Cutting is the most commonly used and main method to propagate Begonda. Different kinds of begonia have different cutting methods because of their different shapes and rooting characteristics, including stem string and leaf cutting. Usually, fibrous begonia, such as lotus root, lotus root, lotus root and lotus root, are suitable for stem transplanting, because they have obvious aboveground stems and can grow adventitious roots. Rootstock begonias, such as Malus equisetifolia (Pinus massoniana), Malus eyebrow (Malus baumannii) and Malus frog (Malus rex), are inserted with leaves because they have no erect stems on the ground and their leaves have the function of regenerating adventitious roots and sprouting adventitious buds. The cutting substrate must be vermiculite or fine sand which is loose, breathable, good in water permeability and does not contain any germs, so that cuttings or leaves will not rot due to water accumulation in the cutting bed (basin) or affect rooting due to infection with germs.

Stem cutting in greenhouse can be carried out all year round, but stem cutting in spring is the best. At this time, combined with pruning and shaping, the vigorous stem segments can be cut to about 10 cm as cuttings, leaving 3-4 leaves on them. The base of cuttings should be cut into inclined planes at the axils of leaves, because meristem cells here divide actively and take root easily. Then insert the cuttings into the matrix of 1/3 to 1/2. Once watered, 10-25 days will heal and take root, and you can plant pots one month later.

Leaf cutting is generally carried out in late spring, summer and autumn. It is best to choose mature biennial leaves. If the leaves are too tender, they will rot easily after being inserted, and if they are too old, they will take root slowly and will not germinate easily. After the leaves are selected, they can be inserted horizontally or vertically. The so-called flat cutting means cutting off most of the petioles (leaving about 0.5 cm), cutting off the main veins on the leaves with a sharp knife, each leaf can make 3-5 incisions, then laying the leaves flat on the surface of the cutting bed (basin), flattening them, fully combining the leaves with the cutting substrate, and spraying water until the substrate is wet. For about a month, they will take root at the base of petiole and the incision of vein, and then every 7-650. It can become a new plant seedling in 2-3 months. Vertical insertion is to cut off the thin tissue around the petiole and leaves, cut the base of the petiole into a wedge shape, and then vertically insert the substrate 1/2, keep the substrate moist, and take root and grow adventitious buds after 40-60 days.

Whether it is stem cutting or leaf cutting, after cutting, it is necessary to maintain high air humidity around the cutting bed and ensure sufficient light (shading in summer) to improve its survival rate. After the cuttings survive, the seedlings can be directly transferred to soilless culture, which can greatly speed up the growth of seedlings.