In terms of fabrics, if you attend cocktail parties, talks and other formal social occasions, you should wear an orthodox suit. The fabric requirements of orthodox suits are more particular, which can be tweed, soft wool or worsted wool, polyester, cotton and linen. This breaks the formality and dullness of traditional suits, and softness is its biggest feature. After processing and polishing, velvet, wool, flax and silk are all good choices. The fabric with good drape makes men comfortable, chic and stylish.
In the choice of color, the suit far exceeds the previous single color system. Light gray, beige, rust, dark green, cobalt blue, light coffee and lavender are all effective colors. As long as it is properly matched, it can make men look energetic and full of vitality. Of course, there are all kinds of plaid colors, English squares, broken patterns and regular or irregular arrangements, which make men look warm and elegant.
Of course, the matching of pants is also very important. More relaxed and elegant than before. On the fabric, it feels soft and wrinkle-free, and the drape and breathability are better. In terms of color, popular pants tend to be elegant. In the past, the dark color of trousers was boring in any season, and it also felt depressing when matched. Don't forget a pair of cotton or silk stockings with good breathability and sweat absorption, and a pair of soft leather shoes with clean fit and bright style. It is difficult to find standards for clothing. The most uncontroversial classification is divided into three categories according to gender: men's wear, women's wear, children's wear and neutral clothing. In the clothing industry, people in the industry usually don't classify it like this, but it is divided into knitting and weaving.
Knitted clothing is faster and less difficult to produce than woven clothing, so it will be cheaper. Although China is rich in human resources, human resources account for an important proportion in the cost of clothing production.
Usually, if workers are skilled, a worker and a machine can produce hundreds of knitted garments a day, but it also depends on the complexity of the garments.
In addition, another important factor that determines the cost of clothing is accessories, which will increase the cost. More importantly, it needs to pay labor costs. Accessories are generally assembled by hand, which not only takes a long time to produce, but also increases the number of unqualified products.
There are many kinds of clothes. Because of the different basic forms, varieties, uses, production methods and raw materials of clothing, all kinds of clothing also show different styles and characteristics, which are varied and colorful. Different classification methods lead to different names for clothes. There are roughly the following classification methods.
First, according to the basic form of clothing classification
According to the basic form and modeling structure of clothing, it can be divided into three types: body type, style type and mixed type.
1. body type
Body-shaping clothes are clothes that conform to the shape and structure of the human body and originated in cold areas. The general wearing form of this kind of clothing is divided into upper and lower parts. The jacket adapts to the shape of human chest, neck and arms; The bottoms conform to the shape of the waist, buttocks and legs, mainly pants and skirts. Cutting and sewing are more rigorous, paying attention to the outline modeling and main effect of clothing. Suits, for example, are mostly body shapes.
2. Style type
Style clothing is a kind of clothing style that covers the human body in the form of loose stretching, which originated in tropical areas. This kind of clothing is free and casual, and the cutting and sewing process is mainly based on simple plane effect.
3. Mixed type
Mixed structure clothing is a comprehensive mixed form of cold zone body type and tropical style type, which has the characteristics of both. The cutting adopts a simple plane structure, but takes the human body as the center, and its basic shape is rectangular, such as China cheongsam and Japanese kimono.
Two, according to the clothing combination, use, fabric, production process classification.
1. Classification by wearing combination
There are roughly the following categories:
1. jumpsuits, dresses and other whole clothes connected with tops and bottoms have a strong sense of overall modeling.
There are two-piece, three-piece and four-piece suits, in which the top and bottom of the suit are separated.
3. The coat is worn on the outermost layer of clothes, including coats, windbreakers, raincoats, cloaks, etc.
4. The vest is a sleeveless garment worn to the upper body, usually as short as the waist and buttocks, which is a slightly close-fitting shape.
5. The dresses used to cover the lower body include one-step skirts, A-line skirts, truncated skirts and culottes.
6. Pants are divided into legs from the waist down to the hips, which is convenient for wearing and moving. There are trousers, shorts and trousers.
2. Classification by purpose
Divided into underwear and coats. Underwear clings to the human body, playing the role of protecting the body, keeping warm and shaping; Coats are used in different places, and there are many varieties and categories. It can also be divided into: social clothing, daily clothing, professional clothing, sports clothing, indoor clothing, stage clothing and so on.
3. Classification according to clothing fabrics and production technology
Chinese clothing, western clothing, embroidered clothing, woolen clothing, rice, silk clothing, cotton clothing, fur clothing, knitted clothing, down clothing, etc.
Three, according to the classification of HS code
The Harmonized Commodity Description and Coding System (HS) is a multi-purpose international commodity classification catalogue, which is based on the classification catalogue of the Customs Cooperation Council (CCCN) and the United Nations Standard International Trade Classification (SITC), and refers to other major international tariff, statistics, transportation and other classification and coordination systems. HS code, six digits represent its classification number, the first two digits represent the chapter number, the third and fourth digits represent the position of each product in the chapter (arranged according to the processing level), the first to fourth digits are the title, and the fifth and sixth digits are called the subtitle, and the first six digits are consistent in all countries. After the seventh digit, it refers to the number of codes formulated by countries according to their own needs. Clothing belongs to the eleventh category and chapters 6 1 and 62 of the harmonized system classification system. Chapter 6 1 is a knitted or crocheted product, with the number from 610/.1000-610/.9000 * * 65438. Suitable for any textile products except filled tires. The serial numbers range from 6201.1100-6217.9000 to *** 155, which are classified according to style, gender, age and raw materials. For example, the HS number of pure cotton men's down jacket is 62065438. HS code classification has specific requirements for the gender of clothing, that is, gender is divided into male, boy, female, girl and baby; The left placket belongs to men above the right placket, and vice versa. Neutral clothing belongs to women. The knitting sequence of needles, woven garments and garment accessories is from coat to underwear according to product characteristics, needles correspond to woven fabrics, and then other products. For example, 6203. 1 100 is a men's suit made of wool or fine animal hair (for coats), and 6207. 1 100 is a cotton men's underwear (for underwear, with the code at the back), and another example is: 6104.5003.0000000000006
Four, according to the production and processing characteristics of knitted clothing classification.
(A) Wool knitted clothing category
1. Classification by raw material composition
(1) Pure wool (including blended wool): it can be divided into woolen sweater, cashmere sweater, camel hair shirt, lamb hair (short hair) shirt, rabbit hair blended shirt, camel hair blended shirt and yak hair blended shirt.
(2) Blended fabrics: they can be divided into wool/acrylic, rabbit hair/acrylic, mohair/acrylic, camel hair/acrylic, cashmere/nylon blended shirts, cashmere/silk blended shirts, etc.
(3) Pure chemical fiber (including chemical fiber blended type): it can be divided into elastic nylon shirts, elastic polypropylene shirts, elastic polyester shirts, acrylic bulky shirts, acrylic/polyester, viscose/nylon blended shirts, etc.
(4) Interwoven fabric: it can be divided into wool acrylic fabric, rabbit wool acrylic fabric, wool cotton woven shirt, etc.
2. Classification by spinning process
(1) Combs: knitted wool, fine wool, sweaters, thick sweaters, etc. Spinning by combing process.
(2) Carding category: all kinds of sweaters, cashmere sweaters, rabbit sweaters, camel sweaters, shiran sweaters, etc. Woven by knitting yarn spun by carding process.
(3) Colored yarn sweater: A colored sweater woven with colored knitting pile (terry yarn, knotless yarn and brushed yarn). This kind of sweater is unique in appearance, style and artistry.
3. Classification by knitting machine type
Sweater fabrics are generally weft knitted fabrics, including circular knitting machine products and flat knitting machine products.
(1) Circular knitting machine products: refers to sweaters that are woven into cylindrical grey cloth by circular knitting machine and then cut and sewn.
(2) Flat knitting machine products: refers to sweaters made by knitting garment blanks with hand-operated flat knitting machines and then processing and sewing them. It can also refer to the grey cloth woven by computer flat knitting machine, which is cut and sewn into sweaters.
4. Classification by fabric structure.
Generally divided into single-sided, Siping, fish scale, jacquard, pull flower, pick flower, twist and so on.
5. Classification according to the modified mode
It can be divided into printing, embroidery, applique, tie-flower, beaded flower, plate flower, napping, felting, inlaying, relief and so on.
(1) Printed sweater: The pattern is printed on the sweater by printing process to improve the beautification effect, which is a new variety of sweater. Printed patterns include whole body printing, predecessor printing, local printing and so on. Beautiful appearance, strong artistic appeal and good decoration.
(2) Embroidering sweaters: Embroidering various flower patterns on sweaters by manual or mechanical means. The patterns are exquisite and colorful, mostly tops and children's clothes. There are natural embroidered sweaters, plain embroidered sweaters, colored embroidered sweaters, velvet embroidered sweaters, silk embroidered sweaters, gold and silver embroidered sweaters and so on.
(3) Pulling the Mao Mao sweater: the knitted sweater piece is napped, so that a layer of uniform and dense fluff is pulled up on the surface of the fabric. Mullah shirts feel fluffy and soft, and they are light and warm to wear.
(4) Shrinking sweaters: Also known as shrinking Mao Mao shirts and sweaters, they generally need felt. The cashmere sweater is dense and thick in texture, soft and plump in hand, dense and delicate in surface fluff, and comfortable and warm to wear.
(5) Embossed sweater: It is a new kind of sweater with strong artistry. The pattern is printed on the sweater with water-soluble anti-felting resin, and then the whole sweater is felted. The pattern printed with anti-felting agent does not produce felting phenomenon, and the fabric surface presents felting and non-felting relief patterns, and then the embossed patterns are decorated with printing, so that the patterns are strong, beautiful and elegant, giving people a novel and eye-catching feeling.
(2) Cotton knitted clothing category
1. According to the production mode of fabrics, knitted garment fabrics are divided into warp knitting and weft knitting.
2. According to the fabric structure, the basic warp knitting structures of single-comb warp knitted fabric are warp knitting, satin knitting and warp knitting. However, in actual production, double-comb or multi-comb warp knitting structure is generally used as coat or shirt. In double-comb warp knitted fabrics, plain weave, plain weave and chain weave are widely used. The basic structure of weft knitted fabric mainly includes weft knitted plain knitting (commonly known as sweat cloth), rib knitting (commonly known as elastic cloth), double rib knitting (also known as double front knitting, commonly known as cotton wool cloth) and double back knitting (also known as pearl knitting). There are cushion weave, tuck stitch weave, terry weave, pineapple weave, leno weave, ripple weave, plush weave, warp and weft insert weave and composite weave.
Five, other classification methods
In addition to the classification methods mentioned above, some clothes are classified according to gender, age, nationality and special functions.
1. by gender
There are men's and women's clothes.
2. Classification by age
There are baby clothes, children's clothes, adult clothes and old people's clothes.
3. Classification by ethnic group
There are China national costumes and foreign national costumes, such as Han costumes, Tibetan costumes, Mexican costumes and Indian costumes.
4. Classification by special function
There are heat-resistant and fire-resistant clothing, high-temperature overalls, watertight diving suits, flying suits worn at high altitude, spacesuits, mountaineering suits worn at high mountains and so on.
5. Classify clothes according to their thickness and different padding.
There are single clothes, double clothes, cotton-padded clothes, down jackets, silk cotton-padded jackets and so on.
6. Classify clothes according to their washing effect.
There are stone washing, rinsing, general washing, sand washing, enzyme washing, snowflake washing and so on.
7. Classification according to national standards
Class A refers to the safety standard of infant clothing products under 36 months.
Class b and class c are the safety standards for children or adults, in which: class b refers to products that can be directly applied to the skin; Class C is a product that cannot be peeled directly. Modern clothing is complex and diverse, which can be classified according to the following aspects: gender and age characteristics, application in clothing sequence, human activity nature, season, fabric texture and so on. According to the nature of people's activities, it can be divided into life clothes, sportswear, work clothes, military uniforms, costumes and so on. Different clothing varieties have their own specific requirements for material selection.
Life clothes are divided into underwear, shirts, bathrobes, coats and fashion.
Underwear: Close to the skin. Generally, materials with rich hygroscopicity and good fit are selected, such as pure cotton and blended knitted fabrics.
Shirt: it is a garment worn outside underwear, and it can also be worn as a coat. It should be comfortable to wear, smooth and wrinkle-resistant, easy to wash and quick to dry. Cotton or blended chemical fiber fabrics and chemical fiber fabrics should be selected, which not only have considerable fastness, but also have good wearability.
③ Bathrobe: Wear it directly on the body after bathing to absorb a lot of water on the human body surface. Soft, elastic and hygroscopic terry woven and knitted fabrics should be selected. The raw materials are cotton and hygroscopic blended fabric.
4 coat: it is all kinds of clothes worn outside. Coats often reflect the wearer's demeanor, status and nature of work. There are many kinds of coats, including dresses and daily clothes, which often vary with national conditions and customs.
⑤ Fashion: It has obvious timeliness, and a unique clothing form often appears every few years, forming a temporary fashion. Fashion production and fashion fabric production have strong timeliness, which requires designers and producers to have full foresight. Fashion sometimes needs to be processed with new varieties of fabrics, which requires higher color and flower shape.
Sportswear is a kind of clothing dedicated to a certain sport, including travel clothes and light work clothes. Sportswear should meet the requirements of specific sports to the greatest extent. It is not enough for this kind of clothing to rely solely on the skills of design and cutting. Need to use materials to make up for its shortcomings, the application of elastic materials. As for the thermal insulation, air permeability, hygroscopicity and firmness of materials, we should also consider the environment and actions that can adapt to various sports. Generally choose cotton, wool, hemp, chemical fiber blended or pure spinning knitted fabrics, and some use elastic fabrics. Travel clothes should be light, wrinkle-free and easy to move. The cloth should be strong, cool, thick and brightly colored. Commonly used are: weft knitted fabric and warp knitted fabric, tweed, wool-like fabric and so on. Mountaineering clothes should be able to cope with the changeable meteorological conditions in the mountains and have the function of protecting life. It is easy to put on and take off in design. Materials should be warm, breathable, washable, sun-resistant, friction-resistant and tensile. Clothes are light and small, easy to carry, waterproof and windproof, and radiation heat reflection layer can be added as needed.
Work clothes are all kinds of clothes worn at work. Some are used as special protective clothing and anti-static clothing, while others symbolize a certain occupation and are easy to identify. The materials used depend on the requirements. In addition to strength, wear resistance and general wear resistance, there may be some special requirements, such as fire prevention and oil pollution prevention.
Military uniforms are all kinds of clothes worn by national armed personnel. Military uniforms have strict requirements on quality, production, color and style. Generally durable, comfortable and warm. There are also special clothes, which are used to work under certain conditions, such as fire prevention, waterproof, dust prevention, oil prevention, radiation prevention, gas prevention and electrical insulation.
Drama costumes pay more attention to the stage effect. Materials are widely used. According to the content of the program and the specific needs of the stage performance, various colored velvet and gold and silver thread are often used for embroidery to increase the color. Although there are many kinds of clothing, the material structure can be divided into five parts: fabric, lining, lining, filler and lining.
(1) Fabric: the material that reflects the main characteristics of clothing, such as organic fabric, knitted fabric, non-woven fabric, stitched fabric, etc. These fabrics determine the performance of clothing (softness, fluidity, clear outline, rigidity, etc.). ) has its own modeling characteristics, drape and elasticity. Woven fabrics are still the main fabrics for outerwear, while knitted fabrics are mostly used for underwear, sportswear and children's wear. Knitted fabrics are superior to woven fabrics in elasticity, softness, porosity and wrinkle resistance. Modern clothing has new requirements for the quality of fabrics, especially the appearance of fabrics. Some appearance effects are the result of the whole fabric processing process, which needs to start with the production of yarn from fiber raw materials; Some need special looms or knitting machines and special finishing to produce.
② Lining: As a clothing clip, it is used to assist the contour of the fabric, and because the lining is in contact with underwear, it is advisable to choose a smooth, wear-resistant, easy-to-wash, light and soft fabric that is not easy to fade. Materials include feather yarn, feather satin, silk and so on.
③ Lining: Lining is between fabric and lining, which improves the wearing comfort and keeps the shape of clothing. It is called the "skeleton" of clothing. The lining material should be designed and selected according to the type and style of fabric. Lining materials include: hot melt lining, wool lining, hemp lining, non-woven lining, chemical fiber lining and stitched fabric lining, among which hot melt lining is the most popular lining material. The adhesive backing fabric of hot-melt lining is a layer of adhesive made of polyester, polyamide or polyethylene polymer compound coated on cotton cloth or polyester-cotton blended fabric.
④ Filler: thermal insulation material used to increase the thickness of clothes. Often choose fluffy fibers, such as cotton, down, camel hair and so on. With the development of chemical fiber, light and warm hollow fiber and acrylic fiber have been applied.
⑤ Inner container: a set of fillers. Loose fillers rely on bile to form a stable shape. The fabric used in the lining often depends on the type of filler, which generally requires compactness and softness, such as cotton cloth and polyester. Clothing is the main representative of human culture. In ethnic identification and ethnic research, clothing is an important basis and one of the objects that should be paid attention to, occupying an indispensable position. Due to various geographical, historical and social reasons, the ethnic situation in the world is very complicated, not only with a wide variety, but also with intertwined origins. In this way, it is not easy to really sort out the clues of the development of each nation, accurately grasp the various situations of each nation, and even correct the names of each nation.
It is generally believed that there are more than 2,000 nationalities of different sizes in the world. It is difficult to give accurate statistical data, which is caused by the difficulty of ethnic identification. Among these more than 2,000 ethnic groups, there are 269 ethnic groups with a population of over one million, accounting for about one-eighth of the total ethnic groups, but the population exceeds 4 1 100 million, accounting for 96.3% of the total population in the world. On the contrary, there are more than1.8000 ethnic groups with a population of less than1.600 million, accounting for only 3.7% of the global population.
Before the founding of People's Republic of China (PRC), the nationalities in our country were not scientifically identified, and due to various political and social factors, the ethnic relations were very complicated and the ethnic situation was quite chaotic. After liberation, many ethnic minorities made public their ethnic composition and put forward ethnic names, confirming that there are 56 ethnic groups in China, and the Han population accounts for about 93% of the total population. The other 55 ethnic groups are all ethnic minorities.
According to the classification principle stipulated by ethnology and the practical experience of China, ethnic identification is mainly based on ethnic characteristics and national wishes. In the national characteristics, national costume is an important factor.
As the basis of national identity, one of the national characteristics is that all ethnic groups use the same language. Ethnological theory holds that the homogeneity of language is one of the most important symbols of a nation, so ethnic identification should first consider the isomorphism of the recognized object, that is, whether people who think or are considered to belong to the same nation have the same language. Moreover, language has great stability and stability to some kind of forced assimilation, so it is authoritative and scientific to take language as the basis.
As the basis of national identification, the second national characteristic is that all ethnic groups are in the same area. In areas where a single ethnic group lives together, it is obvious whether the ethnic groups are in the same area, so the problem is much simpler and it is easy to judge. However, in real life, many ethnic groups often live together, and the question of whether ethnic groups are in the same area is much more complicated. For example, China's ethnic minorities have experienced many great migrations in history, and some ethnic groups have been widely distributed so far, often resulting in the interweaving of large and small settlements. Therefore, when considering the geographical pairing of * * * *, we should not only determine the location where ethnic groups live together, but also clarify the various relationships between them and neighboring ethnic groups.
As the basis of national identity, the third national characteristic is the national economic life. The close relationship between * * * and economic life is an important driving force for the formation of a modern nation. The national identity formed in the pre-capitalist period is relatively underdeveloped. In China, this problem is relatively more complicated. Because of the uneven development between regions, the same ethnic group living in different regions is often at different levels of productivity and economic development, and because the commodity economy is often extremely underdeveloped, many ethnic groups can only exchange things with other ethnic groups such as the Han nationality. Of course, for the same nation living in the same area, its production level and economic living standard are generally unified.
The fourth national characteristic is the basis of national identity and the psychological quality of the nation, which is expressed in the same culture. The connotation of this feature is particularly rich, which is manifested not only in the material life style, but also in the spiritual life style, that is, customs, daily diet, festive festivals, religious sacrifices, marriage and family, literary and artistic characteristics and so on. Among them, the core is the national psychological quality of * * *, that is, in the material country and spiritual and cultural life, it is often felt that everyone belongs to one's * * * "own". Of course, we can't just pay attention to the "characteristics" of individuals, and take the "characteristics" of individuals as the representative of * * * psychological quality to judge that people with certain * * * characteristics are the same nation. In short, in the formation and maintenance of national identity, the feature of "cultural identity and psychological quality" is indeed more important than other features.
Obviously, a nation's * * * is related to its economic life, its culture, its psychological quality and its clothing. When you arrive at a place, there are several different nationalities living in this place, or how big the life circle of the same nationality is. The most intuitive and simple way is to look at the spread of national costumes and how many different national costumes are worn. At the market in Xishuangbanna, people can point out who is Dai, Hani, Buyi, Lahu, Wa, Jino, Kemu and so on. According to their clothes, they can never go wrong. In fact, a nation's activity of producing material materials to meet its needs of food, clothing, housing and transportation, that is, their "first historical activity", is the basis of their economic life. Especially for the minority nationalities in China, where commodity production and commodity exchange are underdeveloped, what kind of fabrics can they spin? What kind of clothes to sew and what kind of ornaments to make are one of the manifestations of its production level and technology. When these things are produced by modern factories of other nationalities, they also show the same purchasing tendency. In daily wear, it is more obvious that they are "literate and psychologically qualified". When a man of Dongxiang nationality in northwest China goes out, as long as he wears a black or white soft hat and has a big beard, he will be very affectionate and peaceful when he meets others, and he will be well protected and given all kinds of help. It can be seen that clothing plays a great role in reflecting a nation's sense of identity and psychological quality. Clothing is an indispensable part and content of scientific investigation, and the information obtained from it plays an important role in ethnic identification and ethnic research.
In the practice of ethnic identification in China, the investigation of ethnic costumes has played a great role. There are about 5.5 million Yi people in China, which are distributed in Yunnan, Sichuan, Guizhou and Guangxi provinces. The densely populated areas are Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province, Wei Chu in Yunnan Province, Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan Province, Ninglang (Xiaoliangshan), Eshan, Jiangcheng, Weishan, Lunan, Nanjian, Xinping and Jinggu in Yunnan Province. After scientific appraisal, it was finally unified into Yi nationality. In addition to all kinds of general basis, the similarity of clothing is also one of the basis for final identification, such as the hero's knot on the head, the "Buddha" in the hair and the wool blanket. On the contrary, some people identify different nationalities through different costumes. There are about100000 Daur people in northern China, living in parts of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region and Heilongjiang Province. Because of their difficulty in language recognition, are they part of the Mongols or a single nation? From the clothing point of view, before liberation, Daur men wore Oroqen hunting clothes instead of Mongolian robes, while upper-class women wore full clothes without belts, while Mongolian women wore belts. Besides, there are many different customs. Based on all kinds of materials, it is finally confirmed that the Daur nationality is a single nation.