In the improved peach base in Mengx, Shandong Province, two methods, square bud grafting and green branch grafting, were used to graft 5-6-year-old walnut trees. The operation was simple and the survival rate was high. Among them, the grafting method of green branch grafting has obtained the national invention patent.
How to Graft Walnut Trees
Grafting method of walnut tree:
Split with 1 to bite the rootstock and insert the scion. Splitting is the main method of branch grafting in spring.
1) rootstock cutting. Saw off the rootstock where the bark is straight and scar-free, smooth the wound with a knife, and then split 1 4-5 cm deep vertical seam in the middle of the rootstock.
2) Cutting the scion. Leave 2-3 buds on the scion, and cut 1 knife on the left and right of the lower part to form a wedge shape. The wedge-shaped outer side of the lower part of the scion is connected with the rootstock cambium. There is no internal connection. The cutting length of the scion is 4-5cm. The cutting surface should be smooth and the angle should be appropriate, so that the rootstock and scion at the interface can be butted from top to bottom.
3) Join. The key is to align the cambium on both sides, and it is best to make the cambium on both sides of the scion face each other. If the two sides cannot be aligned, keep one side of the forming layer aligned. Be careful not to insert all the wounds of the scion into the incision, exposing more than 0.5 cm to facilitate wound healing.
4) dress. For medium or thin rootstocks, insert the scion of 1 into the split (preferably sealed with wax), and then tie the joint with a plastic strip with a width of 4 cm and a length of 30-40 cm. When dressing, all cracks, wounds and exposed parts should be bandaged and tied tightly.
2.2 Square grafting When grafting, the buds taken are square, and a square bark is taken from the rootstock, so it is called square bud grafting. Square budding contact surface is large, which is suitable for walnuts that are not easy to germinate and germinate easily after grafting.
1) rootstock cutting. When grafting, compare the length of the incision between the rootstock and the scion, and carve the mark with a knife. Then cut a knife against the xylem, up and down, left and right, and then pick out and remove the root bark with the tip of the knife.
2) Join. Put the bud into the rootstock incision so that it is just closed with the rootstock incision. If the scion bud is smaller, it doesn't matter: if the scion bud is too big to insert, it must be cut to make it the right size.
3) dress. Tie the joint with a plastic strip with a width of1-1.5cm and a length of 30-40cm to expose the bud and petiole.
2.3 Double-door sprouting and single-door sprouting pry open the bark on both sides of the rootstock incision, just like opening two doors, which is called double-door sprouting. Single-door budding is just to pry open the bark on one side of the incision. Other grafting methods are the same. Suitable for grafting varieties that are difficult to survive. After the grafting survives, it can germinate that year.
1) rootstock cutting. Make the length of the bud piece equal to the length of the rootstock incision. Cut the rootstock up and down at the smooth bark with an L-knife, so that the width exceeds the width of the bud appropriately. Then cut the L knife longitudinally in the center to make the incision H-shaped. If it is a single door, cut 1 knife longitudinally on one side of the xylem. Then pry open the bark to form a double door or a single door.
2) Cutting the scion. Carve an L knife around the scion bud and take out the square bud.
3) Join. Put the scion into the incision of the rootstock, and perform double-door budding, that is, cover the left and right sides of the scion bud sheet; Single-door bud, that is, pry open the rootstock skin to cover the scion bud, and the bud should be close to the pried side.
4) dress. Bind the buds with plastic strips with a width of1-1.5cm and a length of 30-40cm to expose the buds and petioles.
In addition, after the walnut tree is grafted, after the scion spreads its leaves, it is necessary to wrap the wound with plastic strips when the "drained" wound no longer flows out, so as to promote wound healing.
When is the best time for grafting walnut trees?
Preparation before grafting
1. The grafted scion is taken from the annual fruiting branch of the superior tree, and its length is 15 ~ 20 cm. After collection, it was divided into 50 varieties and preserved in time by wax sealing. Scions were collected in1~ February. Stored in an ice room, the air temperature is controlled below 5℃, the humidity is about 70%, and the water content of wet sand is about 30%.
2. The rootstock is ready and suitable for beginners to graft. It is best to select 3 ~ 10 young trees for grafting.
3. Preparation of grafting materials ① Waxing: rosin, mineral wax, animal oil and alcohol. ② Binding materials: polyamide fiber rope and thickened plastic film. (3) Waste newspapers. ④ Plastic pipe: diameter 10 ~ 15cm, length 20 ~ 30cm. ⑤ A bamboo stick with a width of 2 cm.
Second, the grafting method is half-joking grafting.
Third, the grafting time is half a month before and after Qingming.
There are also budding with high survival rate, usually from mid-May to mid-July in the north! The south is earlier!
Fourthly, the grafting step
1. Remove miscellaneous irrigation, weeds and shade trees around the rootstock before grafting.
2. The bleeding of walnut tree is serious, which seriously affects the wound healing after grafting. If the bleeding is not handled properly, the survival rate is very low. Therefore, water must be drained before grafting to reduce bleeding. The method is: after cleaning the rootstock, use a hand saw to cut the cortex symmetrically from 10 cm above the ground, and then reach the xylem to make water flow out, resulting in 5 ~ 10 wounds. If possible, cut off a big root and drain water.
graft
(1) Cut off the trunk at a distance of 1.2 ~ 1.5 meters from the ground, flatten the section with a knife, and let the larger trees graft multiple heads.
(2) Selection of scions: select more than three scions with full buds, small pith, no germination, no water loss and no mildew, cut them into oblique sections, the length of which is 3-5cm, and peel off the wood and cortex.
③ Select the smooth side of the tree trunk on the cutting surface of the rootstock, cut it into crescent shape with a knife, and gently peel off the rough epidermis on the cortex of the rootstock with a knife to expose the green skin. The crescent is 0.8 ~ 1cm in width and 3 ~ 5cm in length. Insert the bamboo stick between the wood and the cortex to a depth of 3 ~ 5 cm. After pulling out, peel off the cut scion, insert the wooden part, press the scion cortex on the rootstock, then tie it firmly with polyamide fiber rope from bottom to top, and evenly wax the joint.
④ Bandage: There are two situations. One is to wrap it with thick plastic film from bottom to top until it is wrapped on the top of the scion. The other is to tie the plastic film wrapped in waste newspaper into a tube, and tie the lower part tightly. The length of the tube is 5 ~ 10 cm longer than that of the scion. Fill the cylinder with wet soil and tamp it gently. The height of soil is 3 ~ 5cm higher than that of scion, and the humidity should be pinched by hand. It is advisable to loosen it, tie the upper part tightly and put on a plastic bag.
Due to the unfavorable factors such as large bleeding, crooked scion and large pith, the survival rate will be improved only if the tools are sharp and the operation is accurate and standardized in the grafting process.
Verb (abbreviation for verb) management after grafting
1. Clean the roots and sprout. Because the upper branches of the rootstock have been removed and the scions have not been picked, the hidden buds on the rootstock are easily pulled out. If it is not removed in time, it will consume nutrients and water and affect survival and growth. Therefore, the buds on the rootstock must be wiped early and cleaned small.
2. Give fresh air to bagged walnut trees. Half a month after grafting, after the scion germinates, before the sun comes out every morning, gently unpack the bagged walnut tree to expose a bud and gradually open the bagged walnut tree. Don't be too hasty in outdoor activities. Be diligent and focus on small things to prevent the sun from burning.
3. Wind damage Because the leaves of walnut branches are large and the wound has not completely healed, it is necessary to prevent wind damage. After the new tip is about 20 cm, the bracket should be tied in time to prevent wind damage.
4. After the new tip is 30cm long, untie the polyamide fiber rope.
5. After the new buds grow, use 40% omethoate 1000 times solution to control pests in the middle and late May.
Your adoption is my motivation! ! !
What is the reason why my walnut tree doesn't bear fruit for 5 years? Some people say: the grafting is not good. Is it?
In recent years, grain has become less and less valuable, and with the strong support of * * *, more and more people are planting walnut trees. Walnut trees are easy to manage, resistant to storage and high in income, and are deeply loved by growers. However, many problems in planting have followed, and many growers have reported that their own walnut trees have no results. Let me analyze the reasons for the failure:
1, non-variety cultivation.
Walnut trees planted with seeds are called seedlings, and the failure of walnut trees may be due to the failure of grafting excellent varieties of seedlings. If the walnut seeds used are not selected, the walnut trees will be very different, with uneven advantages and disadvantages, and some will bear fruit late, and it will only bear fruit about 10 years after planting.
2. Poor site conditions and extensive management.
The poor planting conditions of walnut trees, thin soil layer, poor soil, laissez-faire tree growth, without management, lead to long-term malnutrition, thin branches, no flower buds and no fruit.
3. Improper management methods.
Too much nitrogen fertilizer and no shortage of water make the trees grow vigorously, with many dense branches and poor ventilation and light transmission conditions, resulting in short branches that do not bear fruit. Some branches in the lower canopy of walnut are pruned by interplanting crops under the tree, and the whole canopy is too few and mostly long branches, and the tree body is upright, with different strengths and weaknesses, and cannot form fruiting branches.
4. Poor pollination.
Walnut belongs to wind-borne tree species. Monoecious, but most varieties have different flowering periods, and there are no other orchards nearby, which leads to poor pollination and few fruits. Of course, if the pollination period is rainy, it will also affect pollination.
5. Pests and diseases are serious.
The damage of pests and diseases to walnut trees will affect the growth and fruit of walnut trees.
So how to deal with the above situation?
1, you didn't buy a variety of seedlings, you need to change it. Choose a reliable company, it is best to make a field trip, buy his scion or graft at home.
2. Improper management requires more knowledge of walnut tree planting management, reasonable pruning and shaping, less nitrogen application to control flourishing growth, and specific pruning methods. Please contact the author's name for details.
3. Some old varieties of monoecious plants have different flowering periods, which leads to poor pollination and needs artificial pollination. Apply boron fertilizer in fruit-bearing period to improve fruit-setting rate.
4. Early detection and treatment of pests and diseases.
To sum up, the key to planting walnut trees is variety selection. You must choose varieties that are disease-resistant and easy to manage. If you don't know how to manage it, a regular company will give you technical support. I have the following suggestions for choosing excellent varieties of seedlings that have not been planted:
First, it is suitable for planting trees in the right place.
There are many varieties of walnuts, including early fruiting and late fruiting, thin skin and thick skin, and the taste is good and bad. When planting, we should first consider the ecological adaptability of local varieties, whether the varieties have been identified by the state, whether the local varieties have been introduced and performed well. That depends on whether it is an early variety. Is it thin-skinned walnut? How is the output? How does it taste? Is it short or tall? Excellent and high-quality varieties: single fruit 12g or more, shell thickness not exceeding 1.2mm, kernel yield over 60%, and walnut kernel with light color (the lighter the better).
Second, how to distinguish between true and false grafted seedlings
In the past two years, there have been more and more fake grafted seedlings, which we call artificial seedlings or fake grafted seedlings locally. This kind of seedlings mostly take ordinary seedlings (or early seedlings or late seedlings), directly cut four holes around a bud with a knife, cut off the upper part of the bud, and then wrap a layer of plastic film around the bud, which looks like grafted seedlings. In fact, this is just an ordinary seedling or an ordinary early seedling, and the quality can't be compared with the real grafted seedling. The difference between the upper and lower colors on the wedding interface: The upper and lower colors on the wedding interface must not be exactly the same. If they are exactly the same, they are fake. The survival rate of nursery grafting is very high, which is basically false. In real grafting nurseries, the grafting survival rate should generally be below 80%, except for those that are not viable and too small to be grafted. So cubs can be divided into cheap ones and expensive ones.
Third, look at the strength of the company.
If you have the conditions to buy walnut seedlings, you should still make a field trip to see the scale and strength of the company. See if it is a mature company that has been doing walnut seedlings for several years. How big is the nursery base? There are dozens of acres or one or two hundred acres of nursery bases. This need not be considered. Imagine that there are hundreds of thousands of saplings in this small seedling base. If there are several big customers, you can imagine where the young seeds come from. Then it depends on the scale and achievements of the demonstration park. Whether the company has mature technology and after-sales.
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How to transplant five-year-old walnut trees
After the leaves are completely defoliated in autumn, before germination, soil balls (10 times of the trunk) should be brought and properly trimmed. Apply foot fat. Watering is permeable.
Video of grafting five-year-old walnut trees in summer
Hello, I'm glad to answer your question. Video of grafting five-year-old walnut trees in summer. You can search for "walnut tree grafting" on the video website. There are many videos of walnut tree grafting. For your reference. Thank you.
When do you graft five to ten centimeters of walnut trees in spring?
The most commonly used are branch grafting and bud grafting. ① Branch grafting: The suitable time for walnut branch grafting is from spreading leaves of rootstock to early flowering. In North China, it is about the middle and early April. The scion should be selected from the middle and lower parts of strong branches or long fruit branches, cut into bud branches before grafting, and dipped in paraffin at 95 ~ 100 degrees. Grafting methods can be split grafting and tongue grafting. Be sure to protect the interface afterwards. In order to prevent bleeding from affecting the survival rate of grafting, the rootstock can be drained before grafting. That is, around the base of the rootstock, cut several knives obliquely downward and go deep into the xylem to make the bleeding fluid flow out from the knife edge. The number of knife edges depends on the thickness of the rootstock and the amount of bleeding during grafting, usually 3 ~ 5 knives. ② Bud grafting: It will be carried out in North China from mid-July to mid-August. It is best to pick the sprouted scion while picking, and immediately remove the leaves from the cut scion. T-shaped and square budding methods are commonly used. In recent years, T-bud grafting method has achieved good results. This method can make a small amount of bleeding overflow from the transverse incision at the lower part of bud grafting, thus overcoming the problem of erosion of bud pieces by other bud grafting methods and significantly improving the survival rate. ③ Post-grafting management: Pay attention to timely unbinding and germination after grafting. After the scion germinates, it can be topdressing 10 ~ 15 kg of urine fertilizer per mu, and each fertilization should be combined with basin water. When the seedlings grow to 20 cm, posts should be erected to prevent wind damage. In addition, it is necessary to prevent and control pests and diseases in time to ensure the normal growth of seedlings.
How many years does it take for a walnut tree without grafting to bear fruit?
It takes 5-8 years for an ungrafted walnut tree to bear fruit.
It is better to graft walnuts. Grafting can improve the variety of walnut. Walnut is big, and it only takes 2-3 years to bear fruit after full grafting.
Grafting method of walnut tree:
1. Variety selection and grafting methods should choose varieties with strong adaptability, good performance, high yield, excellent nut quality, high grafting survival rate and fast molding.
1. Hard-branch scions (used for branch grafting in spring) should be collected 20-30 days before germination, and branches with small pith, full branches, full buds and no pests and diseases should be selected. Scions can be stored by sand storage technology.
2. The scion used for green branch grafting (bud grafting) is used at harvest. During long-distance transportation, protective measures should be taken to prevent water loss and avoid rubbing wax layers and buds. Scions must be used up on the same day.
Second, the grafting time
1, and the suitable grafting time is from early April to early May. Because this technique is not easy to master and the survival rate is not high, it is not recommended to apply this method.
2. The best time for bud grafting is from mid-May to late June. At this time, the temperature and humidity conditions are suitable, and the roots and ears are growing vigorously. After grafting, callus is easy to form, buds grow quickly after germination, and the degree of lignification is high, which is conducive to safe overwintering.
Third, the grafting method adopts square bud grafting, and the operation points are as follows:
1, rootstock treatment to remove too dense and redundant branches, the whole tree. Select branches with the thickness greater than 1cm, select the grafting position within the range of 1cm from the main branch (to make the tree compact), and then leave 4-5 leaves at the top of the branches to remove the top, flexibly control the budding direction, with the central stem bud inward and other lateral branches facing one side or the back of the branches, which is beneficial to restoring the tree shape.
2. Take buds, and select the buds on the mature and full scion with the thickness similar to that of the rootstock. When taking buds, when the upper part is about 1 cm away from the bud body, cross-cut it back to the original cutting direction, and then push the bud body to the other side at the fracture of the tear side, so as to separate the xylem from the phloem of the bud piece and ensure that all the growing points are removed. Finally, tear off the bud by hand.
3. Graft on the rootstock to be grafted, select a smooth part with appropriate position and direction, and draw a knife according to the size of the bud piece. Cut longitudinally (the length is about 2 times longer than the bud, which is beneficial to release water), then cut horizontally and tear off the phloem. The removed part is about 0.2 cm longer than the length and width of the bud. Then put the picked bud into the rootstock, and make sure that one horizontal and vertical edge of the bud is aligned with both sides of the rootstock. Finally, the buds are tied tightly with elastic plastic strips from bottom to top to ensure that the buds are in close contact with the cambered surface of the rootstock, and there is no windward place.
Sticking walnut trees at the right time is a grafting technique.
Choose the grafting time, the end of April and the beginning of May in the lunar calendar! ! 1, walnut "shoot grafting in series" can improve the survival rate and make the scion survival rate reach more than 95%. What is "serial grafting"? The survival rate can be checked 7 ~ 10 days after the first grafting. If the scion and leaves are green, it is alive. If it is black, cut it two centimeters below the scion and graft it. After 7 days, the survival rate will be checked. If it is still not alive, it will be made up in half a month. If the affinity of the third rootstock is not too bad, it should have a survival rate of 98%. The specific method is to choose the grafting time, from the end of April to the beginning of May in the lunar calendar, or according to the growth of local walnut trees, that is, the length of newly pulled branches of grafted rootstocks is about one foot, which can be shorter in arid mountainous areas. However, when the small walnut of the superior mother tree to be grafted grows to the size of quail eggs and table tennis, it is not conducive to survival. The selection of rootstock and scion, the young annual to perennial walnut trees with strong affinity can also be used for high-head grafting of old trees, which should be pruned in advance to facilitate grafting. The scion can choose the branches of walnut growing in the same year on the superior seed mother tree (so that the grafting survives in the same year and bears fruit in the second year) or look for the branches bearing fruit in the second year on the superior seed mother tree. Grafting method: Take a scion of 5-9 cm (depending on the density of ear buds) and leave 1-2 full buds on it. The lower end of the scion is wedge-shaped, with sharp and thin leaves on both sides, and the slope must be natural and smooth. Leave 4-6 leaves on the rootstock to cut off the tender tips, and the splitting length should be slightly longer than the slope of the scion. Insert the scion. If it is different, the scion and the rootstock should be the same thickness. If it still doesn't survive after the second skin grafting, it will be supplemented by skin grafting in the middle and late May. The specific method is to take the newly picked branches from the superior parent tree as scions, and immediately cut off the leaves and tender shoots after cutting them. Take a full bud from top to bottom with a knife. The whole bud is 2 ~ 4cm long and 1 ~ 2cm wide. Don't take it off after cutting. Instead, the bark of the same size is cut between 1 ~ 2 leaves at the base of non-grafted rootstock. Note that the bottom of the bark has a trough with a width of 1mm and a length of 1cm for survival. Then, quickly remove the bud from the scion and stick it on the rootstock, and tie it tightly with a film bandage. Then manage, wipe off the sprouting strips on the rootstock at any time, replenish water in time in dry season, check the dressing when the sprouting strips of the scion are more than one foot long, and remove them when it affects the normal growth of the branches. After that, it can be managed according to normal fertilizer and water management. Attention should be paid to pin-grafting scions quickly, and don't let pin-grafting scions stay in the air for too long, so should bud-grafting scions. Cut off leaves and tender tips immediately after cutting to prevent water loss. 2. 1 seedling grafting in spring: It is best to choose 1~2-year-old walnut seedling as rootstock and transplant it to the pre-arranged nursery in early spring at a speed of 30X30cm. Once the groundwater is emptied, it doesn't matter. By the middle and early April [depending on the local temperature at that time, the average temperature is about 24 ~5 degrees], when the new shoots of walnut seedlings are transplanted more than 2~3cm, the grafting time is ripe. According to the situation of rootstock, the grafting methods can be A double tongue grafting, B tongue grafting (including skin grafting) and C bone grafting, and the survival rate can reach above 95%. A double tongue grafting: the rootstock scion is 1.5~2cm with the same thickness, and this grafting method can be adopted when the scion is very small. I won't introduce the specific grafting method. B Grafting: This grafting method is used when the rootstock is thick and the scion is thin. If the thickness of the rootstock exceeds 3 cm, it is best to use tongue grafting. C bone grafting: this grafting method is developed on the basis of skin grafting. The thickness of sleeper scion is required to be above 65438±0cm. The specific grafting method is as follows: firstly, the sleepers to be grafted are leveled for later use, then 1~2 scions with full buds are selected, and the lower side of the lower bud is cut by 1cm [wide angle, but not vertical] to avoid cutting to the favorite, and then cut to the length of 3 with a downward knife. Then cut an inclined plane of about 1cm on the back of this section to make the two inclined planes intersect. Referring to the width and length of the big section (both slightly smaller), gently peel off the skin above the small section with a grafting knife to expose the tender skin, so that the scion is cut. At the incision of the rootstock, cut the knife vertically downward, and the width of the knife edge is required to be the same as that of the scion section, and the depth of the incision is similar to that of the scion section. Then cut the thinner part. ......
How many years does it take for walnut trees to bear fruit?
The fruiting time of walnut is also related to varieties and cultivation techniques. Early fruiting walnuts and grafted walnuts can bear fruit in 2-3 years, while late fruiting walnuts and seedlings can bear fruit in 8- 10 years.
Walnut trees are warm and afraid of frost. Walnut, born in the hilly area at an altitude of 400- 1800 meters, blooms in May and bears fruit in 10. Sandy loam is fertile and moist, and is commonly found in deep soil on both sides of the valley. Agricultural cultivation is generally in low mountains and hills about 200 meters above sea level.
Walnut, also known as walnut, belongs to Juglandaceae, and its varieties are divided into wild hickory and artificially grafted walnut. Originally from Central Asia, it is cultivated all over China. Generally, artificially improved varieties are selected because the improved varieties have higher yield and thinner shells than wild varieties, commonly known as pickled walnuts. Wild shells are thick, big and oily, and taste more fragrant, commonly known as iron walnuts. Walnut can be used as a shelter forest for road greening; Because its wood is tough and elastic, it is also the first-class material used in industry; Walnut shells can be processed into works of art, and walnuts, almonds, cashews and hazelnuts are called "four big nuts" in the international market. Walnut trees adapt to deep, loose, fertile and moist soil and cool climate and ecological environment.