Greenhouse grape cultivation techniques 1, planting and framing: (1) The planting period is from early April to early May. First, soak the grape seedlings in water for a day, and then cut off the moldy roots for planting. The planting distance depends on the frame. Generally, the row spacing (frame spacing) of hedgerows is 1.5 ~ 2m, and the plant spacing is 0. Single-sided scaffolding row spacing of 3 meters, plant spacing of 0.8 ~ 1 m; The row spacing of double-sided scaffolding is 5m, and the plant spacing is 0.8 ~1m. When planting, the hole dug is 40-50 cm in diameter and 40-50 cm in depth. Generally, 50 ~ 60 kilograms of organic fertilizer is applied to each pit, and the seedling nodes are higher than the surface. The distance between the planting hole and the frame column is 0.5m.. After planting, water is poured quickly, and the soil is cultivated the next day, leaving a bud outside. When the rest are cultivated in the soil, spread the soil bags flat. When the connector is exposed, remove the binding tape. (2) Rack ① Hedgerow frame: north-south direction, with one column every 4-5m, column height1.5-1.8m, and frame spacing1.5-2m. (2) Single-sided inclined scaffold (small scaffold), 1 column, with two rows of columns at intervals of 3 ~ 4m, the front column height 1.8-2m, the rear column height 1 ~ 1.5m, and the spacing between two rows of columns is 2m, and then a line is drawn at intervals of 40 ~ 50cm. (3) Single-sided horizontal scaffolding is also two rows of columns, but the difference is that the height of the two rows of columns is the same, which is about1.8m. (4) Three rows of columns are double-sided scaffolding, the middle column is 2 ~ 2.2m high, and the columns on both sides are1.5m high and 4m wide. Grapes are planted on both sides and grow in opposite directions. The hedge frame has the best light, but the double-sided shed frame has poor light reception. In our province, the north-south direction of the hedge frame is the best. 2. Grape shaping and pruning (1) shaping ① Multi-main vine sector: suitable for hedges. In the first year after planting, when the new shoots grow to about 10cm, they are picked and the lateral branch technique is popularized. When there are 3-4 branches, they can be used as main stems. After the new buds germinate, leave a leaf at the top L ~ 2 nodes to remove the core, and remove the rest. Pick the core of the main vines in August, and leave a few nodes for 3 ~ 4 main vines when they are mature in autumn for planting in the morning. In the second year, the winter buds on the main vine can be used as fruiting branches, and one leaf is left at the top L ~ 2 nodes of the summer buds, and the rest are removed. The main vine and fruiting branches are cored in mid-August, and then pruned in autumn, leaving a few nodes in the mature nodes of the long branches of the main vine, and the fruiting branches can be pruned with medium and short branches, so that the tree basically ends in two years. In the spring of the third year, after removing the cold-proof soil, it was put on the shelves in time and tied with wire. The work after germination is mainly to wipe the bud and treat the auxiliary tip. In summer, not only the secondary branches are treated, but also the tendrils are removed, and the fruiting branches are continuously picked, and 3 to 5 leaves above the top ear are left before removal. It can ensure the maturity and firmness of the ear and the quality of winter buds. The main branches can be picked in August. In autumn, the middle and short branches of fruiting branches should be trimmed, and the main vines should be trimmed or retracted, and 7 ~ 9 buds should be reserved. At the same time, pay attention to the regeneration of fruiting branches to prevent the fruiting parts from moving out, pruning the middle branches of vigorous fruiting branches and slightly pruning the weak ones. If there are too many bearing branches, short branches can be pruned to reduce the burden. (2) In the first year of planting, leave two main vines as main vines and one bud as auxiliary vines. In the second year, the winter buds on the main vine germinated and produced fruiting branches. Prune the fruiting branches with short scissors in autumn, leaving two buds. After a few years, they will be like dragonflies, and the management of other coring and auxiliary branches will be the same. It is characterized by being put on the shelves early, which is suitable for rootstocks with underdeveloped roots and also suitable for large scaffolding. (2) Pruning: ① Achievement technology update: single branch update: namely middle tip pruning; Regeneration of two branches: pruning short branches, pulling out two new branches in the second year of pruning, thinning out the external new branches in autumn after fruiting, and pruning two buds in the internal new branches. In this way, the two branches are regenerated. (2) The regeneration of main vine utilizes the new branches produced by the hidden buds at the lower part, and the branches produced by the prepared buds can be cultivated into fruiting branches to prevent the lower part from being empty; The roots and tillers of Vitis amurensis can be used for grafting. Local renewal of main vine: when the main vine is injured or has bald parts, it should be taken back and renewed. (3) Brushing buds, removing vines and thinning fruits: in the germination stage, when a bud eye grows several buds, one robust bud is left and the others are removed. When tendrils appear, they should be removed in time to reduce nutrient consumption. For varieties with large ears, leave one ear and fruit branches, otherwise leave two ears. (4) Picking main vines and fruiting branches. The main vine is picked in August, and 5 ~ 6 leaves are left on the fruit ear of the bearing branch. ⑤ For the treatment of secondary branches, the secondary needles at the lower part of the vegetative branches and the fruiting branches are all removed, and a leaf is left at the upper L ~ 2 secondary branches for coring. ⑥ If it is slightly new and slightly longer than 20crn, it should be slightly tied to prevent cracking and increase lighting and ventilation. ⑦ When the sprouting tillers of Vitis amurensis appear, they will be picked if they don't want to use them, and the cultivated varieties will be rooted when they take root. 3. Soil, fertilizer and water management (1) Soil management At present, the soil management of greenhouse grapes mostly adopts clear tillage system, which often keeps the soil loose and free of weeds. After each surface irrigation, intertillage the soil with a depth of 10- 15 cm. In order to promote the early maturity of fruits, plastic film mulching should be advocated. After plastic film mulching, the ground temperature can be increased by 3-6℃, which has obvious functions of heat preservation, moisture retention, soil nutrition improvement, weed growth inhibition and pest reduction. (2) The decomposition and fertility of organic fertilizer in protected field is faster than that in open field. The high ion concentration in the soil will inhibit the growth of plants, and ammonia and nitrite gas produced by fertilizer decomposition will easily gather in the shed, which will often bring disadvantages to the growth of grapes. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizer should be appropriate. Organic fertilizer must be decomposed. Fertilization advocates formula fertilization and balanced fertilization; More nitrogen fertilizer is needed in the early stage and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is needed in the later stage. The application of organic fertilizer should be fully decomposed, and chemical fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea, potassium nitrate, calcium superphosphate, etc. ) can also be mixed into organic fertilizer, and it is best to use biological (nitrogen-fixing bacterial fertilizer, yield-increasing bacterial fertilizer, biological potassium fertilizer, enzyme bacterial fertilizer, etc. ), can be used as base fertilizer, topdressing and foliar fertilizer. A. The best period for applying base fertilizer during fertilization is from harvest to defoliation (September ~ 65438+1October). Topdressing on the ground is mostly in several key periods, such as before germination, before flowering, after fruit setting, before maturity and after harvest. B. Fertilization amount ① According to the yield, fertilization is needed to produce 100 kg fruit, in which N: O.5 ~ 1.5 kg, P: O.4 ~ L.5 kg and K: 0.25-L.25 kg. (2) The basal fertilizer is 2 years old, and each plant is applied with 20 kg of soil fertilizer, 3 kg of human excrement and 0.3 kg of plant ash; Five-year-old, 50 kg soil fertilizer, 8 kg human excrement per plant, plant ash 1.0 kg; Born in 10, each plant has 100 kg of soil fertilizer, 20 kg of human excrement and 2.0 kg of plant ash. C. Fertilization method: The greenhouse grape is ditched at the lower side of the planting boundary, from shallow to deep, and it is expanded year by year. Hedge grapes should be dug on both sides of the planting boundary. Open a ditch (50-60 cm deep and 30-40 cm wide) or dig a pit (hole depth 10-40 cm, hole diameter 10-30 cm) on both sides or one side of the row (once every two years). For vineyards with an average yield of 2000 kg per mu, 5000 kg of high-quality organic fertilizer, 0/00 kg of calcium superphosphate/kloc and 0/00 kg of plant ash/kloc should be applied. Base fertilizer is mixed with soil or applied in layers, and then raw soil is backfilled on the surface, compacted and irrigated. (3) Irrigation A. During irrigation, the room temperature is stable above 10℃, and the soil temperature of 20 cm is above 12℃. A small amount of water irrigation will promote orderly germination, in May. The growth rate of new shoots is above 10 cm, which can be irrigated with large amount of water to promote the growth, flowering and fruit setting of new shoots. It will be in June. The young fruit expansion period is the key period of grape water demand, which needs timely water supply to promote the growth of new shoots and strains and the young fruit expansion, in the middle and late June. After defoliation, defoliation and pruning, irrigate 1 time for water permeability to facilitate overwintering. B, irrigation methods Every irrigation is based on infiltrating 40-60 cm deep soil. Most irrigation methods are surface irrigation (furrow irrigation and border irrigation), but infiltration irrigation and drip irrigation are advocated, which not only saves water, but also reduces excessive humidity in the shed. C. Appropriate irrigation amount should make the rhizosphere soil moisture reach about 80% of the maximum field capacity. When the plants are not heated before and after sunrise, the irrigation time is appropriate. It is not suitable for irrigation when the light is strong and the room temperature is the highest. Because the root activity of grape is the most vigorous at noon, irrigation with low-temperature water will damage the root system, reduce the absorption function, and cause physiological drought in the aboveground part of the plant. There is too much rain in autumn, so drainage should be carried out and ditches should be used for drainage. 4. Flower and fruit management In order to improve the commodity characteristics and market competitiveness of grapes, it is necessary to strengthen flower and fruit management to achieve the goal of stable production and high efficiency. (1) Improve the fruit setting rate For varieties with low fruit setting rate, the following methods should be adopted to improve the fruit setting rate and ensure the yield of the year. A, spray 0.2%-0.3% boric acid or 0.2% borax solution on leaves and inflorescences about 10 days before spraying boron flowers, once every 5-7 days and twice. Or spraying 0.2% ~ 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate 1-2 times can increase the flower setting rate by about 15%. B, pinch the spike tip, pinch off the spike and inflorescence tip 1/3- 1/5, and then remove the spike and flowering period. In this way, the fruit setting rate of Kyoho, Fujiminori and other grapes can be significantly improved, and the fruit grains are enlarged, neat and high-quality. C, sparse inflorescences, that is, in order to save nutrition and ensure the normal development of inflorescences and fruits, remove excessive inflorescences from fruit branches. The method is to remove inflorescences with poor development, improper position and excessive density. General weak branches (diameter; 1 cm) can leave 2 inflorescences. The principle of keeping inflorescence is to keep small and big, weak and strong. In order to save flowering time, it should be carried out from now until flowering, and it should be thinned in batches for safety and reliability. D, after removing the secondary ear and pinching the ear tip, some varieties with sparse ear need to adjust the ear position. Thinning ears on 10- 15 days after flowering determines the yield according to the size of fruit set and ear: strong fruit branches have 2 ears, medium fruit branches 1 ear, and weak fruit branches do not bear ears. Finally, it is advisable to leave 4-6 ears per square meter for 2-year-old grapes and 5-8 ears for perennial grapes. (2) In addition to strengthening fertilizer and water management, ensuring nutrient supply, controlling vigorous growth, and preventing or reducing useless consumption, the measures to increase fruit grains are as follows: a. girdling the trunk and main vine at a distance of 0.5 cm from the ground 20-25 days after girdling (1-2 branches should be left after girdling), and girdling the base of the bearing mother branch of the long branch. After girdling, the nutrient accumulation and supply are good, the single grain weight of mature fruit increases by about 30%, and the soluble sugar increases by about 10%. B, spraying hormones at flowering stage, dipping or spraying 50 mg/kg gibberellin and 5- 10 mg/kg cytokinin on inflorescence, or spraying grape swelling agent at 15 after fruit setting and 40 days before fruit ripening. Both have the effect of increasing fruit size. After flowering 15 ~ 20 days, the grape ears were dipped (or sprayed) with 10 mg/kg solution, and the fruit grains increased by about 30%. When seedless grapes were treated with the above concentration on the 5th and 20th day after flowering, the number of fruit grains could be increased by more than 1 fold. After anthesis 12 ~ 15 days, the ear of gibberellin seedless grape was soaked (sprayed) with 50 g/kg solution, and the fruit grains increased by nearly 1 fold. After cytokinin blooms 10- 12 days, soaking (or spraying) pueraria lobata with this solution of 5- 10 mg/kg can increase the fruit grain weight by 20%-30%. (3) Seedless treatment of gibberellin According to Liu Ning and others, Kyoho varieties were soaked in 25mg/kg gibberellin solution in full bloom, and treated with the same concentration after 10 ~ 15 days/time. The seedless rate of grape reached 97%, the maturity was advanced by 15-20 days, and the soluble solid content was increased by 2%. (4) Ear bagging is an indispensable measure to produce high-quality, famous-brand and "green" edible grapes. The advantages of bagging are: First, it reduces the harm of pests and diseases, and the good fruit rate is close to 100%, which is free from the harm of birds and bees and pesticide pollution, which is beneficial to the production of pollution-free grapes. Secondly, bagged grapes have smooth fruit surface, increased sugar content by 2%-3%, rich flavor, tender pulp, good commodity and high price. Thirdly, the storage resistance is improved. Grapes ripen in 20-25 days after bagging, which can avoid the peak of sales, prolong the storage period and lose less water due to falling grains. The bagging techniques are as follows: (1) The bagging period is about 1 week, and the fruit ears are arranged, and the varieties that are easy to get sunburned are carried out in the fruit softening period. (2) Spraying fungicides (Sheng Da M-45 or thiophanate-methyl, carbendazim, etc. ) Before bagging, the liquid medicine can be bagged after drying. (3) Choose a paper bag with a length of 35 cm and a width of 25 cm, and hold about 2000 grams of spikes. At present, there are Kobayashi bags made in Japan, Jiatian bags made in China and Longkou bags. It is best to use pure white polyethylene paper bags for Kyoho grapes, transparent cellophane for red varieties and newspaper bags. (4) Bagging method Spread out the paper bag by hand, pick up the ear of fruit with your right hand and gently put it into the bag, so that the ear of fruit is placed in the center of the paper bag. Then dimerize the bag, tie it tightly at the base of the fruit stalk, and then tie it firmly on the side of the paper bag with iron wire. If there is no iron wire, plastic rope can be tied around the fruit stalk for 2 weeks to prevent insects from entering. Both sides of the lower mouth of the bag are open, and only the middle 1/3 is bonded together. Note that all bagging should be done at night, otherwise it is easy to burn. (5) Picking bags 3-5 days before picking Jingya grapes, and picking bags in batches before 10 in the morning and after 4 pm. 5. Temperature and humidity management is mainly based on heat preservation in April. The temperature at night shall not be lower than 5℃, and the optimum temperature during the day shall be 25℃ ~ 28℃. After mid-May, it can be windproof. At this time, the temperature should not be higher than 35℃, and the temperature should be released to cool down. Heat preservation should be continued in late August, mainly to prevent night frost, extend the growing period as much as possible, and let the grapes fully mature. Temperature and humidity management in each growth period: (1) The period from temperature rise to germination of grapes is called germination period. In the first week of this period, low temperature management should be carried out, which should be maintained at about 20℃ during the day and 5 ~ 10℃ at night. After one week, a layer of paper should be covered to increase the thermal insulation effect, and the temperature should be gradually raised to 28 ~ 30℃ during the day and kept at 13 ~ 15℃ at night, and the air humidity should be above 90% during germination. (2) In order to fully differentiate the floral organs of the grape after germination in the growth period of the new shoots before flowering, it is necessary to control the excessive growth of the new shoots, so it is appropriate to reduce the temperature from the high position at the end of germination, and keep it at 25 ~ 28℃ during the day and about 65438 05℃ at night. When the new buds spread 6 ~ 7 leaves, we should make full use of sunny days to make the leaves fully exercised. At this time, the daytime temperature is 28℃, which should not exceed 30℃, and the air humidity should be kept at about 60%. (3) The temperature requirements of grape flowering period vary from variety to variety, but most varieties need a relatively high temperature environment for pollination and fertilization. During this period, the temperature should be kept at about 28℃, at night at 16 ~ 18℃, and the humidity should be controlled at about 50%. (4) In order to promote the expansion and growth of young fruits during the fruit expansion period, the night temperature at this stage can be appropriately increased, which can be kept at 18 ~ 20℃ and should not exceed 20℃. During the day, the temperature is kept at 25 ~ 28℃ and the air humidity is 50% ~ 60%. (5) During the coloring to maturity, pay attention to ventilation and cooling during the day, and keep it at 28 ~ 30℃, about 65438 05℃ at night, and the air humidity is 50% ~ 60%. 6. Gas conditions and adjustment (1) Supplementing CO2 and applying organic fertilizer in protected areas, using CO2 generators, and mainly using greenhouse gas fertilization devices and CO2 generators in China. (2) Prevent the generation of harmful gases. The harmful gases that may be produced in the nature reserve are ammonia (NH3) and nitrogen dioxide (NO2) produced by excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer; Sulfur dioxide (SO2) is produced during the decomposition of manure cake fertilizer, carbon monoxide (CO) is the incomplete combustion of coal, and ethylene and chlorine come from toxic plastics. In order to prevent the harm of this gas, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied less every time, and it is best to mix more calcium superphosphate and water after application; When NO2 is in danger, applying lime can prevent it from volatilizing and make it burn fully. Strengthen the ventilation technology of protected areas and choose safe and non-toxic agricultural films. 1 000 kg organic matter can finally be released 1 500 kg CO2 CO2. 7. Rational Intercropping In order to improve the economic benefits of greenhouses, space and open space should be rationally used in the early stage, and comprehensive planting and three-dimensional cultivation should be implemented. For example, strawberries, vegetables and gastrodia elata are planted between rows, and potted crops and flower seedlings are hung in spaces such as the north wall. (1) Intercropping strawberries before winter, after pruning the vines, the rows are temporarily empty. This is the end of 10. Fertilize between rows, dig deep, rake evenly, fine clods, make ridges with a width of 45-50 cm, and cover them with plastic film. Then, the strawberry stolon seedlings with well differentiated flower buds in the open field are moved to the ridge and planted at the plant spacing of 15-20 cm. After planting, a few new leaves can grow in a short time by watering the foot root water, and after a short period of seedling stagnation, they enter the dormancy period. In spring, with the increase of temperature and ground temperature in the reserve, strawberries also began to sprout and grow, flowering in mid-March and maturing in late April. After harvesting, the strawberry plants were dug out and moved to the field to continue seedling breeding, and then moved to the greenhouse in late June at 65438+ 10. Strawberry management and grape synchronization. (2) Intercropping vegetables should choose more shade-tolerant and short vegetables, such as celery, kohlrabi, rape, lettuce, radish, garlic seedlings, etc. Arrange stubble as closely as possible. 8. The grapes in the anti-freezing and anti-freezing greenhouse were removed from the shelves in early June 5438+065438+ 10. Before the cold current comes, we should bury them to prevent freezing. Grapes picked from the shelf can be gathered with ropes and then covered with straw curtains or bales to prevent frost. When the temperature reaches below zero, they should be buried, usually in the first half of June 165438+ 10, and pruned in autumn. The next spring, when the straw bag is left (if there is no straw bag, you can remove a small layer first). When the average temperature reaches 8 ~ 10℃ in early April, it should be completely removed. When laying soil, be careful not to break branches and vines to avoid bleeding and death.