Persimmon likes full sunshine and a warm and humid environment, but it is also resistant to drought and cold. It grows best in deep, fertile and well-drained soil. Since the roots of persimmon trees contain tannins, it is difficult to heal wounds. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant them into pots after the leaves fall in autumn or early winter to facilitate wound healing and spring growth. If you are in a cold area, you should transplant it in spring to avoid freezing damage

1. Light temperature:

Potted persimmons can be maintained in a sunny and well-ventilated place. If there is insufficient light, , will cause insufficient branches, poor root growth, incomplete flower bud differentiation, and sparse flowering and fruit setting. In winter, they should be placed in a cold room with sufficient sunlight or outdoors in a sheltered and sunny place to overwinter. There should be a low-temperature dormancy period of no less than 36 days and below 10°C to ensure that the plants are dormant and beneficial to the growth of the next year.

2. Water and fertilizer management:

The pot soil should be kept moist without water accumulation. Excessive drought and long-term water accumulation are not conducive to the normal growth of plants. Apply decomposed thin liquid fertilizer every 15 to 20 days, and stop fertilizing after mid-September. During the period from flowering to fruit setting, water and fertilizer should be controlled to avoid excessive branch growth to promote flower bud differentiation.

After fruit setting, resume watering and fertilizing, and add appropriate amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers until the fruits are colored. For plants with weak growth and more fruit setting, a solution of urea plus potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be sprayed on the leaves every 15 days or so from July to August to make the plants grow strong. After the fruit is picked, an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer should be buried in the pot.

3. Pruning and shaping:

Carry out pruning and shaping in winter to remove weak branches and overlapping branches to increase ventilation and light transmittance in the chamber, but too many thinning branches will The remaining branches rapidly lengthen and become bald. And shortening the 2 to 3 nodes at the end of the branches can promote fruit setting on the fruit branches. Therefore, the two should be combined during pruning to promote the formation of short branch groups and a compact crown.

4. Topping and pollination:

In summer, weak branches on the backbone branches inside and outside the crown and buds at the cutting edge should be removed promptly. For vigorously growing new shoots, they can be removed before and after the flowering period Leave branches of appropriate length and then topping them to encourage secondary branches to form flower buds in the current year and fruit-bearing branches in the second year. In order to preserve flowers and fruits, vigorously growing plants can also be peeled in half from late May to early June. Artificial pollination is carried out during the peak flowering period, and 10 to 15 days before flowering, any flower buds other than 2 to 3 buds upward from the base of the fruiting branch are removed.

5. Vegetable and fruit management:

After physiological fruit drop, fruit thinning is carried out. Each fruiting mother branch retains 2 to 3 fruiting branches, and each fruiting branch retains 2 to 3 fruiting branches. 3 fruits.

After the fruit is colored, some old leaves and branches that affect the appearance can be removed to maintain the graceful shape of the tree