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Pruning and shaping of rose flowers

For potted roses, you should choose varieties that are showy, frequently flowering, short and sturdy, and suitable for potting. During the cultivation process, timely and appropriate pruning is required to maintain vigorous plant growth, well-proportioned plant posture, and abundant and bright flowers.

The key to pruning is to base on the environmental conditions of potted plants, combine the characteristics of different categories and varieties, and make the most of the situation to achieve the perfect gardening shape. Specific operation methods: The different ages, seasons, growth strength, and pest infestation of the plants should be understood and carefully considered. If the growth is strong, cut lightly, and if the growth is weak, cut heavily. Apply flexibly, and pay attention to the direction of the top buds. Focus on the outer buds to ensure a perfect tree shape.

1. Seedling pruning

The pruning of seedlings and seedlings for winter cuttings, spring pots or summer cuttings pots should be based on nakedness to promote strength and take shape as soon as possible. When small seedlings are planted in pots, one or two new branches are generally sent from the upper part. Some branches are very short and are budding: but the civilization is not formed, and nutrients are wasted. The young buds should be removed together with the first leaf when they are about to turn color. When the new branches without buds have grown to 7 to 8 leaves, the heart points can be removed to promote the growth of new branches. A second section of branches sprouts continuously from the top, and the remaining side buds are wiped off at any time. In this way, the seedlings grow vigorously, and gradually induce thick basal buds from the base (upper and lower soil surface) and rapidly develop into soil-grown branches (commonly known as strong branches). Native branches have strong vitality and strong growth. After summer and autumn, they will develop into main branches in the next year. It can continue to produce strong branches, produce abundant flowers and fully express the characteristics and characteristics of the variety. If annual new seedlings are properly cultivated, the native branches of different varieties should be removed from May to July when buds begin to appear, and the second and third branches should be cultivated. Do not forcefully prune them in summer and autumn, otherwise the growth will be insufficient and it will be difficult to form main branches next year. And it will become useless forever. It is advisable to prune vigorously in winter so that the hair will grow vigorously in spring.

2. Pruning of large roses

Pruning of large roses should be carried out when the minimum temperature drops below 5℃ in winter. First, cut off dead branches, branches infected by diseases and insect pests, cross branches, thin and weak branches and old and old main branches. Then, according to different varieties and plant growth, pruning can be carried out in three ways: strong, medium and weak.

3. Strong pruning

For hybrid aromatic rose plants that are not strong enough, perform strong pruning. Cut off about 2/3 of the main branches of the whole plant from the top, generally leaving 2 to 3 For each main branch, cut off all the horizontal and vertical branches and thin branches from the base close to the main branch, so that nutrients can be concentrated, and the flowers will bloom abundantly in the next year, which can fully express the characteristics of the variety. In winter, strong pruning and smooth pruning are the main methods for potted roses.

4. Medium pruning

Suitable for varieties with medium-sized flowers that are prone to branches. Generally, 1/2 of the whole plant is cut off.

5. Weak pruning

Weak pruning should be performed on prosperous roses and miniature roses that grow normally and vigorously, and about 1/3 of the whole plant should be cut off to prevent excessive nutrient consumption. , this type of rose should have more branches, which is beneficial to showing the characteristics of lush flowers and leaves.

The pruning site is generally 1 cm above the bud point, and the outer bud point is left at the upper end to make the plant evenly spread out, maintain ventilation and light transmission, and prevent lurking diseases and pests. For plants with sparsely expanded branches, depending on the needs of the shape, you can also leave the inner bud nodes to make the branches evenly gathered and the plant posture plump and appropriate. Pruning tools such as knives and shears should be sharp to make the cuts smooth and prevent branches from splitting.

6. Thinning buds in early spring

The buds of roses in early spring are dense, often staggered and overlapping, with both strengths and weaknesses. The buds should be thinned one after another to maintain concentrated nutrients, even plant posture, and abundant flowers. ; When thinning buds in early spring, first peel off the thin endogenous buds and overlapping buds from the base, and then remove the buds again when the remaining buds grow to about 7 cm. According to the needs of the size and posture of the tree, leave an appropriate number of strong buds to develop into branches and bloom.

7. Regular pruning

Due to different varieties and different pruning methods in winter, spring branches are often of uneven length. Measures such as bud thinning in early spring have been taken to make the first batch of flowers uniform. After flowering, in order to continue to maintain the evenness of the plant posture and ensure that the flowering period of the second batch of flowers is still more consistent, moderate pruning should be done when the first batch of flowers is about to bloom. . Master the ability to prune strong branches later and then cut them short, and prune weak branches first and then cut them long. All pruning parts should be cut below the point where the branches are most vigorous. If the branches are short and have few leaf nodes, usually only the first single or compound leaf under the flower is cut off. Long branches can be pruned as appropriate, but no more than 2/3 of the whole branch should be cut. Otherwise, the lower axillary buds will sprout slowly, causing the second batch of flowers to bloom sooner or later, with uneven height. At the same time, pay attention to pruning the top branches of the first batch that have not bloomed. After pruning, the buds still need to be thinned appropriately. According to the growth and plant type, two buds are generally left on strong branches and one bud on weak branches. After pruning, water appropriately. After the new shoots develop branches and leaves, add water and topdress. The second batch of flowers continues to bloom in mid-June.

The potted rose flowers in Beijing area are unobstructed under natural climate conditions. After the second batch of flowers bloom, they enter the high temperature and rainy season. Most varieties are in a semi-dormant state, and the new buds and branches are numerous, thin, and uneven. , the flowers are not formed. During this period, it is not advisable to prune heavily. You can remove some of the overlapping branches and clumps of branches. If necessary, remove the flower buds to keep the tree even, ventilated and light, and to accumulate nutrients so that the plant branches can grow fully and robustly and bloom for the National Day. Be prepared. Autumn pruning begins in mid-August, and is carried out one after another according to the germination speed of different varieties, the growth strength of the plants, and whether there is any interference from diseases and insect pests. The pruning part is generally based on the second section of branches, that is, the branches where the first batch of flowers will develop: cut from the lower 1/3 of it.

Varieties with short branches that germinate quickly or grow vigorously can be pruned a few days later. Varieties with long branches that germinate slowly or grow weakly can be pruned a few days earlier. At the same time, pay attention to pruning and leaving other branches. In this way, the flowers will bloom during the National Day due to the cool, stable climate and light. The temperature is moderate, and the flower performance does not diminish the beauty and grace of spring.

8. Update and pruning

In potted roses, the native branches that sprout from the stem base every spring and summer (the grafted seedlings are above the rootstock) can develop into main branches in the second year if properly maintained. . In order to maintain a well-proportioned and plump plant shape, native branches should be carefully maintained so that the main branches of the plant can be renewed year after year. The specific approach can be adapted to the situation according to the expected tree type. Generally, the position of the flower pot can be rotated to make the new native branches grow strong. The old branches can be cut off from the base of the stem and updated at any time. You can also use thin bamboo strips to insert them in the predetermined position when the new native branches grow to 20 to 30 centimeters. Tie it up and lure it to its intended location.

Through our introduction, I believe everyone has a deeper understanding of rose flower shaping and pruning.