I. Biological characteristics
Ground cover chrysanthemum is a perennial herbaceous flower, which is made by crossing 7-8 species of wild chrysanthemum. Plants are low (25-45 cm) with well-developed roots. Adventitious roots move, revive and expand every year to germinate new individuals, forming a cluster of low stumps with lush foliage and full crowns. Leaves are simple and alternate, with one leaf per node, oval or oblong, with concave or serrated edges, heart-shaped base and hairy leaves. Usually, flowers begin to bloom in autumn all the year round. Small flowers of 3-5 cm are solitary or clustered, and the branches are densely clustered, which can open thousands of flowers at the same time. The crown width per plant is 3O- 100cm or more. The main colors are yellow, white, red, purple, pink, orange, brown and variegated. Cold tolerance, drought tolerance, salt tolerance, semi-shade tolerance, pollution resistance, pest resistance, barren resistance, extensive management resistance, with the advantages of one planting for many years. Early germination, long green period, long flowering period and long viewing period.
Second, the use
The ground cover chrysanthemum has high coverage and good beautification effect, and is suitable for natural planting on gentle slopes to form large color blocks and exquisite patterns.
Ground cover chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and extensive management, and is suitable for plastic and natural coverage of highways, squares, streets, parks, scenic spots, residential areas, factories and mining areas, giving full play to the beauty of macro groups. Because of its high ornamental value and strong decoration, ground cover chrysanthemum is deeply loved by people, so it is widely used to decorate flower borders, flower beds, decorate courtyards and beautify rooms. For example, many low, creeping plants with many branches and large crowns can be planted in flowerpots, flowerpots and other containers to beautify the environment and decorate the courtyard; Varieties with high stems and strong petals can be used as bottle inserting materials to beautify the room; Some varieties can be used as bonsai and hanging baskets. Ground cover chrysanthemum is resistant to shade and mosaic, suitable for natural planting under the forest or at the edge of the forest, or planted in the lawn to form a mosaic lawn.
Ground cover chrysanthemum has strong cold resistance and long flowering period. Therefore, it is especially suitable for wide application in urban greening in northern China. Some varieties of ground cover chrysanthemum have certain medicinal and drinking value. For example, the well-known Chrysanthemum morifolium, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc. They are all good chrysanthemums for making tea, but the lotus seeds, silver cups and jade noodles in ground cover chrysanthemums are similar to Hangzhou Chrysanthemum and Hangzhou Huang Ju, even better than Hangzhou Chrysanthemum and Hangzhou Huang Ju.
Third, cultivation management.
1, copy
The reproduction of ground cover chrysanthemum includes sexual reproduction and vegetative reproduction. Sexual reproduction is sowing reproduction. This method has the advantages of low cost and large reproduction coefficient, and a large number of mutant species can be obtained, but the offspring have mixed characters. Vegetative propagation includes plant division, cutting, grafting and layering. In order to maintain the excellent characteristics of ground cover chrysanthemum, cutting propagation is usually used. Cutting experiment of terminal bud of ground cover chrysanthemum was carried out in Ulanhot area, and it was successful. This propagation method can obtain a large number of flowering ground cover chrysanthemum seedlings in a short time in any month.
Step 2 plant
Planting location: It should be selected in sandy loam with good ventilation and drainage.
Seedling planting: spray 20% carbendazim evenly for 400 times to disinfect the soil. When planting, the roots should be stretched, the growing points should not be buried in the soil, and the roots should be compacted with soil. After planting, water, keep ventilation and remove weeds in time. The temperature should be controlled between 65438 0.5℃ and 25℃.
Open field planting: transplant to the field in the middle and late May, with the row spacing of 20cm×35cm, and the appropriate planting depth is to bury 1-2 nodes at the base, compact the roots with soil, plant seedlings appropriately, and then water them. In the early stage of growth, it is necessary to loosen the soil and weed for many times to enhance the permeability of the soil. In order to prevent water accumulation in rainy season, when the plants grow to 20-30 cm high, fertilization can be used to cultivate the soil.
3. Remove residual flowers and prune diseased branches.
During the growth of ground cover chrysanthemum, it is necessary to remove the residual flowers in time, prune the overgrown weeds and diseased branches, ensure the nutrient supply of strong branches and keep the plant in good shape.
Step 4 apply fertilizer
Ground cover chrysanthemums like to fertilize, and apply sufficient fertilizer before planting. Generally, decomposed animal manure, cake fertilizer, a small amount of bone meal and calcium superphosphate are used together. Urea, cake fertilizer, etc. Topdressing should be applied at the initial stage of ground cover chrysanthemum growth. At the stage of flower bud differentiation and bud pregnancy, more phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer should be applied, and 0.2%-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0. 1% urea solution should be sprayed once a week.
5, pest control
The main diseases of ground cover chrysanthemum are leaf spot and virus disease. After the disease occurs, the diseased leaves, branches and plants should be removed and destroyed in time. At the initial stage of the disease, 500 times of 65% zineb wettable powder or 500 times of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder can be sprayed every 7 7- 10/day for 3-4 consecutive times. Spraying 50% thiophanate-methyl 1 0O0 times solution or 500 times solution of 50% doxycycline before onset has a good control effect.
The main pests of ground cover chrysanthemum are aphids and grubs. Ground cover chrysanthemum pests can be killed by chemical agents, such as spraying 50% phoxim or 50% phoxim 1000 times solution.
Propagation method of chrysanthemum
Hangju
(1) Sowing: Sowing is often carried out in summer. The best disinfection method for sowed substrates is to fry them in a pot, so that any pests and diseases can be scalded to death. Soak the seeds in warm water (the temperature is similar to that of face washing water) for 3 ~ 10 hour until the seeds absorb water and swell. For common seeds that germinate easily, this work can be omitted. For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up by hand or other tools, wet one end of a toothpick with water, stick the seeds on the surface of the substrate one by one, cover the substrate with a thickness of 1 cm, and then put the planted flowerpot into water, the depth of which is 1/2 ~ 2/3 of the height of the flowerpot, so that the water can be absorbed slowly. For large seeds, you can pick them up by hand or other tools, put them directly into the substrate and sow them at a spacing of 3×3 cm. After sowing, the substrate is covered, and the covering thickness is 2-3 times of the seed thickness. After sowing, the sowing substrate can be soaked with sprayer and fine-hole shower, and then watered when the soil in the basin is slightly dry. Still pay attention to the watering intensity and don't wash the seeds away.
Post-sowing management: after sowing, the seedlings should be uncovered in time, and the seedlings should be exposed to the sun before 9: 30 am or after 3: 30 pm every day, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak; After most of the seeds come out, the seedlings should be properly spaced: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings and let the remaining seedlings have a certain spacing; When most seedlings grow three or more leaves, they can be transplanted into flowerpots.
Hangju
(2) Cutting propagation: The branches used for cutting are called cuttings. Usually combined with coring work, the picked thick tips without pests and diseases are used as cuttings and directly used for cutting. The following management should be paid attention to after logging:
Temperature: the optimum temperature for cutting rooting is 18℃ ~ 25℃, which is lower than 18℃, so cutting rooting is difficult and slow; When the temperature is higher than 25℃, the cuttings are susceptible to bacterial infection and rot. The higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. When low temperature is encountered after cutting, the measures of heat preservation are mainly to wrap the flowerpot or container for cutting with film; When the temperature is too high after cutting, the main measure to reduce the temperature is to shade the cuttings, which should cover 50 ~ 80% of the sun. At the same time, the cuttings are sprayed 3 ~ 5 times a day, with more spraying times in sunny days and less or no spraying times in rainy days.
Humidity: The relative humidity of air after cutting must be kept at 75 ~ 85%. The humidity can be increased by spraying cuttings, 1 ~ 3 times a day. The higher the temperature in sunny days, the more times it is sprayed, and the lower the temperature in rainy days, the less times it is sprayed or not sprayed. However, if the cuttings are sprayed excessively, they are easily infected by germs and rot, because there are many kinds of germs in the water.
Illumination: Cutting propagation is inseparable from sunlight, but the stronger the illumination, the higher the temperature inside the cutting, the stronger the transpiration of the cutting, and the more water it consumes, which is not conducive to the survival of the cutting. Therefore, 50 ~ 80% sunlight must be blocked after cutting, and then the sunshade net should be removed gradually after the root system grows: the sunshade net should be removed at 4: 00 pm every day on sunny days and covered before 9: 00 am the next day.
Hangju
(3) Transplanting: When the seedlings are potted, first put 2-3cm thick coarse-grained substrate or ceramsite as a filter layer at the bottom of the basin, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer as a base fertilizer with a thickness of about 1-2cm, then cover a layer of substrate with a thickness of about 1-2cm, and then put in plants to separate the fertilizer from the root system to avoid burns. The base of the upper basin can be one of the following. Vegetable soil: slag = 3:1; Or garden soil: medium coarse river sand: sawdust (shavings) = 4:1:2; Or one of paddy soil, pond sludge and humus soil. Or peat+perlite+ceramsite =2 parts +2 parts+1 part; Vegetable garden soil+slag =3 parts+1 part; Peat+slag+ceramsite =2 parts +2 parts+1 part; Sawdust+vermiculite+medium coarse river sand =2 portions +2 portions+1 portion. After the basin is finished, water it once and maintain it in a slightly cool environment for a week. When transplanting seedlings, first dig the planting hole, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole as the base fertilizer (base fertilizer) with a thickness of about 4 ~ 6 cm, then cover it with a layer of soil and put the seedlings in order to separate the fertilizer from the roots and avoid burning the roots.
After the seedlings are put in, backfill the soil, cover the root system, stamp the soil with your feet and water it once. Generally, the core is removed twice before flowering to promote the germination of more flowering branches; After 1 ~ 2 weeks in the pot, or when the seedling is 6 ~ 10 cm high and has more than 6 leaves, remove the top and keep the following 3 ~ 4 leaves to promote branching. 3 ~ 5 weeks after the first coring, or when the side branch grows to 6 ~ 8 cm, the second coring is carried out, that is, the top of the side branch is removed and the four leaves below the side branch are retained. After coring twice, the plant type will be more ideal and the number of flowers will be more.
Edit this paragraph back to the table of contents-Tian Ju-Daily Management
Hangju
Humidity management: I like high humidity air. If the air humidity is too low, it will accelerate the withering of a single flower. I'm afraid of rain, so I need to keep my leaves dry at night. The optimum air relative humidity is 65 ~ 75%.
Temperature management: heat resistance and frost resistance.
Lighting management: I like sunny days, but I am a little tolerant of semi-cloudy days.
Fertilizer and water management: Like other grass flowers, it requires more fertilizer and water, but it is required to follow the principle of "applying light fertilizer frequently, with less amount and more times and complete nutrition", and keep the leaves and flowers dry at night after fertilization:
Summer and autumn: it is the peak season for its growth, and the fertilizer and water management should follow the order of "flower treasure"-"flower treasure"-"clear water"-"flower treasure"-"clear water" (at least twice a week). After flowering, fertilization should be properly controlled to facilitate seed maturity.
iris
Scientific name: iris
Also known as butterfly blue, iris and iron pole.
Iris is a perennial herb.
There are short and thick rhizomes underground, which are hard and crawling with short and light yellow nodes. Plant height is 30-60 cm. Leaf-shaped, 30-50 cm long, 2.5-3.0 cm wide, 2 rows, thin grass, light green. The stem is the same length as the leaf, with 1-2 branches, and each branch has 1-3 flowers; There are two Buddha-shaped bracts. The flowers are blue-purple, and the flowering period is May-June. The capsule is oblong with 6 edges.
Originated in Central China, it is distributed in Yunnan, Sichuan, Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and is longer than the edge of shrub forest at an altitude of 800- 1800 meters. Weak alkaline soil containing calcium has strong cold resistance, good drainage and moderate humidity, which is the most suitable. The aboveground parts did not completely die in winter. Flower bud differentiation occurs in autumn. In spring, the terminal bud at the top of rhizome grows and blooms, and several lateral buds often appear on both sides of the terminal bud. After the lateral buds grow in spring, they form new rhizomes and differentiate into flower buds again in autumn. After the flower bud blooms, the terminal bud dies and the lateral buds continue to form flower buds.
Multiplication by ramets. When the rhizome grows up, it can be propagated by dividing plants every 2-4 years, in spring and autumn or after flowering. When dividing the rhizome, each piece should have at least 1 bud, preferably 2-3 buds. In mass propagation, the split rhizome can be cut into wet sand at 20℃ to promote the germination of adventitious buds. It can also be propagated by sowing. Sow the seeds immediately after they are ripe, and they can bloom 2-3 years after sowing. If the seeds are soaked in water for 24 hours after maturity (early September), then stored in cold storage for 10 days and planted on a cold bed, they can germinate in 10 months.
Compost should be applied as base fertilizer before planting, and chemical fertilizer can be applied properly during growth to promote its normal growth.
Ecological habits of iris tectorum
Iris has roots except perennial roots, and the thickness varies from species to species. Generally cold-tolerant, the stems and leaves on the ground mostly die in winter and bloom in spring or early summer. The requirements for soil vary greatly according to different types, which can be roughly divided into three categories: those who like to be born in soil with good drainage and moderate humidity, such as iris and iris germanica; Like to live in wet soil or shallow water, such as iris sibirica; Like to be born in shallow water or wet soil, such as jade cicada. In this iris, flower bud differentiation is mostly completed in autumn. In spring, the terminal bud at the top of rhizome grows and blooms, and several lateral buds often appear on both sides of the terminal bud. After the lateral buds grow out in spring, new roots are formed, and flower buds are differentiated again in autumn.
The bulb of iris bulbifera is relatively small, with a diameter of 1 cm ~ 3 cm, and there is a brown film outside. I like cold and avoid heat, and I need plenty of sunshine. Rooting in September ~ 10, leaves in early spring and dormancy in early summer. It is a bulbous flower planted in autumn.
Propagation method of iris tectorum
Perennial iris is often propagated by ramets, and there are also sowers.
The propagation of ramets can be carried out when the rhizome is elongated, once every 2 ~ 4 years, and after flowering in spring and autumn. After flowering, the buds can differentiate in autumn and bloom better the next year. When dividing roots, it is advisable to have 2 ~ 3 buds per piece, and at least 1 bud is required. Seeds should be sown immediately after maturity, and will bloom 2 ~ 3 years after sowing.
Iris bulbifera is usually propagated by bulbs, and bulbs can be harvested every 2 ~ 3 years. After harvesting, spread it in a ventilated, dry and cold place. The black ball and fibrous roots on it cannot be separated or removed, otherwise the wound will rot and should be separated when planting in autumn. You can also use axillary buds, axillary slices, chassis, flower stems and other different organs to cultivate new bulbs through tissue culture.
Iris cultivation techniques
Perennial iris is widely cultivated, but different site conditions and environments should be selected according to different requirements for water. Wet life should have enough water, and terrestrial life should control water moderately.
Besides being cultivated in the open field in warm areas, Iris bulbifera is also cultivated in China. Bulbs should be refrigerated at 1C ~ C for about 60 days before promoting cultivation. If it is to bloom in 65438+February, it needs to be planted about 70 days before flowering. Those ready to bloom in February should be planted 50 ~ 60 days before flowering, and placed at 8℃~ 12℃ in the early stage. When Hualien is gradually pumped out, it can be gradually increased to 20℃~ 24℃, and the amount of watering should be increased, and sufficient light and good ventilation should be maintained. Leave at least 2 leaves when cutting flowers, so that bulbs can continue to grow. When the stems and leaves wither, dig them up in time and store them at 27C~29C.
1, tidbits
Abelmoschus manihot originated in China and is now cultivated all over the world.
Abelmoschus manihot is colorful and lovely. Compendium of Materia Medica says: "The hollyhock is like sunflower, and the flower is like osmanthus, with five colors. ..... Too small with epigenetic stems, five or six feet high, flowers as big as hibiscus, including crimson, light red, purple, white and single leaf Chiba. It used to be said that those stems are thin and dense, the flowers are bright and green, and the sandalwood heart is very good. " The flowers of hollyhock are not only beautiful, but also sunny. Poets of all ages have appreciated this. Han Qi, a poet in the Song Dynasty, said: "I didn't look at it at that time, but my heart was sunny." . The poem of Yao Xiaoxi, a gold man, said: "I am committed to knowing the sun, and I am relieved by the leaves."
Abelmoschus manihot has a long flowering period, vigorous growth and easy cultivation. When planted in pieces, the flowers are bright red or colorful, which is really spectacular. If planted on the fence, under the wall or in front of the building, it can become a flower barrier, and the potted plants in the courtyard or balcony are also very eye-catching.
2. Ecological habits
Abelmoschus manihot is a perennial herbaceous flower of Abelmoschus of Malvaceae, and its plant height can reach 2.5 meters. The whole plant has stellate hair, erect stem, few branches and lignified lower part. Simple leaves alternate, petiole length 6~ 15 cm; Leaf blade is nearly round, palmately 5-7-lobed, with a diameter of 6-15 cm, heart-shaped base, serrated edge and rough surface. Stipules are ovoid with three tips at the top. Flowering, from the middle of the plant to the top, each flowering is named Zhang Hong, with a large flower with a diameter of 6~ 10 cm. 5 single petal, single stamen; Bracteoles 6~7, connate at base; Calyx campanulate, 5-toothed; There are also double petals, except that the double petals are flat and there are many wrinkled petals inside. Flowers have the characteristics of Malvaceae, with attached calyx, and the colors are red, pink, purple, crimson, yellow, white and deep purple. The fruit is discoid, cracked, with many carpels and kidney-shaped seeds, which are easy to fall off when mature. The flowering period is from May to 65438+10, and the fruiting period is from July to165438+10.
Abelmoschus manihot is strong, cold-resistant and drought-tolerant. I like rich and deep soil, but the requirements are not strict. Like cold climate, tolerant to half shade. Have the habit of self-broadcasting.
3. Cultivation management
(1) water
Proper watering should be carried out during flowering period to promote long flowering period and good flowering until reaching the top of the stem.
(2) Fertilization
During the seedling growth period, attention should be paid to fertilization, weeding and loosening soil to make plants grow healthily. After flower buds are formed in leaf axils, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied topdressing, and several leaves at the base should be slightly cut off.
(3) Others
In order to make the plant low and prevent lodging, the roots can be cut off under the cones around the plant in June, once every 2~3 weeks, and then watered immediately.
When the fruit turns yellow and ripe, it should be harvested immediately to prevent the seeds from scattering. After the flowering period, the overground part of the plant can be cut off, and when new buds germinate, clustered plants can be formed. Abelmoschus manihot is easy to age, so it should be renewed after 2~3 years of cultivation.
4. reproduction
Abelmoschus manihot is propagated by sowing, which can be carried out in spring or autumn. It is better to sow in autumn in the south and mainly in spring in the north. Water it frequently after sowing, and transplant it when the real leaves grow to 3-4 pieces. Seeding seedlings are usually sown in June 5438+065438+ 10.
In order to keep some excellent double-petal varieties, hollyhock can also be propagated by cutting or dividing plants. When the cuttage is above 65438+ 10, take buds from the roots at the beginning of October, cut them into 8 cm long cuttings, insert them into sand beds, set up a shed for shade, and take root after 2~3 weeks. Branching is mostly carried out in autumn after flowering, and the branches extracted from the roots can be planted separately after being separated from the roots.
Tradescantia-cultivation and propagation
Commelina purpurea
First, cutting propagation: the branches used for cutting are called cuttings. Cut the stem into 5 ~ 8 cm long segments, each segment has more than three leaves, and the top can also be used as cuttings. Post-cutting management should pay attention to:
(1) temperature: the optimum temperature for cutting rooting is 18℃ ~ 25℃, which is lower than 18℃, so cutting rooting is difficult and slow; When the temperature is higher than 25℃, the cuttings are susceptible to bacterial infection and rot. The higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. When low temperature is encountered after cutting, the measures of heat preservation are mainly to wrap the flowerpot or container for cutting with film; When the temperature is too high after cutting, the main measure to reduce the temperature is to shade the cuttings, which should cover 50 ~ 80% of the sun. At the same time, the cuttings are sprayed 3 ~ 5 times a day, with more spraying times in sunny days and less or no spraying times in rainy days.
(2) Humidity: The relative humidity of air after cutting must be kept at 75 ~ 85%. The humidity can be increased by spraying cuttings, 1 ~ 3 times a day. The higher the temperature in sunny days, the more times it is sprayed, and the lower the temperature in rainy days, the less times it is sprayed or not sprayed. However, if the cuttings are sprayed excessively, they are easily infected by germs and rot, because there are many kinds of germs in the water.
(3) Illumination: Cutting propagation is inseparable from sunlight, but the stronger the illumination, the higher the temperature inside the cutting, the stronger the transpiration of the cutting, and the more water it consumes, which is not conducive to the survival of the cutting. Therefore, 50 ~ 80% sunlight must be blocked after cutting.
2. Transplanting: When the seedlings are potted, first put 2-3cm thick coarse-grained substrate or ceramsite on the bottom of the pot as a filter layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer with a thickness of about 1-2cm on it as a base fertilizer, then cover it with a layer of substrate with a thickness of about 1-2cm, and then put it into the plant to separate the fertilizer from the root system to avoid root burning. The base of the upper basin can be one of the following. Vegetable soil: slag = 3:1; Or garden soil: medium coarse river sand: sawdust (shavings) = 4:1:2; Or one of paddy soil, pond sludge and humus soil. Or peat+perlite+ceramsite =2 parts +2 parts+1 part; Vegetable garden soil+slag =3 parts+1 part; Peat+slag+ceramsite =2 parts +2 parts+1 part; Sawdust+vermiculite+medium coarse river sand =2 portions +2 portions+1 portion. After the basin is finished, water it once and maintain it in a cool environment.
Re-edit this paragraph to the table of contents-daily management
Commelina purpurea
Humidity management: I like humid climate, and the relative temperature of air in the growing environment is required to be 60 ~ 75%.
Temperature management: optimum growth temperature 18℃ ~ 30℃, avoiding cold and freezing. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 65438 00℃. When the temperature drops below 4℃ in winter, it will go into hibernation. If the ambient temperature is close to 0℃, it will freeze to death.
Summer:
1, strengthen air convection and let the temperature in the body radiate;
2. Put it in a semi-shady place, or shade it by 50%;
3, give it a proper spray, 2 ~ 3 times a day.
Winter:
1, move to a bright indoor place for maintenance;
2, outdoors, you can wrap it in a film for wintering, but every two days when the temperature is high at noon, you should uncover it and let it breathe;
Lighting management: If you are afraid of direct sunlight, you need to keep it in a semi-shady place or give it 70% shade. Indoor maintenance, as far as possible in a bright place, every one or two months to move to the outdoor semi-shade or shady place for a month, so that it can accumulate nutrients and resume growth.
Fertilizer and water management: there are many requirements for fertilizer and water, but I am most afraid of indiscriminate fertilization, centralized fertilization and partial application of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. It is required to follow the fertilization (water) principle of "light fertilizer, frequent application, less quantity and comprehensive nutrition".
Commelina purpurea
Spring, summer and autumn: these two seasons are the peak seasons for its growth, and the fertilizer and water management shall follow the order of "Huabao"-"Huabao"-"Clear water"-"Huabao"-"Clear water" (Huabao must be guaranteed at least twice a week, and the outdoor maintenance interval is about 1. If you keep it indoors for 2 ~ 6 days, the interval between sunny days and high temperatures will be shorter, and the interval between rainy days and low temperatures will be longer or without watering. Try to arrange the watering time when the temperature is low in the morning. In summer, water plants in the morning or evening when the temperature is low, and often spray water on plants.
Winter: winter dormancy period, mainly to control fertilizer and water. Fertilizer and water management is circulated in the order of "Huabao"-clean water-clean water-"Huabao"-clean water-clean water, with an interval of about 7 ~ 10 day, shorter in sunny days or high temperatures, and longer in rainy days or low temperatures. Try to arrange the watering time at noon on a sunny day with high temperature.
Edit this paragraph back to the table of contents Tradescantia-hanging planting technology Tradescantia is a kind of perennial herb which is deeply loved by people, with pink flowers and purple leaves. Plastic flowerpots can be used to hang Tradescantia.
First, line an old cloth on the inner wall of the flowerpot, then put an appropriate amount of sandy loam, plant three Tradescantia seedlings evenly, with a height of about 10 cm, water them once, then tie the flowerpot with nylon rope or fine wire and hang it in a place where the sunshine time is not less than 2 hours every day. The bottom of the flowerpot should be about 2 meters from the ground, which is not only conducive to viewing, but also convenient for daily management.
Don't apply fertilizer until the seedlings grow new leaves. Other management methods are the same as general flower cultivation methods. It should be noted that when plants begin to grow rapidly, they should be picked many times to promote new branches and make Tradescantia look plump and beautiful. In addition, it is best to use a narrow container when watering, and the amount of watering each time should be controlled to just soak the basin soil. You can add a saucer under the plastic flowerpot to prevent the floor from getting wet when watering.