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How to reshape cherry trees with small crown and sparse layers?
(1) coronary structure

It has a trunk and a central leadership trunk, about 50 cm high. The whole tree has 5-6 main branches, which are distributed in two layers. The first layer has three main branches with an opening angle of 60 ~ 80, and each main branch is planted with 2 ~ 3 lateral branches and several bearing branch groups, and the lateral branches are alternately distributed on both sides of the main branch with an interval of about 30 cm; The second layer has 2 ~ 3 main branches, the opening angle is 45 ~ 50, and the interlayer spacing is 1.2 ~ 1.5 m, bearing branches. This tree shape is suitable for plant spacing of 3 m× 4 m or 2.5 m× 4 m, and sweet cherry varieties with strong dryness and obvious stratification.

(2) Plastic method

After planting, the stem was fixed at about 60 cm, and 3 ~ 5 strong branches sprouted in the spring of that year, among which the one with high position and strong growth grew upright as the central stem, and then three branches with reasonable distribution and large branching angle were selected from the remaining new shoots as the main branches, and the rest branches were used as auxiliary branches or cultivation branches. When each main branch is 40 ~ 50 cm long, it is moderately enucleated. Generally, 2 ~ 3 new shoots can be produced after coring. The top branch with vigorous growth is used as the extension head, and other new branches on the main branch are cultured as side branches or fruiting branches. When the new shoots as lateral branches are about 30 cm long and the central trunk is about 60 cm long, the branches of the main branch except the extended branches are cultured into fruiting branches. Depending on the growth position and space, the new shoots should be properly cored every 20 cm or 30 cm, and the coring can be taken 2 ~ 3 times a year. Branches on the back are pulled to make them grow or droop horizontally, or they can be thinned. In July and August, the main branches should be pulled to a suitable angle. After pruning in summer, annual trees have the first layer of main branches and lateral branches. When pruning in winter, the branches protruding from the main branches should be cut short, the branches with whorled terminal buds should be topped, and the branches standing on the back should be thinned. If the central trunk has reached the height of the second layer, it can be cut short at the height of meristem branches. If it doesn't reach the height, it won't be cut. When budding in the second year, when the amount of branches between the central trunk layers is insufficient, ring cutting or bud grafting can be used to promote budding. If the main branches and side branches are not enough, they can also be carved for coring. When the central trunk grows to the height of the second floor, the second floor main branch is produced by removing the core. From early May to early June, the top branches and non-backbone branches can be twisted, or continuous slight enucleation can be carried out to promote the formation of flower buds, and the second layer of main branches can be opened from July to August. The new branches of the extension branches of each main branch continue to core in the same way as in the first year, increasing the number of branches. At this point, the shaping of the tree is basically completed. If the crown grows rapidly and there are many branches in the first year, chemical control and other methods can be implemented in the spring and summer of the second year to promote the formation of flower buds. After molding, the top is not stopped, and then coring is carried out after the results are obtained.

If it is bud planting, in the first spring, when the new buds grow to 75cm height, pull out the seedlings and dry them in the sun to promote the growth of the new buds. The shaping method is the same as above, and it will take shape after half a year.

Sparse layer shape of small crown