Pruning of cherries can be divided into summer pruning and winter pruning.
summer pruning: the purpose of summer pruning is to reduce the ineffective growth of new shoots, increase the amount of branches and leaves, improve the lighting conditions, and make the tree form early, blossom early and bear fruit early. The main pruning methods are: opening angle, coring, twisting tip, wiping bud, girdling, girdling and so on.
winter pruning: winter pruning refers to pruning after the tree enters winter dormancy. Its main methods are: short cutting, slow release, retraction, thinning and so on.
2. Main tree shape and shaping process
Natural happy shape: This tree shape is similar to that of peach trees. The trunk height is 3-4 cm, and there is no trunk. The whole tree has 3-5 main branches with an opening angle of 3-4 degrees. Each main branch has 2-3 lateral branches, which extend outward at an opening angle of 7-8 degrees. Different types of fruiting branches are cultivated on the main branches and lateral branches. The height of the tree is controlled at about 3 meters, and the crown is oblate or round.
Improved trunk shape: the trunk is 5-6 cm high, with an upright trunk, on which more than 1 main branches extend in a single axis, and the spiral focuses on the central trunk, and the angle is nearly horizontal; The main branch can be layered or not, and the bearing branch group is planted on the main branch; The height of a tree is generally about 3 meters. When the planting density is low, it can be higher, and when the density is high, it can be shorter.
free spindle shape: it has an upright and robust central trunk, and the whole tree has 1-12 small main branches distributed on the central trunk, with the lower main branch being longer and the upper main branch being shorter, with the ratio of main branches being 3-3.5: 1. The main branches can be arranged in a layer with 3-4 bases, and the distance between layers is 3-4 cm, and then the main branches are not layered, so that the main branches are evenly inserted spirally upward. The main branch is big and small. The opening angles of the main branches on the same tree are different according to the location of the main branches. The lower main branches are 8-85 degrees, and the middle and upper main branches are 85-9 degrees. The whole tree has main branches without side branches, and the bearing branches are directly on the main branches.
slender spindle shape: it has a central trunk, the trunk height is 4-6cm, the tree height is 2-3.5m, and the crown diameter is 1.5-2.5m. There are three main branches in the first layer, and there are no side branches on the main branches, which directly bear fruit branches. There are 15-25 lateral branches with uniform size and horizontal growth evenly distributed on the central trunk above the main branch of the first layer, which are distributed in rotation, regardless of hierarchy. The lower branches are slightly longer, the upper branches are slightly shorter, the whole tree is slender, the top is acute, and the whole tree is slender and spindle-shaped, which is suitable for close planting in dwarfing culture.
The small crown is sparse: the stem height is 3-6cm, the tree height is 3.-3.5m, and the crown diameter is 3.-3.5m.. There are 6 main branches, which are divided into 3 layers, 3 in the first layer, 2 in the second layer and 1 in the third layer. The base angle of the main branches is 6-7 degrees, and the spacing between layers is 6 cm. Above the second floor, the main branches do not leave lateral branches, and the bearing branches are directly planted.
Hedge wall shape: The form and tree shape of its vertical frame are similar to the double-arm vertical frame of grapes, and the branches of sweet cherries are tied to the wire frame to form a hedge wall shape.
3. Problems that should be paid attention to in cherry pruning
The main problems are as follows: (1) There are too many short cuts in young tree pruning, and the years of short cuts are also long, resulting in dense branches, poor lighting conditions and tree disorder; (2) all fruit trees will be shortened in pruning, regardless of variety; (3) regardless of the strength of the tree, adopt a method to prune; ④ The same pruning method should be adopted regardless of the growing season and age.
Problems that should be paid attention to: ① Pruning in winter can be carried out during the whole dormancy period, but the later the cherry is, the better, and it is generally appropriate to prune when the bud is budding. ② The flower buds of cherry are lateral pure flower buds, and the terminal buds are leaf buds. After flowering and fruiting, the flower buds form blind nodes and no longer germinate. When pruning the fruiting branches, the cutting buds should not stay on the flower buds, but on 2-3 leaf buds above the flower bud segment. (3) After the branches of trees are injured, they are easily infected by germs, leading to gum leakage or disease. Therefore, in field management, special care should be taken not to damage the trees and branches. Cherry trees should be carefully girdled, which is easy to flow and break after girdling. ④ Cherry likes light and has strong polarity. When pruning, if there are too many short peripheral branches, the number of peripheral branches will be too large, the branches will be crowded tightly, and the upper branches will be strong and the lower branches will be weak. ⑤ Attention should be paid to variety characteristics. After girdling the big cherry tree, the wound heals slowly, so the girdling width should not exceed .5cm, and because of the different tree vigor of the big cherry tree, especially the application of organic fertilizer ... > >
Question 2: When is the best time to prune cherry trees? The branches of cherry trees can be divided into developing branches and fruiting branches. There are many developing branches on young trees, and the front leaf buds extend and grow, expanding the crown, and the lower axillary buds produce fruiting branches. After entering the fruiting period, most of the annual branches are called fruiting branches, the terminal buds are outside the leaf buds, and the axillary buds are mostly flower buds. The fruiting branches are divided into long fruit branches (15 ~ 2cm), medium fruit branches (5 ~ 15cm), short fruit branches (about 5cm) and flower cluster fruit branches (1 ~ 2cm) according to their length. From the perspective of fruiting ability, the fruit-setting ability of long fruit branches is poor, generally around 4%; The fruiting ability of middle fruit branches varies with varieties; Short fruit branches have high fruit setting rate and good fruit quality; Flower-clustered fruit
Question 3: When and how to prune cherry trees? Pruning cherry trees in winter can be carried out from 1 days after falling leaves in autumn to about half a month before germination in spring, and it is best to finish pruning in January of the solar calendar.
The key points of cherry tree pruning in winter are as follows: according to the basic tree shape, choose the appropriate tree shape (natural open-heart shape, small crown and sparse layer shape); When pruning, it is mainly to remove (cut off from the base) the upright branches, too dense branches, thin branches, cross branches, overlapping branches, pest branches, etc. on the back to improve the illumination of the inner hall of the crown; Give priority to with thinning, as little as possible short cut.
In the young tree period, attention should be paid to widening the angle of the main branches, relaxing the tree potential and advancing the fruiting years.
Question 4: When will the cherry tree be pruned? 1. Pruning of the cherry tree in the full fruit period
Under normal circumstances, the cherry tree can enter the full fruit period after being planted for 7-8 years. This period is characterized by a rapid increase in output and a gradual decline in growth. Pruning in full fruit period is mainly to adjust the tree structure, improve the lighting conditions, maintain the strong tree vigor and prolong the full fruit period. In the process of pruning, we should always pay attention to thinning weak branches, keeping strong branches, adjusting the balance between growth and fruiting, maintaining a large amount of new shoot growth and an appropriate number of fruiting branches and nutrient branches, and at the same time, constantly renewing and rejuvenating ...
2. Pruning techniques for sweet cherry trees < P > The main tasks of annual young trees are to increase branches and grow trees, reshape and expand crowns, and adopt cutting buds and pumping more branches to promote growth. (1) Fixed stem: after planting, the stem height is 6-8 cm, and the buds germinated below the stem height after germination can be erased, and the buds above 5 cm should be strengthened to cultivate the lower branches. (2) winter pruning: pruning the flourishing branches and inward branches on the middle trunk or main branches ..
3. Pruning methods of three-year-old cherry trees < P > For the young cherry trees in the third year, the main pruning task is to finish the crown shaping in spring. Based on the principle of restraining the strong and helping the weak, restraining the former and promoting the latter, the large-scale bearing main branches with uniaxial extension and many bearing branches with uniaxial extension on the main branches are cultivated by uniaxial extension pruning method. To achieve early fruiting and high yield, we should pay attention to maintaining the master-slave relationship, balancing the tree potential, and adjusting the composition and distribution of branches. We should distinguish the opening angles of major branches. The summer pruning of three-year-old cherry trees should be in early July. This time is big cherry ... specifically, 9718859
Question 5: How to deal with the pruning parts of cherry trees? How to prune cherry trees
2: Prune small cherry trees. Small cherry trees should be trimmed into vases to allow light and air to circulate and spread around the branches. In the next few years, dead branches and infected parts should be cleaned up in time to ensure the health and strength of trees. Please see step 1 to learn how to prune your cherry tree at all stages.
Method-1
1 Sterilize your pruning shears and sharpen them. Washing and cutting branches and leaves with dirty and blunt pruning shears will make them infected with diseases. Make sure your scissors are sharp so that they won't damage the branches when pruning. Be careful to disinfect the pruning shears before pruning your tree every time. This may take a few more minutes, but it is worthwhile to ensure that you will not hurt the cherry tree when pruning. [1] Disinfect your pruning shears.
mix 1: 9 bleach and water solution.
soak your scissors in the solution.
rinse it with hot water.
dry with a clean towel.
2 move 6-9cm from the top of the tree. Determining the height of the middle trunk means cutting off from the top of the central trunk to promote the growth of the side branches. It is important to do this in the first year or two after planting a tree, so that you can control its growth shape. Before fixing the stem, measure whether it is high enough. If the sapling is short, wait until it is at least 75 cm higher than when it is planted. Wait until the tree has been planted a little, so as to ensure that it will not damage the tree too much.
come to dry in autumn or winter, during which time the tree is still dormant. If you wait until spring, the trees will sprout. When you prune the tree after the bud grows, the energy entering the bud is wasted. Fixing the stem before germination allows the tree to use that energy to grow healthy branches.
Pruning at a 45-degree angle makes trees less susceptible to illness and decay.
3 after one year, make a spiral scaffold. Spiral scaffolding is composed of lateral branches extending from trees. They provide architecture and keep the shape of the tree balanced. The next winter when you decide to dry, when it sleeps again, choose four strong and evenly spaced branches to make the first spiral scaffold.
look for big branches that are at an angle of 45 or 6 degrees to the trunk. These are the best branches. [2]
Select four branches with a vertical interval of about 2 cm, and the shortest branch is about 45 cm higher than the ground.
cut all four branches to 6 cm. Cut off tree buds at an angle of .6 cm; New buds will appear where you cut them.
trim off the remaining branches. Make the cut pieces flush with the trunk, so that only these branches belong to the spiral frame.
4 there should be two secondary branches under each main branch. Find two well-spaced and strong secondary branches to support it. Cut the remaining branches flush with the basic branches. This can help the tree concentrate its energy on those branches that can produce better fruits.
question 6: how to prune small cherry trees? Pruning techniques for peach trees
Pruning in winter: short cutting, thinning, long release and retraction
(1) Short cutting: cutting off part of annual branches is called short cutting. There must be leaf buds under the cut of short branches. The function of short cutting is to reduce the number of leaf buds and flower buds on the short cut branches, strengthen the growth ability of new shoots from the short cut branches, reduce the branching position and enhance the branching ability.
light and short cutting: cutting off less than 15% of the total length of annual branches, the growth potential of new shoots germinated next year is weak, but the number of new shoots is large, which is mostly used for cultivating medium, short and bouquetlike fruit branches. Or after cutting the strong fruiting branches lightly, increase the number of fruiting branches and control the growth of new shoots.
medium and short cutting: 12% of the total length of the annual branches are cut off, and all the buds are full under the cutting mouth. The new shoots germinated next year have strong growth potential and a large number of strong new shoots are extracted, which are mostly used for pruning the extended branches of the main side branches.
heavy and short cutting: 23~34 of the total length of annual branches are cut off, and the plumpness of buds under the cutting mouth is poor, but the pruning amount is large, so the new shoots sprouting next year have strong growth potential, but the number of new shoots is small, which is mostly used for controlling pruning of strong branches.
extremely heavy and short cut: more than 56% of the total length of annual branches are cut off, and the sprouting branches in the next year are weak. This cutting method is mostly used to cultivate fruiting branches with developing branches and overgrowth fruiting branches.
(2) thinning the branches from the base is called thinning, which is also called pruning. Thinning branches can reduce the density of branches in the crown, improve the ventilation condition of the crown, make the storage nutrition in the tree relatively concentrated and promote the growth of new shoots; After pruning, it will inhibit the upper part of the wound and promote the lower part of the wound. Removing useless branches that are thin, diseased, overgrown, overlapped and densely shaded can promote the growth of the remaining branches.
(3) Let the annual branches grow naturally without cutting. Long-term planting can keep the most buds on branches and slow down the growth of new shoots in the next year. Prolonged fruiting branches or long fruiting branches with excessive growth potential can weaken the top advantage and promote the formation of short and medium fruiting branches.
(4) Retraction refers to the short cutting of perennial branches, also known as reduction. Retraction can reduce the total length of branches, concentrate nutrients and water on the remaining branches, and promote the growth of lower branches, which is beneficial to rejuvenating the tree. Its function is to improve the light condition in the crown, reduce the fruiting position, change the extension direction and angle of the extension branches, control the crown and prolong the fruiting period.
Problems to be paid attention to in peach tree pruning
1. The cut of pruning branches should be smooth, with a 45-degree inclined plane with the cut bud, and cut from the opposite side of the bud, with the upper part of the inclined plane level with the tip of the cut bud, and the lowest part of the inclined plane level with the bud base, so that the cut wound surface is small, easy to heal, and the bud grows quickly after germination. Cut the opening of thinning branches, cut off at the branch point, and leave no residual piles even with the stem.
2. When pruning larger branches and trunks, the division operation method can be adopted. First, at the place 2 cm above the required kerf, cut the kerf upward from the lower part of the branch, the depth is half of the thickness of the branch, cut off the branch from the upper part, leaving a residual pile, and then saw off the residual pile from the kerf, so as to avoid splitting the branch.
3. In order to prevent tree branches from rotting due to rain or invasion of germs, the kerf must be smooth, disinfected with 2% copper sulfate solution, and finally coated with protective agent (wax, ready mixed paint, etc.) to prevent corrosion, dryness and promote healing.
(source cited "Questions and Answers on Key Techniques of Peach Production", China Agricultural Publishing House;
Summer Pruning Techniques in November, 29 by Farmer Staff
(1) In the leaf cluster stage (3~5 cm), all the competitive buds of strong branches and extended branches from the upper part of the back of main branches and lateral branches, on the trunk and near the big cut were erased. Remove double buds and leave single buds, dry branches, branches of diseases and insect pests, waste buds and reduce long fruit branches that have not set fruit. The sprouting of rootstocks should be cut off as soon as possible. By removing sprouting and smearing buds, useless new shoots can be reduced, nutrients can be concentrated, and the remaining branches can be fully developed, and the flower buds and leaf buds are full. Bud smearing and sprouting removal can improve the light condition of the crown and greatly reduce the workload of summer pruning and the wounds caused by summer pruning branches.
(2) Picking the core is easy to produce branches, and the peach tree itself has a large number of secondary shoots, which is more likely to cause too many secondary shoots and a closed crown. Now, in peach tree cultivation, in addition to the shaping of young trees, it is necessary to pick the core of the main branch extension branch.