Navel orange contains a lot of vitamin C and carotene, which can inhibit the formation of carcinogens, soften and protect blood vessels, promote blood circulation, and reduce cholesterol and blood lipids. Therefore, more and more farmers began to plant navel oranges. This paper introduces the knowledge of navel orange pruning technology in detail, hoping to have a certain effect on farmers.

First, the shaping of young trees

1. Ding Gan:

Short stem shaping can accelerate the growth of lateral branches, quickly form crowns, increase the green leaf layer, bear early fruits and have high yield. Navel oranges are generally 30~40 cm high. The short trunk is not convenient for the control of longicorn beetles and soil management, so we should master the fixed stem height flexibly.

2. Number of main branches:

According to the variety, growth potential and orchard characteristics. It is advisable to use 3~4 natural round heads for the main branches, and the distribution should be balanced to avoid duplication. A certain distance should be kept between the main branches to improve the lighting conditions of the lower main branches and side branches.

3. Main branch angle:

If the angle is too small, the top branch grows vigorously due to polar growth, and the lower branch is inhibited, with few branches, which is easy to grow and difficult to bear fruit; At the same time, the upper parts are crowded with each other and the crown is narrow. If the angle is too large, the branches are prone to droop, the growth potential is weak and fast, and it is easy to bear fruit in different years. The included angle between the main branch of navel orange and the extension line of the main branch should be about 40, which can be supported by the opening angle of cable or bamboo.

4. Cultivate the crown structure:

Try not to cut what you can, and keep it as an auxiliary branch. After the hair tip, set 3~4 main branches, except for a few auxiliary branches, all others are erased; Cut off the weak part of the main branch properly before the spring shoots germinate, and choose a strong new branch as the main branch at the top after the new shoots germinate, and the rest as the side branches; If the main branch is too long, you can choose the 1 th auxiliary branch about 35cm away from the main branch. If there are strong summer and autumn shoots at the top of the main branch in the future, 1 main branch can be left as an extension branch, and the rest can be cored.

Second, pruning

1. Young tree pruning:

The new shoots of navel orange grow evenly, so it is generally not necessary to prune them when they are young, as long as they are wiped and dried. In order to avoid indiscriminate fertilization in cultivation, we should concentrate on applying available nitrogen fertilizer/kloc-0 for 20 days before the above-ground part, spray fertilizer outside the roots before the leaves turn green to promote them to turn green, and control fertilization in the rest time.

2. Prune the result tree:

① Three-dimensional results of culture. According to the characteristics of navel orange branches, such as uniform growth, stable incidence angle of main branches and good tree shape, the lower and inner branches, the lower branches and the inner and outer results of the crown are generally reserved, and the pruning should be light, and the tree shape should be kept large and small, similar to a blunt cone shape. If the fruiting branches are strong after fruit picking, well-growing branches and fruiting branches can still occur at the base of the fruit stalk in the next spring, so they should be kept without cutting. If the fruiting branches are slender and weak, they can be cut off from the base.

② Branch regeneration. Pruning mainly in summer can not only reduce nutrient consumption, solve the contradiction between fruit shoots competing for fertilizer, but also stimulate the growth of autumn shoots and change the proportion of fruiting mother branches. Summer pruning in Pingyuan county, Guangdong province is generally carried out after the physiological fruit-dropping period and before the fruiting of the mother branches. Pruning in winter should be carried out after fruit picking and before spring shoots sprouting, and pruning diseases, weeds and weak branches should be combined with clearing the garden.

③ Pruning of old trees. For trees that are seriously aging or too closed, the main branches can be renewed. Generally, the main branches are sawed off at a position 70~ 100 cm away from the base of the main branches, and the backbone branches are cut off. For some old trees whose branches can still bear fruit, they should be pruned in order within 2~3 years to loosen the over-dense and weak side branches and keep most of the strong branches. In the updated year, a certain yield can be maintained every year, and the new shoots grow better, with less sunburn and faster recovery of high yield. Regeneration should be carried out before the germination of spring buds, and after regeneration, sun protection measures should be taken, such as wrapping or painting with straw, coating preservatives or waxing, covering the ground, etc. After regeneration, a large number of new branches often sprout, which should be pulled out in time, leaving 2~4 evenly distributed new branches on each main branch to form a new skeleton of the crown.