The propagation mode of Sedum Babel is mainly ramet or cutting propagation, and cutting propagation is the main mode. In the process of reproduction, we should strictly control the temperature and humidity and do more management.
Management of Sedum Babel
land
Sedum babao is drought-tolerant and barren, and can grow normally in saline-alkali land. In family maintenance, choose soil with good drainage and no pests and diseases.
illuminate
Sedum Babel likes strong light and is a little tolerant of shade, but try not to shade it. Too low light will cause ineffective growth.
temperature
Sedum babesii can withstand low temperature and can safely overwinter at -22℃ in winter. But the optimum growth temperature is 15~25℃. The temperature at night is 15- 18℃, and the temperature during the day is 24-26℃, in which the plants will grow stronger.
water
Water and loosen the soil in time according to the soil and weather conditions. At the beginning of June, the sown seedlings began to grow. Pay attention to water control, water 1 time every two weeks to keep the soil moist.
Fertilize soil or land
July-August is the flowering period, so we should provide them with sufficient nutrients and apply quick-acting fertilizers (human excrement and urine, nitrogen fertilizer) 2-3 times at intervals.
decrease
Don't prune before winter, just prune some dead branches on the ground the next spring.
Eliminate pests and diseases
When the soil is too wet and watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot, so it should be drained in time or controlled with chemicals.
In addition, pests and diseases will harm leaves and roots and affect growth, so it is necessary to check them in time. Once found, it should be removed immediately or washed with soapy water. Pesticides can be used in severe cases.
Cultivation and management techniques of magnolia tree
Magnolia Officinalis, also known as Magnolia Officinalis, Yutangchun and Hua Mu Tree, is a deciduous tree of Magnoliaceae. Native to Anhui, Zhejiang, Hunan, Hubei, Guizhou, Guangdong, Shanxi and other regions, it is also widely cultivated in Beijing and the south. Magnolia grandiflora is an important ornamental tree species in the garden in early spring, with white color and fragrant flowers. Deeply loved by people. Planting begonia, winter jasmine, peony, osmanthus, etc., has the meaning of auspiciousness and wealth, and has the reputation of wealth in spring. Common ornamental trees in the same genus
There are about 90 species of Magnoliaceae, and about 30 species in China. Common species and cultivated varieties in gardens are: Huang Yulan (Magnolia. Huang Fei), Magnolia officinalis (Magnolia officinalis), Magnolia officinalis (Magnolia officinalis), Magnolia officinalis (Lindl. ) soul. -Bode. ) and magnolia officinalis (magnolia variety. Purpose.
Selection of planting environment
Magnolia likes light, young trees are more resistant to shade, but not to strong light and western sun. Too strong light or western sun is easy to burn trees. Magnolia grandiflora can be planted in the shade of the side, but it will not grow well under big trees or in the shade, with thin trees, sparse branches, yellow leaves, no flowers or small flowers; Magnolia grandiflora is cold-resistant and can withstand a short-term low temperature of -20℃, but it should not be planted in the tuyere, otherwise it will be easy to pull weeds, and it can survive the winter safely in the open field in the lee and sunny areas of Beijing without winding and other measures. Magnolia likes fertile, moist and well-drained slightly acidic soil, but it can also grow normally in mild saline-alkali soil (pH 8.2, salt content 0.2%). Magnolia grandiflora is a fleshy root and is afraid of water accumulation. Planting in low-lying areas is easy to rot and lead to death. Magnolia grandiflora has good soil permeability, but it grows poorly in clay, and grows best in sandy loam and yellow sandy soil.
Excavation and planting of seedlings
Magnolia grandiflora is not resistant to transplantation, and it is generally ideal to transplant it before germination 10 ~ 15 days or when the flowers have just withered and the leaves are not unfolded. 4-5 days before emergence, watering the seedlings once can not only make the plants absorb enough water, but also help the plants to survive after planting, and help the soil to form balls when digging the seedlings. When digging, the root system should be damaged as little as possible, and the wound with broken root must be smooth to facilitate wound healing. In addition, it should be noted that no matter what size of seedlings, soil balls should be brought, and the diameter of soil balls should be 8 ~ 10 times of the diameter of seedlings, and it should not be too small, so it has no protective effect on roots. After the soil ball is dug, it should be tied with straw rope to prevent it from loosening during transportation.
Before planting, the tree pit should be dug. The tree pit should be big but not small, and the tree pit is too small, which is not only troublesome to plant, but also not conducive to root growth. The bottom soil of the tree pit is preferably mature soil. If the soil is too sticky or the pH value and salt content exceed the standard, it should be replaced or improved. The permeability of cultivated soil must be good, the soil fertility must be sufficient, and sufficient nutrients should be provided to plants. There should be no impurities such as bricks, tiles and lime in the soil. When planting, the depth should be appropriate. Generally speaking, the planting depth can be slightly higher than the original soil ball by 2 to 3 cm. If it is too deep, it is easy to have stuffy buds. If it is too shallow, the roots will be exposed and easily blown down by the wind. Large-scale seedlings should be supported in time, and triangular support can be used to prevent them from being blown by the wind; After planting, water immediately, water twice after 3 days, water three times after 5 days, and then enter normal management. If the seedlings have buds, they should be cut off to prevent flowering and fruiting from consuming a lot of nutrients and affecting the survival rate.
Water and fertilizer management
Magnolia grandiflora is neither waterlogging tolerant nor drought tolerant, so the principle of liking wet and fearing waterlogging should be strictly followed in cultivation and maintenance. In the process of cultivation and maintenance, many people think that Magnolia grandiflora is afraid of waterlogging and should be watered as little as possible. This understanding and practice is very wrong, because Magnolia grandiflora is afraid of waterlogging, which does not mean that it likes drought. It likes humid environment itself, so it is necessary to master the degree that the soil should not be too dry or too wet in water management. After many years of cultivation practice, the author thinks that the soil should be kept moist and free of water during cultivation. In the process of conservation, the newly planted magnolia should keep the soil moist, which is also an important measure to ensure its survival rate. It is essential to water Magnolia grandiflora under normal management, such as turning green water in early spring and antifreeze water in early winter, and it should be watered thoroughly. Water can be watered once a month in the growing season, and water should be stopped in the rainy season. Drainage should be done in time after rain to prevent root rot caused by accumulated water. In addition, it is necessary to loosen the soil and moisturize it in time. It should be noted that irrigation should be carried out in time in rainy season and drought. Lack of water not only affects the vegetative growth of plants, but also causes the buds to fall off or shrink, which affects the flowering in the next year.
In addition, in the case of poor site conditions, especially in the environment with large hardened area and small green area, and in the case of continuous high temperature and dry weather, water should be sprayed on the leaves while pouring the roots, and attention should be paid to the degree of atomization when spraying water. The higher the degree of atomization, the better the effect. The best spraying time is before 8: 00 a.m. and after 6: 00 p.m., and it can't be done at noon when the light is strong. For Magnolia grandiflora suffering from waterlogging, it must be rescued at the first time. First, the accumulated water should be removed in time. Second, give trees shade, especially to prevent sunburn. Third, cut off some leaves and buds.
Magnolia likes to apply fertilizer. Besides applying base fertilizer when planting, it will be applied every year. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plants grow vigorously, the leaves are green and plump, not only with many buds, but also with large flowers, long flowering period and fragrant fragrance. Magnolia grandiflora is fertilized four times a year, that is, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer is applied once before flowering, which can not only improve the flowering quality, but also be beneficial to spring growth; Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied once after flowering, which can increase plant growth and expand nutrient area; Applying phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer once in July and August can promote flower bud differentiation and improve the lignification degree of new branches; Before winter, combined with watering winter water, apply a decomposed and fermented ring fertilizer. This kind of fertilizer can not only improve the activity of soil, but also effectively raise the ground temperature, and the amount of fertilizer should be large rather than small. In addition, if the saplings planted in that year are not growing well, they can be sprayed with 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, which can effectively enhance the tree vigor.
Overwintering management
Although Magnolia grandiflora can tolerate the low temperature of -20℃, overwintering management should be strengthened for small-sized Magnolia grandiflora and Magnolia grandiflora planted that year. In addition to pouring enough frozen water after defoliation in the middle and late months of 165438+ 10, the pit should be covered with grass, covered with plastic film or ridged, and the tree can be painted white to prevent defoliation in spring. Magnolia grandiflora planted for many years can only be treated with antifreeze and painting.
Eliminate pests and diseases
1. Diseases Magnolia grandiflora is a tree species with strong disease resistance. The main diseases are anthracnose, yellowing and leaf burning.
(1) Symptoms and laws of anthracnose: Anthracnose mainly harms the leaves of Magnolia grandiflora. Irregular lesions often occur at the tip or edge of leaves, or nearly round lesions are attached to the leaves. The initial lesion was brown and waterlogged, with small black particles on the surface and dark brown ridges on the edge, which was clearly defined from the healthy parts. The pathogen of anthracnose overwinters on trees or fallen leaves with mycelium, and produces conidia in the following spring, which is spread to plants through wind and rain. Spores germinate in water droplets and invade leaf tissues, causing diseases. The high temperature and high humidity period in summer is the peak of the disease. If the water and fertilizer management of plants is not in place, it is easy to happen when the growth declines.
Control methods: strengthen water and fertilizer management, enhance tree vigor and improve disease resistance; Remove diseased leaves in time, and remove fallen leaves in late autumn for centralized burning; At the onset of the disease, spraying 800 times of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder or 500 times of 70% thiram anthrax every 10 day for 3 ~ 4 times continuously can effectively control the disease. Specific drugs: osmosis, kresoxim-methyl, Amisi, etc. It has special effects on diseases caused by fungi.
(2) Etiological disease symptoms and regularity: First, the leaflets fade, chlorophyll gradually decreases, the leaves are yellow or light yellow, and the veins are still green. After the disease spread, the whole leaves turned yellow, then gradually turned white, and the plant growth gradually declined and eventually died.
Prevention and treatment: Yellowing disease is a physiological disease, which is mainly caused by excessive soil viscosity, high pH value and insufficient iron supply. Roots can be irrigated with 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution, leaves can also be sprayed with 0. 1% ferrous sulfate solution, and more farmyard manure can be applied.
(3) Symptoms and laws of leaf burn: At the initial stage, plant leaves were burned, and then the leaves gradually shriveled and dried up. When the disease is serious, the new leaves can't spread out, and a large number of leaves dry up and fall off. Poor site conditions, large hardened area and small green area; Long-term high temperature, drought and excessive light; This disease often occurs when the soil is alkalized or the flowers are too large.
Prevention and control methods: increase watering times to keep the soil moist; Apply more organic fertilizer to enhance the tree vigor and improve the stress resistance of plants; Paint the tree white or wrap it to dry.
2. The main pests that harm Mulan are: giant salamander, frost moth, red spider, longicorn beetle and so on. Occasionally there are underground pests such as grubs. If there are pests, the giant salamander can be killed with 80% dichlorvos EC 800 times solution or 50% cartap EC 800 times solution. Kill moths with 800 times of Bt emulsion or 800 times of 50% chlorpyrifos EC; Kill red spider with 800 times solution of 40% dicofol or 2000 times solution of 5% nisolone; Kill longicorn beetles with 500 times green liquid; Root irrigation with 50% zinc-phosphorus emulsion 1000 times solution to kill grubs.
Dressing and shaping
Because of the poor healing ability of Magnolia grandiflora branches, they are generally not pruned unless necessary. If the tree shape is unsightly or chaotic, the branches of pests and diseases, dead branches, drooping branches, over-dense branches and useless branches should be thinned out to facilitate ventilation and light transmission of plants and make the tree shape beautiful. Pruning time should be carried out before the leaves open in early spring. Magnolia grandiflora is generally not cut short to avoid cutting off flower buds. If pruning is needed, Bordeaux solution should be applied to the larger wound to prevent bacterial infection.
Cultivation and management techniques of longevity flower
Longevity flower is a succulent plant with plump and bright leaves, forming low clumps and being green all year round; Small and exquisite plants, compact plant shape, dense flowers and strong disease resistance; Like warm and humid, drought-resistant, light-resistant, long flowering period, easy to cultivate, suitable for indoor decoration in winter and outdoor decoration in summer, with excellent ornamental effect.
In foreign countries, longevity flowers are not only indoor ornamental potted flowers, but also widely used in outdoor landscapes. At present, this concept has been gradually accepted by domestic landscape designers and applied to landscape sketches. Under modern management conditions, the yield of longevity flowers can reach 100 pots/year square meter, and the output per unit area is higher than that of big potted flowers such as Anthurium andraeanum and pineapple.
In recent years, the introduced double-petal longevity flower has been successfully introduced by Beijing Wuzhou Xiangyuan Agricultural Development Co., Ltd., and has been recognized by the market for its unique charm of rose shape, becoming a new flower variety with great value and development potential. Wuzhou Xiangyuan Company keeps bringing forth the old and bringing forth the new. In addition to the mainstream red series, pink, purple, yellow, light green and other varieties have been introduced. In order to improve the planting quality of longevity flowers in China, the company has been communicating with foreign suppliers for many years to solve the problem of seedling planting of longevity flowers, and summarized the key points of planting management of longevity flowers.
Planting technique
The medium-sized peat is mixed with lime, fertilizer and clay.
The specifications of standard basin cutting are 9 cm, 10 cm or 1 1 cm.
Water needs to be moderate to avoid overgrowth of plants.
Fertilize soil or land
Apply compound fertilizer, add calcium and water, and the pH value is 5.5-5.8. It should be noted that water samples should be analyzed before fertilization. Check the pH value and EC value of the substrate in the basin once a week. The pH value should be 5.0 to 6.0, and the EC value should be 1.8 to 2.5.
CCC was used in the early stage of plant growth and B9 was used in the later stage.
temperature
The suitable temperature for rooting is 22℃, and the suitable temperature for plant growth thereafter is 65438 09℃. When the outdoor light is too strong, it is necessary to use ventilation equipment to reduce the temperature. In addition, the temperature should not exceed 25℃, otherwise high temperature will weaken the effect of short-day treatment.
Shading and artificial lighting
In summer, outdoor high temperature is easy to make plant leaves turn red. When the light intensity is greater than 65,000 lux, it must be shaded. In winter, in order to shorten the growth time of plants for a week or two and make them form more inflorescences, artificial lighting is needed. It is required that the light intensity should reach 3000 lux, and generally, the sunshine length should not be less than 18 hours/day before short-day treatment.
The relative humidity should reach 75% to reduce the harm of germs.
Eliminate pests and diseases
The pests of longevity flower mainly include aphids, thrips occidentalis, scale insects, cyclamen mites, leaf roller moths, mushroom mosquito larvae and so on.
aphid
It will cause serious damage to longevity flowers, especially in winter and early spring. If left unchecked, the number of aphids will increase dramatically. Using aphid parasitoids and wasps to control aphids is better than chemical control, and the key to biological control lies in early detection and timely control.
Western flower thrips
The amount of damage is relatively small, but attention should be paid to it. Thrips like to invade the soft tissues of growing plants. It is suggested that the number of thrips should be monitored by armyworm every week. Even if a small number of adults appear, attention should be paid to controlling thrips.
scale insect
It is difficult to eradicate axillary buds and growing points in greenhouse, and the key lies in early monitoring. A small amount of scale insects can also cause considerable losses. Generally speaking, as long as it is invaded by this insect, plants can no longer be sold. Once the scale insects are found in the greenhouse, it is suggested to treat them on the spot to prevent their spread. Scale insects can spread in the greenhouse by means of infected plants, operators' hands and clothes. After being found, all activities in the infected area should be stopped immediately until the infected plants are removed and the seedbeds and walkways are properly treated.
Cyclamen mite
Cyclamen mites don't like warm weather, so they seldom do harm in summer, mainly in winter. The main harmful symptoms include growth retardation, growth point deformation and abnormal bud discoloration. To identify cyclamen mites, you need at least 20 times the microscope. Because they are often hidden in the bud or in the young leaves around the growing point, it is necessary to open the bud and check several places.
Leaf roller moth
The leaf roller moth is the larva of the moth, and the leaves will wrap it into a very distinctive form. If you neglect the inspection during the outbreak of pests, the harm will be quite serious.
Mushroom mosquito larva
Boreholes often appear in cuttings and stems of seedlings on diseased plants infected with pine rot fungi, which need to be controlled by suitable soil fungicides.
Fungal diseases of longevity flower include powdery mildew, gray mold, Rhizopus, lacquer mold, stem rot and pythium.
powdery mildew
The most serious fungal disease that harms longevity flower. Infection with powdery mildew is difficult to identify, because when its iconic white villous mold appears, the disease is already very serious. In most cases, the visible symptoms are limited to local growth retardation, deformity of leaves and growing points, deformation of flowers, and dark gray scars on leaf nodes and their protruding stems. Powdery mildew on longevity flowers is mostly phytochemicals, so chemical control is difficult to work.
gray mold
In winter, the leaves and stems of longevity flowers will rot. Keeping the leaves dry and the flowerpot well ventilated can effectively prevent this from happening, but it should be noted that many botrytis cinerea will leave obvious spots on the leaves.
Rhizopus
This kind of bacteria occurs in a warm and humid environment, looking for infection in thin and soft tissues. If the environment is too warm and humid, Rhizopus will often occur during transportation.
Lacquer spot fungus
In the process of longevity flower reproduction, harmful plants will appear at the same time as mushroom mosquitoes. Too dense plants, lack of ventilation and warm and humid microclimate between plants may all lead to such bacterial outbreaks.
Stem rot
There are many fungi that cause long-lived stem rot, such as Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Rhizoctonia, Cladosporium and so on. Generally speaking, these fungi can be found on infected plants, but the most common is to drill holes in stems with mushrooms and mosquitoes, and at the same time cause damage. Therefore, it is necessary to control both germs and pests.
Pythium
The root system of longevity flower is very sensitive to unreasonable watering, and it will cause problems if it is too dry or too wet. According to experience, pythium mostly appears as a subordinate disease under harsh conditions. Longevity flowers can live on a small number of roots. If the root system environment is not good, plants will only grow a part of the root system, making pythium easier to invade.
The virus harm of longevity flower includes longevity flower mosaic virus, Impatiens necrotic spot virus, macular virus, high cold plate latent virus, Kara virus and so on.
Longevity mosaic virus (Green Island virus)
This is the most common longevity virus, which appears widely in modern hybrid varieties. This virus only appears in plants with bad growth environment and serious infection, and the leaves show dark green mosaic spots, which will inhibit the growth of diseased plants in severe cases. At present, there is no feasible immune detection method to prevent and treat this virus, and aphids may be the carriers of this virus.
Impatiens necrotic spot virus
This is a variant of tomato spot wilt virus, which can cause a series of damage to longevity flowers, sometimes even due to mistakes in production. It is spread by Frankliniella occidentalis.
Macular virus can cause yellowing and necrotic spots, and there is no effective immunoassay method at present. In the cultivation of longevity flowers, once infected with this virus, the plants will be completely destroyed.
The latent virus of high cold plate has no symptoms at all, but it can be detected by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.
The symptom of this virus is to produce light green to yellow mosaic spots on leaves, which can be detected.
Physiological diseases of longevity flower mainly include spraying injury, flower injury, short-day injury, ethylene injury, adverse reactions, variation and so on.
Spraying drug injury
Some pesticides will cause toxic damage to the flowers and leaves of longevity flowers, and many EC components will corrode the cuticle of the leaves and petals of longevity flowers, eventually leading to the fading of flowers and leaving spots on the leaves.
There are many reasons for the flower damage of longevity flower, and the continuous high humidity is the main reason. In the early stage of planting, supplementing appropriate calcium ions and keeping the activity of plants as much as possible can prevent this from happening. Some sensitive and fragile varieties will show special symptoms under unsatisfactory conditions.
Short-term injury
Longevity flowers need to be shaded for at least 6 hours every day during planting. Even in the long-term sunshine treatment, long-term dark exposure will lead to the yellowing of healthy leaves.
Ethylene damage
Mature fruits stored in storerooms or retail stores will produce ethylene. When exposed to extremely low concentration of ethylene, longevity flowers will lose flowers or degenerate buds within a few days, so more attention should be paid to transportation, storage or display. In addition, the failure of CO2 generator in greenhouse will cause the same problem.
Adversity response
The adverse reactions of longevity flowers can be caused by a series of reasons, including water, light, temperature and so on. Under mild conditions, the mature leaves of plants will fade; When the environment is extremely harsh, ethylene begins to be produced inside the growing point, which leads to typical symptoms of ethylene poisoning, plant growth stops completely, the growing point turns red and buds degenerate.
Mutations are all caused by genetic defects.
Cultivation and management techniques of tuberose
Breeding: tuberose divides the ball in spring. Large bulbs can bloom in the same year, and the diameter of large bulbs for cut flower production should be above 2.5 cm. After 1-2 years of culture, the small ball can grow into a big flowering ball. Cultivation: tuberose is usually planted in April-May, and bulbs are wet treated at 25℃-30℃ before planting 10 day-15 day. The big and small balls should be planted separately from the old balls that bloomed last year. The row spacing of large bulbs is 20 cm and 25 cm (or 30 cm), and the small bulbs are 10 cm and 15 cm or more dense; The planting depth is slightly shallower than other bulbs, but it also depends on the cultivation purpose, soil properties and bulb size. Usually, deep and long balls are lightly pumped, that is, deep planting is beneficial to the growth and expansion of balls, and shallow planting is beneficial to flowering. Generally, it is advisable to plant big balls with the bud top slightly exposed to the ground. When planting small balls and stubble, the bud top should be lower than or flush with the soil surface. Tuberous tuberose emerges slowly, taking more than 1 month, but grows rapidly after emergence. So in the early stage of planting, because there are few seedlings, there is no need for too much irrigation; When the flower stems are about to be pulled out and at the early flowering stage, they should be fully irrigated and the soil should be kept moist frequently.
Before the late autumn frost, dig out tuberose bulbs to dry, remove soil and fibrous roots, and cut a thin layer at the bottom of the bulbs to expose white. Continue to air dry, then braid the remaining leaves and hang them in a warm and dry place for storage in winter. Or use the stove to smoke, hang the light bulb indoors and put the stove under it to smoke. At first, the room temperature was kept at 25℃-26℃, so that the water in the ball gradually decreased until the skin was dry and wrinkled, and then the temperature was reduced to 15℃-20℃ until the following spring. After baking and smoking, the ball can be fully dried, thus forcing it to sleep completely, which is beneficial to the growth and flower bud differentiation after planting in the next spring. There are also bulbs that are piled up in a dry and sunny cellar after drying, covered and compacted by layers of straw and soil, and buried for the winter; Or digging and hanging after continuous planting for 2 -3 years, but the flowering quality is poor and the flowering period is irregular.
Management: The planting area should be cultivated with human base fertilizer, and the big ball, small ball and old ball that bloomed last year should be planted separately. The distance between the big ball and the plant is 25; Cm, and the ball spacing is about 10 cm. The planting depth of bulbous roots is shallower than other bulbous roots, and the bud tips of big balls should be slightly exposed from the soil surface, while the bud tips of small balls and old balls should be lower than the soil surface. The old ball has been blooming for a year, and it can't bloom any more. There are only many thin and pointed balls around the old ball. Deep long ball shallow pumping is the principle that tuberose follows in planting depth. In the early stage of planting, because there are few leaflets, you don't need too much water; When the scape is about to be pulled out, it should be given enough water and topdressing; Thicker liquid fertilizer can only be applied after scape extraction. Pay special attention to watering in summer and keep the soil moist at all times. After the overground part withers, the area south of the Yangtze River is often covered with leaves or hay to prevent freezing and overwinter in the open field. However, it is best to dig out the bulbs, dry them slightly, remove the soil, braid the remaining leaves, continue to dry them, hang them in a warm and dry place for storage and overwintering, and keep the room temperature above 4℃. Tuber tuberose can also be potted, which can promote cultivation. Bulbs planted in late June, 1 1, cultivated in high temperature greenhouse, can bloom in April, but it is inconvenient to raise flowers at home.
The normal flowering period of tuberose is autumn. In order to make it bloom in the Spring Festival, the bulb can be rooted in a high-temperature greenhouse in June 5438+065438+1October, and placed in a sunny and ventilated place, and it can bloom more than two months later. If the ball is planted in February, it will bloom in May and June.
Fertilizing tuberose likes fertilizer, and topdressing should be done frequently: topdressing should be done once every month after planting, once every time before flowering, and once every half month or two months thereafter. Pay attention to drainage and flower stem lodging in rainy season. Dig out bulbs before first frost in late autumn, dry them slightly, remove soil and fibrous roots, and cut a thin layer at the bottom of bulbs to expose white; Continue to air dry, then braid the remaining leaves and hang them in a warm and dry place for storage in winter. Or use the stove to smoke, hang the light bulb indoors and put the stove under it to smoke.
It is the principle that tuberose planting depth should follow to keep deep long balls and shallow pumping. In the early stage of planting, because there are few leaflets, you don't need too much water; When the scape is about to be pulled out, it should be given enough water and topdressing; Thicker liquid fertilizer can only be applied after scape extraction. Pay special attention to watering in summer and keep the soil moist at all times. After the overground part withers, the area south of the Yangtze River is often covered with leaves or hay to prevent freezing and overwinter in the open field. However, it is best to dig out the bulbs, dry them slightly, remove the soil, braid the remaining leaves, continue to dry them, hang them in a warm and dry place for storage and overwintering, and keep the room temperature above 4℃. Tuber tuberose can also be potted, which can promote cultivation. Bulbs planted in late June, 1 1, cultivated in high temperature greenhouse, can bloom in April, but it is inconvenient to raise flowers at home.