The egg-yolk fruit is oval, about 8 cm long, green to egg-yellow, hairless, with an extremely thin, fleshy exocarp, a plump mesocarp, egg-yellow, edible, and tastes like egg yolk, hence the name; Seeds 2-4, oval, squashed. Flowers bloom in spring and bear fruit in autumn. It is native to tropical America and has been introduced and cultivated in Guangdong, Guangxi, Yunnan and other provinces of my country. 1. Only for potted plants. They will not bloom or bear fruit, nor can they grow too fast. The main purpose is to appreciate the beauty of seeds and plants. This situation is relatively simple, and the potting method of egg yolk fruit is also simple, just like the sowing method of other fruits such as oranges, grapefruits, and dragon fruits. Look at the picture below. When sowing, use a tool to open the hard shell of the seeds and then sow them. It can germinate under the right temperature and humidity. 2. It is difficult to grow egg yolk fruit, and it is a potted plant, so it cannot be done overnight. Moreover, egg yolk fruit is a tropical fruit, mainly distributed in the south. If flower lovers in the north want to try it, you can imagine how difficult it is. However, here is a brief introduction to the method for the reference of interested flower gardening enthusiasts. The following information is from "Guangdong Agricultural Science": 1. Variety selection. Currently, most of the egg yolk fruits on the market are imported from abroad, while most domestic fruits are seedlings, and the quality of the fruits varies. According to the characteristics of the fruit, it can be divided into five types: large peach-shaped, momo-shaped, spherical, spindle-shaped, and inverted egg-shaped. The middle of the peach-shaped peel is slightly green, the fruit shape is large, the maximum single fruit weight is 298 grams, the fruit shoulder is slightly convex, the mouth is flat, the taste is good, there are few seeds, the edible rate is high, and the tree is strong. The shape of Momo fruit is slightly smaller than that of a large peach, with a maximum single fruit weight of 250g. It has orange peel, good quality, delicate taste and strong tree vigor. Spherical fruit, the maximum single fruit weight can reach 150g, the fruit shoulder is raised, the peel has reddish-brown patches, slightly more seeds, good quality, strong tree vigor; the spindle-shaped fruit is small, the maximum single fruit weight is 130g, the fruit body is uniform and slightly cylindrical Shape, with 3-7 fruit grooves, enlarged fruit shoulders, yellow peel, reddish-brown hairs on the fruit grooves and mouth, good quality, weak tree vigor; obovate peel green, not smooth, thick flesh, poor quality, strong tree vigor. Generally, the varieties used for bonsai cultivation are required to have the characteristics of fruit shape, beautiful leaves, compact tree shape, short and medium tree vigor, shallow root system, early fruiting, easy fruit setting, best fruit maturity during festivals, and few pests and diseases. Egg fruit potted plants are mainly for ornamental purposes. The aesthetics of the fruit, leaves and tree shape are the primary considerations in variety selection, followed by fruit size, taste, edible rate and insect resistance. At the same time, the local adaptability of varieties should also be considered. In practice, bonsai cultivation should choose spherical and spindle-shaped types, followed by large peach-shaped and momo-shaped types that have high cultivation requirements. Second, the seedlings and branches of the egg yolk fruit in the upper pot have latex, and the grafting survival rate is low. Seedlings can be propagated through ring-branch nursery technology. The obtained seedlings have the characteristics of moderate tree vigor, short root system, and early fruiting. Very suitable for potted plants. 2 to 3-year-old branches with a thickness of 1.5 to 3.0 cm that grow diagonally or horizontally in the sun are selected from mature trees with strong growth and good fruit quality. In South China, you can do laps at any time of the year, but March to May is the best time. At a distance of 15 cm from the branch, select the smooth and straight side of the epidermis and make two cuts. The cuts are about 3 to 6 cm apart and reach the xylem. Peel off the cortex between the two incisions, polish the cambium layer attached to the xylem with hemp fiber, and expose it for about 7 days to dry out the remaining cambium cells. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for rooting, as are fermented wood chips, mixed woodland humus, dried cow manure and a small amount of superphosphate. Moisten the base with water. Coconut shells and sawdust can clump together without squeezing water. It is advisable to loosen it on the ground. Too much moisture is bad for your hair roots. Before wrapping the rooting matrix, apply 500mg/ml NAA or IBA between the phloem and xylem of the peel to facilitate early and more rooting. About 60 days after the ringing is completed, roots can take place 2 to 3 times. Generally speaking, the seedbed should be shaded for 15 days before the initial stage. After new branches sprout, excessive new branches should be cut off in time to improve the survival rate. Fertilization can begin after the first tip of the yolk seedling sprouts. Use decomposed human and animal excrement and urine as the main ingredients, add water to mix, apply at a concentration of 3% to 5%, and pump the tip 1 to 2 times. Pay attention to drought and flood to ensure harvest. Each time the tips are pulled out 3~5cm, they should be sprayed in time to protect the growth of the tender tips. Prune the seedlings when they reach 20~30cm to cultivate strong main branches. Huangguo Huanzhi seedlings require secondary mature branches, thick branches, neat leaves, dark green leaves, full bud eyes, no diseases and insect pests, and can be used for potted plants. Eggs and fruits are suitable for long-term consumption in the pot. In areas where there is no frost damage in winter or overwintering indoors, pots can be planted in autumn and will grow vigorously in the following spring. In areas with cold winters, it is safer to go to the basin in the spring before branch growth occurs. In areas with rainy summers, you can go to the basin after the spring shoots stop growing and the summer shoots start to sprout. The root system of potted egg yolk fruit has high requirements on water, nutrients and permeability. Slightly acidic nutrient soil with good ventilation, water permeability, fertilizer retention and water retention should be selected. 1 part each of perlite and humus soil, or 1/3 each of sandy loam soil, dried cow dung, vermiculite and slag, plus peanut bran and urea. Or add vermiculite, moss and decomposed sawdust to 1/2 of the loam, and add 1 kg of plant ash and 50 g of urea per 1 cubic meter. In Guangdong, rich, sticky pond silt is dried and turned into finger-sized pellets for farming. After placing the pot, water it on sunny days. 7 to 10 days after potting, when the new potted seedlings grow new roots, apply 5% decomposed cake fertilizer or other dilute liquid fertilizer. Potted plants should be placed in a ventilated and sunny place. The planting density should be wider to facilitate management, and the distance should be adjusted as the plants grow.
In order to reduce the evaporation of water in the pots and lower the temperature of the site, it is advisable to cover the open space between the pots with dry straw, which will also help prevent the growth of weeds. Avoid placing potted plants on concrete floors, as this will be detrimental to their growth. However, in order to prevent the roots of potted egg yolks from growing to the ground through the water holes in the bottom of the pot, it is necessary to lay materials on the bottom of the pot to prevent the roots from falling to the ground, such as bricks. If you grow eggshells in urban areas, the potted plants should be placed where sunlight and dew can come into contact. Where potted plants are placed on the balcony, the direction of the pots should be moved appropriately every once in a while. The cement floors on building balconies and home courtyards are relatively dry. Coupled with the sun exposure, the water in the basin will lose quickly, so you need to add more water. It is best to sprinkle water on the balcony or lay absorbent materials such as bricks or sand under the pot to create a relatively humid and cool growing environment. three. Potting techniques 1. Fertilization management of saplings: One month after the seedlings are planted, fertilize once a month according to the principle of frequent application and thin application. Urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate are applied in a ratio of 2_1, and the concentration of each application is 0.1%. From September to February of the following year, fertilize once a month, with a ratio of urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate of 32, and an application concentration of 0.3%. In the third year, most small trees begin to bear fruit. At this time, you need to pick the flowers and increase the amount of nitrogen fertilizer to promote the vegetative growth of the saplings. In the first nine months of the third year, urea and potassium fertilizers were applied once a month, with a ratio of 31 and an application concentration of 0.3%. From September to February of the following year, fertilize once every two months, with a ratio of 52 to 52 for urea and potassium fertilizer, and an application concentration of 0.3%. In the third year, chicken seedlings begin to bear fruit, which has a certain ornamental effect, but there are fewer fruits. The ornamental effect will be better until the trees are full after the fourth year of potting.
In addition, foliar fertilizer should be sprayed. Urea, superphosphate, plant ash, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, boric acid or borax 2. Water supply For potted egg yolk fruit, water supply is very important. Watering time is generally before 10:00 in the morning or after 16:00 in the afternoon; in winter or early spring, it should be done in the afternoon when the temperature is high to avoid drastic changes in the temperature of the pot soil, which will affect the growth and development of the plants. In hot summer, potted trees lose more water due to fast transpiration, so the potting soil should be kept moist. For this reason, the rim of the basin should be kept full, and the water should be completely moist from the surface of the basin to the bottom of the basin to avoid pouring half of the water. To keep the pot soil moist, the surface of the cultivation soil can be covered with hay or waste shade netting, but the cover should be uncovered and inspected frequently to keep the pot soil moist. Water when the soil is slightly dry, but do not water when it is completely dry. When the air is dry in autumn, a simple bottle water supply, preferably drip irrigation, can be used to meet the water needs of potted plants. In the dry season, when watering, spray water on the leaves and ground appropriately to increase the air humidity. When potting, it is difficult to get natural rain and dew, so artificial spraying of water on the leaves is very important, especially in the dry season and hot summer. Spraying water on the branches and leaves every morning and afternoon can reduce the temperature of the tree and promote growth and development. If alkaline water is poured for a long time, even if the original pH value of the cultivated soil is suitable, it will cause the alkalization of the cultivated soil in the basin. Potted fruit trees are often corrected using ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate. The salts in hard water often cause brown spots on the leaves of fruit trees, which affects the viewing experience, so it is best to use soft water for potted plants. Rainwater, river water, and lake water are more suitable for potted plants, but most nurseries or households use well water and tap water, so well water or tap water should be placed in a pool or tank for a period of time before use. Before flowering, water should be properly controlled to promote flower bud differentiation. Water supply should be ensured during the strong fruit period. Water should be controlled after the fruit matures to prevent fruit cracking. 3. Preserve flowers and fruits Chemical fruit preservation: In order to increase the fruit setting rate, from flowering to physiological fruit drop, some measures can be taken to preserve flowers and fruits. Generally, 25 mg/L gibberellin plus 0.5% urea is sprayed during the flowering period to increase the gibberellin level of the trees; during the physiological fruit drop period, 0.5% urea 2,4-25 mg/L is sprayed. A small amount of washing powder can be added to the spray liquid as a spreading agent to make the spray evenly distributed. It is better if the wet leaves do not drip water, and the effect of preserving flowers and fruits is obvious. Bagging to protect fruits: bagging after physiological fruit drop, spraying to prevent pests and diseases before bagging, bagging on the same day to avoid reinfection of fruits. The bagging material can be kraft paper, old newspapers, preferably treated with insecticides and fungicides before use. When bagging, cover the fruit or the entire ear and tie the bag tightly. To color the peel, the bag should be removed 20 days before ripening. 4. The yolk fruit has strong germination ability after shaping and pruning. At the sapling stage, attention should be paid to shaping and pruning, reasonably distributing branches, and cultivating a good crown. After the fruit is harvested, overly dense branches, branches with diseases and insect pests, shady branches and overgrown branches should be promptly cut off to maintain a good tree structure. 5. Pest control. Yolk fruit diseases and insect pests are rare. For a few scale insects, spray 5% mineral oil emulsion or 5% baumannii sulfur mixture when the branches sprout, and spray 40% quick-killing liquid 100 to 500 times during the growth period; for sooty disease, use 400 times of sterilization solution or 0.11100 Bordeaux mixture spray can prevent and cure it. If there is termite damage, you can use 48% L?ben 1000~1500 times liquid spray to control it.