Pruning grapes in summer can adjust nutrient flow direction, adjust growth state, improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and improve fruit yield and quality. Wipe the bud first and trim the tip. Apply grape buds after the plants germinate. Generally, it is divided into two times, and the adventitious buds on roots and old vines are smeared for 1 time. If it is necessary to update, a small number of buds with proper orientation should be left. After 15 days, the second bud smearing can save nutrients by removing the germination of fruit branches and spikelets. Shooting is done when the new branches have exposed the inflorescence, so you can't distinguish the branches too early, and you will consume a lot of nutrients later. The principle of setting branches is to leave the bearing branches to develop branches, and the strong branches to weaken branches, not to leave, not to leave. Generally speaking, it is advisable to leave a new shoot every 5- 10 cm on the grape trellis, and 8-25 new shoots can be left every 2 meters on the trellis. For varieties (such as Kyoho) that are vigorous and easy to drop flowers and fruits, more new shoots can be left in the early stage to disperse nutrition and inhibit the excessive growth of new shoots. After fruit setting, you can sparse some branches that are too dense, which is beneficial to fruit setting. Second, new tip coring and secondary tip processing. Picking a new shoot means picking the tender part of the tip of the new shoot, temporarily stopping the competition between the new shoot and the ear for nutrients, so that nutrients can be supplied to the ear to prevent falling flowers. The coring of new shoots before flowering is generally carried out one week before flowering and at the beginning of flowering. The coring of main branches must be coordinated with the treatment of germinated auxiliary branches. The intensity of coring before flowering of new shoots mainly depends on the growth potential of new shoots. Generally speaking, it is advisable to leave 6-9 leaves in the top inflorescence for coring, 4-5 leaves in the middle and strong branches, 2-3 leaves in the weak branches, and 10- 15 leaves in the nutrient branches. Secondary branch treatment is to keep only 1-2 secondary branches on the bearing branches, and all the others are erased from the stems. There are only 3-4 leaves left on the remaining secondary branches, and the same is true for those that germinate later. Generally, 1-2 leaves are left on the auxiliary branches of young trees, vegetative branches or extended branches. If ventilation and light transmission are affected in summer and autumn, some auxiliary tips can be thinned appropriately. The young trees planted in that year can be separated from the secondary branches on the main vines by 20-30 cm, leaving strong new shoots as the bearing mother branches in the next year. When the remaining secondary branches grow to 10- 15 leaves, pick them to promote the good development of winter buds. Third, thinning inflorescences and pruning flower and fruit ears. Saving inflorescences refers to thinning out excessive inflorescences according to the requirements of tree growth, branch growth and yield. For general fresh food species, in principle, strong fruit branches can leave two inflorescences, middle branches leave one inflorescence, and weak branches leave no inflorescences. Pruning the ear is to remove a part of the inflorescence. The usual practice is to pinch off the top of inflorescence with a total length of 1/5- 1/4, and some have to remove the secondary ear. Ear pruning is to remove the undeveloped fruit grains and excessive fruit grains on the ear after the fruit is set, which can make the ear and fruit grains neat and uniform and keep the ear compact to a certain extent, which is very important for fresh grapes. Sparsing inflorescences and pruning spikes should be done about one week before flowering, and should be completed at flowering stage. Fourth, tie vines and remove whiskers. When the new shoots grow to more than 30 cm, the branches and vines should be tied and fixed in time to prevent the branches from being broken by the wind or rubbing the fruit surface. Binding should not be too tight or too loose, and attention should be paid to the angle and direction of plastic surgery. Tendrils on new buds should be removed in time. First, it can save nutrition and improve the fruit setting rate. The second is to prevent natural fixation from affecting the distribution of buds.