How to make crabs?
Hu Xie

There is a traditional seafood processing method in Haidilao-stewing, which is a cooking skill between boiling and steaming, and is often used to stew crabs and scorpions.

When I was a child, cooking at home used firewood to burn the cauldron. At that time, the main room at home was the kitchen, and there was a stove on each side of the main room. There is a ten-printing pot on the stove, and the crabs cooked with it are particularly delicious. In the crab harvest season, my mother put a sea bowl on the bottom of the pot, then poured some fresh water, piled the crabs in the pot, sprinkled a handful of big salt particles on the floating head and covered the lid. At that time, there were two kinds of pot covers, one was a wooden pot cover and the other was a straw pot cover. When you cook crabs, you often use a layer of cage cloth to tightly cover the pot. A pot with a loose lid will be "slightly windy", which means that the crabs next to the ventilated place will not be cooked thoroughly. The fire in the stove pit is weeds picked up by my brothers and sisters from the reed circle in winter, and it is best to burn reed at most. Reed has a soft fire and is most suitable for stewing rice and crabs. When the hot air covers the stove, the smell of food will float all over the room and into the yard.

Crabs have many skills, so it's just right to boil crabs. When the pot is filled with hot air, the fresh fragrance of the crab changes from shallow to thick, so people who watch the pot should pay attention to reducing the fire. When the heat emitted by the pot cover is reduced, the fire can be stopped, and if it is burned again, it may dry the pot. Dry pot is a trivial matter, but if the crab in the pot is burnt, it will be big. When the fire stops, when the hot air on the pot cover calms down, it is necessary to lift the pot cover, otherwise the fragrance in the pot will affect the fresh fragrance of the crab. At this time, the pot boiled and the red crab came into view. The delicious taste rushed into the nostrils, and a pot of good crabs was served on the table. I wonder how many people are intoxicated.

I often listen to my mother tell a story about burning a fire. It is said that there is an evil mother-in-law in the village. She sat on the hole in the house while her daughter-in-law was cooking, and when the food was almost cooked and fragrant, she came down from the kang, thinking that her daughter-in-law was a waste. After burning for a long time, she didn't cook the crab. She went up and made two fire crabs. Mom said that there were many daughters-in-law who suffered indignities at that time, and there were not a few in the village who suffered such grievances.

Since leaving Caijiabao, there has been no stove and firewood is no longer used for cooking. Many people complain that they couldn't eat crabs and scorpions when they were young. Actually, it's not. I have always insisted on simmering crabs and water scorpions. Of course, I also experienced failure at first. Over the years, I have summarized a set of methods for cooking crabs and water scorpions on gas stoves. The advantage of delicious crabs is boiled water, which limits the loss of raw juice to the maximum extent. When people can't cook crabs well, they choose to steam crabs, while laymen choose to cook crabs. Their disadvantage is that the umami taste of crabs is taken away by a lot of water.

The key of crab is the control of water. Under the existing conditions, it is relatively easy for me to soak scorpions in water. Wash the fresh water scorpions and put them into the pot, sprinkle some sea salt on the floating head, cover the pot with a transparent cover, and then put the water scorpions on fire. It is estimated that when the water scorpion is about to be cooked, it is the key to stand by and watch it. Carefully observe the concentration of hot air on the lid and the color of water scorpions in the pot. When the hot air turns from thick to light, the water scorpions in the pot are basically dyed red by shrimp lycopene, and then you can smell the unique fresh fragrance of the water scorpions. At this point, it can be concluded that the water scorpion is ripe, so turn off the fire. When the hot air on the pot cover is collected, the pot cover must be opened, so as to taste the traditional taste in a mature way. Because crabs are big, it is more difficult to soak crabs than scorpions. I will buckle a big bowl at the bottom of the pot as traditional, try not to let the water touch the crab, and the water in the pot is as suitable as possible. It is often praised by friends, but the tradition tastes good.

Nowadays, many people are forgetting the skills of Su seafood, and often hear people around them complain that their mother-in-law is difficult to serve. They complain that the relationship between mother-in-law and daughter-in-law is completely different from that in the old society. Sometimes some grandmothers have to look at their daughter-in-law's face in order to see their grandchildren. From this, I am thinking that the relationship between cooked crabs and their mother-in-law is the same. Cultural inheritance is the same as our concept inheritance, and we need to take its essence and discard its dross.

1. Prepare ingredients: crab, ginger, cooking wine and salt. First, put the bought crabs into the pot, pour some water and keep it for 30 to 60 minutes. During this period, you can add some white wine to the water, which can better remove the fishy smell of crabs.

2. Brush the crab clean with a brush. You can tie the crab with a rope first, so as not to hurt your hand. Pour the right amount of water into the pot and put the crab into the pot. Add the prepared materials and cook for about 30 minutes. If the crab is bigger, you can add some time.

Generally, crabs are almost ripe when they turn orange. You can eat them with some balsamic vinegar.