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How to prune pear trees in spring
1. Re-cutting before flowering: Reasonable re-cutting before flowering can adjust flower quantity, concentrate nutrition, reduce consumption, improve fruit setting rate, prevent year after year and realize high yield year after year. The specific methods are as follows: the annual tree has a large amount of flowers, so you can lightly cut some short and medium fruit branches or break the top flower buds when you cut them again, so as to exchange flowers for flowers. According to its bearing capacity, the cross-flower branches should be properly retracted, generally leaving 2~4 flower buds. Young trees, mistakenly thinking that there are flowers in winter, actually have no flowers, should be cut short in the middle to promote the growth of branches and prevent flowering in the same year, so as to adjust the yield and overcome the big and small years. Too dense non-flowering branches and branches should be thinned out. Pear trees in northern China are often damaged by low temperature, strong wind and late frost during flowering, which affects normal pollination and fertilization. Therefore, it is necessary to leave more flower buds appropriately and then sparse them after fruit setting.

2. Bud carving and bud grafting: Most pear varieties have weak branching ability. Proper application of bud carving technology can increase the number of branches and expand the crown. In order to promote the development of big branches or solve the bald zone of 2-3 years old branches, a small saw blade can be used to cut a line along the teeth 20-30 days before germination to reach xylem1/4; In order to promote the development of short branches and middle branches, it is advisable to carve a branch 0.5cm above the bud, reaching the xylem, with a length of 1/3~ 1/2 branches, the strong branch carving the two sides and part of the back of the bud, the middle branch carving the two sides of the bud and the weak branch carving the side of the bud. From before flowering to the flourishing period of new shoots, for the main branches, the back of the main branches and the base of the main branches within 20cm, the unusable buds on the back of the branches and around the cutting edge should be erased to save nutrients.

3. Branching: Branches that are more than 3 years old are pulled and opened from flowering to mid-May, which has the advantages of soft branches, easy opening, quick wound recovery and less back peeling. Results In the early stage, attention should be paid to the waist angle and sharp angle of the main branch, and the bearing branches with vigorous uniaxial elongation should be leveled or slightly drooped, which can significantly improve the fruit setting rate. In the full fruit period, after a large number of fruits are produced, the branches are prone to drooping, overlapping or crowding, so suspension or support should be adopted to restore and distribute the branches reasonably and improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions.