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How to prune chestnuts of different ages and potentials?
Castanea mollissima (scientific name: Castanea mollissima), also known as Castanea mollissima, belongs to the genus Castanea of Fagaceae. It is native to China, distributed in Viet Nam, Taiwan Province Province and Chinese mainland, and grows at an altitude of 370-2,800 meters. It is common in mountainous areas and has been widely cultivated. Chestnuts are rich in nutrition, and the content of vitamin C is even higher than that of tomatoes, which is ten times that of apples. The minerals in chestnuts are also comprehensive, including potassium, zinc and iron. Although the content is not as high as hazelnut, it is still much higher than that of ordinary fruits such as apples, especially the potassium content is three times higher than that of apples. Plastic decoration:

Pruning of chestnut trees can be divided into winter pruning and summer pruning. Winter pruning from defoliation to germination in the following spring can promote the growth of millet trees and the formation of female flowers. The main methods are cutting short, thinning branches, retracting, slow releasing, pulling branches and carving. Pruning chestnut trees in summer mainly refers to budding, pit removal, emasculation and branch thinning in the growing season, which can promote branching, increase female flowers, and improve seed setting rate and single grain weight.

1, shortcut: cut off part of annual branches. Short cutting can promote branching, enhance tree vigor, compact crown, reduce male flowers and adjust nutrient distribution. The leafy trees can be pruned in a delayed way, and they can be cut short after germination.

2. Retraction: it is a short cut of perennial branches. It is mostly used for perennial branches with weak growth, outward displacement of fruit and serious exposure in holes.

3. Drainage: that is, the raw branches, light blocking branches and slender branches in the cavity are drained from the base.

4, wearing a hat scissors: cut short near the new sharp wheel mark in winter, and the coring time is different. Leave 2-4 small buds on the ring mark of the new tip, which is called movable cap pruning. If handled properly, only the small buds on the cap and the big buds under the ring mark can produce fruiting branches. Leaving no short buds on the ring mark of the new tip is called wearing a dead hat to prune, so that the big buds under the ring mark produce fruiting branches. Under normal circumstances, the weak branches wear dead hat scissors, and the strong branches wear live hat scissors.

5, slow release: slow release is not cut. Its main function is to disperse nutrition and relieve tree vigor. Use slow speed for lush trees.

6. Branching and scribing: For the strong and vigorous auxiliary branches whose crown is not pitted, flatten them when the juice flows to the bud in spring, and scribble above the bud that needs to germinate, so as to make them grow strong and vigorous branches. When pruning in winter, the slowly released and leveled branches are retracted to the part where the strong branches are drawn.

7. Nucleation: When the new bud grows to 30 cm, remove the top of the new bud. Mainly used for flourishing branches, the purpose is to promote early fruiting of branches. Pick your heart 2-3 times a year. The new buds of the first fruit-bearing trees are long and lush. When the front branches of the fruit grow out, 3-5 buds are left for picking. After the fruit tip is pitted, three thick branches can be formed, which increases the proportion of fruiting branches and slows down the outward migration of fruiting parts.

8. Remove the male inflorescences: Leave only a few male inflorescences on the branches and remove the rest. Its main function is to control nutrition, promote the formation of female flowers and improve the strength of fruiting.