1. Cutting method
Cutting methods are divided into branch cutting, leaf cutting, root cutting cutting and bud cutting due to different cutting materials, but branch cutting is the most commonly used.
(1) Pruning: Cut the robust branches of plants into a certain length and insert them into the soil, so that the lower ends germinate and take root, and the upper parts germinate and regenerate into new plants. Due to different materials, cuttings can be divided into soft rock cuttings and hard cuttings.
Softwood cutting: also known as softwood cutting. Mostly used for evergreen woody flowers, herbaceous flowers, cacti and succulents. Softwood cuttings are mostly carried out in the peak season. Cut 1~2-year-old semi-lignified branches with vigorous growth, rich tissues and no pests and diseases. The length is 6 ~ 10 cm, leaving 2~3 nodes, and the upper end has 2 ~ 3 leaflets. The lower cut should be cut under the nodes. Generally, the cutting depth of flowers and trees is 1/2-2/3 of the cutting length, so it is best to use it for cutting survival. Such as chrysanthemum, begonia, a bunch of red flowers and so on. You can use this method.
Hard branch cutting: also known as old branch cutting. Mostly used for deciduous woody flowers. Cutting time is mostly in the dormant period from defoliation to germination. Cutting in autumn in southern China is conducive to promoting early rooting and germination. Winter cold protection in northern China should be carried out after the weather gets warmer in early spring. The cuttings should be completely lignified branches of one or two years old. Generally, shrubs are 5 ~ 1.5~3cm, and trees 15 ~ 20 cm, with a diameter of 0.5~3cm and 3 ~ 4 nodes. Cut off leaves and insert them into the seedbed. The cutting method of cuttings is basically the same as that of soft branches. In the north, cuttings are cut in late autumn, tied and buried in wet sand, put in a low-temperature room for winter, and taken out in the open field for cutting in the next spring. Such as Chinese rose and Jin Mu. You can cut in this way.
(2) Leaf cutting: Leaf cutting means cutting propagation with leaves. There are many kinds of leaf cuttings, such as Sedum, Begonia and so on. Leaves and petioles are thick, water and nutrients are sufficient, and leaf cuttings are easy to take root and survive. It can be done in spring, summer and autumn. The leaves of Sedum plants such as Lily, Begonia, Rooted Land, Crotalaria and so on can be propagated by cutting leaves. In rainy season, leaves with petioles are used as cutting materials, which can take root at the incision of petioles or leaves, and develop into new plants with humus mixed with sand or vermiculite and perlite as medium. There are several ways to insert leaves: take a leaf of Begonia buttercup and cut off the petiole. First, cut a lot of small wounds on the main vein of the back of the leaf with a blade, then lay it flat on the clean and moist sand, and press it on the leaf surface with a small piece of thick glass or pebbles to make the main vein close to the sand surface. Keep the air humidity high, and after about one month, the seedlings can germinate from the main vein wound. Cut the leathery fleshy leaves of Celastrus orbiculatus into small pieces, each 4 ~ 6 cm long, and insert them into plain sand. After a period of time, fibrous roots grow from the wound at the base, and underground rhizomes grow, and the terminal buds of rhizomes grow new plants. Petiole insertion When the leaves of Erythrina macrophylla are inserted into the sand with a 3 cm long petiole, a bulb can be formed at the base of the petiole, and the bulb will take root and sprout to form a new plant. The leaf buds are inserted in the sand bed with axillary buds at the bottom of the leaves before the axillary buds are mature and full, and the axillary buds and leaves are left outside the soil surface. When new roots appeared in the wound of the main vein at the base of the petiole, axillary buds began to germinate and gradually grew into new plants. Rubber trees, camellias, chrysanthemums and hydrangeas can all be propagated in this way. (3) Bud cutting: using tiller buds sprouted from the root tiller of the mother plant, axillary buds between leaf axils, sucking buds on the flower neck, scale buds in scale buds, and buds cut from tubers, bulbs and rhizomes for cutting. In spring and autumn, combined with flower shaping and bud thinning, the redundant buds on the branches are completely dug down with a sharp knife, and then inserted into the plain sand one by one, and the bud tips are exposed from the sand surface. Chrysanthemum, agave in Phnom Penh, geranium, begonia and rose can be propagated by tillering bud method. In spring and autumn, carry out axillary bud cutting, such as dahlia, geranium and chrysanthemum. Bud-sucking cuttage should be carried out on a windless cloudy day, and the soil at the bottom of bud-sucking should be moist, not too wet, such as cycads and pineapples.
(4) Root cutting: some flowers and trees with fleshy fibrous roots or straight roots, such as peony, peony, sessile begonia, wisteria, lingxiao and cherry blossoms. It is easy to produce adventitious buds at the roots and can be used as cuttings to cut roots and grow new plants. This method is often combined with transplanting or rameting in spring and autumn. Cut the stout taproot on the mother plant into small pieces of 5 ~ 10 cm. Coarse roots can be inserted obliquely under the topsoil, and fine roots can be laid flat on the surface of the seedbed and covered with fine sand, with a thickness of about 1cm. Pay attention to shading in the early stage after insertion, and spray water frequently to keep the bed soil moist. When rooting, gradually ventilate and transmit light, increase light and reduce watering. After germination, apply dilute fertilizer 1 time. When the cuttings take root and new plants grow healthily, they can be transplanted.
(5) Water insertion: Water insertion propagation is to insert cuttings into water and replace soil with a bottle of clear water. Not only is the propagation method simple and convenient, but also the rooting situation can be observed in clear and transparent water, which is convenient for finding and solving problems in time.
There are more than 100 kinds of flowers suitable for water insertion propagation. The main products are Glaucocalyx, Bean Green, Lepidium, Watermelon Peel Lepidium, Cold Spray, Begonia Four Seasons, Ranunculus Ranunculus, Begonia, Dictyophora Dictyophora, Sage, Eupatorium odoratum, Eupatorium odoratum, Eupatorium odoratum, Marigold, Ceratophyllum japonicum and Juglans macrophylla.
When inserting water, you must first choose the time to insert water. The optimum temperature for water insertion of most flowers is 20℃ ~ 25℃. Because the wound is not easy to heal at low temperature; However, if the temperature is too high and the water is not changed frequently, the water will deteriorate easily and the cuttings will rot easily. Cold water spray, gardenia, etc. They should be propagated by water insertion from May to June, because they are more likely to take root during this period. Tropical flowers and trees such as Hevea brasiliensis and lilac at night can be inserted into the water during the high temperature period in summer, so as to facilitate rapid rooting and survival. For water plugging, ordinary families can store tap water in barrels for 1 ~ 2 days, so that chlorine gas can be volatilized and reused.
Cutting should be selected first when breeding in water. For ordinary flowers, it is advisable to choose tender branches or semi-lignified branches. According to the required length, use a sharp and clean knife to cut from about 1cm below the stem node and remove the leaves inserted into the water. The depth of insertion in water is generally 1/3 or 1/4 of the cutting. Generally, shade-tolerant species should be raised in places with scattered light, while light-loving species should be raised in places with setting sun. Generally, the water should be changed 1 time every 3 ~ 5 days. In summer, the water can be changed 1 time every 1~2 days, and a few pieces of charcoal can be put in for anticorrosion. When the roots grow to l~2cm, they should be put on the pot in time.
2. Selection and treatment of cuttings
The selection of cuttings is the key to obtain excellent new plants. Generally speaking, branches with vigorous growth, good development and no diseases and insect pests should be selected for shoot and leaf bud insertion. On the same plant, it is best to choose branches that are in the middle and upper part of the year, sunny, short in internodes, thick in branches and leaves and full in buds. It is not advisable to choose branches and long branches that are about to bloom. The middle and lower branches with full growth and sufficient nutrients should be selected for hard cutting on the same branch, but the tip with terminal buds is better for cypress and cedar. Chrysanthemum, etc. You should use the tender head part. Immediately cut evergreen flower cuttings to prevent wilting from affecting survival. Cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for a few days after cutting, and then cut when the incision is slightly dry, otherwise it will easily cause decay.
3. Ways to promote rooting
There are many ways to promote cuttings to take root. In the production, in addition to properly raising the soil temperature, various growth hormones are often used to treat cuttings to promote their rooting. Commonly used growth hormones mainly include indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid, naphthylacetic acid and ABT rooting powder.
4. Cutting conditions
Temperature: The suitable temperature for most flowers to take root is 20 ~ 25℃. Too low temperature, slow rooting, too high temperature, the incision is easy to rot. Therefore, under natural conditions, it is appropriate to cut down in spring and autumn.
Humidity: the water content of cutting substrate should be 50% ~ 60%. There is more water in the matrix at the initial stage of cutting, which is helpful to the formation of callus. After the callus is formed, the water content should be gradually reduced, otherwise it is not easy to take root or even rot. Softwood cutting requires air relative humidity above 90%.
Illumination: the cutting of shoots must be dull, but the illumination should not be too strong; It is best to put it in the shade, so that the cuttings can see 30% ~ 40% light.
Cutting substrate: materials with good air permeability, easy moisture retention and smooth drainage are required. Cutting substrates are loose sandy loam, pastoral soil mixed with yellow sand, plant ash, humus, vermiculite and perlite. No matter which material is used as substrate, it should be disinfected with boiling water, sun exposure or 0. 1% potassium permanganate solution before use to prevent cuttings from being rotted by germs. When inserting water, you should pay attention to changing water frequently, and the water quality should be clean. Put it in a bucket for one day first. Use when the water temperature is close to the air temperature.
5. Cutting process management
When cutting, water it and cover it with plastic film to keep it warm and moist. Put it in a cool place after plugging it in, so as to receive scattered light and prevent direct sunlight. After that, open the plastic film 1~2 times a day to supplement the required oxygen. At the same time, we should pay attention to keep the soil moist. When the weather is hot, spray water 2~3 times a day, but the amount of spray water should not be too much, otherwise the bed soil will be too wet, which will affect the healing and rooting of cuttings. When the root system grows to 2 ~ 3 cm, it can be transplanted.