Outdoor at the right time: Clivia, which overwinters indoors, should be moved outdoors for maintenance at the right time when the temperature rises in spring. Temperate areas are generally suitable for leaving the house around Tomb-Sweeping Day, and cold areas must be delayed for about half a month. You can also leave the room at a temperature above 15℃. 1, 2 days before leaving the room, open the window for ventilation. After leaving the room, it should be placed in the lee and half shade. After gradually adapting to the external environment, you should move to a sunny and ventilated place and fully receive the light.
Pot-changing and plant-dividing: The pot-changing time of mature Clivia is generally after flowering in spring, and plants that do not bloom in spring can be changed when they leave the house. After moving the pot, remove the standing soil and dead roots and replace them with new culture soil to increase nutrients and permeability. The established plants are still cultivated in the original model pot, while the growing plants are cultivated in the big pot. For those plants with tillering buds at the base, 3-4 leaves and plant height above 10 cm, it is appropriate to change pots and divide plants. Roots are cut off from the mother plant with a sterilized knife, and those without roots are broken off by hand. The wound is coated with sulfur powder or plant ash for anticorrosion. Plants with roots should be planted in small pots, and those without roots should be cultivated with fine sand first, and then maintained in pots after taking root.
Water fertilization: As the temperature rises in spring, plants enter the initial stage of growth, and the water demand is increasing day by day. The number and quantity of watering should be from less to more, but the degree should be to keep the basin soil moist. After the slow growth of Clivia in winter, there are few nutrients in the body, especially after the arrow flower, and its nutrients are exhausted, so it is necessary to supplement nutrients in time to meet the requirements of growth and development in spring. In spring, plants are in the stage of sprouting new leaves and the length and width of leaves, and nitrogen fertilizer should be given priority to. Generally, 1 diluted liquid fertilizer is applied about 10 days after leaving the room, and the concentration is flexibly controlled according to the growth and temperature. For example, compound fertilizer should be applied to the edge of the basin, and the amount should be less than more.
Promoting buds and flowers: Clivia, which has the habit of drawing arrows in late winter and early spring and flowering in early spring, should increase indoor temperature and watering amount 2-3 weeks before drawing arrows, and apply liquid fertilizer 1 time every 7-/0 days or compound fertilizer 1 time every half month. The soil can also be irrigated with water at 20℃ ~ 25℃, and the leaves can be sprayed with water at 25℃ ~ 30℃ to keep the indoor temperature at 10℃ ~ 15℃ as much as possible, which can promote the rapid germination of plants and sprout in time. As soon as the flowers spread out, water less, stop fertilizing, move the plants to low temperature, and extend the viewing time.
Clivia australis
Clivia grows to about 20 leaves and enters flowering period. In this period, it is necessary to strengthen the nutritional supplement of plants and promote the formation of flower buds. The key is to make good use of nutrient soil and master the season of changing soil. The nutrient soil consists of 60% red loam, 20% sawdust (made with urine retting), 10% bone meal and 10% protective ash, which are stacked in layers in order, and mixed when used. In Kunming, turning pots and changing soil is generally carried out for the first time in early July and the second time in the following year (1-February), so that flowers can bloom at least twice a year, and 2-3 arrows are drawn each time, with 30-40 arrows per arrow. Control watering during flowering period and put it in the shade to extend flowering period. The key to soil replacement is not watering for the first 1-2 weeks to avoid the fracture of fleshy roots. If the root system is too much and contains enough water, it can be planted in the shade for 1-2 days to make the root system softer. If the arrow is blooming, you can break it by hand and replace the old soil. At the appropriate temperature of 15-20℃, the arrow can be pulled out again and blossom again after one and a half weeks.
Clivia in winter
In the cold winter in the north, due to the frequent closing of doors and windows, the indoor air circulation is not smooth. Clivia can play a very good role in regulating the air and can be used to keep the indoor air fresh. Clivia has wide leaves and large stomata, and can carry out photosynthesis under extremely weak light. The amount of oxygen released by photosynthesis is 35 times that of ordinary plants. Therefore, it is advisable to raise a few pots of Clivia in winter, which can not only beautify the environment room, but also enjoy high-quality air. Seven aspects should be paid attention to when raising Clivia indoors in winter:
1. Clivia should be placed in a warm place indoors, with the temperature controlled at about 23℃ during the day and 65438 03℃ at night, and the temperature difference between day and night maintained at about 65438 03℃.
Clivia likes plenty of sunshine, but it doesn't need long-term illumination. If it is illuminated for 24 hours, it will affect the archery and flowering of Clivia.
3. In winter, the temperature is low and the ventilation condition is not good, so the watering times should be controlled. Generally, water is poured enough at one time, and then the basin soil is naturally dried. Excessive watering of good fruits will cause long-term water accumulation in the basin soil and cause root rot.
4. Some people think that the temperature is low in winter and fertilization is no problem. In fact, the fertilizer can be decomposed and fermented at 15℃ to 18℃, and the resulting high temperature can easily burn the fleshy roots of Clivia.
Clivia can't tolerate low temperature, and some people often put it by the fire to keep warm, which is easy to cause the leaves of Clivia to turn yellow and affect its growth.
6. The indoor air humidity is relatively low in winter, especially indoors with heating equipment, and the air is easier to dry. So always spray water on the leaves and wipe them with gauze.
7. After Clivia shoots an arrow, don't let her bud see the sun too early. Otherwise, it is easy to cause leaves to bloom.
Clivia aquatica
Clivia is a precious flower. The flowers are yellow to orange, and the flowering period is 1 month, and it can bloom 1 to 2 times a year. Clivia has always been cultivated with soil. Horticultural technicians of Qishi Scenic Area Administration of Shantou City, Guangdong Province have been trying to cultivate Clivia hydroponically for many years, and the experiment has been successful. The method is as follows:
1. Picking seedlings: Dig up Clivia planted for two years from the ground or take off the pots in potted plants, remove the soil, wash the roots with clear water and soak them in diluted flower nutrient solution 1 day.
2. Pruning: Cut off old roots, rotten roots, roots of diseases and insect pests and some old leaves, leaving strong and vigorous roots and leaves.
Third, take the container bottle: Clivia has two hydroponics methods: one is single-layer hydroponics and the other is double-layer hydroponics.
The single-layer water bottle hydroponics method is to take a bottomless vase, plant the treated Clivia on a sponge, then put it in the vase, and add clear water and flower nutrient solution. A double-layer water bottle hydroponics method comprises the following steps: firstly, taking a bottomless vase as a lower water bottle, then taking a plastic sieve as an upper water bottle, placing the treated Clivia on the plastic sieve to allow roots to develop, adding clean rice or beautiful river stones to make Clivia stand on the sieve, then putting it into the water bottle, and adding clear water and nutrient solution.
4. Cultivation management: move the treated hydroponic Clivia into a shade shed or shady place, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once a day, once every three days after fifteen days, and stop spraying after one month. Change the water once every half month after one month and add flower nutrient solution. Two months later, Clivia grows new leaves, and six months to a year later, Clivia blooms. After the flowers wither, cut them off with a peduncle, and then they can bloom again.
Verb (abbreviation of verb) Note:
(1) The environment is stable, that is, after Clivia is put into the water bottle, don't move three times and four times, and the environment is relatively fixed;
(2) Pay attention to nutrition and supplement nutrient solution once every half month;
(3) Pay attention to the combination of top dressing inside and outside the roots, not only adding nutrient solution to the water, but also spraying nutrient solution on the leaves;
(4) Stop applying fertilizer outside the roots at flowering stage to prevent flowers from dying prematurely;
(5) Promote flowering, and inject flower nutrient solution into the head once a month. Half a milliliter at a time.
The characteristics of hydroponic Clivia are: (1) low cost; (2) high survival rate; (3) saving labor; (4) simple management; (5) light; (6) Less pests and diseases; (7) Beautiful and placed in a room with a new atmosphere.
1. What flowerpot is the best for raising Clivia?
A: Clivia is a fleshy root with strong drought resistance, but it is afraid of waterlogging. Therefore, flowerpots are required not only to have loose soil and good water permeability and permeability, but also to have good water permeability and permeability. Clay earthen basin, also known as plain burning basin, fully meets these two conditions. Therefore, it is best to choose pottery pots for planting Clivia. [upward]
2. What kind of soil is most suitable for raising Clivia?
A: According to the physiological characteristics of Clivia, the soil is required to be loose, breathable, good in water and fertilizer conservation and relatively fertile to adapt to the root growth of Clivia. Rotten soil has these characteristics. So it is best to choose humus soil. Rotten soil includes oak leaf soil, oak leaf soil, hazel leaf soil and deciduous pine needle soil. Natural humus soil must be used and cannot contain other impurities. Different sieves can be selected according to different needs to screen out suitable particles. Small pieces are used to grow saplings, and large pieces are used to grow orchids. [upward]
3. What should I pay attention to when watering Clivia?
A: Water is the source of all things, and it is also a necessary condition for raising Clivia. First of all, we should choose the water quality, and the pH is neutral and acidic. Watering flowers with tap water requires trapping water, that is, putting water in a container for two or three days before using it. Might as well bask in the sun. Well water or other water should also be put in the flower cellar or the place where flowers are placed for one or two days, so that the water temperature is consistent with the temperature of the flower soil before watering the flowers, so as to avoid excessive temperature difference between water and soil and damage to the flowers. The best watering time is in the morning or evening, and the interval of watering depends on the dryness and wetness of the basin soil, which cannot be formulated. You can directly water the stems and leaves of plants. Large flowers, especially those on the arrow or blooming, should not be directly watered on the leaves, which will rot the arrow or affect the pollination effect. In summer, the temperature is high and the weather is hot, and the temperature of flowers and leaves is very high. Do not water the leaves at noon to prevent Clivia from catching a cold and damaging the leaves. [upward]
4. What fertilizer does Clivia use?
A: Clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and fertilizer is very important for the growth of Clivia. Clivia had better choose organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer is fermented with pheasant raw materials and applied after decomposition. For example, oil crops with more nitrogen content include bean cakes, castor seeds, soybeans, hemp seeds and forests. Bone meal, fish scales, rice bran and poultry manure have high phosphorus content, while plant ash, charcoal and rice straw ash have high potassium content. The growth of Clivia can not be separated from three elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and some fine slag, river sand and egg shells can be added to the soil to increase the content of trace elements. [upward]
5. How to fertilize Clivia?
Answer: Organic fertilizer must go through retting fermentation process, so that raw materials can become fertilizer, and raw materials without fermentation cannot be directly used as fertilizer. Before composting, the raw materials should be crushed and cooked at high temperature, which can not only sterilize but also shorten the fermentation time. The retted nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be put in different containers, and the raw materials of 1/3 and water of 1/3 should not be filled, so as not to overflow the containers during fermentation. The lid should not be too tight, and the gas can be discharged from the container during fermentation. It is best to use a wide-mouth plastic bucket for the container, because the plastic bucket does not rust and the wide-mouth access is convenient. It can also be mixed and retted according to a certain proportion to produce NPK compound fertilizer. Fermentation time depends on temperature. The temperature is high and the fermentation is fast. Summer is a good time to ferment fertilizer. Judging whether the fertilizer is fermented well depends on whether it smells bad, whether it has a hard core like soybeans, whether the fermented fertilizer smells bad and whether it has a sticky feeling. This fertilizer can be used. [upward]
6. How to add base fertilizer to Clivia?
Answer: Adding base fertilizer means adding some fried or cooked oil crops with shells at the bottom of the flowerpot when changing pots and soil, such as hemp seeds, perilla seeds, sunflower seeds, castor seeds and bone meal particles. Commonly known as solid fertilizer. The method of adding base fertilizer is to spread a layer of soil on the bottom of the basin, evenly spread a layer of raw materials on the soil, then cover it with a layer of soil, and then directly plant flowers on it, thus completing the whole process of adding base. Remember not to let the raw materials directly contact the roots. Adding base fertilizer is characterized by long-term uniform fertilizer effect, and the fertility slowly seeps out from the cracks in the shell of oil crops and is absorbed by the flower root system. The method of adding base fertilizer is generally used to change soil in autumn. [upward]
7. How to add edge fertilizer to Clivia?
A: The raw materials of the so-called edge fertilizer are the same as the base fertilizer, except that the edge fertilizer is to dig up a circle of soil at the edge of the flowerpot after planting flowers, and spread the oil crops with shells evenly on the edge of the flowerpot instead of directly contacting the flowerpot. Put a layer of soil in the middle, don't be next to the fresh stems of artificial flowers, and don't bury them too deep. Don't touch the roots directly, and then cover them with a layer of soil. The characteristic of edge fertilizer is that solid fertilizer does not directly contact the root system, but slowly penetrates from top to bottom, which can be used for soil replacement in spring and autumn. Family orchids can be cultivated by adding base fertilizer or edge fertilizer to prevent the smell of water fertilizer from polluting the home environment. [upward]
8. How does Clivia apply liquid fertilizer?
A: Clivia is a kind of fertilizer-loving flower, especially in the peak season of spring, autumn and winter. Must be topdressing and watering. The topdressing method is to dilute the retted fertilizer stock solution with 10-25 times of water. Top dressing method: one is to pour the diluted fertilizer water directly into the basin. The steps are as follows: firstly, dilute the fertilizer stock solution by 10- 15 times, water the soil in the flowerpot once to make it moist, then directly pour the diluted water into the pot, and then spray the water into the pot, thus completing the whole process of topdressing. The other is fertilization. Also known as sitting fat. The steps are: diluting the fertilizer stock solution by 20-25 times. Put it into a big container, soak the flowerpot directly in fertilizer water, water the flowerpot repeatedly with a spoon until it is thoroughly poured, then take it out and water it once in the flowerpot forest, and dry it to complete the whole process of fertilization. The former method is suitable for large-scale topdressing of water and fertilizer, while the latter method is time-consuming and laborious, and is suitable for small-scale or family cultivation and flower pit cultivation of some high-grade and key cultivated varieties. [upward]
9. What is the reason why Clivia doesn't bloom when it is mature?
A: Clivia doesn't bloom when it matures for many reasons. First, it has not been changed for a long time, and elements such as phosphate fertilizer in the soil are seriously insufficient. Second, rotten roots lead to malnutrition and lead to no flowering. Third, drought and water shortage lead to non-flowering. The improvement method is that mature orchids must be changed into soil and poured into pots, and more scaly fertilizers such as bone powder and fish scales should be added. Adult orchids with rotten roots are mainly cultivated, and more sand or fine slag is mixed in the soil to restore the roots as soon as possible. If there is a long-term drought and water shortage, it must be soaked in the whole basin to prevent the illusion that a large amount of water gushes out from the drought cracks and the soil is still dry and wet. As long as the above practices are adopted, mature orchids will certainly produce gorgeous flowers. [upward]
10. What is the reason for Clivia's arrow? What should I do?
A: It is a common problem for orchid growers to be shot by an arrow when an adult orchid blooms. The so-called arrow clip means that the shaft of the arrow is not drawn out and the flower is open, which is called an arrow clip. There are many reasons for catching arrows, and different measures should be taken to improve them. First, the temperature difference is small, especially for Clivia cultivated at home. The temperature is almost the same day and night, and the temperature difference is only 2-3 degrees, which is not conducive to drawing arrows. The improved method is to put it on the windowsill during the day and 5- 10 degrees below the windowsill temperature at night. This creates an artificial environment with a small temperature difference, and the arrow can be pulled out. Second, the water is big and fat, which makes the root system in a state of hypoxia, and fat is easy to hurt the root. The improvement method is to dump the soil, wash the roots to dry, wash the roots with clear water and dry in the shade for 4-5 hours, and then put on new nutrient soil, and the arrow will come out in a few days. Third, rotten roots and withered roots are caused by long-term water tightness. The improvement method is to replace it with water-permeable new soil and cultivate new roots. When the new roots grow, the sword will be pulled out. Other reasons, such as high temperature and low temperature, can be improved by taking the right medicine. At present, there is no good way to solve the phenomenon that the physiological defects of Eupatorium odoratum and Eupatorium odoratum produce arrows, which is a new research topic of Clivia. [upward]
1 1. What is the cause of Clivia's rotten roots and what should I do?
A: Clivia root rot is a common phenomenon. What caused it? First, there is a lot of water in high temperature environment, which makes the roots soak in water for a long time, leading to hypoxia and root rot. Second, hypertrophy burns roots, the concentration of water and fertilizer is too high or the solid fertilizer is applied too much, and burning roots leads to rotten roots. Third, the pot soil is not changed for a long time, which makes the soil hardened and airtight, leading to rotten roots. Fourth, excessive watering after a long drought leads to root rot. The fifth is to use raw soil and undecomposed leaves to ferment in the pot to generate heat to burn roots or poor soil selection to produce rotten roots. No matter what causes the rotten roots, corresponding measures must be taken in time. (1) is to remove rotten roots; (2) cleaning the roots, cleaning with potassium permanganate and sterilizing. Purple liquid medicine, charcoal ash and plant ash can also be used. It is necessary to smear the wound, change the soil to control the watering amount, and do not add fertilizer. It will take half a month to grow new roots. [upward]
12. How about spraying water on the leaves of Clivia?
A: The leaves of Clivia are important organs of photosynthesis. If there is dust or dirt on the leaves, it is not conducive to photosynthesis. Spraying water on the leaves regularly can clean the dust and dirt on the leaves and keep them moist. Especially in summer, the leaves of Clivia should be sprayed with water every day, and the sprayed water should have a certain pressure of fine fog, so that the leaves are dewy. Spraying water on the leaves can reduce water evaporation, reduce the temperature of leaves and prevent the leaves from growing white. But don't spray water on the arrows and flowers when Clivia draws arrows and blooms, in case the arrows rot and the pollen is washed away, which will not bear fruit. Family orchids can spray water on the leaves many times a day to create a humid environment and help Clivia thrive. [upward]
13. What should I do if the leaves of Clivia are irregular?
A: Clivia leaves are very phototropic. If the management is not good, it is easy to skew, which will affect the appreciation of Clivia. One way to correct the skew of blades is to directly clamp the skewed blades and straight blades on the plastic clips of clothes drying with soft paper, which can be corrected after a period of time. Second, use opaque tin black paper or cardboard, fold it into 1/2 blade width according to the blade length, and fix it on the blade with hairpins or paper clips. The blade leans over there and is fixed there. After a few days, the blade will recover. Pay attention to observe at any time to prevent overcorrection. Third, Clivia looks from the front. Some leaves are spaced apart, while others are next to each other. You can make a set of boards out of cardboard. According to the number of leaves and leaves, open some equally spaced grooves and stick the floor tiles in them. After the above treatment and shaping, Clivia can look at a line from the side and face the ideal flower shape like a fan. [upward]
14. How to preserve the collected pollen?
Answer: the collected pollen, that is, the anther at the top of the stamen is picked after touching the pollen, to prepare for the artificial pollination of the pistil of your own flower. So how to preserve and store the collected pollen? First, prepare a penicillin bottle, lift the rubber cap, brush it clean, dry it, roll it into a bottle stopper with toilet paper, clamp the root of the near stamen with tweezers or hemostatic forceps, and roll it into the middle of the bottle stopper to expose a stamen stem. Then plug the bottle with pollen and put it in a refrigerator or a cool and dry place, and control the temperature at 3℃ ~ 10℃ above zero. If you want to preserve precious pollen every other year, you can soak the outside of the cork with melted paraffin to prevent ventilation. Then put it in the freezer of the refrigerator for one year, and use it the same in the second year. You can also sit on the fruit. [upward]
15. How to choose the best time for pollination? How does Clivia pollinate?
A: After the female bud blooms for 3-4 days, the top of the trident on the stigma begins to secrete mucus, which is easy to stick to pollen. This is the best time for pollination. Pollination time is generally selected at 9- 10 am and 2-3 pm. Because at this time, the temperature in the flower cellar and indoor is rising, the sunshine is sufficient and the climate is dry, which is beneficial to pollination effect. Use tweezers to spot the collected pollen on the pistil of the plant to be pollinated, that is, on the trident stigma, or roll the pollen with paper roll, and see that the trident stigma is stained with pollen. To be on the safe side, the prize will be awarded the next day. [upward]
16. How to control and prolong the flowering period of Clivia?
A: Generally, there are two purposes to control and extend the flowering period. One is to meet the needs of pollination. For example, if you have a good and excellent variety that can be used as a parent, you should make the first move. However, many female orchids that need this as a male parent have not been marked. In this case, it is necessary to control the male parent first, delay its flowering period by cooling and dimming, and wait for the female parent to get an arrow. On the contrary, it is necessary to increase the temperature and temperature difference, strengthen the light, and make it bloom at the same time as the male parent, so as to achieve the purpose of using flour. Another purpose is to use the above methods to make the flowering period open when needed. For example, it is open on New Year's Day, Spring Festival or other flower show festivals or festivals to add festive atmosphere. At present, the method of controlling flowering period is realized by changing temperature and illumination time. The flowering period of Clivia can be prolonged by prolonging the flowering period, lowering the temperature and reducing the illumination time. [upward]
17. What accessories should be used to breed Clivia?
A: There are many auxiliary materials for the propagation of Clivia, such as fine sand, fine slag, white pine and Korean pine sawdust, larch pine needles and so on. All these methods can be used, but practice has proved that the best method is to adopt two layers and three auxiliary materials, namely, fluidized bed furnace fine slag, white pine or Korean pine sawdust and larch leaves. Grinding the fine slag into small particles or slightly larger particles, mixing with sawdust in half, and keeping larch pine needles. Loosen the needle at the bottom of 3/4 of the total height of planting tools, and put the mixed auxiliary materials of slag and sawdust at the top 1/4. Then, put the seeds into the mixed auxiliary materials, the upper end of the seeds is parallel to the auxiliary materials, and sprinkle a thin layer of auxiliary materials on it to complete the planting. Plant spacing should not be too large or too dense. Generally about 5 mm, this method is characterized by fast germination. When the bud grows to a certain length, it will plunge into the pine needle nutrient soil to absorb nutrients. The seedlings are strong and the transplanting time can be delayed, which is beneficial to management.