Grape pruning:

1. Grape pruning, also known as dormancy pruning, is mainly to ensure a certain number of bud eyes, regulate growth and fruit, so as to ensure good new shoots every year, so as to increase yield and high yield year after year.

Pruning period: generally, it is carried out after defoliation in autumn and before burying the soil for cold protection. For varieties that are not cold-proof and buried in the soil, such as Xiangshan grape, it can be carried out after defoliation and before the next spring juice outflow period (bleeding period).

2. Generally, each square meter of shelf surface can accommodate about 15-20 new shoots, and on this basis, it can be increased or decreased according to the tree potential.

3. Cutting branches and vines to the required length is mainly determined according to the pruning needs and the quality of mature new shoots. Pruning length is generally: short tip, leaving 1-24 knots; Middle tip, leaving 5-7 knots; Long tip, leaving 8- 12 knots. Generally, new branches with mature and strong growth potential can be appropriately cut; The growth potential is weak, the maturity is not good, and the thin ones can be kept short; Varieties with low bearing strength at the base of branches and vines should be trimmed with medium and long shoots; Where the branches and vines are sparse, you can stay for a long time in order to make full use of the space; Summer pruning can be shortened, and for new shoots that are not checked, it is necessary to leave them for a long time.

4. Update pruning: Prune branches and vines that move up or forward too fast, and replace them with mature new branches at or near their bases. Update pruning is divided into single-branch update and double-branch update. Due to improper regeneration or light pruning of single branch, the germination ability of branches and vines is not strong, and it is difficult to form ideal preparatory branches at the base and master them. It is not introduced here, but only two-branch regeneration, which usually consists of a fruiting mother branch and a preparatory branch on a branch group. Results The mother branch was kept long, and the long and middle branches were pruned. The next branch was used as a preparatory branch to cut 2-3 buds, which was repeated every year. This method is reliable and suitable for varieties with weak branching ability.

Pruning and Cultivation Management of Grape

Before the adjustment and planting of the branches and vines, the seedlings are pruned, and the branches and delicate parts at the front end are cut off, and only 2-3 winter buds at the base of the main vine are reserved.

Erase the secondary buds in time after germination, select two robust main buds to continue to grow and cultivate the mother branches. When the new shoots grow to 10- 12 knots, leave 10 leaves for coring. After coring, four leaves are reserved for two new shoots from 1 and the top second node, and two leaves are reserved for two new shoots from the lower third and fourth nodes, and the secondary branches of the remaining lower nodes are erased in time.

Three new shoots were sent, and each 1 new shoot left only two new shoots at the apex, four leaves were left for coring, and the others were erased. When new buds are sprouted many times in the future, this method is still used. For each new shoot, 1 time, only the top two secondary branches are kept, four leaves are removed, and the rest are all erased (Figure 5- 1).

(2) Fertilizer and water management. From April to June, it is necessary to strengthen the management of fertilizer and water, frequently irrigate with small water, combine with watering and topdressing for 2-3 times, and apply 25 grams of potassium sulfate compound fertilizer or 25 grams of urea to each plant to promote strong seedlings; After July, it is necessary to strictly control the water content and reduce the water content of nutrient soil. As long as the leaves don't wilt, don't water them to avoid excessive growth of nutrients and affect flower bud differentiation. (3) Strengthen foliar topdressing, spraying foliar fertilizer once every 7 days, and mixing 0.7% brown sugar solution with "Tianda -2 1 16" for 600- 1000 times, spraying once every 7- 10 days, and spraying continuously for 3-0 days. 0.4% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, 1% calcium superphosphate leaching solution, 0. 1% slight fertilizer, 0. 1% fluorine iodine, 0. 1% rare earth microelement fertilizer, etc. 0.7% brown sugar and 0. 1% can also be added respectively.

(4) pest control, timely spraying to protect leaves, to ensure that leaves are not harmed by pests and diseases. As long as the above four points are achieved, we can cultivate healthy and strong grape seedlings with good flower bud differentiation.

How to prune grapes

Plastic trimming

In hot areas, small sheds or T-hedges are generally used for single stems and fewer main vines. The frame is higher than the ground, which is convenient for ventilation and light transmission and reduces the damage of diseases and ground radiation to leaves and fruits. Pruning is one of the important measures to ensure the output of the year. Winter is conducted after defoliation, with long branches of 8- 12 knots, middle branches of 5-7 knots and short branches of 3- 1 knot. Summer pruning is to remove the redundant buds in the germination stage, and coat a layer of calluses at the pruning mouth. Before flowering, too many inflorescences should be sparse, the big ones should be kept small, and the strong ones should be kept weak. When the branches and vines grow to a certain extent, they should be tied to the surface of the frame, and the tendrils should be removed in time to reduce nutrient consumption. Results 5 ~ 7 leaves were left before the inflorescence to improve the nutritional status. Grape has a high fruit setting rate, so it can be thinned appropriately to make the fruit size uniform, otherwise abnormal fruit and small fruit will appear.

Multiple result branching measure

(1) Use the auxiliary tip to bear fruit many times a year. The tropical climate is warm, the growth period is long, the buds are early, the secondary buds germinate many times, the inflorescence primordium is easy to form, and the grapes can be induced to bear fruit many times a year. Choose suitable varieties, such as Kyoho, white banana and so on. 15- 20 days before flowering, after 4-6 leaves are left on the fruiting vine for coring, 1-2 secondary branches are promoted to germinate at the top, and the rest are erased to form inflorescence primordium; When the secondary tip is 5-6 leaves long, leave 1-2 leaves for forced coring; Secondary buds appear after coring, and when it grows to 3~4 leaves, leave 1 leaf for coring; The secondary branches are treated three times in the same way, and after many times of coring treatment, the secondary branches can bear fruit many times a year.

(2) Artificial defoliation forces new buds to germinate. After the first fruit picking, in August-September, the leaves are pruned and forcibly picked, or 1.035kg/L stone sulfur mixture is sprayed on the branches and leaves, and 1%-5% sodium pentachlorophenol is added to make the leaves fall off. At this time, the temperature is very high, which can make the new buds sprout, blossom and bear fruit that year and mature in the first half of June. Because twice a year, fertilizer and water management should keep up in time.

5. Spraying Guoxing plant nutrients can further improve the yield and quality of grapes. According to the biological and physiological characteristics of grapes, it is the best economic benefit to use it five times in vineyards with good management level in normal years. The five-time use period is:

The first time: in the growth period of new shoots, supplement nutrition, promote the full development of flower organs, reduce residual flowers, overcome the problem that flowers fail to bear fruit or fall off seriously due to insufficient nutrition and poor development, and lay a good foundation for improving fruit setting rate.

The second time: flowering, which can enhance the pollination and fertilization ability and significantly improve the fruit setting rate. Especially for varieties with slow pollen tube elongation such as Kyoho, the effect is more obvious. However, attention should be paid to thinning out too many fruit grains in time to make the whole ear fruit grains even and tidy.

The third and fourth times: the growing period of berries is the key period for the formation of yield and quality. It can improve the physiological function of leaves, speed up the light and speed, promote the accumulation and transformation of photosynthetic products of fruit grains, and promote the early expansion, early coloring and early maturity of fruit grains, thus achieving the goals of high yield, early maturity and high quality.

The fifth time: berry ripening, used when grapes are to be picked, can delay leaf senescence, maintain its high physiological function, delay defoliation, make branches fully mature and restore tree vigor. This is especially important for high-yield orchards and weak-tree orchards.

How to prune grapes in the first year

Hello, I'm glad to answer your question. I hope my answer is helpful to you.

The new shoots begin to grow about a week after the grape seedlings are planted, so the redundant branches and vines should be removed in time and the main shoots should be selected. When the height of seedlings is about 35 cm, tendrils begin to grow. Tendrils should be removed in time, bamboo poles should be inserted and bamboo shoots should be tied in time to ensure the vertical growth of main bamboo shoots.

The first secondary branch leaves 2~3 leaves, and the second secondary branch leaves 1~2 leaves. When the seedling height is 70~80 cm, the core of the main vine is removed, and the top leaves 1 secondary shoot to continue growing.

When the top secondary branch is 50~60 cm long, core the main vine for the second time, and leave 1 secondary branch at the top to prolong the growth, 1~2 pieces for the first secondary branch and 1 piece for the second secondary branch. When the top secondary branch grows to 30 ~ 40cm, the main vine is cored for the third time, and 1 leaf is left in the secondary branch to prevent winter bud germination. Combined with pruning, calluses antiseptic film should be put on the pruning mouth in time to seal the wound, and the whole garden should be sprayed with general tree protector for sterilization and disinfection, so as to reduce the source of germs.

How to prune grapes in the first year

Grape is a water-resistant and fertilizer-tolerant plant, but it happens when it is rainy, hot and humid, and leaves, stems, buds, spikes, fruit stalks and grains are damaged in April-165438+ 10.

Spraying a new high-fat film can form a protective film on the surface of plants, which can prevent the infection of germs and improve the ability to resist natural disasters. The frost layer on the back of grape leaves mainly harms the leaves, causing them to be damaged and fall off early. Select a main vine in the first year of planting, and when it grows to 30 -40 cm high, leave 5-6 leaves for coring; According to this method, the extended branches are repeatedly cored; Secondary branches within the range of 10 cm from the base of the main vine should be smoothed in time, 3-5 robust secondary branches should be selected from the middle and upper parts, and 4-5 leaves should be left for repeated coring; The remaining secondary branches can be re-cored with 1 leaf -2 leaves.

Prune the grapes when they are taken off the shelf in winter, and cut off the main vine for about 1 m; As a result, the secondary branch of the mother branch was pruned by 2-3 short branches; Sparse the remaining secondary tips. In the second year, 6-8 new shoots with fruit ears were selected and tied on a fan-shaped frame.

Leave 6-8 leaves on the ear for coring; Leaves 1 leaves are repeatedly cored at the secondary tip -2 leaves.

How to prune my grapes?

1. "1,3, 6, 9~ 15" The significance of this pruning method is to leave 3 fruiting branches, 6 fruiting mother branches and 9 ~ 12 buds on the canopy surface every1meter.

The long spreading tip of a dragon usually stays in the middle and long tip, and retracts once a year, so choose a protruding tip from the back. In garden cultivation, the number of buds is generally a little more, but not more than 15 buds, that is, "1, 3,6,9 ~15".

2. "1, 2, 1" pruning method is suitable for longan, milk and other varieties. Horizontal scaffolding, single dragon stem shaping, hole spacing 1~ 1.5 meters, 2~3 plants per hole, one dragon vine every 50~60 cm on the frame surface, and the single branch is updated alternately.

The meaning of this method is to leave two short branches (1 ~ 2 nodes) and 1 middle branches on the long vine every1m on the scaffold surface, and trim the long branches spread by the dragon with long branches. There are two dragons per 1m wide shelf, which is equivalent to 14 ~ 20 buds, which is equivalent to 12000 ~ 18000 buds per hectare.

In semi-arid areas, the sunshine is abundant, the grape branches are not easy to grow in vain, the pruning in summer is strictly controlled, and the flower buds at the base buds are often well differentiated. Generally, each ear weighs more than 0.5 kg, and the yield per hectare can be guaranteed to be 30,000 ~ 37,500 kg.

This pruning method is more suitable for young fruit trees. Third, the pruning of trees in full fruit period generally refers to 13~40 years old trees. During this period, the fruit yield of trees increased year by year, and the vegetative growth gradually weakened. If it is not managed properly, it is easy to have years.

Therefore, the main task of pruning is to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, improve lighting conditions, maintain tree potential, and obtain high and stable yield. 4. Pruning of aging trees Trees that are 30 to 40 years old have entered the aging period.

The main task of pruning is to renew and rejuvenate, restore tree vigor, extend the fruiting period as much as possible, and maintain a good yield. In the specific operation, the trunk and lateral branches should be retracted and raised appropriately according to the degree of weakness.

If the central branch group has declined, it should be sawed off from the base to change the crown into a pleasing shape, but the wound should be protected to prevent decay. For aging trees, we should make full use of long branches to cultivate new fruiting branches, at the same time, renew and rejuvenate the original branches, and properly remove too dense flower buds to ensure the vigorous growth of branches.

5. During the budding period from mid-March to early April, it should be cut before flowering. For trees with few flowers, more branches are cut in winter because the flower buds are not recognized. When the flower buds can be clearly identified, the extra branches without flowers should be properly loosened or retracted, so that the inner room can be fully illuminated. For trees with poor varieties, high grafting can be started from liquid flow.

There are some technical materials about grape planting in my space. You can go and have a look.

How to prune grape branches

First, the principle of pruning. Grape is a vine deciduous fruit tree, which needs to be cut once a year in winter when planting. If vines are not pruned for many years, the whole shed will be covered with vines, and the dead branches, over-dense branches, weak branches, slender branches, pests and diseases, and disabled old vines will not be effectively removed, which will disturb the tree shape, affect the ventilation and light transmission between trees, cause the breeding of pests and diseases, and make the flowers and fruits fall off seriously, and there will be no harvest. Grape pruning in winter is to improve the above shortcomings, make the vines healthy and strong forever, and effectively control the upward movement of the resulting parts or the aging and baldness of the main vines behind them. Through pruning technology, the contradiction between aboveground and underground, growth and fruiting can be adjusted, the whole plant growth can be balanced, the fruiting amount can be increased, and the quality of grape fruit can be improved.

Second, pruning time. It is more suitable to arrive in beginning of spring after defoliation, that is, from mid-June 65438+February to early February of the following year.

Third, pruning technology. Taking the grape trellis which has been planted for more than four years and each plant accounts for 6- 10 square meter as an example, the pruning method is explained.

1, cut off useless branches. First, cut off the old, weak, residual branches, dead branches, pests and diseases branches, slender branches (more than 0.5 cm in diameter) and some overlapping branches from the base.

2. cut the length. In practical application, the cutting length should be determined according to the different varieties, growth, position and maturity of branches. Results In principle, the pruning of mother branches should be based on the strong, medium and weak annual growth, that is, the strong branches should be kept long, the weak branches should be kept short, the ends should be kept long and the bases should be kept short. As far as the whole tree is concerned, it is necessary to combine long and short pruning, that is, the number of buds left is: long branches with 8 buds, middle branches with 4-7 buds, and short branches with 1-3 buds.

3. The number of branches and buds left by the bearing mother branch. The fruiting mother branch refers to the branch that produces new shoots and bears fruit in the second year. Too many branches will sprout too many new buds, which will affect the ventilation and light transmission of the frame surface and breed pests and diseases. At the same time, too much fruit will weaken the tree and affect the quality and growth of the next year. When pruning, the number of mother branches and buds is different because of the variety, frame type and tree shape. Take the above trellis as an example, 40-70 fruiting mother branches are usually selected, and the bud retention is 180-300. When pruning, we should also pay attention to make the main vines and their fruiting mother branches evenly distributed on the frame surface.

Fourth, pruning precautions. The diameter of the branches and vines at the cutting mouth should be above 1 cm. When pruning useless branches, they should be completely removed from the base. Cut branches and leaves should be burned or buried in a centralized way. At the same time, combine pruning in winter and apply sufficient organic fertilizer to lay a good foundation for next year's results. Hehe, I hope it helps you ~

How to prune my grapes?

1. "1,3, 6, 9~ 15" The significance of this pruning method is to leave 3 fruiting branches, 6 fruiting mother branches and 9 ~ 12 buds on the canopy surface every1meter. The long spreading tip of a dragon usually stays in the middle and long tip, and retracts once a year, so choose a protruding tip from the back. In garden cultivation, the number of buds is generally a little more, but not more than 15 buds, that is, "1, 3,6,9 ~15".

2. "1, 2, 1" pruning method is suitable for longan, milk and other varieties. Horizontal scaffolding, single dragon stem shaping, hole spacing 1~ 1.5 meters, 2~3 plants per hole, one dragon vine every 50~60 cm on the frame surface, and the single branch is updated alternately. The meaning of this method is to leave two short branches (1 ~ 2 nodes) and 1 middle branches on the long vine every1m on the scaffold surface, and trim the long branches spread by the dragon with long branches. There are two dragons per 1m wide shelf, which is equivalent to 14 ~ 20 buds, which is equivalent to 12000 ~ 18000 buds per hectare. In semi-arid areas, the sunshine is abundant, the grape branches are not easy to grow in vain, the pruning in summer is strictly controlled, and the flower buds at the base buds are often well differentiated. Generally, each ear weighs more than 0.5 kg, and the yield per hectare can be guaranteed to be 30,000 ~ 37,500 kg. This pruning method is more suitable for young fruit trees.

Third, the pruning of trees in full fruit period generally refers to 13~40 years old trees. During this period, the fruit yield of trees increased year by year, and the vegetative growth gradually weakened. If it is not managed properly, it is easy to have years. Therefore, the main task of pruning is to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, improve lighting conditions, maintain tree potential, and obtain high and stable yield.

4. Pruning of aging trees Trees that are 30 to 40 years old have entered the aging period. The main task of pruning is to renew and rejuvenate, restore tree vigor, extend the fruiting period as much as possible, and maintain a good yield. In the specific operation, the trunk and lateral branches should be retracted and raised appropriately according to the degree of weakness. If the central branch group has declined, it should be sawed off from the base to change the crown into a pleasing shape, but the wound should be protected to prevent decay. For aging trees, we should make full use of long branches to cultivate new fruiting branches, at the same time, renew and rejuvenate the original branches, and properly remove too dense flower buds to ensure the vigorous growth of branches.

5. During the budding period from mid-March to early April, it should be cut before flowering. For trees with few flowers, more branches are cut in winter because the flower buds are not recognized. When the flower buds can be clearly identified, the extra branches without flowers should be properly loosened or retracted, so that the inner room can be fully illuminated. For trees with poor varieties, high grafting can be started from liquid flow.

There are some technical materials about grape planting in my space. You can go and have a look.

When is the best pruning time for grapes?

Pruning and Pruning Techniques of Grape 1. Winter pruning time: generally, it is carried out after the grapes naturally fall leaves and before the bleeding period in the following spring.

2. Proper branch retention: The amount of branch retention and bud retention has great influence on yield, quality and plant growth and development. Generally speaking, the varieties with weak growth and strong erect are 0/5 per square meter13-13, the varieties with medium growth 10- 13 and the varieties with strong growth are 7-9.

When pruning, pay attention to the fine and the thick, and stay sick and stay strong. 3. Pruning length: according to the variety characteristics, vine growth, fertility of framework and climatic conditions, the pruning method of long, medium and short shoots is adopted.

If the variety grows vigorously, the branches and vines are strong, the shelf surface is large, and the water and fertilizer conditions are good, the short branches with 2-3 buds and the middle branches with 4-6 buds can be pruned. 4. Updating and pruning: Double-branch updating is a common method, that is, leaving two annual branches on the same base branch.

Pruning the middle and long branches on the upper branches as the fruiting mother vines, pruning the short branches on the lower branches as the preparatory vines, and pruning the upper branches in the next winter to keep the lower branches as long as the previous year can slow down the rise of the fruiting parts, keep the plants in a vigorous fruiting and growing state, and ensure stable and bumper harvests year after year.

How to prune grapes?

Precautions for grape pruning:

Grape pruning, also known as dormancy pruning, is mainly to ensure a certain number of bud eyes, regulate growth and fruit, so as to ensure good new shoots every year, so as to improve yield and high yield year after year.

Pruning period: generally, it is carried out after defoliation in autumn and before burying the soil for cold protection. For varieties that are not cold-proof and buried in the soil, such as Xiangshan grape, it can be carried out after defoliation and before the next spring juice outflow period (bleeding period).

Determination of bud retention and branch retention: When cutting in winter, bud retention of plants is closely related to yield, quality and plant growth. Too many buds, large plant load, dense new shoots, poor ventilation and light transmission, and insufficient nutrition will all lead to falling flowers and fruits. The ear becomes smaller, the quality is poor, the maturity is delayed, the growth of branches is weak and the maturity is poor. Too few buds are left, the number of fruiting branches is not enough, and the shelf surface is empty, which also affects the yield. Therefore, in order to improve the grape yield and ensure the quality of berries, the reasonable bud quantity must be determined according to the tree potential and shelf surface every year. Generally, each square meter of shelf surface can accommodate about 15-20 new shoots, and on this basis, it should be increased or decreased according to the tree condition.

Pruning method: (1) Thinning: In order to ensure that each main vine can be equipped with a group of fruiting branches at a certain distance, unnecessary or unusable branches should be completely cut off from the base.

⑵ Short cutting: When pruning in winter, it is customary to cut short the new branches that have matured 1 year. Cut the branches and vines to the required length, which is mainly determined by the pruning needs and the quality of mature new shoots. Pruning length is generally: short tip, leaving 1-24 knots; Middle tip, leaving 5-7 knots; Long tip, leaving 8- 12 knots. Generally, new branches with mature and strong growth potential can be appropriately cut; The growth potential is weak, the maturity is not good, and the thin ones can be kept short; Varieties with low bearing strength at the base of branches and vines should be trimmed with medium and long shoots; Where the branches and vines are sparse, you can stay for a long time in order to make full use of the space; Summer pruning can be shortened, and for new shoots that are not checked, it is necessary to leave them for a long time.

(3) Updating pruning: pruning branches and vines that move too fast upward or forward, and replacing them with mature new branches at or near the base. Update pruning is divided into single-branch update and double-branch update. Due to improper regeneration or light pruning of single branch, the germination ability of branches and vines is not strong, and it is difficult to form ideal preparatory branches at the base and master them. It is not introduced here, but only two-branch regeneration, which usually consists of a fruiting mother branch and a preparatory branch on a branch group. Results The mother branch was kept long, and the long and middle branches were pruned. The next branch was used as a preparatory branch to cut 2-3 buds, which was repeated every year. This method is reliable and suitable for varieties with weak branching ability.

Precautions for grape pruning in winter: (1) The vine tissue of grape is loose, the pith is large, and water and nutrients are easily lost. When pruning branches, the upper ends of the cut mouth buds should be cut off 3-5 cm above the mouth buds of vines or cut off one by one; (2) When pruning, cut off dead branches, pests and diseases, useless secondary branches and long branches. Long branches with long internodes and small buds are easy to cause serious blindness, so they should be thinned or cut short, and try to keep mature new shoots with full buds. (3) When thinning branches, the cutting mouth should be controlled below 65438±0cm from the base, and do not cut near the base. After the residual pile is completely dried, it is cut off from another part; (4) The secondary branches of summer buds or winter buds with a thickness of more than 0.8 cm and good maturity can choose 2-3 nodes, and those with weak growth potential should be cut off.

The above contents are for your reference only.