The ancients in China were bound by strict laws and regulations, and their manners were varied. They only wear clothes and hats, while China people used to judge people by their clothes and hats. Dress is often not only a person's personal code, but also his social code.

Today, the most direct contact with modern people's ancient costumes with colorful flags can only be through operas, cartoons and historical film and television dramas. The ancients we saw from there were all robes, wide robes and high boots, plus exaggerated headdresses or hats, which seemed verbose and cumbersome.

Confucian drudgery in long clothes

It is said that since the Yellow Emperor, Han people can use cloth and silk, and they have already learned to weave. However, cloth is regarded as the most precious thing, and it is impossible for ordinary people to decorate their bodies with cloth. Huang Di, who was in a high position, paid great attention to etiquette, and he was the first to advocate it, which led to the appearance of "wide sleeves hanging elegant". Perhaps it was this word "polite" that evolved into the later idiom "polite". Huangdi is probably the earliest fashion designer and model in China, and he has the effect of accommodating all kinds of people. This trend began with him, and gradually took off his coat and robe and became fashionable. Today, in Chinese, generosity is a compliment, which is contrary to the word "small", showing the long tradition of generosity. At the beginning, Ping Yuanjun saw Confucius's "long clothes vibrating sleeves" and immediately asked: "Do you also wear Confucian clothes?" It can be seen that the earliest Confucian robes are long clothes that mop the floor. From now on, pushing history a hundred years away, all those who dress up as steel heads can only be the coolies at the bottom.

I will die in purple.

Purple is the king's costume. In terms of color, the ancients thought that purple robe was the most respected. In Zuo Zhuan, it is recorded that someone wore a fox, fur and purple dress and went out to dinner. Carelessly, the robe was not closed tightly, revealing the purple clothes inside. The crown prince present drove him away on the spot. A few days later, he listed three charges and killed the man. Everything from cotton to cloth is pure white. Colored clothes need more dyeing processes. In the early 1980s, I once saw two girls who were completely black and purple below their wrists in Yao areas of Guangxi. By the way, they just finished dyeing the cloth. In ancient times, civilians could only wear white. In a rough white cloth, a colorful man appeared, and his identity and property were immediately clear at a glance. In Zhou Li, the color of clothes represents the status of nobility. Even the color of a person's clothes and whether his parents are alive or dead have clear rules. It can be seen that a robe is enough to expose all his private information.

Men with full feet have extra pants?

There was a thief's son in the state of Qi, and a son was punished by gouging out his foot. The two of them are idle, boasting and making fun of each other. The thief's son said, my father is a cow, and he is wearing a leather robe with a tail! The criminal's son said: My father is better. He wears pants in winter! Maybe the state of Qi is fake, and the fur robe should have a tail to prove it, but it is a luxury for the person who is punished to lose his feet and wear pants in winter. For a long time after surpassing the original function of avoiding the cold, clothing more reflects people's "redundant" needs.

When the ancients met important people and distinguished guests, they often hurriedly "led them away and removed them" and "sat in danger without chaos". Straighten the collar, pull up the two sleeves, align them, straighten the skirt, and then sit up to show solemnity. The ancients called this "vibrating clothes". Watching Japanese women wear kimonos is quite time-consuming and laborious, and it is extremely cumbersome. They say that's Tang's style. If you just visit and reproduce the life of the Tang Dynasty, I'm afraid it's very similar to breaking into the stage and straying into a play.

Only those who have been working while the iron is hot for generations and herding cattle at ease can get close to our life today. Unfortunately, history is never a bunt. The protagonists in history are women dancing in robes and eunuchs with high status in Take Off Your Coat.

In ancient times, people of different classes had different costumes, and people used the names of different costumes as pronouns of people of different classes.

Their work: Since Liu and Song Dynasties in the Southern Dynasties, their work has been widely circulated among the people, regardless of the government and the people, regardless of the rich and the poor. In the early Ming Dynasty, their jobs became official hats. History of the Ming Dynasty: "Hongwu has decided for three years, and those who always look at things will take their posts, league leaders and belts as their official uniforms." Although the black hat worn by officials was changed into a red tassel hat in the Qing Dynasty, people are still used to using it as a synonym for officials.

Sha Ying: Sha Ying and Sha Ying were the highest ranking officials in ancient times. Du Fu's Eight Sad Poems of Zuo Servant Shooting Zheng Guogong and Yan: "I am ashamed of being idle." The old man thinks he is an official. Such as: aristocratic families (the home of generations of senior officials).

Squire: Also known as "squire" and "recommending squire", squire is inserted, and squire is big. In the past, the clothes of senior officials were also used as representatives of bureaucrats. "Yu Jin Fu" notes: "Those who flatter the gentry are humble to the gentry."

Huang Shang: Yellow means dignity, and wearing Huang Shang means that the minister is in a distinguished position, so Huang Shang has become another name for the prince who is about to become a monarch. Lu Zhong He Le Ge Chu Gong: "Huang Shang Yuanji, the country is peaceful."

Beaded shoes: shoes decorated with pearls. Historical Records Biography of Shen Jun in Spring: "In spring, more than 3,000 guests of Shen Jun stood on tiptoe." Therefore, beaded shoes have become synonymous with wealthy guests. Li Bai's poem "Send Wei Nanling Ice" reads: "There are three thousand pearls in the class and a hundred in Jin Quan."

Wan Kun: Also known as "Wan Kun". The thin silk trousers that your children wore in ancient times were extended to be called rich children. Du Fu's "Twenty-two Rhymes of Wei Zuocheng": "Wan Kun doesn't starve to death, and Confucian crowns often make mistakes."

Green fern: Also called "green front". Poetry Zheng Feng Ji Zi: Qingqing Ji Zi. Mao Chuan: "Young people, green collars, serve students." Old cause refers to a scholar. Du Fu's poem "The new school in Hengshan County is a land massacre": "The golden armor is swaying and the youth is haggard." During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the imperial examination era specifically referred to scholars.

B: That is, civilians. "On Salt and Iron, Dispelling Deficiency" said that ancient people could only wear linen when they were eighty or ninety years old. These ordinary people are called "cloth clothes". Biography of Li Si in Historical Records: "Fu Si was the leader of Shangcai Buyi and Luxiang."

Tsing Yi: Clothes worn by people with low status in ancient times. Maids also wore tsing yi, which was later used as a substitute for maids. Bai Juyi's poem "Laziness": "Tsing Yi reported Pingdan and told me to wash my comb."

Women: headscarves and hair ornaments of ancient women. "The Book of Jin Xuandi Ji": "Liang (Zhuge Liang) challenged the emperor (referring to Sima Yi) because he left the emperor as a woman." Later as a synonym for women. Such as: the heroine.

Skirt hairpin: Ancient women's dress, because it is body double as a woman. The first time in A Dream of Red Mansions: "I have eyebrows, and I really don't want to be caught by skirts."

In addition, "Mayi" is also used as a synonym for trying to give examples. "Gentry" is a general term for local gentlemen and scholars, and "Brown" is a synonym for the poor. Soldiers are commensurate with "the same robe" and take "the friendship of the same robe" as the name of mutual friendship, and so on.