches and pest branches should be pruned, but also the growing branches and fruiting branches (including the third and fourth branches) should be pruned with high intensity, and each branch should be kept only 30 cm in length to promote flower bud germination and new shoot growth. At this time, the growth period of open flower bud fruit is about 120 ~ 150 days, and it matures from July to August. The new shoots grown at this time are also the basis for cultivating fruit branches in winter.
2. Autumn fruits: Autumn fruits mainly come from alpine orchards or forest orchards, and are harvested once a year according to the best growing season of Sakyamuni. Intensive pruning should be carried out in May, not only for back branches, upright branches, slender branches, pests and diseases, but also for growth branches and fruiting branches (including the third and fourth branches), each branch should be kept only 30 cm long, and the whole plant should be forced to shed leaves, so that it can germinate, bloom and bear fruit from late May to early June. The fruit development period of this season is 135 ~ 6544.
3. Out-of-season fruits: Pruning in summer from June to September every year can not only improve the ventilation and lighting conditions of trees by deleting over-dense branches, over-thin branches, over-flourishing branches, diseased branches and insufficient branches, but also adjust the production cycle of many batches by pruning and treating well-developed side branches, so that fruit trees can achieve the goal of more harvest in one year.
Management of Sakyamuni's Fruits and Flowers
1. Artificial pollination: Sakyamuni fruit has the characteristics of early pistil maturity and short stigma tolerance time. The flower bud began to relax for about 48 hours, and it was completely open before anther dehiscence. At the same time, the filaments elongate rapidly, and then the anthers crack, releasing pollen. Stigma receptivity is not only completely lost at anther dehiscence, but also partially lost in a short time before anther dehiscence, so artificial pollination should be carried out at anther dehiscence. The method of artificial pollination is to dip the pollen of flowers with fully open anthers and naturally split anthers with a brush and give it to a semi-open style. Dip in pollen once and 2 ~ 3 flowers will grow.
2. Flowers-thinning fruits and vegetables: Usually, all the first flowers that bloom in early May are deleted, and the flowers that bloom from mid-May to June are kept. After the young fruit is formed, it is necessary to remove deformed fruit, diseased fruit and too many small fruits in time. Generally, one fruit is left on each fruiting branch. After retaining the fruits of the first season, in the first half of July after the physiological fruit drop, the fruits on some strong branches should be thinned to ensure that enough mother branches spit out the summer shoots.
3. Fruit bagging: Sakyamuni's fruit has a long growth period and often experiences various temperature changes and insect and bird harassment. If it is not bagged, it will affect the commercialization of fruit. The bagging time is suitable when the thumb of the fruit is big, and bactericidal pesticides should be sprayed before bagging.
4. Timely harvesting: the fruit of Sakyamuni will bear fruit 3-4 years after the seedlings are planted, and it will reach the peak of fruit bearing after the sixth year, and the fruit will mature from late August to September. When the fruit is immature and cracked, the color of the fruit turns slightly bluish yellow, and the peel is slightly white, it can be cut off by the handle and harvested. After harvesting, it needs to be ripened for 3-5 days before eating. Uncooked fruit has no commercial value because it can't ripen normally.
Prevention and control of fruit diseases and insect pests in Sakyamuni
1. Anthracnose: Anthracnose mainly causes fallen leaves, black fruits and rotten fruits. Spraying 1 ~ 2 times during germination and fruit setting, using 500 times of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 800 ~ 1000 times of 70% thiophanate wettable powder.
2. Root rot: Root rot is often caused by water accumulation, root injury, high temperature and humidity, application of immature garbage and miscellaneous fertilizers. The application of organic fertilizers such as fermented soybean skin and livestock manure can help to inhibit the occurrence of diseases, so as to prevent the diseases from happening first. The diseased plants are dug up and burned in time, and lime and sulfur powder are spread on the plot according to the ratio of 10: 1, and each plant is applied with 0.5 kg.
3. Stem rot: Stem rot mainly causes dead seedlings, dead shoots and rotten fruits. Spraying 1 ~ 2 times after new shoots germinate or during fruit setting can be combined with anthracnose control, and 500 times solution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 0.5% bordeaux solution can be used.
4. Red spider: 2000 times of 1.8% avermectin EC or 3000-5000 times of 15% pyridaben1500-2000 times of 24% spirodiclofen suspension can be used to control red spider.
5. Scale insects: In spring and autumn, control with 2.5% deltamethrin 3000 times solution in the new shoot stage and young fruit stage.
6. Wilting disease: Wilting disease is a bacterial disease. The roots and xylem tissues of the damaged plants near the ground are discolored, with sparse branches, small leaves and poor growth. It usually occurs in late spring and suddenly dies in summer. Spraying 1 ~ 2 fungicide at the new shoot stage can effectively inhibit the occurrence of diseases.