Peach trees are light-loving fruit trees with weak dryness. It has strong growth potential but short lifespan. It has strong germination and branching abilities and is prone to secondary or tertiary shoots. If pruned improperly, the results will be poor. Therefore, reshaping or pruning often adopts a happy tree shape without a central trunk.
1. Plastic pruning of peach saplings
When pruning saplings, you should make full use of their vigorous growth, strong germination and branch formation, and early-maturing buds on strong branches. It can form multiple secondary shoots and form flower buds early. On the one hand, it expands the crown of the tree, and on the other hand, it cultivates strong backbone branches.
① Fixed stem height. Generally, the height of fixed stem is 30-50_.
② Cultivate the main side branches. When the new shoots grow to 10 to 20_ after germination in spring, select 3 to 5 new shoots in the shaping band and thin out the rest.
③ When pruning the fruiting branch groups, it is better to leave more large branches in the middle and lower parts of the main branches, side branches and the inside of the crown, while it is better to leave more small branch groups in the medium-sized branch groups, the upper part and the periphery of the crown, resulting in large inside and small outside. , a layout with more at the bottom and less at the top. The distance between branch groups is about 1m for large branch groups in the same direction, about 60cm for medium-sized branch groups, and about 30mm for small branch groups.
④ When pruning fruiting branches, short pruning should be the main method for varieties with long fruiting branches. Varieties that produce mainly short fruit branches should be thinned and pruned.
2. Pruning during the fruiting period of peach trees
Mainly adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, keep the tree strong, cultivate and renew the fruiting branches, and remove excessively dense peripheral branches. branches to improve the illumination of the inner chamber and prevent the fruiting part from moving outward. The pruning method is to re-cut the middle and lower parts of the tree or the fruiting branch group, leaving 3 to 5 or 1 to 2 nodes depending on the strength of the branches to promote new shoots and form fruiting branches next year. The three-branch renewal pruning method is used.
① When a single branch is renewed and the tree is strong, leave 3 to 5 buds on the long and medium fruiting branches and cut them out, so that the first side will bear fruit and the first side will sprout branches. This will cause fewer flower buds or smaller fruit branches. Thin varieties can also be lightly pruned and left to grow.
②Double branch renewal, for two adjacent fruit branches, lightly prune the upper one to make it bear fruit, and cut the lower one with 2 to 3 buds and keep it as a preparation branch.
③Three branches are renewed, that is, the branches retract to bear fruit, the branches grow to promote the growth of most short fruit branches, and the branches leave 2 to 3 buds short as preparation branches to grow developing branches. When pruning in the following winter, cut off the branches that have already produced fruit, cut the long branches into short sections, and leave a few short fruiting branches to bear fruit. For the development branches that have grown out of the prepared branches, one should be kept long and the other should be cut back again.
3. Pruning of peach trees during the growing season
①Pruning the buds. After the buds sprout from late April to early May, select a strong shoot in the area where branches need to be left, and wipe off the remaining young shoots that are too dense.
②Thinning branches. From early May to early June, when the new shoots grow rapidly and reach about 30 mm, the quality and nature of the branches should be judged based on the growth potential, thickness, location, etc., and competing branches, thin branches, dense branches and drooping branches should be thinned out. Leggy branches and overly dense branches sprouting inside the crown should be thinned out.
③Topping. For the first time, from mid-May to early June, saplings are mainly topping the peripheral extension branches. For new shoots with a length of 35 to 45 mm, you can use auxiliary shoots with suitable directions and angles to extend the branches. Top topping or pruning, and the following secondary top topping is controlled. For the second time, from late June to early July, top off the vigorous shoots that have not stopped growing. The third time is from late August to early September. Remove the tender tips at the tips of the main and auxiliary shoots to increase nutrient accumulation and prepare for safe wintering.