1。 The first one is also called Fu Yuan. Meta-original meaning is both a head. The Canadian dollar is a crown gift. The headdresses of ancient nobles and civilians were very different. Nobles wear crowns, crowns and crowns, and civilians wear crowns (zé).
Crown: an ordinary hat worn by aristocratic men. The old man was crowned at the age of 20. The crown is the symbol of adults and the uniform of nobles. It is impolite to wear a crown instead of a crown. Some people even gave their lives to be polite. "Zuo Zhuan's fifteen years of mourning for the public" records the civil strife in the country, and the tassel used to tie the crown on Luz was cut off. He laid down his weapon, tied the tassel and said, "When a gentleman dies, the crown is inevitable." The result was hacked to death. The ancients also said that taking the crown meant that they were wrong, sympathized with criminals and belittled themselves. The crown is a must for nobles to wear when they grow up, so it has become synonymous with dignitaries. Li Bai's "Antique": "When Lu Yu fights cocks, he will be crowned." With the boy, the crown emphasizes adults. Advanced Analects of Confucius: "Five or six champions, six or seven boys." The word weak crown refers to just entering adulthood. The role of the crown is mainly tied by hair, and it is also a kind of decoration. There are silk ropes on both sides of the crown ring, which are used to tie a knot on the chin and fix the crown on the top of the head. These two silk ropes are tassels. Before wearing a crown, you should tie your hair in a bun, then wrap it in a bun (xǐ, or write a bun, which is a black silk), and then wear a crown. After wearing the crown, you should use a pin (jρ, called a pin in pre-Qin, called a pin after Han Dynasty) to pass through the crown ring and bun and then fix it. Women don't wear crowns, but only use clips or pins to fix their hair. Later, the fixed crown was called scale, and only the fixed hair was called bun. Du Fu's Spring Hope: "I stroke my white hair. It has become so thin that it can no longer hold hairpins. " One end of the hair is divided into two branches, shaped like a fork, called a hairpin. There were four kinds of people who didn't wear crowns in ancient times: children, civilians, criminals and foreigners.
Crown: Sacrificial clothing for emperors, princes and doctors. Shuowen: "Crown, the doctor is above the crown." After the Han Dynasty, only emperors could wear headdresses, and the word headdress was synonymous with the emperor. Wang Wei's "Daming Palace and Jia Zhi's Scheerer's Works": "There are nine doors in heaven to expose the palace and its courtyard, and many countries bow their pearls."
Ai: It can be divided into leather and knight system, and it is a noble hat worn by nobles. Pige is made of white deerskin and consists of several pieces. It looks like a melon skin hat now. Juege is a kind of red and black, named after its color is similar to the sparrow's head, and its shape is roughly similar to Pigge.
Zhou: War hats are worn on the crown. After Qin and Han Dynasties, it was called Dou, and later it was called Helmet. Du Fu's "Farewell to the Old": "People are beginners, but they are long-term officials." Xin Qiji's "Nanxiangzi": "I was young and I have been fighting in the southeast." Sun Quan commanded the army at a young age. In ancient times, it was disrespectful to wear a pocket to see your elders, just like wearing a crown. You should avoid seeing your elders.
Ai: It is worn by civilians, and there is a towel in their hair to cover their foreheads. According to the biography of Han Dong Fang Shuo, there was a princess whose lover's name was Dong Yan, who was introduced to Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty and wore a green coat. Yan Shigu Note: Green Ge, the clothes of a bitch are also. Dong Yan's clothes show that he is a slave. Later, in "Antique", Li Bai used the phrase "whose family is green, who sells pearls lightly" to describe people who get rich by hook or by crook and are arrogant.
Mototou: the hat of a layman, also known as Hatou, Hatou, Hatou, Hatou, Hatou, etc. Its shape is similar to the way that farmers in northern Shaanxi wrap their heads with sheep belly towels and tie knots on their heads and foreheads from back to front. Mo Shang Sang: "When a teenager sees Luo Fu, he takes off his hat and looks forward." The descendants of Mohou are called Fu Tou. Later, the hoe was tied into two feet at the back of the head and naturally drooped. Later, the front knot was cancelled, and the back foot was tied with wire and lined with sawdust, which was called a foot-paving hoe and was worn by civil servants. The feet at the back intersect at the back of the head, which is called cross feet and is worn by military attache. Wotou is generally made of blue-black yarn, so it is also called black yarn, and later generations are commonly known as black gauze cap.
Long hair, a crown and a scarf are normal costumes in the Central Plains, while long hair is normal in non-Central Plains. The Analects of Confucius: "I am a little ignorant, but I will leave it behind." "Biography of thirteen years of mourning for the public": "Wu, the country of the righteous emperor, is willing to get tattoos." Wuyue's concept of wishing to get a tattoo is different from the concept of "parents receiving hair" in the Central Plains.
2。 In a narrow sense, body clothes are tops, and tops are bottoms. "The Book of Songs is Unknown in the East": "The East is unknown, and the clothes are upside down."
Hey: Jacket. Peacock flies southeast: "I have an embroidered waist, which is as beautiful as a fairy, describing the beauty of embroidery."
You: Light-colored clothes.
Qi (QIA), Fu: Jacket. Flocculants can be added to the jacket. An orphan's journey: "No recovery in winter, no clothes in summer." The answer refers to cotton balls.
Dirty clothes, dirty clothes, indifferent clothes: clothes worn next to each other. Sima Xiangru's "Beauty Fu": "Women wear clothes and relax, revealing (revealing) their lewd clothes." The Book of Songs Without Clothes: "How can you say that you have no clothes, and you are just like your son?" Zheng Xuan's note: "Ze, obscene clothes, near pollution." Ze is equivalent to today's sweatshirt. Said: "I am eager to use the clothes in my room." Later, I also wrote Hanfu.
Qiu: Leather clothes, fur outward.
Robe: A long dress made of tangled or old silk and cotton. "The Book of Songs Without Clothes": "Without clothes and robes."
Jian: A long skirt made of new silk and cotton wool.
There are two kinds of collars in ancient coats: one is a cross collar, which is directly connected to the left and right lapels, and the lapels intersect at the chest, and the left lapel presses the right lapel and is tied under the right armpit. The other is a straight collar, which surrounds the chest from the back of the neck and hangs down in parallel.
Ryan: The skirt. Lapels should be covered on the right side, so "left-handed" is a different suit.
Ju: The hem at the back of the dress. You can hang to the ground when you are behind you. Cao Zhi's "Goddess Fu": "Practice the pen of traveling far away and drag the fog lightly."
Sleeve (xiù): Same sleeve. Also known as (mèi). Like curtains, curtains.
Remove: cuffs and sleeves.
Gentleman: In ancient times, the gown was tied with a tie, the belt was tied at the front of the abdomen, and the rest were gentry. "The Analects of Confucius Wei Linggong": "Zhang Zi asked' line'. Confucius said, "You must keep your word and honor your deeds ..." Zhang Zi wrote a book for all the nobles. "Gentlemen droop, can be mentioned as a record book for the time being. In ancient times, there was a word' gentry'. " "Fu" can also be written, meaning "insert", which means to insert (hü, hand board) in the belt, and make notes or finger paintings when the monarch and the minister meet, so it has become synonymous with senior officials.
Silk: A general term for silk fabrics.
Brown (hè): linen and wool. Cloth and brown are the same thing, the difference is that cloth is thin and brown. Literati often wear cloth when they are not officials, so cloth has become synonymous with literati not being officials. Du Fu's "Five Hundred Words from Beijing to Fengxian": "Ling Du has cloth clothes, and the boss is embarrassed." Cloth refers to Du Fu himself before he became an official.
Skirt: Skirt. Ancient men also wore skirts.
Li: Also write Li, pants. There were only two trouser legs trousers in ancient times, and there were no front and rear crotch. Wanku is worn by rich people, and Wanku is carefully woven raw silk. The origin of Wanku refers to those who have money but don't do their jobs. Du Fu's "Twenty-two Rhymes of Wei Zuocheng": "Never starve to death, Confucian crowns often make mistakes." Similar to today's pants, it was called poverty in ancient times. The popular name of the poor is K ū n. "The World Says Ren Xinyu was Born": "Liu Ling said: I take heaven and earth as my building and my house as my clothing. Why did you come to my arms? " There is also a kind called calf nose, which is the shorts and underwear of later generations. Biography of Historical Records of Sima Xiangru: "It is to make Wen Jun into a stove, just like in the city." It's like wearing a calf's nose in the market to show the ugliness of his father-in-law, Zhuo Wangsun.
Knee covering: clothing covering the thigh to the knee, also known as "clothing" and "clothing". Similar to today's apron
Evil amplitude: leggings.
women's clothes
The main forms of Hanfu are "upper garment and lower garment" (ancient upper garment refers to lower skirt), "deep garment" (sewing upper garment and lower garment together) and "short garment". Among them, the coronation under the coat is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; Robe clothes (deep clothes) are common clothes for officials and scholars, while skirts are popular among women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and pants.
The most popular women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties is skirt, which is the main dress style of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half-arm" handed down from the court has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and a small belt is tied on the chest. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. The half arm lasted for a long time, and then the man wore it. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle and had flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm, so it is called silk.
In the Ming dynasty, women used to wear a blouse or a cloud shoulder over their skirts. Bi Xia, Guan Feng, is the dress of women in Ming Dynasty, and it is also the dress used by empresses when they attend sacrificial ceremonies and other important ceremonies. The whole crown is decorated with dragons and phoenixes, which are worn with Xiaguan. Buttons were widely used in the Ming Dynasty, mainly used in dresses, but rarely used in uniforms, and became popular in the late Ming Dynasty.
The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets. A jacket is a coat added to a robe, named after it originated from riding a jacket. It is characterized by a slit at the front and back, and a blue chest (disc for the king of Prince Edward County). Buzi's bird and beast patterns and order are similar to those of the Ming Dynasty. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. As far as the influence is concerned, mandarin jackets of other colors have gradually become popular among officials and gentry, and become ordinary costumes. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk weaving, embroidery, printing and dyeing and various manual occupations created conditions for the richness of clothing varieties in the Qing Dynasty. The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them.