Fruiting period of potted grapes
1. The whole seedling-raising period: from February to March in spring, select one-year-old mature branches that are woody, stout, free from pests and diseases, short internodes, protruding internodes and full buds, and cut them into short cuttings with 1-2 buds. Put the lower end into clear water for several hours, fully soak it, and then insert it into a humus basin with a basin diameter of more than 20 cm and filled with decomposed base fertilizer. After watering, wrap the pot mouth with a film bag and put it in the sunny place of the balcony. Raising the temperature of the pot soil by sunlight can promote the cuttings to take root early. Pay attention to watering, keep the soil moist and not touch the ground, which is conducive to survival. After the cuttings survived, only 1 bud grew upward. When the new shoot grows to 5-6 leaves, it begins to pick the core, usually 2-3 times. When 5-6 leaves grow again, pick the core for the second time. There are only 3-4 tablets left in the third time. Except the uppermost winter bud, the summer bud has no auxiliary tip to promote the germination and continuous growth of the winter bud. In order to make the new shoots grow upright, a small bamboo pole can be inserted into the pot as a pillar. After coring, leave 1-2 leaves for the secondary branches of summer buds sprouting at the lower nodes. The second and third shoots that grow later are also treated in this way. The sprouted tendrils should be removed in time to avoid consuming nutrients. In this way, the trunk is thick, the winter buds are full and the flower buds are completely differentiated. By the next spring, every winter bud can sprout branches and every branch can bear fruit.
Second, pruning at fruiting stage: potted grapes begin to bear fruit in the second year. Before the cuttings germinate next spring, leave 2-3 buds on the trunk to make them germinate into main vines. If it is an annual seedling bought back, you can put it in a pot first and then cut it short. Winter buds grow new branches, with inflorescences as fruiting branches and without inflorescences as developing branches. Inflorescences are usually planted on 4-7 nodes of fruiting branches. When the inflorescence appears, leave 35 leaves on the inflorescence for coring. Because it is the first time to bear fruit, only 1 ear is left. At the same time, pinch off 1/5 and 1/4 at the tip of the ear and the whole ear. Potted grapes generally don't leave developing branches, but when the bearing branches are too few and the shelf surface is empty, they should be kept properly, and when the developing branches grow to 3-5 leaves, they should also be picked. 1~2 leaves are all reserved as secondary buds, and the secondary and tertiary secondary buds are also treated in the same way. In order to increase the light-receiving area of leaves, strengthen photosynthesis, and make the ear droop and grow, every 1 branch should be tied with columns, and two lead wire circles should be tied between the columns to make it firm and beautiful. After fruiting in the second year, it should be trimmed back in winter, and two fruiting branches can be left, cut short at 2-3 buds, and all other branches are cut off. In the future, two fruiting branches will be left every winter, each with 2-3 buds. After the main vine bears fruit for many years, the productivity will decline. At the same time, in order to avoid the upward movement of the fruiting part and the bare lower branches, the new shoots germinated by cryptoshoots can be cultured in the lower part of perennial vines to prepare branches for future retraction and renewal.
Through our introduction, I believe everyone has a deeper understanding of the methods of grape pruning and potted plants.