When most mechanical keyboards change shafts, users need to disassemble the keyboard and take off the key cap. If only one shaft body is replaced, it is not necessary to remove all the key caps, but only one key cap. When disassembling the keyboard, because different brands of mechanical keyboard screws have different design positions, you must look carefully before disassembling, and never miss a screw.
Pull out all the key caps with a key puller, and it's best to put them in order.
Some mechanical keyboard screws are designed in hidden positions, such as on the steel plate, behind the product nameplate, under the foot sticker, under the tripod, and under the outlet of the connecting wire. In short, there may be screws in any wonderful place. Do not disassemble the keyboard violently during the process. Some keyboards are designed with buckles. If the buckle is too hard, the keyboard shell may not be put back directly, which is not worth the loss.
There are screws hidden under the feet of the keyboard bracket.
Use this card to open the keyboard housing clasp.
The keyboard that is about to be rebuilt and dismantled has a conventional screw design and is easy to find. After the keyboard is disassembled, try to remove the connecting cable first. It is inconvenient to hang only a wire about two meters, and it can be removed to avoid being affected by the connecting wire. Basically, all keyboards, PCB boards and connecting wires can be separated and easily removed.
Unplug the keyboard cable to avoid affecting the operation.
It is simpler to have a backlit steel-free mechanical keyboard in the process of shaft changing, and many steps can be omitted in the process of shaft changing, as long as the shaft seat, pad and PCB are not damaged, there is basically no need to combine soldering irons. After the keyboard is removed, it is very easy to replace the whole keyboard shaft just by tilting the four buckles of the shaft cover with elbow pliers and special tools (balance bar) and replacing the required shaft center and spring.
Tilt the two buckles to the outside of the shaft body with elbow tweezers.
Because the gap on the other side of the belt buckle is small, the elbow pliers can't tilt the belt buckle, so the balance bar is used, and the effect is also very good.
This method is very suitable for mechanical keyboard without steel plate and backlight. If LED lights can be seen above the shaft, this method cannot be used. Because the LED lamp is stuck on the shaft cover, it is impossible to directly open the shaft body without disassembling the LED lamp. If it is a backlit mechanical keyboard, the LED can be removed. , and then use the way just now.
For novice players, replacing the base and shaft cover may be a bit confusing. Here, the author will explain the main reasons why it is not necessary to replace the whole shaft body, but only the shaft core and spring.
Comparison of CherryMX axes
When it comes to the reason why only the shaft core and spring are replaced, you can see the comparison diagram of the upper shaft body. The structure between shafts is very similar, and the secret of different shaft senses lies in the different turns of shaft core and spring. The base and upper cover of the shaft body are completely universal, so only the shaft core and spring need to be replaced, and the domestic shaft body can also be replaced in this way. Then, how to change the axis of the mechanical keyboard with backlight and steel plate?
Take the Kaiku keyboard in my hand, if the player only needs to change one axis, it will be very easy. Turn the keyboard upside down and you can see the dense welding stitches. First find the position of the pin of the shaft body to be replaced (don't make a mistake, then weld the wrong pin). Because the backlit keyboard adds LED light beads to the shaft, there are 4 pins including the shaft.
The dense stitches on the back of the keyboard
After finding the right pin, the soldering iron combination should appear. Before welding, it is also necessary to make some preparations in advance. First, prepare a wet sponge. Because the electric soldering iron is easy to oxidize after heating, and the oxide layer is insulating, so put the soldering iron on a wet sponge and gently scrape off the oxide layer on the welding head to ensure effective welding. When solder wire rides on the welding head and melts rapidly, it means that it can be welded. The temperature of soldering iron is controlled at about 220 20, which is more suitable for replacing the shaft body.
Personally, I am used to holding a soldering iron in my right hand and a tin sucker in my left hand to remove tin. The included angle between soldering iron and PCB is about 45, and the included angle between soldering iron and tin absorbing plate is about 90. Players should try not to get too close when using soldering iron, because solder wire containing flux will emit white smoke. In addition, players should pay attention to the fact that lead in lead-containing solder wire is toxic and cannot be excluded from the body, so everyone must remember to wash their hands after welding.
When dealing with solder joints
During the welding process, touch the solder joint with a heated soldering iron for about 3 seconds until the tin at the solder joint becomes mercury. At this time, use the left-hand tin sucker to suck away the tin. In the process of soldering iron contacting solder joints, tin slag is very easy to appear in the process of handling solder joints. At this point, solder can be welded at the solder joint and the previous steps can be repeated (solder suction wire can also be used to treat the solder joint). Then the shaft body clamped on the steel plate is tilted and taken out.
The part marked in red box in the figure is the shaft buckle, and the front and back of the shaft are designed with buckles.
After the shaft body is removed after the solder joint treatment, the prepared shaft body can be installed. This time, the shaft selected by the author is the original factory green shaft, which is the shaft with the strongest mechanical sense among the mechanical shafts, which is more in line with personal taste. In addition, players need to pay attention to the fact that if the mechanical keyboard is to be replaced by LED lights, they must pay attention to the fact that when installing the shaft and LED after handling the LED and shaft solder joints, don't install the LED lights upside down, otherwise the LED lights will not light up and have to be reworked.
The welding process is relatively easy. The soldering iron is still held in the usual hand, and the solder is held in the other hand, touching the pads and pins at the same time, and then the solder is added. The solder will begin to melt when it contacts the welding head. Add a proper amount of solder and continue to stay for about 65438 0 seconds, so that the solder is fully dissolved and evenly distributed. When soldering the solder joint, make the solder joint completely cover the pad as far as possible, and then take out the soldering iron and solder.
The shaft body replacement is completed.
After using the soldering iron, put the soldering iron on the soldering iron rack and let it dissipate heat. If the user wants to replace the axis with a full keyboard, the process is the same, but it will be boring. The long-term mechanized action and the smell of melting solder wire are unbearable, but after the completion, not only the desired results are obtained, but also a sense of accomplishment arises spontaneously.
Of course.
1. If it is a mechanical shaft and needs to be welded, you should have a manual foundation.
2. If it is a mechanical optical axis, it can be replaced at any time and can be hot-swapped.
Reference: Method of replacing backlight LED and mechanical shaft with mechanical keyboard
The difference between mechanical keyboard axes-mechanical axis and mechanical optical axis
How to replace the rotating shaft of mechanical keyboard?
Cheap mechanical keyboards can't replace rotating shafts. The shaft of a slightly more expensive keyboard is independent and can be replaced. Just use the key puller to pull out the shaft and press a new one, just like changing the key cap.
(How to change it has nothing to do with whether you are a green axis or not)
Mechanical keyboard shaft changing
Pull down the key cap. I see four claws on the shaft. Pick it up with a bent pin. The shaft is covered and the base does not need to be changed. Open the green shaft you bought, replace the contacts, springs, and fasten the green shaft body again.
How to remove the keyboard shaft
Materials: key cap puller, shaft puller, mechanical keyboard. 1. Prepare these two small tools as shown below, namely the key cap puller and the shaft puller. Second, the keyboard shaft needs to be disassembled first. At this time, clamp the two sides of the keycap with the keycap slider and lift it up to remove it. Third, then use the shaft puller, insert the two tips of the shaft puller into the hole of the key shaft, and then pull it up to pull it out. 1. Plug the soldering iron into the power supply and wait 1 minute to reach the proper temperature. Take out the mechanical keyboard circuit board, turn it over, and see a key shaft fixed in the position shown below. 2. Dissolve the tin behind with a heated soldering iron. After the tin is melted, it is absorbed by the tin absorbing device. 3. Use a hollow needle to pass through the key shaft hole below.
CherryMX-BOARD3.0 green axis changed to red axis.
I bought a green shaft of mx3.0 a long time ago. After using it for a while, I can't stand the click. I put it in a drawer and ate it for many years.
Some time ago, I collected a red shaft board from salted fish and dismantled a bunch of three-legged red shafts to prepare for the transformation of mx3.0. The process is a bit tortuous, because I can go to work during the day and go back to work at night.
Drop all the solder in the main key part and start to dial the shaft. . . . Hey. . . I couldn't dial it, but I struggled for a long time and found that there was a diode in the green shaft of the original factory, and the foot was still welded to the board. Suddenly, my heart was full of Ma Benteng. There is also a diode in this shipment, which means that the diode must be removed and put into the red shaft. When disassembling the shaft plate, you only need to disassemble two feet to pull it down directly. I didn't expect to tear down the original factory to be so wasteful. It's late at night, and it's a lot of work to tear down dozens of green axes and change them into red ones. I hesitated for a while and gave up. Repair what has just been welded with the fastest speed, and sleep. . . .
After a few months, I still couldn't stand the touch of the film keyboard and began to change the axis for mx. First, I searched the internet to see if there were any special diodes on the cherry shaft, which could at least save the effort of disassembling the green shaft, but failed. I saw a video of someone else changing the axis of 3494 on the Internet. This is a relatively simple observation and it seems unlikely that the shaft will be damaged. I decided to go back and try it at night.
First, remove a green shaft, put it in the red shaft and put it on the keyboard to test, and pass.
The next step is pure manual work, in which all the green shafts in the primary key area are removed at one time and the diodes are taken out; Then it was all installed in the red shaft and on the shaft board, and it was all normal after computer test (at first I was worried about which diode was soldered backwards or which pad on the board was broken).
Finally, the overall feel is in line with expectations, much quieter, and the key pressure is also smaller. The only drawback is that the space red axis is a bit fleshy. You can consider taking a spring out of a shaft and putting it directly under the space to try it, and then toss it later. In addition, the handle of the mixed shaft needs to be experienced to see if it can be stored harmoniously. If not, replace the remaining keys.