Ming dynasty women's dress
Green and cyan are the main conventions, and various intermediate colors such as purple, black purple, scallion, silver gray and agarwood are also commonly used. The color tone is elegant and quiet, and the relatively advanced neutral gray tone is reasonably used. Clothing patterns have also been changed from more regular Tang dynasty patterns to sketches, which are more lively and natural.
Ordinary women, especially professional women or servants, still wear narrow-sleeved shirts. Only thinner and longer than those in the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the color is mainly white, and the others are light crimson and light blue. Tight pants are also short, and blue and white are the most common colors.
Generally speaking, women's clothing in the Song Dynasty was narrow, thin, long and strange, except for the long sleeves and fat skirts that were popular in the Northern Song Dynasty.
Shirt is one of the most common clothes, and most of the shirts of women in Song Dynasty are decorated with embroidery. Most of them are round neck, horizontal collar, straight collar and double-breasted with thin waist, many hems and long openings. Generally, the materials are thin and soft materials such as yarn, twill and silk.
Tui and coat are similar clothes. Tui is short in appearance, generally with open waist, double-breasted hem, long sleeves and narrow body. There are single pairs, single pairs of similar shirts and coats. Usually, the clothes of aristocratic women are mainly purple and yellow, with embroidery and embroidery. Ordinary women are mostly green, white and brown, and elderly women also like to wear purple clothes.
A coat is mostly a winter coat with an inner lining or cotton pad, which can be used instead of an outer robe. In the Song Dynasty, the wearing of robes was restricted, and most other folk women were not allowed to wear them except maids. After that, it was stipulated that the robe color of the servant girl should be purple above grade three, embroidered with crane grass, yellow below grade three, and not embroidered. You can choose according to your own preferences.
Narrow-sleeved clothes are a kind of casual clothes popular among women in Song Dynasty. The style is double-breasted, crossed collar, narrow sleeves and knee-length clothes. It is characterized by being very thin and narrow, even close to the body. Because this kind of dress is different from the previous generation, the influence of Scheeren and Yuan Dynasty can still be seen in the early Ming Dynasty. The left hand and narrow sleeve robes can still be seen. Generally, narrow-sleeved shirts, suspenders and long skirts are all women's fashions. Women's skirts in Ming Dynasty changed a lot, and they were popular clothes. In the Ming Dynasty, aristocratic women used Zhen Hong, crow green and yellow, while ordinary women could only use purple green, pink and light color.
Beizi is one of the costumes of aristocratic women in Ming Dynasty, also known as "cloak", which is similar to Beizi and vest of the previous generation. Generally worn in autumn and winter, women generally wear it as a gift. The style is big sleeves and wide body. Musicians can wear black.
Gabby was originally a clothing style in the Yuan Dynasty, but it was especially popular with women in the north. As a daily dress, there are lapel, stand-up collar or stand-up collar, sleeveless or short sleeves, which are as long as arms or knees, and some are longer, less than one foot from the ground. Since the Yuan Dynasty, Gabby has also started to use buttons, which is more convenient and faster to wear. Except Gaby, old women are afraid of wearing cotton in the cold, and Gaby generally doesn't wear it.
The long coat and collar are fastened with metal buttons, and the narrow sleeves, collar and hem are predestined friends. Unlike coats before the Ming dynasty, they generally reach the knees, so they are called "long coats"; Purple and green are commonly used in clothing colors; The material of the coat is generally satin, satin, and the pattern on the coat is similar to a large sleeve shirt, which is usually embroidered.
In the Ming Dynasty, due to the prevalence of foot binding among women and the pursuit of "walking without showing your feet", aristocratic women all wore long skirts to cover the feet of Jinlian. The skirt is embroidered with winding branches, or embroidered with lace an inch or two below the skirt as a presser foot. At first, six skirts were used, which was also a ritual in ancient times. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the so-called "skirts dragging six Xiangjiang rivers" had become eight.
Women in the Ming Dynasty also had a kind of underwear called "waist-girding". It is a kind of dress that surrounds a woman's chest, exposing her shoulders, arms and the upper part of her chest. It is different from the Chinese corset. It is made of wide tulle, some buttons and embroidery. The most remarkable thing about women's wear in Qing Dynasty is the function of buttons. In the past, buttons were mainly used in dresses, but in the Qing Dynasty, buttons became an indispensable part of all kinds of clothes. Buttons were originally just decorated on the collar, which changed the collar of the collar and the collar of the plate from the ancient straight collar to the high collar. It turns out that the neck is always exposed, and with the button, it can be avoided. [ 1]?
Ching Dynasty
Han women generally wear narrow-sleeved tops, shirts, vests, skirts and trousers.
Cheongsam is a very popular robe among Manchu women, and later became one of the main clothes of Han women. The cheongsam worn by Manchu in Qing Dynasty was very different from the dress later called cheongsam, but later cheongsam was developed on the basis of Manchu robes. Qipao, which is extremely wide at first, has a tubular waist, and then gradually becomes smaller. Round neck, right collar, high collar or low collar, the high collar can reach about two and a half inches in the late Qing Dynasty. Cheongsam is divided into single, clip, cotton and leather, all of which are distinguished according to the changes of seasons. Robes are generally light in color. When Manchu women wear cheongsam, most of them like to cover it with vests.
Most of the costumes of Han women in Qing Dynasty followed the Ming Dynasty. Usually I put on a coat, shirt and skirt, and then I don't wear a skirt, but wear pants instead.
Coat shirts are mostly round neck, right lap, big lap, double lap, pipa lap, big sleeves and exquisite tailoring. Coat materials are mostly cotton, satin, yarn, silk and so on. And there are batik prints. Colors are sky blue, lake blue, pink, white and red. Fur such as mink and fox skin is also used in winter. The wrapping is also extremely complicated and exquisite. At that time, there was a saying of "eighteen embedments".
Generally, a good skirt has many styles. For example, the women's "white pleated skirt" in Suzhou has hundreds of "horse-face skirts" with similar knees and left and right pleats, which are also called "Yuet dress". Because every pleat of the skirt is covered with five colors, it is named Mingyue. There is also a kind of "playing with ink skirt", which plays with ink on the skirt mouth, elegant and chic, like an ink painting, rendering various changes; In addition, there are phoenix-tailed skirts, fish-scale pleated skirts, foreign-printed skirts, golden-mud butterfly skirts, embroidered phoenix skirts, full-flowered skirts, a jade skirt, a devil railing skirt, a rolled skirt with ornaments, and a jingling skirt, each with its own characteristics, which only highlights the slender women.
In the Qing dynasty, underage women all wore pants. Pants with high waist, folded crotch and long feet are not as fat as men's pants. When you wear it, tie the waist with a long belt and use the rest as decoration. Women's trousers are richer in colors and patterns than men's trousers, so you can choose according to your own preferences. In addition, women's trousers have a * * * similarity, that is, there are all kinds of frills on the trouser legs. In Guangxu, there were several layers of edges on trousers. The first layer was the widest, and the second and third layers were narrow. It's time to go to Xuan Tong. The trouser legs are thinner and narrower, and the hem is less than before.
the Tang Dynasty
Women's wear, mostly narrow sleeves on the top, long skirts on the bottom, belts around the waist and long scarves on the shoulders. Narrow sleeve length and wrist. This is a coat as short as waist in Tang Dynasty.
In North Korean murals, women wear narrow-sleeved shirts. Long silk and long skirt. This kind of dress with a short coat and a long skirt can show a sense of rhythm and physical beauty, showing the generous charm of women in the Tang Dynasty.
There was also a fashion of shirtless women with big sleeves in the Tang Dynasty. Clothing for aristocratic women to walk in the courtyard, enjoy flowers, catch butterflies and play with dogs. In order to expose the upper part of the chest, big sleeves, double-breasted dresses, long skirts and shoulders are all covered with silk and decorated with weaving and embroidery. The waist of the skirt is high on the chest with a big belt, which boldly exaggerates the legs of women, much like the skirt worn by Korean women, with short upper part and long lower part. Most fabrics are leno products. The so-called "seeing the skin again" is another major feature of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty. Covering the body only with a veil is closely related to the open mind at that time.
Women in the Song Dynasty also wore tulle and sweaters, but the transparency of their wearing methods and materials could not be compared with that of the Tang Dynasty. Women's skirts in Sui and Tang Dynasties are waist-high. Departments, amateurs, exposure? The skirt is long enough to mop the floor, and the shape is slim and beautiful. From the murals in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, we can see the graceful images of women wearing shirts and long skirts in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. The most popular colors of skirts are scarlet, purple, yellow and cyan. Yang Guifei, a member of Tang Xianzong, likes to wear a yellow skirt. This skirt is dyed with tulip grass, the color is like a flower, especially bright, not afraid of the sun, but also exudes a fragrance. This kind of yellow skirt is becoming more and more popular in the princess's prince's home and Guan Ren's home. Li Shangyin, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, said in his poem: "Bend your waist and dance more to save gold." This illustrates this point. Women's clothing in Song Dynasty is more complicated. This is also the essence of clothing development from ancient times to the present. At that time, many costumes were unique and varied, showing the grand occasion of a hundred schools of thought contending. Later, the government had to order that women's clothes should obey their husbands' clothes, and women in ordinary families were not allowed to wear colorful clothes made of silk. But people didn't abide by this rule at that time, and the atmosphere of fashion and prosperity increased. At that time, there was a preference for "exotic clothes" and foreign clothes were adopted. Later, the emperor ordered everyone who wore Qidan costumes to be beheaded, but the fashion at that time was unprecedented.
Distinctive national characteristics
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Li women living in Hainan Island in the south of the motherland have already mastered superb textile skills. For a long time, they sewed homemade homespun and made all kinds of women's tops. There are five branches of Li nationality. Each branch is marked by different embroidery parts of clothes. There are many patterns embroidered with colored cotton thread on the edge of the Li women's coat and the front and back of the body. The front left part of the costume is a wedding scene, the right part is a farm music scene, the left part on the back of the costume is a prosperous scene of hundreds of animals, and the right part is a celebration in Harvest figure. The left and right sides are embroidered with a deformed word, one red and one white, which set each other off. The lower part of the back of the garment is a geometric figure. All the patterns are simple and unique.
On the banks of Lancang River and Nujiang River, women of Yi, Nu and Insect ethnic groups all use linen to make clothes. Although flax is thick, its fiber is long, tough and breathable, and it is still a good clothing material. The short coats of Yi women are mostly sewn with natural linen. They are light, elegant and unpretentious.
The tops of Yi women in Lijiang are right-handed, with stripes of seven colors, such as red, blue and white. There are three blue and two red stripes on the collar and skirt and cuffs. Three thin horizontal stripes are embroidered on the hem of the back piece. This naive linen dress naturally adds a bit of femininity.
Yi women in Liangshan area of Sichuan like to wear red and white belts. It is not only rich and colorful, but also contains profound cultural connotations. The legend of the origin of the belt is sung among the people: in ancient times, the daughter of God fell in love with a hardworking and brave young man on the earth. She came into this world in fox fur. After a period of twists and turns, she finally married the young man, had children and lived a happy life, but she wore a fox skin and nothing changed.
Later, she looked for opportunities to go out and find clothes to wear. The young man came back from work, didn't see his wife, and called everywhere. It rained cats and dogs, and he climbed mountains and mountains with an umbrella, and finally found his wife in a cave. After listening to his wife's story, the young man was very moved. But what about the clothes on the barren hills and slopes? Raindrops hit the umbrella. He had a brainwave, turned into the hole and tore off the umbrella bone.
Said to his wife, "What a nice skirt!" "My wife played an umbrella. Very beautiful. But without a belt, she can only walk around her waist with a skirt. After the rain stopped, the rainbow hung in the sky. It turned out that their sincere feelings touched the gods, so they threw a fairy rope into the world and turned it into a rainbow. The fairy reached out and cut out a rainbow in the air to make a belt, which showed her graceful figure. It is said that you women wear red and white belts now, which also means that some of them are in the world and some are still hanging in the sky.