(1) winter pruning
In areas that need to be buried for cold protection in winter, pruning is generally completed before burying for cold protection. There is no need to cover soil in cold areas in winter, and pruning can be postponed until the end of winter, usually 3-4 weeks after defoliation or 3-4 weeks before spring bleeding. The method of pruning in winter is to shorten the mature annual branches. Cutting 1~4 section is called short tip pruning, cutting 5~7 section is called middle tip pruning, and cutting 8~ 10 section is called long tip pruning. The combination of long, medium, short and sharp pruning is called mixed pruning.
The main contents of winter pruning are:
1. Determination of cutting length of fruiting mother branch: according to variety characteristics, pruning methods and cultivation management conditions. Variety characteristics: oriental varieties with vigorous growth and low seed setting rate at the base of mother branches, such as longan and bairu, are mainly pruned with long and middle branches, and the mother branches can be kept long; Black Sea and Western European varieties, such as White, Late Red Honey, Rose Red, etc., have moderate or weak growth at the base of buds, high seed setting rate, and are suitable for pruning medium and short branches and short fruiting branches. Growth and location of branches: In this respect, branches with strong and mature branches should be kept for a long time, and branches with weak branches should be kept for a short time. If the distance between the main vines is too large and the surrounding space is large, it can be put on hold for a long time, and there are many branches on the shelf surface, which can be put on hold for a short time. The extended branches stay long, and the prepared branches stay short.
2. Determination of the number of cuttings of fruiting mother branches: The number of cuttings of fruiting mother branches is closely related to yield, quality and plant growth. Results Too many mother branches, crowded new shoots, poor ventilation and light transmission, and insufficient nutrition will lead to falling flowers and fruits. As a result, too few mother branches will affect the yield.
3. Regeneration of branches and vines: Regeneration of branches and vines can prevent the fruiting parts from moving outward and the lower part from balding, and continuously cultivate the fruiting parts from moving outward and the lower part from balding, thus continuously cultivating robust branches, keeping the trees robust, preventing premature aging and prolonging the fruiting life.
Single branch regeneration: when pruning in winter, no spare branches are left, and the bearing branches are pruned according to long, medium and short branches respectively. When it was put on the shelf in the next spring, the medium-long fruiting branches were tied in a horizontal position or bent downward, so that the fruiting branches were extracted from the upper part, and strong new shoots were selected at the base as backup branches for cultivation. The inflorescence with reserved branches should be removed, tied up and grown upright to make it grow healthily. When cutting in winter, cut off the part above the preparatory branch, and cut off 2~4 buds of the preparatory branch, which is repeated once a year.
Two-branch regeneration: A branch group usually consists of a fruiting mother branch and a preparatory branch. As a result, the mother branch is long and the short tip is cut off. After fruiting, the fruiting mother branch is cut off in winter pruning, and two robust annual branches are left on the prepared branches, and the upper branch is used as the fruiting mother branch and pruned with long branches and middle branches. The lower part is used as a reserve branch, and 2~3 buds are cut off every year and replaced repeatedly.
4. Selection and pruning length of preparatory branches: When pruning in winter, if there are branches on the main branches of plants, you should choose preparatory branches and cut off 2~3 buds. In winter cutting, the branch group adopts double branch regeneration method. When pruning in winter, we should also cut off dead branches, pests and diseases, and useless long branches. Grape branches and vines have loose tissues, large pruning amount and many wounds. In order to reduce bleeding, prune 1~2 cm from cuttings in a short time. When thinning branches, the distance from the cutting mouth to the base is about 65438±0cm.
(2) Summer pruning
1. De-sprouting and fixing branches: from bud eye germination to leaf opening. The purpose is to save nutrients, improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and reasonable load.
2. New shoot coring and secondary branch treatment: coring the fruiting branches before flowering, and leaving 4-8 leaves on each inflorescence for coring. For the secondary branches that germinate after coring, the method of repeated coring with 1~2 secondary branches with 3~4 leaves at the top, repeated coring with 1~2 leaves above the ear and picking all the secondary branches below the ear is adopted. Developing branches should be treated differently according to their functions. The developing branches of main vines and lateral vines should be picked at the parts that need branching. After that, 4~6 leaves are left for the top and secondary branches, and the other secondary branches are treated as the secondary branches of the bearing branches. As a result of culture, 8~ 10 leaves can be left in the new shoots of the mother branch for coring.
3. Removing tendrils and tying tendrils: Without any treatment, leaving tendrils wrapped around the frame surface will bring inconvenience to tying, harvesting, cutting and taking off the frame in winter, and tendrils also consume nutrients and should be removed. When the new tip is 40 cm long, it needs to be tied to the frame surface to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and avoid being blown off by the wind.