Cloud shoulders are often decorated with four moire patterns, mostly made of colorful brocade. Leaves reflect the sun like clouds after rain, and rainbows are scattered in the clear sky, so it is called cloud shoulder. Yun Jian is a unique costume style in the costume culture of Han nationality, which is rich in decorative patterns, artistic symbolic language, figurative meaning of numbers and profound cultural connotations. Yun Jian is also the crystallization of the Han nationality's absorption of foreign costume culture, which is integrated and sublimated into its own national costume; Yunjian is also a model of ingenious design of plane and three-dimensional design in the history of China clothing. Cloud shoulders, also called shawls, are mostly made of satin and brocade. Most cloud shoulders are composed of four kinds of moire patterns, which are called four-in-one wishful pattern, willow pattern and lotus pattern. There are auspicious propositions such as rich peony, long life, and more than one year. It was very popular in Ming and Qing dynasties, and it was mostly used in wedding banquets and other occasions.
Yunjian is a kind of clothing developed from the Sui Dynasty (58 1-6 18). It surrounds the neck and is worn on the shoulders. By the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Yun Jian had spread to all social strata, especially when getting married, and became an indispensable costume for young women. Later, when I was 20 years old or married, I wore cloud shoulders. The shape of the cloud shoulder is mostly "four in one" shape, and there are also strips. The production of cloud shoulders is generally made into two layers of eight hanging clouds, and each cloud is embroidered with flowers, birds, grass and insects, or embroidered with operas and stories. It takes a long time to embroider a beautiful cloud shoulder, and the exquisite craftsmanship is amazing. There are various stitches in Yun Jian embroidery, such as arm pulling, needle connecting, needle roller, pine needle, sewing thread, punching, gold winding, needle grabbing, Qi Zhen and so on, and there are many styles. The cloud shoulder in the picture comes from Henan Province in central China. It is embroidered with figures, flowers and birds, small bridges and flowing water. Fine stitches, rich colors and beautiful curves are a fine piece of folk art.
Cultural creativity of "harmony between man and nature"
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There is no record of the formation history of Yun Jian in the literature before Qin and Han Dynasties. Judging from the clothing style, it should be influenced by the concept of nomadic people in the north, and it is a foreign clothing style. Its image data were first seen in Dunhuang frescoes in Sui Dynasty, and Guanyin Bodhisattva, who had been transformed in China, wore cloud shoulders. Yun Jian is very popular among the Han people. At the latest in the Tang and Song Dynasties, the "Five Clouds of Autumn" costume was popular in the upper aristocratic society, and Yun Jian dressed it like this. Yun Shoulder, although draped over the shoulders of foreign bodhisattvas in Sui and Tang Dynasties, is closely related to the Taoist thought of local culture. Although it comes from foreign national costume culture, it is turned into its own use because of its worship of heaven, and it has become an ethereal and magnificent national costume culture model of "harmony between man and nature"
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Cloud Shoulder, the cultural creativity of "harmony between man and nature", comes from the way of thinking of oriental culture represented by China. It is comprehensive and pays attention to the mutual tolerance and harmony between all things. China, since ancient times, has been an early nation in the world that founded its country by agriculture, which is a great discovery of mankind. After agricultural settlement, people pay attention to the comprehensive relationship between the climate change in the sky and people's living environment, which is reflected in the philosophy representing social consciousness. In modern language, that is, as early as two or three thousand years ago, during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the ancients in China had attached importance to "Taoism and Nature" and the harmonious relationship between man and nature. This is also the value of Yun Jian's cultural creativity of "harmony between man and nature" in China clothing culture.
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The conception of "Cloud Shoulder" is consistent with the artistic conception of China architecture, with aesthetic interest and pulse. For example, the ancient court buildings in China paid attention to the combination of four directions and four directions, and it was not until the Ming and Qing Dynasties that the Temple of Heaven with religious worship was built, which typically symbolized the landscaping concept of China's "land with a round sky": the umbrella dome of the Hall of Praying for the Year symbolizes the sky, and the square worships the sky and worships the Taiwan elephant for land acquisition; With the Temple of Heaven as the center and towering cypresses around it, people's sight and the noise of the world of mortals are blocked. Although the height of the Temple of Heaven is not too high, looking up at the sky gives people a feeling of being in the sky, which makes people wake up. China's thinking in images is exquisite. Look again, the overall shape of China's dress cloud shoulder is opened. From the plane, it is inside the outer circle, which symbolizes the circle; Three-dimensionally, wearing on people's bodies, the flowers and fruits of the four seasons embroidered on the shoulders of clouds are hung with long green spikes, just like the forest of nature, which covers the main body of people and gives people a feeling. Like the architecture of the Temple of Heaven, it also has the profound connotation of "harmony between man and nature". The imagery thinking in the East is compared with the figurative thinking in the West-straightforward creativity: the worship buildings connecting man and heaven in the West, the towering church spires, and the fashion design of western clothes show the relationship between man and nature, and directly decorate people's hats with figurative fruits and vegetables; The Cultural Connotation of China's Costume Yun Jian's thought of "harmony between man and nature" is more poetic, all-encompassing, profound and intriguing than western costumes.
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The meaning of symbols and numbers.
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The big structure of the cloud shoulder is basically an abstraction of sun worship. Such as "X" radial shape, or rotating radial shape, or "M" shape symbolizing eight seasons, or the number of "Oracle Bone Inscriptions" amulet as the skeleton.
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The pattern of the cloud shoulder is completely composed of artistic symbols and numbers. Although the pattern has the function of amulet, it is different from the Taoist "symbol" of exorcising ghosts and calling gods, and it is not the legacy of the "tiger symbol" of dispatching troops. Every cloud shoulder has its own theme, which is inseparable from people's good wishes for love and marriage. Because of the rich content of the cloud shoulder pattern, to understand the meaning of the cloud shoulder pattern, we must analyze and appreciate the typical legends.
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First of all, it is necessary to analyze and understand the meaning of artistic symbols commonly used on the cloud shoulder; Just as Yun Jian has been popular for 65,438+0,500 years, artistic language must be symbolized, standardized and stylized, so as to contain everything between scales and aesthetic philosophy. For example, the cloud hook pattern is often combined with the wishful head. According to our research, Ruyi is the reproductive worship of dragon and snake totem, and snakes and eggs are abstract. In the Han Dynasty stone reliefs, we can also see the transformation from the figurative pattern of "the snake pierces the ideal" to the abstract pattern, which has the same connotation as the ancient "the arrow pierces the colored ball". Another example is a bird with flowers, a phoenix with peony iris symbolizing sexual love, and an artistic symbol symbolizing the homophonic sound of Fu (bat), Lu (deer), Shou (peach, crane, turtle pattern) and Fu Shou (plant bergamot); A cornucopia symbolizing wealth, a golden toad playing with bangs, etc. People in China take people as the main image in their expression techniques, and like to show a happy result by using melon seeds of spring flowers and autumn fruits. ?
For example, the Shandong folk "Four in One" cloud shoulder pattern, in terms of content and artistic composition, adopts a shape in a large structure, and the central part is Mi Zige style. The artistic symbol is hidden in the wishful pattern of the cloud hook, embroidered with potted flowers of four seasons or flowers with broken branches, which symbolizes the prosperity of nature and families in four seasons; Mi Zige's cloud hook has obvious symbols of male root reproductive worship, which are symmetrical and consistent with the wishes of four directions. Putting the pedicels of spring flowers and autumn fruits in the four directions of the shape releases a variety of wishful patterns from reproductive reproduction; It goes without saying that folk artists are good at using artistic symbols.
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For example, the cloud shoulder pattern of "More Happiness and Longevity" in Henan Province uses 10 digits 10 receptacles and 10 bats in a radial arrangement to support peaches that look like flowers instead of flowers. The design is simple and clear, and the metaphor is clear, which is the perfection of wishing the new couple a "happier and longer life". This cloud shoulder can also be used as a birthday dress for the elderly.
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For example, Shanxi folk willow-like rotating radial cloud shoulders are polished with the famous embroidery technique of "Sanqing Embroidery" on the cloud hook with red background. When viewed in the sun, the combination of red and blue often appears purple and bright, symbolizing good luck. This cloud shoulder is also particular about the use of numbers. There are exactly 27 pieces of willow leaves in the inner ring and 27 pieces of cloud hooks in the outer ring (this thing has lost one piece of willow leaves at the button and the third cloud hook on the left shoulder because of the relics of the Qing Dynasty), that is, it is divided into three parts inside and outside, three parts in nine parts and one ***54 pieces. The traditional concept of China people has always regarded nine as a lucky number, preferring willow leaves to be green in spring, which means millions. Therefore, The Name of Yun Jian is a typical work with artistic symbols and images.
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For example, Yun Jian, the "Fuqing Yiru" in Henan Province, may be a relic of a scholar-bureaucrat family in the Qing Dynasty, because the artistic symbols used by Yun Jian include the ancient musical instrument of China-green and green homophonic. Generally speaking, rural farmers don't know what Qing is, and symbols are obvious artistic language. First, people should have this accomplishment when they wear it. In the composition art of Fuqing Ruyi, although the bat has a pattern, its structure is radial, with wishful heads, directly inserted into the flower-shaped pattern and closely connected with the bat, with a gap in the chin. In each embroidery, in addition to the flowers and butterflies with broken branches, the red-crowned crane symbolizing longevity and the golden toad symbolizing auspicious bangs are specially embroidered. From the use of graphics, we pay attention to the sum of the number of embroidery pieces, including: 28 pieces of bat deformation, 24 pieces of chime, and 4 pieces of Ruyitou/kloc-0. The sum of the three groups is equal to 66 pieces, and the total number of splicing symbolizes Datong.
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Typical three-dimensional cutting in China's clothing
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China's T-shirt has always been cut flat; Only cloud shoulders are suitable for people, and people have different sizes. When making clothes, you must cut them three-dimensionally. In order to break the graphic design of Chinese T-shaped clothing and avoid the stiff situation that it doesn't fit closely, designers use clever hollowing-out techniques to decompose the artistic symbols on the shoulders of clouds, and set patterns according to people's bodies in a three-dimensional way, which is the three-dimensional design of Chinese clothing.
Yun Jian, in the color design of clothing, basically takes five colors as the positive color, with intermediate colors dotted in the middle; Cloud shoulders are not worn in isolation, but clothes worn on people in a three-dimensional way, which need to be watched as a whole; Palace and folk are different in jewelry. After the Sui and Tang Dynasties, aristocratic women in the court often used gold jewelry as a phoenix crown, and the hairpin was a symbol of married women. The royal women wore T-shaped Huang Yun white dresses, which set off the elegance and harmony of colorful clouds and robes and strengthened the sense of sacredness. However, the dresses and jewelry of newly married women of Han nationality are generally red velvet flowers, hairpins, crowns and silver. The overall color is red, and the green tassels hanging around the cloud shoulders form a strong contrast with the pomegranate skirt under the skirt. Although folk colors are not as gorgeous and luxurious as royal colors, they are thriving and full of vitality.
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Yun Jian clothing is an art of walking. People often decorate Yun Jian with silver bells. When the bride walks, the silver bell flutters, making the bell ring rhythmically, which not only has a flowing sense of music, but also can improve people's spirit. The macro-cloud shoulder, which contains all things and has multiple meanings, is as vivid as a poem, a cloud and a rainbow. It not only satisfies people's pleasure of enjoying beauty visually, but also arouses their enthusiasm. Especially for the newcomers wearing cloud shoulders, they are full of love at the wedding ceremony of getting married and starting a new life, just as the clouds disperse and the sun rises.