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How to prune potted papaya?
Papaya cultivated in the field are mostly natural round heads, natural flat-topped cups, with many main branches and slender spindles. Potted ornamental papaya is mostly straight and oblique, with a dry height of 20 ~ 30 cm. Select 2 ~ 4 robust branches to stagger and fork around, with the main branch about 10 cm away from the trunk, leaving short 15 ~ 20 cm. Select 2 branches with spatial development at the top of each branch, which can be one long and one short, or use the flat-topped cup method, and leave 2 branches in the middle trunk first. Every year, the crown extends around, and if it is long, it can be retracted at the branches of 2-3 years old, forming a flat-topped cup-shaped tree with beautiful appearance. Because the wound of papaya branches is not easy to heal and the wound is easy to crack downwards, the method of cutting off and storing branches is not used very much.

Chopping is the main cutting method of papaya in winter, supplemented by density. Generally, except for the branches protruding from the top of the main lateral branches, the vegetative branches sprouting at the base or middle of each branch generally taper from the base. If the space is large, you can cut one short, weighing 5 ~ 12 cm. The drooping branches, inward branches and overlapping branches that germinated in that year were all cut off from the base, and the branch spacing was 15 ~ 20 cm. Papaya will produce a large number of long, medium and short branches after pruning every year. The branches are dense and the nutrients are scattered, which affects ventilation and light transmission and the formation of flower buds. Potted papaya, we must do a good job of cutting branches and thinning fruits. Generally, from the middle and late May to the beginning of June, the thinning and fruiting are carried out at the same time. That is, from the base of the main lateral branch at the lower part of the crown, the branches are thinned from the inside out, and most of the small vegetative branches germinated on the main lateral branch are broken off by hand, and some short tufted branches are kept. If there is space in the crown, a small number of branches or fruiting branches can be reserved as appropriate. For branches and leaves close to the fruit, in order to prevent the surface of the fruit from being worn, half of the leaves should be broken or cut off as appropriate, and a part of the whole new shoot sprouting at the top of each main branch should be broken as appropriate to cultivate strong branches. At the same time, according to the fruit size of the variety and the bearing capacity of each branch, try to leave the fruit at the base or middle of the branch, and the spacing between the fruits is 20 ~ 30 cm.

For perennial potted trees, only branches and branchlets with diameters less than 1.5 cm are pruned in winter. For trees with a diameter of 1.5 cm or more, in order to prevent withering and cracking, the trees should be pruned when the nutrients are active after germination in the following spring, and the Pinza is generally used for setting, and the angles and positions of branches should be adjusted. Because the fruiting mother branches of papaya are terminal, the useful fruiting mother branches should not be cut short, and the drooping ones should be cut off from the base, leaving the new branches at the base for renewal. For robust new shoots and fruiting branches, control should be carried out in summer, useful ones should be cored, and useless ones should be thinned out from the base as soon as possible. Roots sprouting branches should be pulled out in time. For the upright branches on the main branch, the competitive branches should be thinned in time, and 1 ~ 2 buds should be left on the missing branches to promote the growth of branches.