Current location - Plastic Surgery and Aesthetics Network - Plastic surgery and medical aesthetics - Grape planting and seasonal pruning management techniques
Grape planting and seasonal pruning management techniques
Grapes have a high demand for water, and strictly controlling the water in the soil is the premise of planting grapes well. Grapes need more water in the early growth stage or vegetative growth stage, and less water in the late growth stage or fruiting stage, so it is necessary to avoid damaging the root system so as not to affect the quality. How about the management techniques of grape planting and seasonal pruning? Let me tell you how to grow grapes. For learning reference only.

Grape planting management technology

(A) Garden selection

1. Geographical location

Harmony grapes, commonly known as "ping pong grapes", are suitable all over the country. It can be planted on barren hills, floodplains and scattered land. Choose a place with a large planting area: close to the consumer market and convenient transportation.

2. Topography and landforms

The slope of the mountain should be less than 15 degrees, and the groundwater level in the plain should be below 0.8 meters. Avoid building gardens in low-lying fields and choose plots with relatively high terrain and convenient irrigation and drainage. Grape is a light fruit tree, so the south slope facing the sun should be chosen.

3. Soil and water sources

It has strong adaptability to soil, and can be planted except in heavy saline-alkali soil, but sandy loam and loam with a large amount of organic matter with a P value of 5.5-7 are the most suitable. Red and yellow soil tombs and sand gardens can only be planted after the soil is improved. The location of water source should also be considered in choosing the garden to ensure dry irrigation and waterlogging drainage.

(2) Planting specifications

1. Planting density

Every 667m2 150- 180 plants.

2. Planting frame

The suitable racks for harmonious grapes are hedge racks and three-dimensional racks, among which the three-dimensional rack is the best.

(1) Three-dimensional frame, plant spacing 1.3- 1.5m, row spacing of 4-5m, combined every two rows, combined spacing 1.5m. Three-dimensional frame is flat-topped and stacked. Height of flat-top shelf 1.8? 2 meters. The height of cascade front frame is 2.2-2.4m, and the height of rear frame is 1.5? 1.8m. After colonial 3? After four years, the result is a hedge, and then the hedge and the shed form a three-dimensional result. The advantages of three-dimensional frame are: it has the comprehensive advantages of shed frame and hedge frame, early fruiting, large space nutrition area and high yield per unit area.

(2) Hedge frame, the frame surface height is 1.8-2m, the row spacing is 2.25-2.5m, and the plant spacing is about1.5m. A column is erected every 4m, and 3-4 wires are hung. The advantages are good ventilation, sufficient illumination and convenient cultivation operation.

(3) Scaffolding materials and scaffolding, reinforced concrete columns are used to erect grape trellis columns, with a diameter of 10cm x 12cm, a length of 1.4m x 2.6m and a buried depth of 60cm. For example, the side column of the stay wire should be thickened to 12 cm X 14 cm, with a length of 3m and an outward inclination of 30 degrees, and reinforced with anchor stones. The scaffold surface is arranged in a square of about 40 cm with iron wires or bamboo poles.

3. Line direction

The direction should be consistent with the perennial wind direction, and the north-south direction is better, which can not only improve the ventilation conditions, but also reduce the harm of wind.

(3) Planting

1. Planting time

Harmony grapes can be planted in spring and autumn, because of agricultural relations, most of them are planted in spring. It should be planted in February in spring, so that when the ground temperature rises, the root system of the grape will start to move and the bud eye will germinate soon. Spring sowing shall not exceed the middle of March at the latest (bud eye germination period); Autumn sowing time is about 50 days before defoliation. After planting, watering in time to keep soil moisture is beneficial to the recovery of seedlings.

2. Selection and pruning of seedlings

Try to choose strong first-class seedlings as far as possible. Before planting, the main lateral roots and fine roots damaged by machinery should be pruned properly, but excessive pruning should be avoided to ensure the integrity of seedling roots as much as possible.

3. Prepare soil and dig ditches (holes)

Before planting, we should do a good job of ditching, digging ditches and making holes for planting. A garden with sandy soil structure can be built at 60? 80 centimeters wide. It is best to use furrow planting in gardens with sticky texture and red and yellow soil hilly land, because furrow planting can drain water well and play a role in drought resistance and drainage. The ditch is 60-80 cm deep and 80 cm wide. 100 cm. Topsoil and deep soil taken out during excavation are placed on both sides of the upper part of the ditch. For the garden with thin soil layer and hard bottom soil, it is necessary to use high ridge planting, with a height of 25 cm and a width of 100- 120 cm.

4. Apply sufficient base fertilizer

Apply 5000 kg of high-quality organic fertilizer (mainly compost or manure) and 50 kg of calcium superphosphate (calcium magnesium phosphate for red and yellow soil structure) with an area of 667 square meters. The ditch (hole) is planted at the bottom and filled with about 20 cm of garbage or weeds, straw and other materials, which is practical. Then, the organic fertilizer, phosphate fertilizer and topsoil are evenly mixed or filled in layers, and then made into ridges with a height of 15 cm and a width of 100 cm for planting. When applying fertilizer, do not apply fertilizer within 30 cm from the border to avoid burning the roots and killing the seedlings. For high border planting, first apply sufficient organic fertilizer and phosphate fertilizer on the surface of soil layer, then dig the soil deeply, and then make it 25 cm high. 100? Planting 120 cm wide border.

Step 5: Field planting.

Dig a hole at a fixed point according to the planting distance, cultivate the soil while planting, and gently lift the seedlings at the same time, so that the soil can enter the root system as much as possible, then cultivate the soil and compact it, and then water it, and master the principle of shallow planting, so that the old stubble is exposed to the ground for 3-5 cm.

6. Plastic film mulching after planting

Covering grape plants with plastic film after planting can take advantage of its advantages of warming, water and fertilizer conservation, promote early rooting and more rooting, and accelerate the recovery of root growth activities.

The application effect of this method in practice is quite remarkable, but in use, we must do the following:

(1) After mulching with plastic film, it is necessary to seal the crevasse in the rhizosphere with soil to prevent a large amount of rainwater from entering. If you can cover the plastic shed on the plastic film, the effect will be better (cover it in rainy days and dismantle it in sunny days).

(2) The plastic film coverage area of each seedling should be above 1 m2, and it is better to cover the whole border, which can not only keep moisture, fertilizer and water, but also avoid root rot caused by excessive soil water capacity in rainy years.

(3) After the cold air in spring, when the temperature rises too high (sometimes the temperature in the plastic film is above 40~C), it is necessary to cover the plastic film with mulch such as weeds in the distribution range of roots to avoid scalding young roots, because the optimum temperature for root growth is 22? 23。

(4) The time for uncovering the film should generally be before the local temperature is relatively stable and there is a short-term high temperature in spring. Don't uncover the film before the arrival of cold air, otherwise the new tender roots will be damaged because they can't adapt to the rapid change of temperature, which will affect the healthy growth of grape plants.

7. Preventive measures

(1) Choose sunny and dry weather for planting. Harmony varieties have many fine roots and clumps. Planting in rainy days or immediately after rain will often affect the normal growth of roots and the survival rate is not high.

(2) Padding sand and covering sand should be planted in red and yellow loam with sticky weight and loam, which is beneficial to root growth. The method is to spread a layer of river sand of 1 cm on the bottom of the cave, evenly distribute the roots of the seedlings on the sand, then spread a layer of sand on the roots to make them invisible, and then cultivate the soil and tamp them.

(3) Ditch planting or hole planting should not be used in rainy areas in southern China in early spring and summer, otherwise ditch planting or hole planting will become a "reservoir" when there is little rain, which will cause root rot of Rhizopus and affect the survival rate.

Summer pruning of grapes

Pruning in summer is very important in grape cultivation. Through this work, we can adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting in time, improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and reduce pests and diseases; It is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds, promoting the full development of fruit ears and grains, ensuring that branches and fruits can mature in time and fully, and creating good conditions for the fruits of the current year and the following year. Pruning grapes in summer is a highly technical job, and young trees and fruit trees adopt different methods.

(1) Prune young trees in summer

Doing a good job of pruning young trees in the summer of the year of planting can make Harmony grapes bear fruit early and ensure a certain high yield in the second year after planting. The specific method is:

1. Wipe the bud

Time is when the buds can be distinguished. Leave the strong to the weak, leave the strong buds to grow close to the ground, and erase the rest.

Remove tendrils

Tendrils are harmful and useless under artificial cultivation, hinder plant growth and consume nutrients, so they should be pulled out in time when they are young.

Pick a heart

When the young tree grows to 8- 10 leaves, it should be cored for the first time. After that, except one secondary branch at the top, all other secondary branches should be erased and cultivated into a main vine. After the vines are fixed, they should be tied tightly in time (but not too tightly). When the top secondary tip reaches 10? 12 leaves, second coring. After this coring, except for a pair of new buds at the top, all the other pairs of new buds remain 1? Two leaves were repeatedly pitted. However, in the rainy season, it is necessary to leave more leaves and pick cores to ease the tree potential, prevent the winter buds of the main vines from sprouting due to excessive rain, and ensure that they can bear fruit in the next year. After the second coring, when the main vine grows to about 1.6 m, core again. After that, leave 2-3 secondary tips at the top, 4? Five leaves were cored repeatedly, and at the beginning of 10, all the growing points were cored again, and the young trees were pruned in summer.

Summer pruning of fruit trees

Results Tree pruning in summer included bud wiping, shoot fixing, coring and vine pruning, aiming at preserving and concentrating tree nutrients, improving ventilation and light transmission conditions and ensuring high yield in that year.

1. Wipe the bud

The purpose of bud wiping is to ensure the ventilation and light transmission of the shelf surface and the full development and maturity of branches, vines, flowers and fruits.

(1) time: several times after germination in early April.

(2) Bud coating method

① All adventitious buds on rhizosphere and old vines should be removed except for regenerating vines and filling gaps. (2) For budding the fruiting mother branch, the number of main buds needed for sprouting new shoots should be determined according to the thickness of the main vine and the number of new shoots required for the predetermined yield, and the weak buds at the base, the upward or downward growing buds and all the auxiliary buds should be erased, and the diseased buds should be thinned out at a certain distance. Only when the fruiting branches germinated by the main buds are insufficient, some relatively robust secondary buds are reserved to extract fruiting branches and ensure a certain amount of fruiting. ③ The degree of budding must be properly controlled, and it should not be too heavy at first, otherwise it will cause new shoots to flourish, leading to falling flowers and hanging fruit. Strong trees and young trees can germinate later, while weak trees and old trees should germinate earlier.

Fixed tip

(1) prompts for a fixed time, divided into two times. Inflorescence appears on the new shoot for the first time, which can be distinguished from fruiting branches and vegetative branches. The second time was before spending 5? 7 days or coring at the same time with new shoots.

(2) The number of fixed branches depends on the expected yield, and a certain proportion of fruiting branches and non-fruiting new branches are guaranteed, with more trees and fewer young trees, and the proportion of fruiting branches is slightly larger than that of preparing branches. The fruiting branches are basically left once every 15-20 cm.

(3) Branch fixing method: The first branch fixing is mainly to remove the vegetative branches, and all the thin, dense and inappropriate branches (back branches and fork branches) and the vegetative branches not used for preparing branches for renewal are removed, while the fruiting branches and the vegetative branches used for replenishing qi are kept. The amount of bamboo shoots removed this time accounts for 70%-80% of the total amount of bamboo shoots removed.

The amount of the second tip fixing finally determines the new tip density on the shelf surface, which makes up for the deficiency of the first tip removal (only 20%-30%). According to the number of new shoots needed, select ideal fruiting branches and vegetative branches for regeneration, and remove fruiting branches with diseases and insect pests, small ear and unreasonable parts. However, in years with insufficient inflorescences, all the fruiting branches should be kept as soon as they see flowers to ensure the yield.

3. The main tip is coring.

The purpose of core removal is to avoid waste and concentrate nutrients for the growth and development of flowers and fruits and the accumulation of nutrients in trees.

(1) coring time: coring the fruiting branches one week before flowering, and preparing the branches from the end of May to the end of June.

(2) coring method

(1) the coring of fruit branches depends on the growth potential, and 6-9 leaves are left on the ear for coring. In principle, leave 6-7 leaves for medium branches and 8 leaves for strong branches. Nine leaves. (2) Prepare branches for coring, and generally leave 8- 10 leaves for coring except extended branches. The coring of main extended long branches can be determined according to specific requirements.

4. Secondary tip treatment

Except for the top 1-2 secondary branch with 3-4 leaves for repeated coring, the other secondary branches are treated by the method of "last leave 1 piece" or "last leave 2 pieces". Take the secondary branches out of the core as soon as possible. The degree of secondary branch treatment should meet the requirement of ensuring the leaf-fruit ratio of Fujiminori grape of 30: 1.

Tie vines

Vines must be tied according to the requirements of plastic surgery. After pruning in winter, the vines need to be knotted. Later, with the growth of new buds, vines will continue to be tied. The method of tying vines adopts the "8" buckle, which should not be too tight to avoid entanglement. The new branches on the preparatory branches are mainly bundled to promote growth, and the new branches on the mother branches regenerated from single branches on the shelf surface should be vertically bundled at the base of the new branches as regenerated branches, except for those with inclined bearing branches.

Remove tendrils

During the whole grape growth period, all tendrils should be removed in time in combination with other cultivation management to save nutrients.

Winter pruning of grapes

(1) pruning time

Like other grapes, the winter pruning of "Harmony Grape" generally occurs from defoliation to bleeding in the second year, and the most suitable period is from June 5438+02 to June 5438+00 in the second year. Too early will affect the nutrient accumulation of trees, and too late will cause a lot of bleeding, leading to plant weakness and affecting flowering and fruiting.

(2) Standards for pruning branches and treetops

1. Short tip pruning

Cut 1-3 sections from the base.

Trim the middle hair tip

Cut 4? Section 7.

3. Long tip pruning

Cut 8? Section 12.

(3) Pruning methods at different ages

1. Plant when pruning young trees in winter.

Pruning and planting young trees in winter should be combined with plastic work. On the basis of pruning in summer, the trees are integrated into a single-tailed dragon trunk. According to the variety characteristics of Harmony grape, and in order to ensure a certain yield in the second year, it is better to use single-petal stem shape in the first year. The length of the cut depends on the thickness of the main vine. For example, when the diameter of the main vine 20 cm above the ground can reach 1.8 and 2.0 cm (as long as the cultivation management is strengthened in the same year, it can generally reach the standard), when pruning in winter, leave full buds of about 15 and cut off the rest. All secondary branches on the main vine must be cut off.

2. Tree pruning in the second year of planting

Use the fruiting branches of the current year to form a fruiting branch group every 20-25 cm. Except that the top fruiting branches are pruned with long branches or super-long branches as extension branches, the other fruiting branches are pruned with short branches and middle branches, with middle branches as the main pruning.

3. Pruning of fruit trees

(1) Pruning principle, since the second year, the tree shape of fruit trees has been basically formed, so the pruning principle in winter is to prune according to the yield. According to the predetermined yield index, the pruning amount is determined and the reasonable number of bearing branches is arranged.

(2) Pruning method, that is, cutting off all the fruit branches that have already borne fruit. Prune short, medium-pointed growth branches, medium-pointed robust branches and short, medium-pointed branches as fruiting branches in the second year. Master the principle of cyclic pruning, re-prune and retract in a planned and purposeful way, re-cultivate fruiting mother branches by using cryptobud germination, and control the upward movement of fruiting parts.

(D) Pruning technology

Identification of 1. Branch quality

High-quality branches should be fully mature, with short internodes, prominent nodes, straight buds, towering, large and full shapes, tightly wrapped scales, brown branches, small pith and round cross section, otherwise they are inferior branches and should not be used as fruiting mother branches.

2. Cutting method

In order to prevent the cut buds from losing water and draining, the distance between the mother branch and the bud heel should be more than 2 cm or broken at the upper part of the bud eye. When shrinking or thinning, generally leave the pile head of 1 cm to prevent damage during thinning.

renewal pruning

Double-branch regeneration: using two mother branches, one long and one short, to form a fruiting branch group, and pruning the long branches in the middle to bear fruit; Short branches are pruned with short branches (leaving two buds) as preparatory branches, and the old branches bear fruit. The short preparatory branches draw out two branches and vines. When pruning in winter, the bearing branches and bearing mother branches are thinned out, and the strong branches drawn out from the preparatory branches are pruned once a year to form a new bearing branch group, which is repeated once a year.

Single-branch regeneration: in winter, only one fruiting mother branch is left, and no backup branch is left. The middle tip is pruned, and horizontal or bow-shaped binding is carried out when binding, and two solid fruiting mother branches extracted from the back are selected for double-branch regeneration.

Tie a vine

The purpose of tying vines is the same as pruning, which generally makes the distribution of mother branches even and reasonable, and makes full use of the shelf surface.

Anyone who has read "Management Techniques of Grape Planting and Seasonal Pruning" has also seen:

1. Lecture on Pruning the Tree of Christ

2. When was the vine planted?

3. In which month is the vine suitable for planting?

4. Grape planting and management technology

5. What are the management points of greenhouse grapes?