First, clothing pattern design in clothing production

Clothing design renderings are transformed from plane structure drawings into wool samples (production templates) for clothing production, that is, design renderings-determining body shape and data-structural decomposition sketches-determining drawing specifications and values of main parts-plane structure drawings-wool samples. In this pattern design process, the pattern designer must consider how to set up a better production pattern, so as to improve the quality of clothing, reduce costs and improve efficiency, which is different from ordinary pattern making (for individuals and customized clothing).

1. According to the designed sewing process, put out all seams in the garment structure drawing, and indicate the sewing methods and requirements except the existing technical parameters and marks on the net sample; Location and method of ironing; The determination of process sequence, production mode for layout, layout mode and accurate material consumption must be reviewed as follows: (Take men's shirts as an example)

(1) Review of set size. Measure all parts of the template according to the customer or given size.

(2) Check the suture. The connection relationship between clothing components is shown in the figure (1- 1), which shows the pattern of men's shirts. After the sample is made, check whether the armhole arc and collar arc are round and smooth. Check whether the bottom pendulum and cuff arc are smooth; Check whether the length of armhole arc and armhole arc are equal; Check whether the length of collar arc and leg line are equal; Check whether the cuff radian (except pleats) of the sleeve body is equal to the sleeve width; Check whether the front and rear side seams are equal in length.

(3) Check the alignment marks. Men's shirts are marked with creases at the front and buttons; Alignment mark of armhole arc of shirt body and armhole arc of sleeve; Button mark of collar and mark aligned with front center line; Ming patch pocket's welt creases, etc. Wrinkles on the cuff line of the sleeve, etc.

(4) Check the grain lines. Check the line direction used in cloth cutting.

⑤ Check the joints. The patterns produced by men's shirts are 1CM seams except lapels and Ming patch pocket seams.

⑥ Check the general mode. Men's shirts have 1 1 pattern (including bottom collar and face collar).

⑦ Check whether the information is complete. Including style name, cutting quantity, code number, cutting piece name, etc.

2. Cut the checked pattern into clothes to check whether the pattern meets the design intent. This kind of pattern is called "headboard". The unconfirmed pattern is modified, adjusted or even redesigned, and then re-examined as a "composite board" to make clothes, and finally confirmed as a garment production pattern.

Second, the pattern design needs to consider the fabric, process structure, clothing style and quality requirements of actual clothing production.

In the process of clothing pattern design, because of the different styles of clothing; Differences in fabric structure and thickness; Limitation of clothing technology and machine type; The difference of clothing quality and organizational structure will affect the actual production, so the production of clothing structural patterns also has different requirements.

1. According to the tight weave of clothing fabrics, different sewing methods have different requirements for sewing parts.

① According to the different thickness of fabric, it can be divided into three sewing quantities: thin, medium and thick. Generally, the sewing quantity of garment patterns for thin fabrics is 0 and 8cm, that for medium fabrics is 1cm, and that for thick fabrics is 1 and 5cm.

(2) Narrow seams should be made in places with large radian, such as armholes and necklines, because seams will wrinkle if the radian is too large. However, the sewing design of production patterns should be unified as much as possible, which is conducive to improving production efficiency and product quality standards. Therefore, the sewing of shirt collar and neckline is still 1cm, and the neckline should be trimmed to 0 and 5cm after sewing, which can not only unify the collar and neckline. Where the clothes are added, the seams should be wider, such as the seams at the back of pants. 2 cm and 5cm at the back center line, and 1 and 5cm at the front and rear side seams of the upper body, which can not only improve product sales but also meet the psychological requirements of customers.

③ Different sewing methods have different requirements for sewing quantity. For example, flat sewing is one of the most commonly used and simplest sewing methods, and its sewing quantity is generally 0,8 ~1,2cm. For some loose fabrics that are easy to loosen the edges, it is generally adopted to fold the seams together and lock the edges after sewing. After sewing, split bone 1 and 2cm are commonly used. There are generally two sewing methods for hem (skirt, cuffs, trouser legs, etc.). ) clothing: one is hemming after hemming, and the other is seaming directly (see Figure 2- 1c). The seam added by the hemming seam is the width of hemming. If it is a flat style, it is generally 2 ~ 2 and 5cm for summer coats, 2 ~ 5 ~ 3 and 5cm for winter coats, and 3 ~ 4 cm for trousers and suit skirts, which is beneficial to the sagging and stability of trousers and skirts. If the hem and cuffs are arc-shaped, it is generally 0,5 ~1cm, and the direct hemming seam generally needs to add 0,8 ~1cm on this basis. Used for the edge of large round shirts, flared skirts, frustum skirts, etc. The edge should be as narrow as possible, and the seam should be rolled up and sewn, which is the edge seam. The width of the roll is 0,3. The common sewing method for side seam, inner seam and back seam of jeans is sewing. The advantage of this sewing method is its durability. Pay attention to whether the front seam wraps the back seam or the back seam wraps the front seam, and the back seam wraps the head seam or the back seam. The general seams are 1 and 2cm, but the seams used in actual production are different. Huizhou Daikin Co., Ltd., Hong Kong Rising Sun Group, has been producing jeans for a long time and has achieved good practice. Because the specified size is calculated at the seam edge, the accuracy and uniformity of the size will not be affected after the finished product is completed.