1. Key points for pruning saplings

The common tree shape of peach trees is a heart-shaped tree with three main branches. The height of the mature seedling is 60 to 70 centimeters, and the cutting edge is 20 to 20 centimeters. There should be more than 5 full buds at 30 cm for shaping. In the first year, three scattered main branches are selected, and no main branch should face due south. In the second year, select the first side branch on each main branch, and in the third year, select the second side branch. Every year, the main branches should be pruned to a length of 60 to 70 centimeters. In order to increase the level of branches, topping can be carried out twice during the growth period. During the growth period, use methods such as pulling branches to open the branches to control the growth and promote early fruiting. Four-year-old trees need to cultivate some fruiting branch groups and fruiting branches on the main and side branches. In order to grow trees quickly and bear fruit early, pruning of young trees in winter is mainly light pruning.

2. Key points for tree pruning during the early fruiting period

The early fruiting period is generally from the third to the sixth year after planting. The main task is to continue to cultivate the backbone branches, and at the same time focus on cultivating the fruiting branch group.

1. When pruning the main branch, choose the extension branch of the main branch. The extension branch of the main branch should be shortened. If there is a good outer auxiliary shoot at 50 to 60 cm of the extension branch, the part above the auxiliary shoot can be cut off to auxiliary shoot. Make an extension branch from the tip, and then cut off the auxiliary tip to leave 1/2. Cut off 20 to 30 cm of missing branches to cultivate better fruiting branch groups, and the remaining developing branches can be thinned out from the base.

2. Pruning of side branches: Cut off 1/2 of the selected extension branches, and remove competing branches to control their growth. The branches of the upper extension branches of the side branches cannot be higher or longer than the branches of the extension branches of the main branch, and always remain subordinate. relation.

3. Cultivation of fruiting branch groups Large-scale fruiting branch groups mostly use vigorously growing branches. After short pruning and thinning, they can be formed in 3 to 4 years. Use generally strong branches to cut short, and then 2 to 4 fruiting branches will form to form a small fruiting branch group. Large, medium and small fruiting branch groups should have branch extension branches, and constantly change the extension direction, so that the branch group curves and grows upward, suppressing the strength at the top and weakness at the bottom, and preventing the branch axis from being too long and the lower part being bare.

4． Pruning of fruiting branches generally leaves 8 to 10 flower buds on long fruit branches, 6 to 8 flower buds on medium fruit branches, 3 to 4 short fruit branches on short fruit branches, and only sparses but no cuts on bouquet-shaped fruit branches.

3. Key points for pruning trees during the fruiting period

1. Pruning of the main branches. The extended branches in the early stage of fruiting should be led by strong branches, and the length should be about 30 cm. And use the opening angle of the auxiliary shoots to slow down the tree. In the later stage of fruiting, choose branches with small angles and strong growth potential to raise the angle, or retract the branches.

2. The lower part of the side branches will be thinned out or retracted into large branch groups after pruning. For the outer branches that have room to grow, use strong branches to take the lead. At this stage, it is still necessary to adjust the master-slave relationship between the main and side branches. When pruning in summer, attention should be paid to controlling vigorous branches, thinning out dense branches, and improving ventilation and light transmission conditions.

3. The pruning of the resultant branch groups can adjust the density between the branch groups by thinning and retracting the branches, making them change from dense to thin, from weak to strong, and renew and rotate. Maintain good lighting. The general requirement is to "grow staggeredly on both sides, arrange it evenly without shading, arrange the angles and directions, and clearly distinguish the subordinate relationships."

4． Fruiting branches should be pruned according to the fruiting habits of the variety. For varieties with large fruit but deep stems and pollen-free varieties, such as Zaofengwang, medium and short fruit branches are best, so when pruning in winter, light pruning is the main method, and the branches on the back are thinned out first. Upright branches and branches that are too dense should be pruned again after fruit setting according to the fruit setting situation and the density of the branches. For long branches, it can also promote the growth of some medium and short fruiting branches, which are the main fruiting branches next year. During summer pruning, encourage the growth of short branches by pruning multiple times. When the tree begins to weaken, retract it in time to promote strong branches and restore the tree's vigor. For varieties with pollen and medium or long fruiting branches with high fruit setting rate, they can be shortened according to the length and thickness of the fruiting branches. Generally, long fruit branches should be cut to 20 to 30 centimeters, medium fruit branches to 10 to 20 centimeters. Flower buds with lower starting nodes should be kept shorter, and vice versa.

To adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, sufficient reserve branches should be left through single branch renewal and double branch renewal. Single branch regeneration and double branch regeneration should be applied simultaneously on the same plant. Generally speaking, single-branch regeneration should be used more often on young trees, while double-branch regeneration should be used on weaker trees.

Single branch renewal: The fruit-bearing branches should be lightly pruned and allowed to grow. After the tips bear fruit, the branches will droop, the buds at the base will be raised and new branches will sprout. In the second year, prune back to new branches. This method is suitable for use when the flower buds have high insertion nodes or there are no prepared branches at the rear.

Double branch renewal: On the biennial branch group, select the upper and lower branches, leaving 7 to 8 flower buds on the upper long fruiting branch for fruiting; only 3 to 4 buds at the base of the lower branch are left Cut short to produce strong fruiting branches. When pruning in the second year, cut off the upper branches that have already produced fruit, leaving two strong lower branches, and then prune according to the above method.