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Understand aircraft model making and coating materials.
Understand aircraft model making and coating materials.

Aerospace, like aviation, is the most active, influential and promising scientific and technological field in the process of human understanding and transforming nature. Its development needs a large number of outstanding talents who love the aerospace industry, actively participate in it and work hard to serve it. It is one of the important ways to popularize space knowledge and cultivate and bring up space reserve talents to carry out model rocket sports widely among teenagers. The following are the knowledge and painting materials of airplane model making that I provided. Welcome to read and browse.

Chapter 1 Preparation of Making Tools

1. Model scissors/pliers

The cutting edge is made of high-strength metal and has a bevel (also called diagonal pliers), which is a tool to remove the model parts from the board. Because of the bevel, the parts will not be damaged. It is recommended to buy domestic Audi at a price of 18 yuan.

2. pencil sharpener

After cutting off the parts, it is necessary to cut off the redundant flow channels on the parts with a pen and knife. It is recommended to buy a Tadao 28 yuan/handle (8 blades). Beginners should be reminded not to face themselves when using the pen knife to avoid injury.

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The parts need to be polished after they are removed, and then you need them. Files can be divided into diamond powder files (with cheap diamond powder on the surface) and thread files, the former is very suitable for polishing plastics; Which can polish the etched wafer. It is recommended to buy various styles of suits. Generally, the price is not expensive around 20~50 yuan. The file can be cleaned with a few brushes with a used toothbrush.

4. Sandpaper

After rough grinding, the file needs to be finely processed with sandpaper. Sandpaper is divided into various sizes, and the bigger the size, the finer it is. Suggest buying 800, 1000. 1200 water sandpaper (available in hardware store, price 0. 6 yuan/Zhang or so)

glue

After the parts are polished, they should be bonded with special glue. It is highly recommended to buy Tamiya slip-on adhesive (25 yuan/bottle), which has good fluidity and moderate bonding strength. The most important thing is that it has? Permeability function, avoiding the overflow of damaged parts caused by too much glue. Other glues are bottled in Wang Mo (small bottle 10 yuan/bottle, large bottle 25 yuan/bottle) and Wei Long glue (8 yuan/bottle is rare now).

6. Tweezers

Small parts are often encountered in model making, so you need a good tweezers. It is recommended to buy the one with a lock behind the elbow tip.

Filling soil

Some models will have cracks after combination due to mold opening, so they need to be filled with soil. There are many kinds of mending soil: water mending soil, toothpaste mending soil, AB mending soil, Bao Li mending soil and red mending soil. , can be divided into patching: toothpaste patching plastic: AB patching, Bao Li patching, red patching surface treatment: water patching. Only toothpaste-like filling soil is introduced here: Tamiya and Junshi's products are common in the market, and the prices are all 25 yuan/tablet. Personally, I think Tamiya's filling soil is delicate and easy to use, but it has the disadvantage of large shrinkage after drying, but it is still recommended for beginners. The filling soil in the county is gelatinous, with high hardness and small shrinkage after drying, but it is difficult to get started and is not suitable for novices.

The above tools are the most basic tools in model making (excluding painting tools, which are introduced in another article). For beginners, this is only the first step on the road to model making. How to make good use of these tools is the basic skill of model making and the only way to become a master.

Chapter II Preparation of Painting Tools

We have introduced the basic tools used in model making. After the model is made, we need to color it. Now we will introduce the basic tools used in painting.

1.pen

Just like pens used as children, they are sold in major art stores (in many sizes). It is recommended to buy animal hair, which is soft and elastic. Gouache painting can also use a pen. After use, you can use banana oil to clean it (also called tinea water, available in paint shops, 2~3 yuan per bottle).

2. Pigment tray

As the name implies, it is a tool for loading pigments, and there are many on the market. It is recommended to buy a county magistrate's, 10 yuan/box (1 1 block) PS: If you want to save money, you can use a small dish with seasoning at home.

Paint mixing rod

Stainless steel bar, the basic tool for color matching. The two ends are made into tools for scooping pigments and stirring, and the amount of pigments scooped out is controlled with a small spoon, so that accurate coloring can be achieved. Tamiya's product is 400 yen (number 740 17).

4. Model coating

Model painting is an essential tool for model painting. There are many common model paints on the market: Tamiya, military adviser, model king, angel, fairy shadow, soldier and so on. Prices vary, including: nitrolacquer: model king, angel; Water-based paint: Tiangong, strategist, fairy eagle, oily paint: Tiangong, strategist, soldier; Enamel paint: Tamiya. Novices are generally advised to use Wang Mo's nitrolacquer (6 yuan/bottle). If you want to pursue perfection, it must be Shi Jun and Tamiya. The effect is not significant, but the price is a little expensive (14~20 yuan/bottle), but I think it's a penny for a penny. Give it a try and you'll never think about anything else!

solvent

According to the quality of paint, the choice of solvent is also very important. Generally speaking, the solvents are products of Tamiya, Junshi and Wang Mo. I strongly suggest that if the paint is used well, Junshi's special solvent (large bottle, 400ML) with a price of 900 yen must be the first choice. Tamiya's pigment is best matched with its solvent (not X-20), and the government can also use it. If you use Wang Mo paint, the solvent effect of Wang Mo can also be (25 yuan/bottle), that is, the taste is% # *&; * $ $ & amp~~~~

6. Others

Mask: Everyone knows that paint is toxic, so it needs proper protection. Mask is the most basic thing. (preferably a gas mask ~ ~ ~)

Gloves: If you accidentally get paint on your hands and take away other parts, it will cause pollution. In order to avoid this, I think it is necessary to prepare a pair of gloves.

Empty bottle: Sometimes it is a pity that too few or too many colors have been painstakingly mixed, and then they are thrown away. Then you need them. Used paint bottles can be cleaned and used.

Chapter III Basic Skills-How to Wash and Dry-clean

After the model is drawn, it is necessary to carry out aging treatment, and the most basic steps are washing and dry sweeping. Their functions are the same: reflecting the three-dimensional sense of the model, washing is a large-scale visual effect, and dry scanning is a small-scale detail. Now let's talk about how to wash and dry sweep and the tools they need.

wash

This is an e word, which translates as "wash?" The meaning of. What is washing? You can look at the horny model you just fucked. Is it angular? And washing is to express the concave and convex of the model in a special way.

Related tools:

(1) oil painting pigment:

You can buy them in art stores. It is recommended to buy warm sand. Newton brand oil painting pigment, the required colors are: ivory black and brown. You can buy large-capacity monochrome, about 1.8 yuan/unit, and you can use more than n models.

(2) Kerosene/lighter oil:

To dissolve oil painting pigments, special solvents must be used, such as kerosene and lighter oil. Because kerosene volatilizes slowly, it usually takes a long time to wipe after washing, so it is not used much now. Light oil is the most widely used. I suggest buying ZIPPO, which is cheap (8 yuan/bottle 125ML) and the effect is good. In particular, don't use a solvent called turpentine, which smells very bad and will dissolve your primer together! ! ! Spraying matting agent is useless.

(3) Pen

Take a writing brush/flat pen casually, and the bristles should be soft, but be careful not to be a rotten pen that will lose hair.

(4) Cotton cloth and cotton swabs

The best thing to wipe after washing is cotton; Cotton swabs are used to wipe cotton cloth. Can't they be cleaned? Dead end?

Washing step

First, dilute the oil painting pigment and ZIPPO oil at the ratio of 65,438+0: 3 (be careful to mix them evenly), then evenly smear them on the model with a pen, let them stand for 65,438+00 ~ 65,438+05 minutes, and then wipe them clean with cotton cloth and cotton swabs. Need to remind everyone that when wiping, don't use too much force, especially at the corners to wipe off the paint layer; Sometimes the time is not well controlled and the paint has dried up. Don't rub it hard, just gently rub it with a cotton swab dipped in ZIPPO oil. Suggest that everyone use it? Eat less and eat more? Principle, you can wash it several times to enhance the effect, and don't be eager for quick success and instant benefit, so that the oil painting pigment is too thick, which makes it difficult to clean up.

Dry sweep

As the name implies, dry cleaning is very? Fuck? Sweep some pigments on the model to reflect the light and shade changes of corners and small bumps. Advanced paint can remove, wear and metal.

Related tools:

(1) pen

Dry cleaning has strict requirements for pens. Here, I would like to introduce my purchasing experience: pens should be made of animal hair, which is elastic, neat and lint-free. When choosing, you can brush a few strokes with the back of your hand, feeling smooth and soft. Never use a bad pen because you are greedy and cheap, otherwise you won't get good results. Prepare more pens, and it is best not to use them for a day.

2. Paint

The requirements of dry scanning for paint are different from those of pen drawing and spraying. Dry cleaning only uses the thick part deposited on the bottom of the bottle. It is recommended to prepare some paint separately for dry cleaning.

(3) Others

A clean piece of cotton cloth or a piece of white paper.

Steps of dry scanning

Dip a pen in some pigments deposited on the bottom of the bottle, and then sweep it back and forth several times until there is basically no color on the cotton cloth. Make a 45-degree angle between the pen and the model, lightly touch the surface of the model, and then gently sweep in one direction (don't sweep back and forth! I didn't see any effect at first, but the effect became obvious after scanning several times. Need to be reminded: do it? Enough is enough? Otherwise, the effect is too exaggerated and counterproductive; The intensity of sweeping should be properly mastered (too much force will lead to pen marks, but too little force will have no obvious effect), in short, practice more until you can master the essentials skillfully.

The fourth chapter is the basic method of model painting.

Step 1: spray No evenly after assembly. 1000 bottom fill. This makes it easy to check whether the combination is defective first; Secondly, the paint sprayed behind can be attached more firmly; Third, it can make widgets opaque and heavy.

Step 2: evenly spray No.42 paint (dark brown). Is this for the back? Shadow color? Lay the foundation and advance at the same time? Steps to prevent parts from being transparent and enhance the sense of weight: 4 1# reddish brown can also be substituted.

Step 3: spray No.39 paint (sand yellow) on a large area of the whole car, but leave some dark brown primer on all boundaries and edges of the car body. Then spray (or hand-paint) dark gray on the rims of tires and load-bearing wheels (note! Not black).

Step 4: Use paint number. 193 (german brown) randomly spray brown stripes. At this time, use a pen with a diameter of 0.3 mm or 0.2 mm, and the pressure of the air pump should not be too large to make the edge of the ejected stripe solid.

Step 5: spray green stripes with No.60 paint (gray-green). Be careful not to spray too hard and shallow, otherwise the color will be too abrupt and unreal. You can also use 192 (Delong), so that the overall color will be more vivid.

Step 6: Use? Zippo? Oil-diluted brown-black oil painting pigment, light? Pickling? After cleaning, spray some brown and black on the lower part of the car body to show the dirty feeling, and then gently use light yellow oil painting color? Dry sweep? Edges and prominent details.

Step 7: spray bright paint on the whole car first, and then stick water stickers to prevent the water stickers from being inconsistent with the body gloss. Water softener is an effective helper, but it can also be used according to the actual situation.

Step 8: Spray matting agent. This not only reduces the brightness of the whole vehicle, increases the sense of reality, but also protects the water sticker and paint layer, thus completing the production. This step can ensure the basic inflow of works.

Note: 1. The process of this paper is just one of many skills, and it can't be done from point to area; 2. Is the paint number in the text Japan? Shi Jun? Brand paint color number can also be made in China? Soldiers? Brand paint instead, same color number; 3. In order to achieve good results, a double-acting all-metal pen should be used.

Chapter V Use of Water Stickers

You will find water stickers in the model box. Some are good, but some are really bad. Some simple principles are needed in using water stickers. ※.

? Surface treatment:

First of all, the surface of the water sticker must be smooth. As modelers, we like flat surfaces and flat coatings, so to use water stickers, we need a step to smooth the surface. We need this step because some tools, such as the processing surface of a file, can't make the water sticker stick to the surface smoothly. This will make the light reflect from the back of the water sticker, causing what the modeling world calls it? Reflective? Effect. So use your favorite varnish or something like that to apply a thin layer to the water sticker. If you use a pen, you may need to spray it several times. Some people simply use brushes, but unless the varnish layer is very thin, we don't recommend it. Most brands of acrylic varnish can be used for this step. Because it is very thin, and it won't leave brush marks by hand. If necessary, you can also spray with a pen. Once the smooth surface is completely dry, you can put on the water sticker.

? Paste method:

Step 2: Soften the pasting method with water paste. When the plaster is still wet, apply this liquid, which acts as a mild dissolving agent to make the plaster slightly? Dissolve? Put it down. In this way, the water sticker can be completely and closely combined with the surface to which it is attached. It can fit the gap, cover the protruding rivet and surround the curve. Once the softener is used, be careful not to touch or move the water sticker, otherwise it may damage the water sticker. The water sticker looks wrinkled, indicating that the sticker softener has worked, but it will shrink and return to flatness after drying. If you see bubbles after drying, puncture it and reuse the softener. Although it is not as effective as the first use, it will be more or less helpful if it can't be solved.

One thing to remember is that different brands of softeners have different characteristics, and so do water stickers, so they are special? Strong? Softener may damage the thin water sticker. Therefore, before learning about a certain brand of water stickers and sticker softeners, it is best to try it on unused water stickers. After the plaster dries, cover the plaster and model with transparent paint of your choice to make the plaster smoother. If you are lucky, the water sticker will naturally blend with the paint and will not be affected when you start dry cleaning.

? What kind of water sticker do you need?

Take a closer look at the water sticker in your model box. Comparing different manufacturers, we can find the difference in quality. The most important thing is to see its thickness. Thick water stickers are not easy to stick to the surface correctly, leaving traces on the edges. This requires considerable efforts to correct it. You should see the water sticker on the back paper, right? Disappear? Yes Observe with the naked eye in bright light, and you will find its essence.

Color registration is also very important, which means that the boundaries between colors are obvious, but now it seems less and less a problem than before.

After reading the water stickers of many model manufacturers, we can draw a general conclusion. In addition to the three largest manufacturers, some water stickers of Italeri are the best. Even the model water stickers 20 years ago are very good. DML (Veyron) is slightly inferior, but it can be clearly said that it is good. Some water stickers in Tamiya are very thick, so they are ranked last. Their colors, colors and details are beautiful, but when they are attached to the model, it is almost impossible to completely eliminate their heavy feeling.

The model water stickers of over the rainbow, AFV Club and Academy are of medium and high quality.

Some models in eastern Europe are of very good quality, but there have also been some examples of water stickers dissolving in water! Similarly, if possible, it is best not to use them first.

? Water stickers that are hard to see in the market:

Some of the best water stickers come from manufacturers, such as master's hobby supply, the third group, microscale and Ultracast. These water stickers usually don't even need a softener.

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