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What is the method of making goldfinch bonsai?
Goldfinch is distributed in the Yangtze River valley and North China, and is widely cultivated as a garden flower. The following is the making method of goldfinch bonsai that I carefully arranged for you. Let's have a look.

Method for making goldfinch bonsai

Whether you dig a goldfinch yourself or buy a goldfinch at the flower market, you should trim and shape it according to the shape and shape of the stump before you put it in the pot. Long old roots should be cut off, and the torn roots should also be cut off, but more lateral roots and fibrous roots should be left. The trunk should be trimmed moderately and branches that do not need to be shaped should be cut off. Root and stem incisions should be smooth, and a layer of vaseline, burn ointment and gibberellin eye ointment can be coated to prevent the wound from rotting. Never soak in water before planting, or the roots will rot after planting. First plant it in a earthen basin or underground to "raise a blank". Basin soil should be clean plain fine sand. Some people planted it with fine sand for construction mixed with appropriate amount of coarse coal ash, and the effect was also very good. The bottom of the basin can be covered with a layer of coarse coal ash to facilitate drainage. Goldfinches are afraid of getting wet, so they should be watered once after planting. Don't water them again in the future, and absolutely avoid water in the basin, otherwise the roots will rot quickly. After planting goldfinches, do not spread leaves or shade them, and put them directly in sheltered and sunny places for maintenance. The environmental temperature of the newly planted goldfinch is better to be lower. Try to make its roots germinate, avoid false living, and don't cover the plants with plastic film, otherwise the temperature in the plastic film will be too high, the branches and leaves will grow too fast, the roots will not be absorbed and supplied, and the stumps will die. But if it is too cold in winter, you should keep warm. You can move indoors at 0℃ to 5℃ to prevent the soil from freezing. Plastic film can also be used to cover the stump, but a frame should be built inside the plastic film with iron wire to avoid the plastic film from contacting the stump. Others cover the flowerpots with black plastic bags and leave the stumps outside to raise the soil temperature and let them take root as soon as possible. Before putting goldfinch bonsai into a small pot, you can raise piles in a clay earthen pot filled with clean plain sand. After survival, it will take root initially, and move into a small pot for viewing in the second or third year.

The planting and transplanting of goldfinches should be carried out before germination in spring. Before planting, you should cut off the extra branches, cut off the torn and injured roots, and cut the mouth smoothly. Do not soak in water, otherwise the roots will rot and die after planting. Water the roots once after planting, and don't want them later. Plants without spreading leaves should be kept in the leeward and sunny place after potted, and the ambient temperature should not be too high, so that the plants can grow roots and leaves in the later stage to avoid premature germination and "false living" due to too high temperature.

The digging and planting of goldfinch should be carried out from late autumn to spring before germination. At this time of year, bare-rooted goldfinch stumps are sold in flower markets all over the country. If planted improperly, goldfinch stumps are difficult to survive, and once they survive, their vitality is very tenacious and their management is relatively extensive.

The surviving goldfinch is placed in an outdoor sunny and ventilated place to avoid water accumulation in the basin at ordinary times and pay attention to drainage in rainy season. Plants with weak growth should not be fertilized in that year, otherwise they will burn the newly grown roots. Plants that grow vigorously should be applied with decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer once a month. Don't prune that year, let it grow, let the leaves produce more nutrients through photosynthesis, and form new roots as soon as possible. Pruning should be carried out before germination in the next spring, and branches that do not need modeling should be cut off. Some branches should be shaped and leveled, and attention should be paid to cultivating transitional branches, so that the branches and stems can be coordinated, and the tillers germinated at the roots can be eliminated in time to avoid competing with the growing branches for nutrients. By the third year, it is basically formed, and it can be moved into ornamental pots such as purple sand pots in spring to plant loose and fertile sand with good drainage and permeability.

Sowing, rameting, cutting and layering are commonly used in goldfinch breeding. Suitable for sunny environment, drought-resistant and barren, but afraid of water, humidity and too sheltered environment. It has strong germination ability and fast growth. Always pick the heart during the growing period, so that not only the leaves will become smaller, but also more buds will bloom. Cutting off branches that are too long and messy at any time will affect the beauty of bonsai. Re-cut the plants once a year before germination in spring, and cut off weak branches, long branches, dead branches and other branches that affect the shape. Goldfinches are not afraid of the sun, even in midsummer, they don't need shading. However, excessive fertilization will make the leaves too large, which will affect the appreciation. Therefore, topdressing is generally not needed in maintenance, but 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be sprayed on the leaves at one time when the buds are formed to prolong the flowering period. In winter, put it in a cool place indoors or in a sunny place outdoors. Turn the pot once about three years before germination in spring, and the pot soil should be sandy soil with medium fertility and good drainage.

Goldfinch likes light and bears drought, so it should be placed in a sunny and ventilated place. It is cold-resistant in winter, and it can be wintered outdoors to the south of the Yellow River. It is best to bury the basin in the soil. Base fertilizer can be applied once in winter dormancy period, and water and fertilizer can be applied once before flowering in spring to prolong flowering period. Top dressing again after flowering to promote the growth of branches and leaves. Usually, it is enough to apply a thin amount of fat water. After the leaves fall in winter, you can cut off all kinds of branches that affect the tree shape. After flowering in spring, cut off the flowering branches to promote the growth of new flower branches. In the vigorous growth period, long branches can be pruned at any time, and the core can be picked appropriately to keep the tree beautiful.

Turn over the pot: Turn over the pot every two to three years, preferably in early spring. When turning over the basin, you can remove about half of the old soil and cut off the long roots appropriately. Can also be combined with pot turnover for root lifting modeling. Goldfinches mainly watch flowers, and the flowering period from April to June is the best viewing period. You can also see trees of various shapes at ordinary times. Flowers in full bloom on the tree, such as goldfinches, are full of golden eagles and swaying in the breeze, which is very pleasing to the eye.

Maintenance method of goldfinch bonsai

The planting and transplanting of goldfinches should be carried out before germination in spring. Before planting, you should cut off the extra branches, cut off the torn and injured roots, and cut the mouth smoothly. Do not soak in water, otherwise the roots will rot and die after planting. After planting, water the roots once. If you don't water them in the future, don't water them again. You must absolutely avoid water accumulation in the basin and pay attention to drainage in rainy season, otherwise the roots will rot quickly. Plants without spreading leaves should be placed in the leeward and sunny place for maintenance after potted, and the ambient temperature should not be too high, so that roots and leaves can grow in the later stage, so as to avoid premature germination and false living of plants caused by too high temperature. Whether you dig a goldfinch yourself or buy a goldfinch at the flower market, you should trim and shape it according to the shape and shape of the stump before you put it in the pot. Long old roots should be cut off, and the torn roots should also be cut off, but more lateral roots and fibrous roots should be left. The trunk should be trimmed moderately and branches that do not need to be shaped should be cut off.

The root quality of goldfinch is different from other tree species. It has fleshy roots and strong longitudinal fibers, so it is difficult to prune, and it is easy to break horizontally and split vertically from the base of the roots. Bacteria can easily invade this broken root. So when pruning the roots, cut off the broken roots, smooth the incision, apply erythromycin or vaseline ointment to the wound, and then plant it. Special attention should be paid to this point when planting, which is the key to the survival of goldfinches.

Never soak goldfinches in water before planting, or the roots will rot after planting. First plant it in a soil basin or underground for green cultivation. Basin soil should be made of clean plain fine sand. Some people planted it with fine sand for construction mixed with appropriate amount of coarse coal ash, and the effect was also very good. The bottom of the basin can be covered with a layer of coarse coal ash to facilitate drainage.

The management of goldfinch bonsai is relatively extensive, and it only needs to be reshaped before flowering every year to cut off dead branches, twigs, dense branches and ugly branches. Pick the residual flowers in time after flowering to avoid pod setting and nutrient consumption. For the last year's branches, two or three nodes are left from the base for pruning, so as to promote new branches and increase the number of branches. When the branches grow to about 5 cm, two or three nodes are left for pinching, making the tree more plump and compact and more ornamental. The new branches that grow after coring should not be cut again in that year, otherwise they will not grow vigorously. The length of branches can be controlled by coring many times to keep a good tree shape.

Although goldfinches are barren-tolerant, they also like to fertilize. After the newly planted stump survives, it must be lignified before fertilization. Apply thin fertilizer frequently and apply fertilizer every other week. Nitrogen fertilizer is dominant in spring and summer, followed by phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early autumn. Combined with root application, potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be sprayed for two or three times. Combined with turning pots, applying sufficient base fertilizer, it is better to bake and mix rotten sesame cake, soybean meal and bone meal or poultry, and apply quick-acting liquid fertilizer before germination and before and after flowering.

Goldfinches are naturally widespread, and pests and diseases are rare. According to its cold-resistant characteristics, the method of cultivating soil in the open field for wintering generally does not cause freezing injury. If pests and diseases are found, conventional control can be done.