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Cultivation techniques of nectarine
Nectarine can be divided into early, middle and late stages according to maturity, and the varieties can be flexibly selected according to the local market supply. Base fertilizer, mainly farmyard manure, is added with calcium superphosphate. From the second year of planting, the base fertilizer per plant 150-200 kg per year; Young trees (2-4 years old) are mainly nitrogen fertilizer, and each tree is fertilized with 1-4 kg per year, with appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium. In the fruiting period, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be increased year by year, generally 2: 3: 2 is appropriate, and other trace elements should be supplemented appropriately.

When the base fertilizer is insufficient or the tree is weak in autumn, topdressing can be 0.2-0.5 kg/plant; If paclobutrazol needs to be controlled, 0.5- 1g/m2 (15% content) can be applied to the soil and then irrigated with water. When the topsoil is not sticky, the whole garden is covered with film. Plastic film mulching is beneficial to keep the ground temperature, especially after irrigation, the ground temperature rises faster.

If it is possible to lay drip irrigation pipe and use drip irrigation instead of flood irrigation, it will not only save water but also help to control the humidity in the shed. Nectarine tree has strong apical dominance, many branches, fast growth of new buds and easy formation of flower buds. It is important to cultivate high-yield trees in advance. Natural open trees with three main branches and open trees with two main branches are often used, and short and dense layered trees are used, but they should be flexibly mastered according to the cultivation method and density.

Several common tree shapes

(1) Happy type: This tree has a relatively high crown, and most parts of the fruit can make full use of space, with high yield, which is suitable for the construction of pure peach gardens. Plastic surgery generally needs two or three main branches, that is, it is set at 50-60 cm in that year, the first main branch is selected at 40 cm from the ground, and the second and third main branches are selected at 20 cm from the first main branch. The remaining main branches are required to be robust and evenly distributed in three directions around the main branches, and all the remaining branches are controlled to grow and reserved as auxiliary branches. When cutting in winter, cut the main branches properly to extend the crown. The rest of the branches are pruned according to the growth position, taking the weak and leaving the strong, taking the upper and leaving the side, taking the far and leaving the near. When the new branches grow to 40 cm in summer, buds should be picked in time to promote the secondary branches, and the clustered branches and dense branches on the back should be thinned to achieve ventilation and light transmission, and the fruiting skeleton should be cultivated in advance.

(2) Improved cup shape: improved from cup shape. Still cup-shaped, the bases of the three main branches are adjacent. In the future, it will generally branch in a binary way. Press 45-55 for the main branch? The angle opens and extends. When the tree is basically completed, the main branch spacing is 80- 100cm.

(3) Close-distance evacuation layering: it is suitable for planting fruit trees in rows and belts, and the modeling requires that 5-7 main branches be selected, that is, 40-60 cm should be selected in the current year, the first main branch should be 50 cm off the ground, 5-7 main branches should be left in the wrong direction of 50 cm, and 2-3 lateral branches should be left for each main branch, and other branches should be used as auxiliary branches to gradually form the upper and lower structure.

Universal pruning method

(1) Short cutting: Short cutting of branches is called short cutting, and short cutting of perennial branches is called retraction, which has a local promotion effect on branches and buds near cuttings.

(2) Draining: completely draining branches from the base is called draining. Conducive to flower bud differentiation, flower and fruit growth and development. It is often used to loosen over-dense branches and over-weak branches, and can be used to balance tree potential and adjust branch quantity.

(3) Picking: Cutting off the tender part of the top of the new shoot during the growing period is called coring. It can promote germination and enrichment, and is beneficial to the formation of flower buds. Often used to control competitive branches and long branches.

(4) Holding branches and twisting branches: In the early stage of lignification of new shoots, holding branches can increase the angle and slow down the growth, which is beneficial to the fruit. It is often used for the utilization and transformation of strong trees of young trees or early fruit trees. First twist the tip and slightly flatten the branches to slow down the growth and benefit the fruit. Mostly used for auxiliary branches.

(5) Circumcision or eye injury: Circumcision is to cut a wound at the base of the branch in the growing period to block the output of photosynthetic nutrients in the upper part, improve the nutrient storage level and promote flower bud differentiation. Usually used to support branches. Eye injury before germination, cutting off the upper part of the bud, also promotes bud germination, often used for bald branches.

summer pruning

(1) Bud smearing and branch thinning: When the new buds grow to about 5cm, the useless buds and new buds are erased. Usually in mid-May, the purpose of this time is to preserve nutrition. The purpose of thinning branches in June-July is to improve the light.

(2) Twisting the shoot: controlling its vigorous growth and promoting flower bud differentiation. The time is from mid-May to early June.

(3) Core-taking: Core-taking is carried out in mid-May in advance to promote the branches to occupy the remaining space. The purpose of enucleation in late July-August is to inhibit growth and promote flower bud differentiation.

(4) Shrinking fruit branches: at this time, the excessively long fruit branches left by winter pruning are shrunk to the upper fruitless fruit parts. Fruitless branches are contracted and cut into ready branches.

Winter pruning

(1) Pruning of fruit branches

According to variety characteristics, tree age and tree vigor. Young tree stage: the tree grows vigorously, the fruit branches stay long, the long fruit branches and long branches can stay 30-40 cm, or they can be put down slowly without cutting, and then recovered after the fruit droops. Generally, 4-5 buds should be cut from long fruit branches, 3-4 buds should be cut from middle fruit branches, 2-3 buds should be cut from short fruit branches, and bouquetlike fruit branches should be sparse and long. During the aging period, the tree is weak and the length of fruit branches should be shortened.

(2) Regeneration and pruning of fruiting branches

Trees in full fruit period need to be updated in time after fruiting. There are two methods of regeneration: ① single branch regeneration, appropriately increasing the short section of fruit branches, so that they can bear fruit and grow new branches for the next year. (2) Double regeneration: two fruiting branches adjacent to the base are selected in the same mother branch, one branch is light and short, and the other branch is heavy and short.

(3) Pruning long branches

Remove useless branches. Long branches growing in space should be cultivated into branches, and 20-30cm should be cut off when they are repaired in winter. Long branches can also form main branches and side branches, which are used to update the main branches.

(4) Pruning of branches

Combine cultivation and utilization when pruning. For large branches outside the crown, the pruning degree of extended branches is heavier than that of side branches. Pay attention to the direction of cutting buds and extended branches so that they bend and grow every year. The ability of large and medium branches in the crown is reduced, the base is rejuvenated, and the weak branches can be thinned.

blossom and fruit thinning

The method of "light before heavy" can be carried out by stages or combined with summer pruning. The method is as follows: appropriately pruning slender flower branches, retracting drooping flower branches, thinning weak flower branches and dense flower branches, and thinning fruit for the first time in mid-May, mainly thinning combined fruit, deformed fruit, small fruit, base fruit and top fruit. The second fruit thinning was carried out from late May to early June. Generally, 2-3 fruits are left in the long fruit technique, 1-2 fruits in the middle fruit branch and 1 fruit in the short fruit branch. The leaf-fruit ratio is not less than 50: 65,438+0, and the fruit spacing is not less than 20 cm.

Bagging material

In order to improve the quality of nectarine fruit and realize green food, bagging technology can make up for many shortcomings and is economical and effective. That is to say, it is carried out after fruit thinning in late June every year. Bagging can use ordinary single-layer paper bags or plastic bags sold in the market, and the method is the same as that of apple bagging.

When the chilling requirement of peach trees is met, the dormancy can be released by raising the temperature. In the area south of 34 degrees north latitude, because of the late defoliation, it entered the dormancy period late. Varieties that need 600 hours of cooling capacity can be heated in the shed in early October of 65438+ 10; However, in the area north of 36 degrees north latitude, you can buckle the shed in advance, build the shed during the day, and uncover the shed at night to promote its early dormancy. When the variety meets the cold demand, the uncovered shed will heat up normally. The temperature control period is mainly to accelerate germination, and the temperature is kept at about 8- 15℃, with the lowest 0-5℃ and the highest 25-28℃.

In the early stage of solar greenhouse (about 1 week), half of the grass is pulled up, a small amount of light is let in, and the temperature is gradually increased, so that the peach trees move slowly, which is beneficial to the balanced metabolism of various hormones and nutrients. 1 week later, open all straw mats and fully see the light. The indoor temperature should be kept at 10-25℃ during the day, not lower than 5℃ at night, and the ground temperature should be 15-20℃. The optimum temperature for germination is 5-28℃. Generally, it opens at 8: 00 in the morning and opens at 16: 00 in the afternoon.

At this time, the plastic greenhouse should do a good job of heat preservation, because the temperature in the middle and late June of 65438+ 10 is very low and it is easy to snow. The cold resistance of buds after germination and growth is extremely low, and chilling injury will occur when the temperature is lower than 0℃. In the case of cold current, warm air and hot blast stove can be used for auxiliary heating if possible.

The relative humidity of air from shed to germination should be kept at about 80%, and the flowering period should be controlled at 50%-60%. The main pests and diseases that harm nectarine are leaf shrinkage, gum (oil) disease, peach aphid, fruit eater, scale insect and so on.

Spraying 3-5 degrees sulfur mixture at the initial stage of germination can not only prevent diseases, but also kill the overwintering red spider. Pay attention to careful spraying. Stone-sulfur mixture is a reddish-brown liquid made of quicklime and sulfur powder boiled in water. The active ingredient is calcium polysulfide, which is strongly alkaline and soluble in water, and has a strong contact killing effect on mites.

Boiling the mixture of lime and sulfur should use high-quality quicklime, but not molten lime. The ratio of lime, sulfur and water is 1: 2: 10.

The production method is as follows: firstly, put the quicklime into an iron pot, dissolve it with a little water, add enough water to heat it, and at the same time, mix the sulfur powder with a little warm water to make it paste for later use. When the water in the pot is near boiling, slowly pour the sulfur paste into the lime solution along the edge of the pot, stirring while pouring, and remember the water level line. Heat with strong fire, boil for 40-60 minutes, and cease fire when the liquid medicine is boiled to reddish brown.

It should be noted that in the process of boiling, it should be properly stirred, and the evaporated water should be supplemented with hot water. After cooling, the residue is filtered to obtain the original solution of red-brown stone sulfur mixture. Before use, measure the concentration of the stock solution with Baume hydrometer, and then add water to dilute it to the required concentration as needed.

The main pests and diseases of nectarine are: peach anthracnose, brown rot, lobular disease, peach aphid, spider mite, liriomyza sativae and so on. For these diseases and insect pests, spraying 1 times 5-degree sulfur mixture before germination, spraying 2000 times 1 times 10% wettable seed dressing agent after flowering, and spraying 72% for agriculture in early May and middle and late June respectively.