The shoulder of a suit is the most important part, because the shoulder is closest to your face, which determines the first impression of others on your face. Another reason is that almost all other parts of the coat start from the shoulders.

The first factor is the width. The shoulder can accurately extend to the deltoid muscle, not more than half an inch at most.

The second thing to consider is the shoulder line. There are many kinds of shoulder lines, which can be straight, square or concave (also called "shoulder swing" or "pagoda shoulder"). The curve moves down from the collar, rises at the edge, and can also be inclined downward or even slightly convex.

The third thing to consider is shoulder pads. Square, concave, raised and carved shapes all rely on shoulder pads to achieve corresponding effects. Downward sloping shoulders need slender and soft shoulder pads, and only a little can achieve unexpected results.

Step 2 cut the armhole of the suit

Men's suits have armholes under the shoulders, which tailors call armholes. Most men are used to wide armholes, and the armholes of most suits are very large, exaggeratedly as big as the Dutch Strait, because men feel too comfortable. However, men who can dress up tend to prefer the holes in small sleeve, because the holes in small sleeve can make us move more freely, and the other parts of the suit will not slide down because of the arm movements.

Step 3 cut the collar of the suit

Men's suits have collars at the shoulders. Collar is the joint of lapel and collar, and the line separating them is called collar line. This line can be very high, at the clavicle or slightly upward; Or very low, down to the chest.

4, suit lapel cutting

Cutting of lapel width. A good lapel is wide enough to cover half of the chest. Tailors in Sav-ileRow generally prefer narrow lapels, while those in Naples are wider.

Cut (seam) of lapel edge. The edge of lapel can be straight, convex (the tailor calls it "belly effect") or even slightly concave.

The cutting of lapels. Lapel can have no notch (green collar) or slide down from the collar to form a V-shaped neckline. V-shaped notch generally has a larger inclination and a larger bottom notch, but it can also be a smaller notch, which is the so-called "fishmouth effect".

But if the neckline is too high, the opening will become a straight line and even rise; If the neckline is too low, the effect may make people look sad and listless, so the safest way is to use a medium neckline.

5, suit chest cut

The chest of a suit can be convex, tight, drooping or neat.

Tight and thin chest design. The chest fabric of this suit is tightly attached to your torso.

Protruding chest design. The elegant curve from armhole to waist will highlight your chest.

Pendant chest design pendant refers to the use of extra cloth in the depressed part of the chest below the clavicle, and the clothes are flat and slightly wrinkled.

6, suit waist cutting

The position of the waistline of the suit. The waistline of a suit can be higher or lower than the actual waistline of the wearer. The waistline of a suit. Waist circumference can be straight, pointed or round like an hourglass. In addition, the waistline can be very short and suddenly closed, or it can be very long, giving people a very natural feeling, and the narrow part is only a few inches.

How to highlight the waistline of a suit? If it is cut, you need to put an interlining on your chest. More importantly, pleating (that is, exaggerating chest circumference and hip circumference) can create a so-called "small narrow waist". Specifically, it is to make an incision on both sides of the lower part of the chest of the coat, stuff some cloth into the clothes along the edge of the incision, and sew the clothes with an internal needle.

7. Button point of suit

The height of the waist of a suit determines the position of the button, which is generally called "button position". What really plays a fixing role is the waist button (one in the middle of a three-button coat or one on a two-button coat). The position of the waist buckle is called the "buckle point".

The most natural button of a suit is half of the coat, but if it looks too high in the middle, the general practice is to measure half of the measured length from the collar to the bottom edge along the midline, then subtract about 1 inch (which can be lengthened or shortened according to the height), and then measure the points from the front bottom edge of the coat.

8. Cut the hem of the suit

The hem of a single-breasted suit can be straight down or slightly bulging, and the hem of a double-breasted coat is best straight down.