The advantage of potted blueberries is to enjoy flowers and fruits, and to gain something from experience.

First, the purchase time and management of potted blueberry seedlings, potted seedlings can be planted all year round, and the best time is to buy them from autumn to the next spring before germination. The seedlings in this period are easy to transport, and the management and planting are relatively simple. After planting in autumn, a small amount of flowers and fruits can be produced in the second year and normal flowers and fruits can be produced in the third year. After the fifth year, blueberries can be potted at home and managed properly, and the fruiting period can last for 35 years.

Second, the selection of tree species in potted blueberry nursery: Rabbit-eye blueberry, sand culture and O 'Neill, which are not self-pollinated, must be equipped with pollination trees to bear full fruits. It is not easy to choose this variety for family potted plants, shrubs are only suitable for outdoor planting in the north, and other varieties can be used for family potted plants.

Third, the soil needs blueberries and likes acidic, soft, loose, breathable and organic-rich soil. Generally, the soil pH value is 4.5 ~ 5.5, and the soil organic matter content is generally 8% ~ 12%. Family potted plants can buy humus common in flower markets. According to their own conditions, add humus moss or peat, sawdust, rotten pine bark and other organic matter, and add sulfur.

Fourthly, it is recommended to use a well-ventilated earthen basin, followed by a sand basin, and then a plastic basin. It is not recommended to use a pottery basin or a porcelain basin. Because blueberries are fibrous roots and shallow roots, large pots are not needed, and deep pots are not allowed. 15cm pots are recommended for young seedlings, 25cm pots for finished seedlings, and large pots are not allowed for young seedlings.

Verb (abbreviation of verb) A very important factor to ensure the fruiting of potted blueberries is to ensure that blueberries can withstand low temperature dormancy below 7.2℃ in winter, and the lowest temperature that can be tolerated varies with varieties. For example, as a flower viewing, there is no need for low temperature restrictions.

Sixth, watering management Blueberry roots are shallow and sensitive to water shortage. Always keep the basin soil moist and free of water, which is different in different growing seasons of blueberries. In the vegetative growth stage, the most suitable water condition can always be maintained, which can promote the plants to be strong. However, in the fruit development stage and before the fruit matures, the water supply must be reduced appropriately to prevent the rapid growth of nutrition from competing with the fruit for nutrients. After the fruit is harvested, the most suitable water supply can be restored to promote the vegetative growth. Reduce the water supply from Mid-Autumn Festival to late autumn, so as to enter the dormant period in time. In order to keep the acidity of the soil, it is suggested that the dosage is 3 ~ 5 degrees vinegar, 500 ml is applied every month, and half a tablespoon of vinegar is added.

Seven, fertilization Blueberries are oligotrophic plants. Compared with other fruit trees, the contents of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium in trees are very low. Because of this feature, blueberries should be specially protected against excessive fertilization to avoid fertilizer damage. When blueberry is planted, organic matter has been mixed into the soil, so the fertilization of blueberry mainly refers to topdressing. Phosphorus pentoxide and ammonium sulfate are suitable fertilizers for potted blueberries. Blueberry excessive fertilization is easy to cause tree damage or even death of the whole plant. Therefore, the amount of fertilization should be cautious, depending on soil fertility and tree nutrition, not less than more! In addition, blueberries cannot be applied with nitrate fertilizers, such as ammonium nitrate and potassium nitrate.

Eight, potted blueberry pruning period can be divided into winter pruning and summer pruning, strictly speaking, dormancy pruning and growth pruning. Young trees that have just been planted need to cut off buds and too thin branches. For strong branches, it is generally necessary to prune them to varying degrees. In the first growing season of survival, cut as little or no as possible, and spread the crown and branches at the fastest speed. When the first three young trees are pruned in winter, the weak branches, drooping branches, horizontal branches, cross branches, over-dense branches and overlapping branches in the crown are mainly thinned. You can cut off the bud at the top of the branch a little shorter. After germination in spring, some new shoots should be selectively erased as soon as possible to strengthen the growth potential of the retained new shoots. After entering the full fruit stage, the crown size has basically reached the requirements, so we should start to control the further expansion of the crown and leave the limited space for more vigorous branches or branches. The principle is to remove the weak and retain the strong. In addition to weak branches, diseased branches, dead branches, cross branches and adjacent overlapping branches are also the objects to be refined.