1. What determines skin color
Skin color is determined by:
1. Melanin in skin, Content of pigments such as carotene
2. Skin thickness and scattering of light on the skin surface
3. Contents of oxygen, hemoglobin and reduced hemoglobin in blood vessels of skin dermis
4. Thickness and roughness of skin stratum corneum
Among them, melanin, which we are familiar with, plays a major role, and secondly, the thickness and roughness of skin stratum corneum will also affect the apparent "complexion" (uneven skin color). Therefore, the whitening approach mainly starts from melanin and stratum corneum in the basal layer.
Second, the upward movement path of melanin particles
Melanin is produced by melanocytes located in the basal layer of epidermis, accounting for about 1% of basal cells, and each melanocyte transports melanin particles to adjacent basal cells and acanthocytes by means of dendrites.
III. Melanin production and metabolism
In melanocytes, tyrosine is catalyzed by tyrosinase and various oxidases to produce melanin, and part of the melanin produced moves up to the stratum corneum and falls off with it, while the other part moves down and is absorbed by capillaries in the skin. Excretion from the kidney with blood circulation
IV. Plaque formation process
Due to various stimuli, melanocytes produce melanin particles, and black particles transfer to keratinocytes through dendrites of melanocytes, and the melanin particles transferred to keratinocytes go up to the stratum corneum, thus affecting the color of skin and forming pigmentation!
V. Mechanism of inhibiting melanin
1. Sunscreen is the first step, and the sunscreen principle ABCD, a-avoid to avoid the sun, b-block to block the sun (wearing an umbrella and a mask), c-cream sunscreen, D-diet
2. accelerate skin metabolism and cuticle shedding
3. selectively destroy melanocytes or change the structure of melanocytes
4. inhibit the enzymes needed in the process of melanin production
5. reduce the synthesized melanin or inhibit dopa autooxidation
6. inhibit melanin transport
Six, choose ingredients that can whiten
(skin care products: skin care essence, night cream, cream, water emulsion, emulsion, sensitive muscle mask, anti-aging water, freckle essence, freckle needle, whitening freckle cream, brush acid, C1, yellowing, dull face, uneven skin tone, these are all ways to make skin better, make skin delicate and repair, The mechanism of skin anti-inflammation should be known)
1. Prevent melanin transfer (lecithin, nicotinamide, tranexamic acid)
2. Inhibit melanin production (kojic acid, arbutin, mulberry extract, butyl resorcinol, phenylethyl resorcinol (377), undecenyl phenylalanine, ellagic acid, ferulic acid, vitamin A derivative, glutathione. Potassium methylsalicylate)
3. Accelerate melanin metabolism (ellagic acid, ferulic acid, vitamin A derivative, glutathione, ascorbic acid vitamin C, licorice flavone, lactic acid, potassium methylsalicylate, glycolic acid, almond acid, tocopherol, salicylic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid, superoxide dismutase SOD
Summary:
-What is the decision of skin color? ② Melanin particles move up to epidermis with keratinocytes; ③ Melanin can't be completely metabolized in epidermal deposition
-Mechanism of inhibiting plaque formation: ① inhibiting melanin production; ② inhibiting melanin transfer; ③ accelerating melanin metabolism.