Fertilization: Clivia should apply solid fertilizer once in winter, less nitrogen fertilizer, more phosphorus fertilizer and potassium fertilizer. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizers can also be applied to promote the germination of more new plants and leaves. Fertilization should be moderate, and it is forbidden to apply thick fertilizer, otherwise it will easily cause rot.
Water: The soil should not be too dry or too wet. Be sure to water thoroughly every time, and water more after budding. Watering and fertilization can be combined once every 20 days. When the room temperature is low, the water should be controlled to prevent the basin soil from getting too wet. Too wet pot soil will cause plants to rot and die, and the pot soil should not be too dry.
4. Heat preservation: The suitable temperature for Clivia to grow in winter is 15-20℃, preferably not lower than 10℃. The temperature behind the dart should be kept around 18℃, and the temperature difference between day and night should be around 10℃, otherwise the flower arrow will bloom if it is not long enough, and it is easy to form an "arrow clip".
5 illumination: Clivia blooms easily in short sunlight. Exposure to the hot sun and direct sunlight in summer will cause sunburn and inhibit growth. It should be cultivated in a semi-cool environment without direct sunlight from May to September every year. But the longer the sunshine in winter, the better. When flowering, weak light can prolong the flowering period. It likes cold and warm, avoiding cold and heat. Generally, it grows well at the temperature of 18-20℃. Under normal circumstances, the flowerpot should be placed in a sunny place indoors during the day to let the sun shine on the plants. Before flowering, flowerpots should also be placed under fluorescent lamps to supplement the light at night. Because the two rows of leaves of Clivia are opposite, if the light stays in one position for a long time, the leaves will grow unevenly, which will affect the ornamental effect. Therefore, we should pay attention to the direction of leaves when dimming, and change the sunny side every 10 days or so. When the blade is perpendicular to the sunny window, the latter effect is better than the former one.
6 Prolonged flowering period: The flowering period of Clivia is mostly from 65438+February to March of the following year. The way to prolong the flowering period is to put the flowers in a dark place when they are about to bloom, control the watering appropriately and keep the temperature at 8- 12℃. This can prolong the flowering period 10-20 days.
Causes and solutions of two Clivia arrowheads.
If you can care correctly according to the above methods, it will generally not cause arrow entrapment. Once the arrow is trapped, the effect can only be obtained by using the correct method. Specific countermeasures are:
1 Fertilizer adjustment: Clivia turns into reproductive growth period in autumn, and the fertilizer requirement increases. If the fertilizer is not properly applied, it is not conducive to malnutrition. Therefore, we should pay attention to fertilizer adjustment. Generally, after Clivia has been cultivated for three years, it is necessary to increase the number of fertilization in autumn. It is best to use liquid fertilizer with high phosphorus content and apply more 20% potassium dihydrogen phosphate when necessary to promote the differentiation and formation of flower buds, quickly "shoot arrows" and bloom early.
Water transfer: Water can keep the plants of Clivia in a normal posture, and the cells and tissues in the body contain enough water for normal physiological activities. Clivia can't fly and blossom without water, and its leaves will wither, wither, droop and curl. Therefore, in archery, it is necessary to break the conventional watering method of "seeing wet and seeing dry", appropriately increase the amount of watering, and never let the basin soil dry thoroughly, otherwise the arrow will be caught and the flowering will be affected.
3 Temperature regulation: The optimum temperature for Clivia growth is 15℃-25℃, below which it is difficult to blossom. If the pseudobulb uplift of Clivia is found, the newly-grown leaves appear "arrow path" (meaning that after the flower buds of Clivia are differentiated, the newly-grown leaves are squeezed by the flower buds), which is a sign of "archery". At this time, we should pay attention to adjust the temperature to 25℃ during the day and control it at 15℃ at night.
Decompression: Because the pressure of the leaf sheath and pseudobulb is too great, the arrow can't escape because it is caught in it, which is another reason for the arrow. If this happens, the scabbard of the scabbard can be cut 1.5cm with a sterilized blade to reduce the pressure of the scabbard base on the scabbard and promote the detachment of the scabbard.
Third, the method of correcting the skew of Clivia leaves:
1 Use a small clip with appropriate strength (such as a small bamboo clip for drying) to pad soft paper to directly clamp the crooked leaves and straight leaves together, and after a period of time, the crooked leaves can be corrected.
2 opaque tin foil paper or cardboard is folded into the width of 1/2 according to the length of the blade and fixed on the blade with hairpins or round needles. If the blade is skewed there, just fix it there and the blade will recover in a few days. In this process, we should pay attention to observation at any time to prevent overcorrection.
When viewed from the front of Clivia, some two leaves are spaced apart, and some two leaves are next to each other. Cardboard can be used to make a set of plates. According to the number of leaves, open some equally spaced grooves and carefully clip the leaves inside. After the treatment and shaping of the above methods, Clivia reached the ideal shape of looking at a line from the side and facing upwards like a fan.
Usually, we should pay attention to the placement direction of Clivia, point the top of the leaves in the north-south direction respectively, and rotate the flowerpot regularly by 180 degrees to change the north-south direction of the two groups of leaves in turn.
Clivia had better change soil in spring and autumn, because the temperature is suitable at this time, Clivia grows vigorously, and changing soil will not affect its growth. In the south, the vigorous growth period of Clivia is from March to June. At this time, the lowest temperature in southern China is generally 10℃~ 15℃, and the highest temperature is 20℃~28℃, and some areas may exceed 30℃, which is the suitable growth temperature for Clivia. According to the actual situation in this area, foster care personnel can turn over pots and change soil in March-April; The second is August-September, with warm and cold weather and moderate temperature, which is the second vigorous growth period of Clivia. According to the growth of plants, in mid-August, growers can turn over pots in autumn. It should be noted that it is best not to change the soil after Clivia shoots, or at the budding and flowering stage, because plants need more nutrients at this stage, and the implementation of soil changing operation will affect the continuous supply of nutrients. However, if it is necessary to change the soil because of poor soil quality, we should also be careful not to break up the lump to minimize the losses caused by changing the soil.
Tank changing operation
For flowerpots that need soil replacement, they must be watered once the day before soil replacement to make them permeable. When changing pots, put the potted flowers obliquely on the ground, hold the pseudobulb of the plant with one hand and the flowerpot with the other, turn it upside down slowly, and tap the edge of the pot on the wooden bench, and the plants will be exposed. If you want to change pots for an adult Clivia over 4 years old, it needs two people to operate, that is, one person holds the pseudobulb of the plant with both hands, and the other person holds the flowerpot with both hands, and gently taps the edge of the pot on the wooden bench to take out the plant. When clivia is taken out, be careful not to break the soil to avoid damaging the root system.
After plants come out of the pot, they should gently peel off the soil, and at the same time remove the decaying fleshy roots (but no rotting fleshy roots, no matter how long they are, can't be cut off, because these fleshy roots and their tops have many hairs, which can not only absorb water and nutrients, but also secrete various acids, dissolve insoluble nutrients in the soil and expand absorption. If it is cut down, although the plant will not die, it will definitely affect its growth. Then wash the roots with clear water (don't wash the seedlings for one or two years), air them for two or three hours, and then put them on the pot.
When replacing a new flowerpot, first cover half of the drainage hole at the bottom of the flowerpot with a piece of debris, and then put a piece of debris obliquely on the other half of the drainage hole, which is beneficial to ventilation and drainage. At the same time, the bottom of the flowerpot is padded with a layer of wood chips or slag particles to improve drainage and air permeability, and then filled with a layer of loose coarse-grained soil or large humus soil. In this way, the roots of Clivia are easy to stretch, and the ventilation and drainage are better, so as to avoid the fine soil blocking the holes at the bottom of the basin, causing excessive water accumulation and rotten roots. You can water it twice when loading soil. When the cultivated soil reaches half a pot, hold Clivia pseudobulb in your right hand and gently lift it upward to straighten the root system, and then water it for the first time 1 time. In this way, nutrient soil can smoothly enter the rhizosphere and avoid soil shortage in some rhizosphere. When the nutrient soil is 2~ cm away from the basin mouth, water is poured again to make the nutrient soil solid. Water it thoroughly twice.
Clivia, a new pot, should be placed in the shade for about 10 days to slow down the evaporation of water and make it gradually regain its vitality. This is called "serving pot". After 10, the light can be gradually increased.
The yellowing of Clivia leaves is mostly a physiological disease, and the inducement is some physiological factors, such as temperature, light and water. Ventilation, etc. To prevent yellow leaves, we should find out the reasons and treat them symptomatically.
(1) temperature: The suitable temperature for Clivia is 15 ~ 25℃. When the temperature exceeds 30 CC for a long time in summer, the growth is inhibited. At this time, if the air humidity is lower than 6q, the leaves of Clivia will become shallow, yellow and even wilt; If the humidity is higher than 90%, the stems and leaves will grow white. In order to prevent these undesirable phenomena, we should reduce the temperature appropriately, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, and control the humidity. When the temperature drops below SC, Clivia basically stops growing. If the temperature drops to about OC, freezing injury may occur, which will turn the tip and edge of leaves green and yellow, and even yellow-white necrotic spots will appear. Therefore, Clivia should pay attention to keep warm in winter to prevent freezing injury.
(2) Illumination: Clivia is a semi-sunny flower and likes to scatter light. Too strong light is bad for its growth and easy to cause sunburn. However, if the place is too dark and the light is insufficient for a long time, the leaves will lose their luster, the old leaves will be dark green, and the new leaves will become thin, yellow or yellow-green. Some people call this yellow leaf phenomenon Huang Yin. At this time, Clivia should move to a place with a little stronger light. When it is not suitable for moving, you can use lights to supplement the light.
(3) Soil fertilizer: Clivia likes loose and fertile sandy loam. Soil hardening and insufficient fertilizer supply will make the leaves yellow and affect flowering. At this time, dilute liquid fertilizer should be applied, and attention should be paid to loosening the soil.
(4) Moisture: Clivia likes humidity, and the pot soil is too dry for a long time, which makes the leaves turn yellow when the temperature is high. But long-term over-watering can easily lead to diseases. Therefore, in the cultivation of Clivia, the soil should be kept moist in spring and autumn, slightly dry in winter and not overheated in summer. Every morning and evening, you can properly spray leaves and surrounding ground with clear water to keep a cool environment.
(5) Ventilation: Clivia is placed too densely, and the surrounding environment is closed, which hinders air circulation and makes the plants thin and yellow. Therefore, indoor ventilation should be strengthened to avoid crowding.
Clivia cultivation
① Soil: Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus, with good air permeability, good water permeability, fertile soil and slight acidity (pH6.5). About 20% sand grains penetrate into humus soil, which is beneficial to root culture. Pots for cultivation are gradually increasing with the growth of plants, and 3-inch pots are suitable for cultivating annual seedlings. Change a 5-inch pot the next year, and then change a bigger flowerpot every 1-2 years. Changing pots can be done in spring and autumn.
2 watering: Clivia has developed fleshy roots, and the roots store a certain amount of water, so this flower is more drought-tolerant. However, drought-tolerant flowers should not be seriously short of water, especially in the case of high temperature and dry air in summer. Otherwise, it will damage the roots and leaves of flowers, resulting in the failure of new leaves to germinate. The scorching of the original leaves will not only affect flowering, but even lead to plant death. However, watering too much will rot the roots. Therefore, it is necessary to master it well and always pay attention to the dryness and wetness of the basin soil. If it is semi-dry, you should water it once, but the amount of water should not be too much. It is just right to keep the basin soil moist. Then, how about watering every few days? In general, water 1 time a day in spring; Watering in summer, you can water the leaves and the surrounding ground with a fine watering can, twice a day on sunny days; Watering every other day in autumn 1 time; Watering every other day in winter 1 time; Water once a week or less in winter. But it must be noted that this refers to the "general situation". We must be flexible in combining different specific situations. For example, water more on sunny days; Water less on cloudy days, and water every few days on continuous cloudy days; Don't water it in rainy days. When the temperature is high and the air is dry, water several times a day; If the flowerpot is large, it is not easy to dry because of the large water storage capacity of the soil, so you can water it less; The flowerpot is small, and the water is easy to evaporate, so water it properly. The flowerpot should be placed in a well-ventilated and easy-to-evaporate place and watered appropriately; In places with poor ventilation, slow evaporation and high air humidity, water less. You can water less at seedling stage; More watering is needed during flowering. In short, it depends on the specific situation, so as to ensure that the basin soil is soft and moist, not too dry and too damp.
Conditional, of course, it is best to use magnetized water; Followed by rain, snow or river water, followed by pond water, and the worst is tap water. Flower farmers living in big cities only have tap water available, so they can fill tap water in small water tanks or basins and water them every 2-3 days. This may precipitate some harmful impurities in water. In addition, the substances contained in the water can be oxidized and purified, and the temperature of the water can be close to the humidity of the basin soil, neither too cold nor too hot, and plants will be hurt.
③ Fertilization: Many flowers are fertilizer-loving, but there is a limit to the fertilization of fertilizer-loving flowers. Excessive fertilization will be detrimental to growth, and even lead to rotten roots or scorched plants. Clivia also belongs to this plant, so it must be properly fertilized. Flowers have different requirements for nutrients at different growth and development stages. Therefore, different fertilization methods suitable for plants should be adopted at each stage. Such as applying base fertilizer, topdressing and fertilizing outside the roots.
(1) Apply base fertilizer (or base fertilizer). The purpose is to create conditions for the growth and development of plants and meet their demand for nutrients. Clivia should apply base fertilizer when changing pots every two years. Apply manure (that is, livestock manure), compost, green manure and bean cake fertilizer commonly used in soil.
(2) topdressing. Mainly to promote the growth of plants. Clivia can use cake fertilizer, fish meal, bone meal and other fertilizers. Apply less at the beginning of planting, and with the growth of plants and the increase of leaves, the amount of fertilization will gradually increase. When applying fertilizer, you only need to pull open the pot soil and apply it to a depth of 2-3 cm, but be careful not to put the fertilizer too close to the root system to avoid burning the root system. This kind of solid fertilizer is generally enough to be applied once a month, and it should not be dense again.
(3) topdressing liquid fertilizer. Top dressing liquid fertilizer is prepared by soaking and retting decomposed animals and plants, adding 30-40% clear water to the supernatant, and then pouring it on the basin soil. Small seedlings should be watered 40 times, middle seedlings should be watered 30 times, and big seedlings can only be watered 20 times. After pouring the fertilizer solution, water should be poured every 1-2 days (the amount of water should not be too much) to make the fertilizer penetrate into the root of the basin soil and give full play to the fertilizer efficiency. Do not water before applying liquid fertilizer 1-2 days. It is more effective to dry the basin soil with some re-fertilizing liquid. Fertilization time is best in the early morning; When dumping, the fertilizer solution should be dumped along the edge of the basin, and care should be taken to avoid smearing on plants and leaves.
In addition, different fertilizers should be applied according to different seasons. For example, some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied in spring and winter, such as fish meal, bone meal and sesame cake. It is beneficial to the formation of veins and improve the gloss of leaves; In autumn, it is advisable to daub the leaching solution of rotting animal hair, horns, hooves or bean cakes, and dilute it with 30-40 times of clear water to promote the growth of leaves.
(4) Topdressing outside the roots. This fertilization is mainly to make up for the lack of nutrients in the soil, so as to solve the problem of fertilizer deficiency in plants, so that seedlings grow fast and flowers and fruits grow fat. External fertilization is to spray the diluent of fertilizer directly on the leaves of plants with a sprayer, so that nutrients can penetrate into the tissues in the leaves through epidermal cells and stomata of the leaves and then be transported to the whole plant. Commonly used fertilization varieties are urea, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, calcium superphosphate and so on. When spraying, spray evenly on both sides of the leaves. Spraying/kloc-0 once every 4-6 days during the growth period, and spraying/kloc-0 once every 2 weeks during the semi-dormancy period, usually after sunrise, and stopping the drug after flowering. It must be noted that this method can only be used when plants are found to be deficient in fertilizer. This plant should not be used if it is nutritious and full of vitality.