Yu

( 1)

Opposite the Mogao grottoes is a three-dimensional mountain. "Shan Hai Jing" records: "Shun three dangers chase three seedlings". It can be seen that it is the early barrier of Chinese civilization, and it is too early to draw a clear line with myth. How to fight that battle is hard to imagine now, but the mighty army of the Central Plains should have been here. At that time, the whole earth was sparsely populated, and the sound of hooves seemed empty and loud. Let such a three-dangerous mountain be the reflection wall of the Mogao Grottoes, which is beyond the reach of human resources and can only be arranged by nature.

In 366 AD, a monk came here. His name is Lezun, he is pure and quiet, and he is wandering in the fields with a handful of things in his hand. It's already night here, and he wants to find a place to live. Looking around at the summit, I suddenly saw a strange sight: three dangerous mountains were glittering and towering like a thousand buddhas dancing. Is it the sunset glow? No, the sunset glow is in the west, corresponding to the golden light of Sanwei Mountain.

There are many explanations about the trace of the golden light of the Three Risks, which I don't want to discuss here. Anyway, Monk Le Zun was very excited. He stood stupefied, with golden light burning in front of him and colorful sunset clouds behind him. His whole body was red, and Zhang Xi in his hand became crystal clear. He stood stupefied, there was no sound between heaven and earth, only the overflow of light and the shadow of color. He realized something, put Zhang Xi on the ground and knelt down solemnly. Qingyin vowed to be widely given alms from now on, and built a grotto here to make it a real holy place. After the monk made his wish, the flames on both sides were black, and the twilight pressed on the vast sand plain.

Soon, the first grotto of Lezun monk was started. At the time of alms, he widely publicized his adventures, and believers from far and near came to the scenic spot to worship. With the growth of age, new caves have been excavated one after another, from princes to civilians, or individually or jointly, all my beliefs and prayers have been chiseled into this steep slope. Since then, the history of this mountain has been inseparable from the tinkling of craftsmen's axes.

There are many real artists lurking among craftsmen. The legacy of the previous generation of artists silently nourished the artists of future generations. As a result, this steep slope in the depths of the desert has absorbed unlimited talents, and the ethereal stands bulging and becomes mysterious and serene.

(2)

From which densely populated city to here, it is very far away. In the foreseeable future, it can only be like this. Be reserved because of beauty, but far away because of wealth. It insists that every pilgrim should make a long journey in return.

It was just after the Mid-Autumn Festival when I came, but the north wind roared. Along the way, I saw a foreigner with a red nose asking for directions. They don't understand Chinese, just shouting "Mogao! Mogao! " The tone is mellow, such as calling for relatives. Domestic tourists are more crowded. When the museum closed at night, there were a group of newly arrived tourists begging the doorman to open the door.

I stayed in the Mogao Grottoes for a few days. The first day at dusk, all the tourists left, and I wandered back and forth along the foot of the Mogao Grottoes. It is difficult to try to sort out the feelings of watching during the day; I have to rethink this hillside. What kind of existence is it?

Compared with the Egyptian pyramids, the Indian Yamazaki Tower and the ruins of the Colosseum in ancient Rome, many cultural relics in China often have historical levels. The remains of other countries are generally built first, prosperous for a period of time, and then preserved in the form of pure remains for people to see. The Great Wall in China is not like this. It is always built and expanded from generation to generation. As a kind of space winding, the Great Wall closely corresponds to the winding of time. China has a long history, too many wars and too many sufferings. No pure relic can be preserved for a long time unless it is hidden underground, in a grave and in a secret place that is not noticed by ordinary people. Epang Palace was burnt down, Wang Teng Pavilion collapsed, and Yellow Crane Tower was newly rebuilt. Dujiangyan in Chengdu can be preserved for a long time because it has always played a water conservancy function. Therefore, there is always a unique gift, endless and full of historical wonders of hundreds of generations.

What makes foreign monuments proud of the Mogao Grottoes lies in its 1000 years of accumulation. Looking at the Mogao Grottoes is not about specimens that have been dead for a thousand years, but about life that has lived for a thousand years. What a magnificent life it is to live to be a thousand years old, with smooth blood flow and even breathing! Generations of artists came to us, and every artist was involved in a noisy background, where a parade spanning thousands of years was held. Complex clothes make us see things in a blur, and the standard sound makes our ears roar. In other places, you can bend down to play with a piece of gravel and a ridge of soil, but not here at all. You, too, were wrapped and staggered until you were melted by the torrent of history. Here, a person's senses are not enough, so just give up on yourself and let countless pairs of artistic giants crush you into dust.

Therefore, I can't help wandering back and forth in front of the foot of the mountain at this twilight moment, and finding myself bit by bit will definitely be a shock. The evening breeze began, mixed with fine sand, and my cheeks ached. The moon in the desert is also very cold. There is a flowing spring at the foot of the mountain, gurgling with sound. Listen up. Finally, there is a clue.

I still can't remember what I saw during the day. I only remember that the first thing I saw was a strong blue-brown water flow, which should be the remains of the Northern Wei Dynasty. The color is calm as three-dimensional, and the brushwork is heroic as a halberd. At that time, wars were frequent, and many brave men in the north galloped on the battlefield. Toughness and suffering merge and flow to the cave walls of grottoes. While the craftsmen were painting in this cave, Tao Yuanming in the south was drinking in a broken house. I don't know what kind of wine Tao Yuanming is drinking. There is no doubt that the spirit is wandering here, and there is no fragrant smell. It's just a kind of power, a powerful energy that can make people draw their swords crazily. It's a little cold, a little wild and even a little cruel here; The color flow began to be carefree and soft, which must be after Emperor Wen unified China. Clothes and patterns have become gorgeous, with fragrance, warmth and laughter. This is natural. Emperor Yang Di is happily sailing south on a royal ship. The newly-built canal is rippling with blue waves, attracting rare flowers in Yangzhou. Emperor Yang Di is so fierce that craftsmen can't keep up with his laughter, but they have become atmospheric and fine, which indicates that their men will pour out more amazing things; The color flow suddenly whirled and surged, of course in the Tang Dynasty. All the colors in the world are sprayed out, but they are not wild at all, and they blend smoothly into the fine and smooth lines, turning into a magnificent symphony. Here is no longer just the temperature in early spring, but the spring breeze is mighty, everything wakes up, and every muscle of people wants to jump. Even the birds are singing and dancing here, and even the flowers are wrapped in patterns, cheering for the world. The sculptures here have pulse and breath, full of laughter and anger that will last for thousands of years. You can't see every scenery here with both eyes, and every corner is enough for you to stay for a long time. There is no repetition here, and true happiness never repeats. There is no stereotype here, and there is no room for real humanity. There is nothing here, only human life is transpiration. You can think for a while when you go to other places, but here, as soon as you go in, it makes you hot and unbearable, makes you lose your temper, and makes you just want to fly with your feet. No matter what you draw, you will be amazed at the bottom of your heart. This is man, and this is life. The most attractive thing in the world is the life signal sent by a group of people who live very comfortably. This signal is magnetism, dear, and Fiona Fang's magic well. No one can get rid of these scrolls, and no one can keep calm in front of them. This is what the Tang Dynasty should do. This was the case in the Tang Dynasty. Our nation finally has such a dynasty, and finally has such a moment, which magnificent colorful streams it controls and can actually command; The color flow is more refined, it should be five generations. The glory of the Tang Dynasty did not stop, but moved from fiery to enthusiastic, from wild to calm. The blue sky overhead seems a little smaller, and the breeze in the wild is no longer swaying; Finally, it was a little gray, and the dancers looked up at the changed sky, and their dancing began to become stiff. There is still no lack of elegance, there is still a wonderful pen, but the cheerful overall atmosphere is hard to find. Outside the cave, Xin Qiji and Lu You are still holding swords in Long song, and the wonderful timbre has become lonely. Su Dongpo echoed Tao Yuanming with peerless genius. The land of the Great Song Dynasty was somewhat gloomy by the downward trend and the clouds of Neo-Confucianism. It is difficult to find red in the color flow, which should be from Yuan Dynasty. ..... These hazy impressions, after a little combing, are already quite tired, like catching a long-distance traveler. It is said that the murals in the Mogao Grottoes are connected, reaching 60 Li. I just don't believe that 60 miles is easy for me. How can I be so tired?

The night is deep and the Mogao Grottoes are completely asleep. Just like studying a strong man's sleeping position, there is nothing strange, low, quiet, barren and bare, just like the hills elsewhere.

(3)

On the third morning, I plunged into the crowd again to explore the details of the Mogao Grottoes, although I was not confident.

Tourists are all kinds. Some lined up to listen to the narrator telling Buddhist stories; Some took painting tools and copied them in caves; Some also take out notes from time to time, write a few words, and discuss academic topics quietly with their partners. They are like lenses with different focal lengths, facing the same subject and choosing the clarity and blur they need.

The Mogao Grottoes do have rich depth of field, which can be enjoyed by different tourists. Listen to stories, learn art, explore history and seek culture. All great arts will not only present their own unilateral life. They all exist to see, and they look forward to the people they look up to. A mural, sighing in front, is the three-dimensional life of this mural. Tourists are looking at murals and themselves. Then, two corridors appeared in front of my eyes: the corridor of art and the corridor of the viewer's mind; There are also two depth of field: historical depth of field and national psychological depth of field.

If you just want to hear the story of Buddhism, its colorful gods and colors seem a bit wasteful. If you just want to learn painting techniques, you won't attract so many ordinary tourists. If it is only for the sake of history and culture, then at most it can only be illustrations in a thick book. It seems to be much deeper, more complicated and more magical.

This is a party, a phone call. It deifies human nature and puts it into modeling, which triggers human nature. Therefore, it has become a colorful dream, a sacred precipitation and a permanent yearning in the hearts of the nation.

This is a carnival, a release. In its embrace, God and man are integrated and soar in time and space, which makes people walk into the neon of myth, fable and universal consciousness. Here, carnival is the order of nature, release is the personality of nature, and the kingdom of art is the palace of freedom.

It is a ritual, a religion beyond religion. Buddhism has been distilled by the flame of beauty, leaving behind the mystery, purity and superb ceremony. As long as people know, they will attend this ceremony all their lives and accept its baptism and edification.

This ceremony is so grand and extensive. Even, there is no desert, no Mogao grottoes, no Dunhuang. The ceremony has started from the starting point of the harbor, in the sand nest, in the tent in the night wind, in the white ruins, on the back of the long-haired camel, between a series of deep footprints. The eyes that shed too many tears have been dulled by the wind and sand, but it doesn't matter. The worshippers who came back face to face from there had such bright eyes. I believe that all people who come for religion will definitely take away feelings beyond religion and keep them in the subconscious all their lives. The treasure has become hereditary, and the next generation of ascetic monks is vast. Why can Gansu artists cause national fanaticism just by capturing a dance here? Why did Zhang Can Daqian take some lines from here with an oil lamp, which can sweep the world painting world? This is just a ceremony, this is just human nature, this is just a deep hint. It's no use reading too much into their methods. Wholehearted success lies in wholeheartedly worshipping Dunhuang. Cai Yuanpei proposed replacing religion with aesthetic education at the beginning of this century. I can clearly see here that the highest aesthetic education also has religious characteristics. Maybe the future of mankind is to establish a religion about beauty on this planet?

(4)

After I left Dunhuang, I went to other places.

I have been to another Buddhist art resort with beautiful scenery and convenient transportation. The witty commentator connected the Buddhist story with today's news and code of conduct and told an eccentric moral lesson. The listener smiles and sometimes shows shame. I have also been to a scenic spot with beautiful peaks and scenery. A tour guide pointed to several peaks slightly resembling human bodies and told the story of chastity. The picturesque scenery immediately became a moral model. The audience pounced on the bow with interest and carefully identified it.

I'm afraid this land is full of piles, squeezing away the beautiful traces. To this end, I miss the Mogao Grottoes even more.

When can a great artist tell me the real mystery of the Mogao Grottoes? Dunhuang in Jing Shangjing is obviously not satisfactory. Perhaps hermann hesse of China should write Narcissus and Goethe-Mencius, which describe the emergence of religious art so exciting and full of modern spirit.

In any case, this land should be reunited with the noisy, singing and dancing parade.

We are descended from Tian Fei.