First, raise seedlings
1. Cultivation of rootstock seedlings
1. 1 Seed collection: Collect fully mature fruits from the first ten days of September to the first ten days of1October. After ripening and softening, the fruits and seeds are squeezed out together, put into a gauze bag and kneaded to separate the seeds from the pulp, then washed repeatedly with clear water, and the washed seeds are spread indoors to dry in the shade.
1.2 Sand storage treatment of seeds: soak the seeds in warm water at 40-50℃ for 2 hours, then soak them in cold water for one day and night, and then store them in sand for 50-60 days before sowing. Kiwifruit seeds are afraid of being dry and wet during sand storage, so they should be checked and turned frequently to prevent mildew.
1.3 Sowing ① Sowing time: Generally, it is ideal to raise seedlings at an altitude above 800, and sow from mid-March to early April. (2) Sowing method: First, choose the nursery land in a place with deep and fertile soil layer and good drainage and irrigation and traffic conditions; The second is to prepare soil for the box, apply sufficient fertilizer and remove impurities. The width of the box is about 1 m, slightly press the seedbed, water it, and sow the seeds in the sand with sand. After sowing, sprinkle a layer of fine river sand with a thickness of about 2-3 mm, cover it with straw, spray water on the grass or build a plastic shed. Third, strengthen seedbed management to ensure that strong rootstock seedlings are cultivated.
2. Grafting and seedling raising
2. 1 grafting period: about 20 days before germination, that is, from mid-February to late March.
2.2 Grafting methods mainly include single-bud cutting. Specifically, it is to choose a scion with full growth and small pith, and prune it with one bud, which is 3-4 cm long. Choose a straight edge to cut off the cortex, the section length is 2-3 cm, and the depth is appropriate to expose the xylem or slightly expose the xylem. Cut the reverse side of the face with a short oblique plane of about 50 degrees. Cut the rootstock at a distance of 10- 15 cm from the ground, select the one with smooth surface and cut down. The length of the cuttings is slightly longer than that of the scion, and the depth is the same as that of the scion, and the rootstock is stripped by 2/3; Then insert the scion, and the scion is required to be basically the same size as the rootstock; Pay attention to the alignment of the cambium of the rootstock, and then wrap it with plastic grafting film to expose the eye of the scion bud.
2.3 Management of grafted seedlings: First, 3-4 weeks after grafting, grafted buds begin to sprout, and after new buds grow and basically age, the binding film can be removed. Second, after the survival of abdominal seedlings in spring and autumn, the anvil should be cut immediately, and the incision can be about 4 cm away from the interface. After budding in summer, you can fold the anvil first and then cut it. Third, it is the key to survival to erase the new buds on the rootstock in time. Fourth, the nursery should regularly cultivate soil and weed, and be careful not to touch the newly sprouted buds when weeding. Fifth, after the bud sprouts, a post should be erected next to the bud and the new bud should be tied to the post. Sixth, when the seedlings grow to 60 cm high, they should be picked properly. Seventh, combined with irrigation, human feces, pig feces and so on. It can be applied, or 1% urea can be added to the water, and calcium superphosphate can be appropriately added when fertilizing in July, so as to promote the aging of the shoots and plump bud eyes. Eighth, in July and August, kiwifruit seedlings should take shading measures to avoid direct sunlight.
Second, the garden construction
1, garden selection
Kiwifruit root system is fleshy, especially fragile, afraid of waterlogging, high temperature, drought, new buds afraid of strong wind breaking, afraid of late spring cold or low temperature freezing injury. Suitable for planting in subalpine areas (800- 1400 meters above sea level). Choose a place with deep soil layer, fertile soil, loose texture, good drainage and convenient transportation to build the garden. For example, when planting kiwifruit in low mountains, hills or plains, proper irrigation and drainage facilities should be provided to ensure no waterlogging in rainy season and timely irrigation in dry season. It is best to build windbreaks around the park.
2. Planting period
The best planting period in southern producing areas is from the defoliation of kiwifruit to the completion of planting before the germination of kiwifruit in early spring of the following year, that is, 65438+early February to early February, the sooner the better.
3. Configuration of pollination trees
Kiwifruit is a dioecious fruit tree, and the selection and configuration of pollinated male plants is one of the conditions to ensure normal fruit. The selection of male plants should pay attention to the same or slightly earlier flowering period as the main varieties, with large pollen quantity and long flowering period. The ratio of male to female plants is 6: 1 or 5: 1, which has high yield and good quality.
4. Planting density
Generally speaking, the planting density is closely related to the cultivation framework. Planting density away from home is 2m×4m, T-frame planting density is 3m×4m, about 56 plants are planted per mu, and flat-top planting density is 3m×5m.
5, support settings
Scaffolds are generally set up in the winter after planting, and are divided into columns (cement columns, wooden columns, stone columns, bamboo columns and associated trees, etc.). ), beams (cement columns, wooden columns, bamboo and metal, etc. ), and the shed surface is made of iron wire. According to local conditions, wooden frame, steel frame, concrete frame and accompanying tree frame are selected, and Y-frame and T-frame are the main frames.
6, planting frame
There are three kinds of frames commonly used in kiwifruit production, namely hedge frame, T-frame and flat-topped frame.
(1) Hedgehog: The length of the column is 2.6m, the thickness is 12cm, the buried depth is 80cm, and the clear height of the ground is1.8m. Four rust-proof iron wires are pulled from bottom to top, and the first iron wire is 60cm from the ground. A pillar is erected every 8 meters, and branches and vines are tied to the wire on the surface of the frame. This framework is widely used in production.
(2)T-frame: A horizontal beam is arranged at the top of the column to form a small T-frame. The total length of the column is 2.8m, and the total length of the beam is1.5m.. Three high-strength rust-proof iron wires are pulled on the beam. The depth of the column is 80 cm, and the clear height from the ground is 2 meters. Set a column every 6 meters.
(3) Flat-topped frame: the frame is 2m high, and a column is set every 6m. The columns in the whole garden can be arranged in a square. The total length of the column is 2.8 meters and the buried length is 80 cm. The pillars around the scaffold are connected by triangle iron or steel bars, and the pillars are drawn into a flat-topped framework with thick and thin iron wires.
Third, cultivation management technology
1. Planting techniques
1. 1 Preparation of planting holes It is best to turn over the garden 60-80 cm last autumn, determine the plant spacing according to 6×4 m or 4×4 m or 5×4 m, dig a planting ditch or hole with a depth of 60-80 cm and a width of 80- 100 cm, and mix each hole evenly when backfilling the topsoil.
1.2 Variety Configuration Generally, male and female plants in large orchards are evenly matched according to the ratio of 10- 12: 1, while male plants in small orchards require more, with the ratio of 8: 1 or 6: 1. The specific planting method is: every three rows, every two female plants, plant a male plant.
1.3 planting date and method (1) planting date: the planting date of kiwifruit is the same as that of other deciduous fruit trees, and it can be planted in autumn and early spring. (2) Planting method: If there are many plant stems buried in the planting hole, let them sink before planting. When planting, the seedlings should be placed in the center of the planting hole, and the roots should not be in direct contact with the fertilizer. Stretch the roots around by hand, cover the roots with fine soil, then cover them with soil, step on them steadily with your feet, and fill them with water. The planting depth should be even or slightly higher than the root neck and soil surface, and the joint should not be buried in the soil.
2. Management technology
2. 1 soil management (1) Deep tillage and soil improvement: combined with basic fertilization, deep tillage and ditching should be carried out at the periphery of the root system every year or every other year, which should be shallow in the crown. After pruning and garden cleaning, the soil outside the ditch should be deeply cultivated for 20-30 cm. (2) Intertillage and weeding: The suitable tillage depth is 10- 15cm, shallow tillage near the tree tray in spring, weeding combined with scarification in June-August in summer, which makes the soil loose and breathable, and enhances the ability of water conservation and drought resistance.
2.2 Fertilization management: First, base fertilizer: 65438+ 165438+ 10. After picking the fruits in late October, immediately dig an annular ditch with a depth of 35cm and a width of 30cm around the tree tray or furrow along the tree line, apply decomposed organic fertilizer, fuel cake and phosphate fertilizer, and then irrigate the soil. Apply residual fertilizer 1500-3000 kg, oil cake 150-200 kg and phosphate fertilizer 100- 150 kg per mu. 2. Topdressing before germination: from late February to early March, apply quick-acting fertilizer mainly nitrogen fertilizer, combined with irrigation, and apply urea 6- 10 kg per mu. 3. Fertilization during fruit expansion: One week after flowering (from late May to mid-June), apply compound fertilizer 100- 150g and human and animal manure 6- 10kg to each plant. 4. Fertilization in the later stage of fruit growth: from late July to early August, apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, control the amount of nitrogen fertilizer to prevent the branches from growing slightly, and apply 200-250g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to each plant. 5. Topdressing outside the root: topdressing outside the root with 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate or 0.2% urea solution at full flowering stage and fruit setting stage.
2.3 Water management Kiwi has shallow roots and is not tolerant to drought and flood; Growth requires high air humidity and sufficient soil moisture. First, before germination in spring, irrigate with fertilizer, 25-30 kg per plant, and irrigate 2-3 times depending on drought; Second, during the summer drought, depending on the drought, irrigate 2-3 times; Three, during the autumn rain, to timely ditch drainage in orchards or plants.
2.4 plastic trimming (1) plastic trimming is mainly based on hedgerow horizontal trimming, with less free fan-shaped main vines and T-shaped sheds. It is mainly light cutting and slow release, and pruning is strengthened during the growth period to slow down the trend and promote flowering and fruiting. (2) Pruning ① Pruning in summer: firstly, except the sprouting tillers, all the sprouting tillers on the rootstock and the branches sprouting at the base of the trunk or main vine are smoothed except the reserved branches; The second stage is the fruit-setting stage, when the spring shoots are semi-lignified, the buds of the long branches are picked above the last fruit 10 leaves or 7-8 leaves; Picking at the15th leaf of the vegetative branch of the spring shoot, if the secondary bud germinates, 3-4 leaves can be left for coring; Third, thinning refers to thinning the summer shoots that are too dense and too long, affecting the growth of fruits, and the weak branches in two new shoots sprouting between the same leaf axils; Fourth, bending branches, that is, bending, twisting and pulling the overgrown new shoots in the young tree stage to control overgrowth, and paving branches and vines in early August to promote flower bud differentiation. (2) Pruning in winter is pruning branches, that is, pruning branches that are too flourishing, too dense, overlapping, crossing, pests and diseases, weak and short-shortened branches, sprouting branches with no use value and fruiting branches without regeneration ability; As a result, the robust vegetative branches on the mother branch are good mother branches that will bear fruit in the next year. Depending on the growth situation and variety characteristics, the buds of 8- 12 should be cut short, the weak branches should be cut short, and the strong branches should be cut off after 15. The fruiting mother branch that has been fruiting for about 3 years can be shrunk to the place where there are strong branches and strong buds at the base of the fruiting mother branch for regeneration. Second, the fruiting branches are treated as fruiting branches, and 3-4 buds are cut off at the fruiting parts. 2-3 buds can be cut off from long and middle fruit branches at the fruiting part, and short fruit branches are generally not cut off. ③ Leave 5-8 buds on the regenerated branches.
Fourth, pest control.
1. The main pests and diseases are flower rot, anthracnose, stem blight, brown spot, fruit soft rot, Phytophthora, root rot, scarab, winged moth, bud maggot, fruit sucking moth, etc. Comprehensive control methods such as strengthening management, strengthening tree potential, strengthening soil disinfection and strengthening prevention are mainly adopted. Second, fruit sunburn mainly strengthens tree potential management and reasonable pruning. Bagging can prevent sunburn during fruit growth and development (late August).
Verb (abbreviation of verb) Collection and storage of kiwifruit
1. The solid content of kiwifruit harvested should be above 6.2%. Early-maturing kiwifruit varieties in China are harvested from late August to early September, late-maturing kiwifruit varieties are harvested from late September to early June 10, and delicious kiwifruit is harvested from late 10 to early and middle10, with frost at the latest. It is best to harvest the fruit after the dew dries in the morning and before noon. The temperature is high in the afternoon, and the fruit in the basket is easy to get hot. After harvesting, fruits are generally packaged in different grades according to their size and specifications. The single fruit weight of first-class fruit100g or more. 80-100g of Chinese kiwifruit and 70-100g of delicious kiwifruit; 50-80g of third-grade fruit.
2. After the ripe kiwifruit is harvested, there is a post-ripening process. The higher the concentration of ethylene in the environment, the faster it matures. Therefore, you can use 1000PPM ethephon to ripen the fruit and go on the market two weeks in advance. You can also use 0.05 mm thick polyethylene film to pack kiwifruit into boxes, and use the ethylene released by the fruit itself to ripen.
Step 3: Storage and preservation.
3. 1 forced air cooling, cold storage cooling or water cooling can be used for pre-cooling, and the temperature can be reduced to 0-2℃ or slightly lower than the storage temperature. Those cooled with water must be dried in time to eliminate the moisture on the surface of the fruit.
3.2 Storage Methods Kiwifruit can be stored at room temperature, low temperature and controlled atmosphere for short term (1-2 months), medium and long term (4-6 months) and long term (6-8 months) respectively, among which low temperature storage is the most widely used.
In commercial production, in order to soften the fruit and reach the edible maturity, the fruit is generally placed at the temperature of 15-20℃, treated with ethylene with the concentration of 100-500 ml for 12-24 hours, and then placed at 15-20℃.
Shaanxi Bai Rui Kiwifruit Institute