We all know that cherries belong to the first echelon of fresh fruits. They are picked earlier, allowing us to enjoy the taste of fresh fruits first. Because cherries are picked early, some people may forget about post-harvest management of cherries, especially pruning in winter. In fact, some people do not forget, but do not pay attention to the winter pruning of cherries. In fact, winter pruning of cherries, like the application of base fertilizer, is crucial to the yield and quality of cherries in the coming year.

Pruning of cherry trees mainly includes two pruning periods: winter pruning and summer pruning. In different pruning periods, the pruning tasks and methods used are different, and the results achieved are also different. Generally speaking, summer pruning is also called growth period pruning. It mainly involves topping new shoots during the growth period and thinning or pruning branches after fruit harvesting. The purpose is to inhibit the growth of new shoots, promote branch growth, increase the number of branches, and preserve flower buds. differentiation. The main task of winter pruning, also called dormant period pruning, is to maintain the balanced relationship between normal growth and fruiting of cherry trees, adjust the primary and secondary relationships between backbone branches, so that the tree has a reasonable fresh structure, and build various fruiting branch groups to lay the foundation for high yields. A solid foundation.

Although the pruning of cherry trees is divided into two periods: winter pruning and summer pruning, if the cherries are pruned in winter, usually after the leaves fall and before they sprout, it is easy to cause the cut edges to shrink. Glue flow occurs, consuming a large amount of water and nutrients, and even causing the death of large branches. Therefore, the task of pruning cherries is mainly done in summer.

Compared with winter pruning, summer pruning of cherry trees has the following advantages: First, the cut is easy to heal and not easy to die; second, summer pruning dwarfs the tree body, stabilizes the tree's vigor, and can make it more mature. Effective use of space; third, because the excessive growth of the tree is suppressed, the blight caused by the Verticillium fungus is eliminated, and the bacterial gum disease that harms the tree during the dormant period of the sapling is suppressed ; Fourth, it increases the number of branches and leaves, promotes the formation of flower buds, and results in early fruits.

Although in most cases the pruning and shaping of cherries is completed in summer, the importance of winter pruning cannot be ignored. However, pruning in winter requires a certain amount of heat, especially the timing, because if the timing is not grasped well during this period, it is easy to cause glue leakage. The dormant period of cherries generally lasts from the beginning of leaf fall in mid-to-late November to the budding in March or early April of the next year, which lasts for 140-150 days. During the entire dormancy period, the appropriate time for pruning is as late as possible, and pruning is best in mid-to-late March when it is close to budding. The earlier the pruning time is, the longer the wound will lose water. In the second spring, it will be easy to ooze glue, which will affect the growth. In severe cases, it can also cause the death of the branches.

For cherry pruning, pruning of cherry trees during the peak fruiting period is the most common. Let’s talk about the characteristics of pruning for cherry trees during the fruiting period. Generally speaking, under normal circumstances, cherry trees can enter the fruiting period 7-8 years after they are planted. This period is characterized by a rapid increase in output and a gradual weakening of growth. Therefore, pruning during the fruit-bearing period is mainly to adjust the tree structure, improve light conditions, maintain strong tree vigor, and extend the fruit-bearing life.

After a large number of cherry trees bear fruit during the fruiting period, as the age of the tree increases, the tree vigor and fruiting branch groups gradually weaken, and the fruiting parts move outward. Therefore, during the pruning process, attention should be paid to thinning out weak branches and retaining strong branches at all times. Adjust the balanced relationship between growth and fruiting, maintain a large amount of new shoot growth and an appropriate number of fruiting branches and vegetative branches. At the same time, the group of rejuvenated and aging fruiting branches should be constantly updated to maintain more effective fruiting parts inside the crown. . Large branches with strong growth, as well as overly dense perennial branches that affect the shape of the tree, large branches with bare rear parts and outward-moving fruiting parts, can be thinned or pruned after fruit harvesting.

For main and lateral extension branches with strong growth, when they are 40-50 cm long, one-third to one-quarter of the apex can be cut off; for extension branches with moderate growth, if When the growth is normal and the annual growth does not exceed 20 cm, it does not need to be shortened. When pruning extension branches, be sure to leave leaf buds, not flower buds, to prevent the branches from being removed after fruiting and affecting the expansion of the crown.

Perennial drooping branches in the crown, as well as thin, aging fruit-bearing branches, should be regenerated and rejuvenated. They can be cut back to good branches, and the angle of the branches should be raised. Enhance the growth of the tree; at the same time, take measures such as removing the weak and leaving the strong, removing the distant and leaving the near, and replacing the old with the new to renew and rejuvenate. Attention should also be paid to continuously increasing the proportion of leaf buds in the branch group, maintaining normal growth and fruiting capabilities, delaying the outward movement of the fruiting parts, and preventing the inner cavity from being empty. For fruit-bearing branch groups that have continued to bear fruit for many years, you can prune the 2-3-year-old branch segments at the tip of the branch group to promote branch growth, enhance growth, and restore fruit-bearing ability.

When pruning, you must pay attention to the appropriate amount of splaying and retracting, so that the retraction is not excessive and the splaying is not weak, so as to achieve the purpose of producing more fruiting branches, good quality, and high yield.