There are several pruning methods for potted plants, and there are three common pruning methods: coring, smearing and thinning.
Core-picking: Also called topping, in order to inhibit the growth of bonsai trees and promote the development of lateral branches, the tender heads of its branches can be picked. It is to cut off or cut off the top of the main stem or side branch of a flower plant by hand, thus breaking the top advantage of the plant, promoting the germination of its lower axillary buds, inhibiting the excessive growth of branches, promoting the plant to branch more, forming multi-flowered heads, and the plant shape is beautiful.
Hairdressing: Large flowers, such as rubber trees, Millennium trees, Liriodendron chinense, and pollen leaves, are too high to be cultivated indoors and need pruning or hairdressing. Usually, before the new branches sprout in spring, all the upper parts of the plants are cut off, that is, plastering. The height of the trunk when plastering depends on the kind of flowers.
Branch thinning: including thinning branches, leaves, buds, flowers and adventitious buds. When flowers and plants grow too vigorously, resulting in too dense branches and leaves, some branches should be thinned or too dense leaves should be removed in time to improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, so that flowers can grow stronger and flowers and fruits can be more colorful. Potted flowers should also be pruned frequently for dead branches, dead leaves and leaves damaged by pests and diseases, so that the plant shape is neat and beautiful. Leaf-watching flower varieties with stripes and leaves are formed by germination of green plants. The growth of green branches is stronger than that of mottled and mosaic branches, so it is necessary to prune them in time to prevent green branches and leaves from being covered with mottled and mosaic branches and maintain the characteristics of the original varieties. It should be noted that conifers such as five-needle pine are not suitable for defoliation.
Potted pruning techniques 1. It's not too early to cut late.
It is generally believed that when trees stop growing in winter, it is the best time to prune branches. Winter scissors? . This view is not comprehensive enough. To be precise, some tree species can be cut down in winter, such as Lagerstroemia indica. After being cut short in winter, the branches look very dry. When spring comes, new buds will grow on the short branches. But there are two situations that will make the winter shear invalid. First, tree species are not suitable, such as elm. Once the branches of elm are cut, they are easy to lose water, so after being cut in winter, the short branches of elm will dry up due to water loss in the long dry winter. Second, the branches are too thin, no matter what tree species, cutting the branches too thin in winter will inevitably cause the branches to die. Actually? Spring cut? Better than what? Winter scissors? . Prune trees before germination in early spring. At this time, the air temperature is high, and new buds will sprout in a short time, so don't worry about the dry branches. With what? Winter scissors? Compared with? Spring cut? There is no other harm. Trees that bloom in spring, such as azaleas and plum blossoms, must be pruned later, or pruning will be counterproductive.
Second, cut thick but not thin.
Some people pursue the rapid prototyping of bonsai, and they can't wait to cut the new branches without lignification. They hope to grow side branches again that year, and then cut them two or three times a year, so that the bonsai can quickly form several branches. The author has done this before, but it backfired. First, some tree species, such as Ilex cornuta, can't make lateral branches when their branches are not lignified, but sprout from the incision and continue to grow forward without forming an angle. Second, forced pruning will make the work lose motivation. Tree species, such as Ligustrum lucidum and Myrica rubra, can send side branches after cutting off the tender branches. But this is not appropriate. When the branches are cut short to form a bracket, the length of the bracket must be determined in advance. It is assumed that the length of the bracket will not change greatly after the work is formed. But if the branches are tender, they will continue to grow faster. In this way, the length of several brackets will greatly exceed the predetermined length, which is out of proportion. The whole tree is slender and thin and can't be repaired. Practice has proved that the correct way is to wait until the branches are lignified and grow to a predetermined thickness before cutting. In this way, the lateral branches will inevitably form a better angle. In order to overcome impatience, branches used for branch support must grow to a predetermined thickness, usually at least one year. If it is not thick enough, it will grow for another year.
Third, cutting fat is not thin.
After cutting short branches, the branches do not germinate for a long time, and even if they do, the lateral branches do not grow vigorously, which is because of lack of fertilizer. It is necessary to urge the branches to grow strong buds and quickly grow new branches. Will the amount of fertilizer be used? Fat damage? The premise is that the more the better. You can water and fertilize at intervals during the peak season. But be careful not to be too thick. In this way, in the growing season with suitable temperature, the lateral branches should keep growing.
Precautions for pruning potted plants Before pruning potted plants, you should fully understand the growth characteristics and flowering parts of potted plants before pruning. Pruning is generally divided into four situations: heavy cutting, medium cutting, light cutting and coring. Each method corresponds to plants with different habits!
1, strong shear
Re-prune potted flowers blooming on annual branches, such as roses, jasmine, gardenia, hibiscus and crape myrtle. Make it grow new branches and plant regeneration stronger. More flowers and fruits. Knives or scissors used for pruning should be sharp to make the incision smooth and prevent the branches from breaking. In order to prevent the wound from rotting downward, wax can be applied to the wound. When pruning, we should pay attention to the selection of bud eyes that grow outward, which will help the branches spread evenly, make the plants look beautiful, and be conducive to ventilation and light transmission.
2. Moderate shear
Used for potted flowers, such as Chimonanthus praecox, pomegranate and kumquat. If it needs to be cut properly, it can be cut from the middle. Pay equal attention to thinning. For the annual branches that have blossomed, leave 2 ~ 3 buds on the stem to promote the appearance of side branches and sparse long branches, horizontal branches and diseased branches.
3. Optical scissors
For potted flowers blooming on biennial branches, cut them lightly. Such as camellia, gardenia, peach blossom, Milan, white orchid and so on. Just cut off the redundant side branches, diseased branches and tips. Make the main branch strong When pruning, artificial shaping can be carried out. According to personal hobbies and the actual situation of plant growth, it can be trimmed into umbrella shape, pagoda shape and so on.
4. Choose your heart
Also known as topping, it is to cut off or cut off the top of the main stem or lateral branch of a flower plant by hand, so as to break the top advantage of the plant, promote the germination of axillary buds at its lower part, inhibit the overgrowth of branches, and promote the plant to branch more, forming multi-flowered heads and beautiful plant shapes. It is necessary to make it have more lateral buds, short, strong and beautiful plants and lush branches and leaves by pinching and heading for many times, thus increasing the number of flowers and prolonging the flowering time. Cut off the residual flowers in time after the flowers wither, so that the rest of bloom can grow more vigorously.