1) Sacrificial clothing
Sacrificial clothing mainly includes big autumn face, Zhou face, Lu face, cloud face, Xuan face, etc. Its shape is generally inherited from the Tang Dynasty with reference to the Han and Wei Dynasties, and has changed slightly since the Southern Song Dynasty.
2) Royal clothes
Huangfu basically followed the old system of Han and Tang Dynasties.
Since the Song Dynasty, when officials wear official uniforms, they must put an ornament under the upper ring at the neckline of official uniforms, which is called "square-heart bent collar". The square curved collar is a round neck made of white Luo, and a square ornament is attached to the collar below to flatten the collar. This kind of collar originated from the ancient system of Han Dynasty and was used from Song Dynasty to Ming Dynasty.
Usually, officials should wear scarlet robes or skirts, lined with white trousers, with a big belt around their waist and knees, white stockings and black shoes on their feet.
Every official above Grade 6 wears a gold or silver fish bag around his waist to distinguish grades, and also hangs a jade sword and Yu Pei as decorations. In addition, there is a brocade ribbon hanging around the waist, and different patterns are used to distinguish official products. An official's belt marks his position.
The emperor and the crown prince used jade belts and big ornaments. Yellow is still the only color for emperors.
Ministers wear gold belts, and senior attendants and middle-level officials can also wear gold belts. When wearing the imperial robe, wear the crown of ignaz kogler, the crown of "The Story of Diousim" or the crown of an arrow, insert a white pen on the back of the crown, and hold a board in hand.
3) Public services
Public service, also known as "provincial service" and "slave service".
Most of the official uniforms in the Song Dynasty inherited the styles of the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties: round neck, big sleeves, horizontal tassels at the bottom, belts around the waist, hoes on the head, and leather boots or brocade shoes on the feet.
For public services, purple is used for more than three items, Zhu for more than five items, green for more than seven items and blue for more than nine items.
During the prosperous period of the Northern Song Dynasty (1078- 1085), it was changed to purple level 4 or above, scarlet level 6 or above, and blue level 9 or above.
4) seasonal clothing (in short, it is given by the emperor according to the season)
Time clothes refer to the clothes given to officials by the imperial court in Song Dynasty every year according to the season, including robes, coats and clothing fabrics.
The brocade fabric given to attendants and civil and military officials is called "Chen Liao Ao Zi Brocade". These brocade fabrics are related to birds and animals, including Yimen, Yun, Lion, Practice Magpie, Bao Jin, Bao Jin and so on.
5) Luo shirt (summer uniform)
That is, the summer household clothes of emperors and ministers are all made of light and soft plain yarn with sparse holes. The lapel part has distinctive structure. Lapels overlap up and down to form lapels, which are fixed with ties.
6) Waist wear
The official uniforms in Song Dynasty also followed the waist-binding system of official uniforms in Han and Tang Dynasties.
As in the Tang Dynasty, officials who are qualified to wear purple uniforms must wear "fish bags" made of gold, silver or copper around their waists to distinguish official products.
The belt is also an important part of the belt. There are two kinds of belts: one is leather with raccoons embedded in it. The material and quantity of raccoons are related to official positions, such as the emperor is jade and the minister is gold, silver and copper. The other is made of silk crepe and other fabrics, called "Le Si", which is used to tie brocade robes, support the abdomen and play with children.
Lu You's Notes on the Old Learning Temple (Volume 2) said: "The predecessors said that it was disrespectful to recite the child with purple silk to spread the waist. I didn't go to Laibo until Master Cai went to visit relatives. "
7) Military service
Military uniforms are backup wartime uniforms.
There were two armies in the Song Dynasty, the Imperial Army and the Xiang Army. The imperial army is the royal regular army, and the Xiang army is the local state and county army. There are some differences in military uniforms between the two armies.
According to Ceng Gongliang's "Wu Jing Zong Yao" in the Northern Song Dynasty, the armor is customized, covering the chest and back with the armor body and tying it from the shoulder with a belt. The waist is tied with a belt from the back to the front, with two knee-length skirts hanging down from the waist, and the upper body of the armor is draped over the shoulders.
Pocket round bowl, suffix neck protector. The top is protruding and decorated with a bunch of long tassels, which looks solid and dignified.
According to the History of Song Dynasty, there are many kinds of armor, such as shining armor, chain mail, chain mail, black lacquered armor with the word "Shun Shan", bright armor, etc. There is also a kind of armor made of leather with thin copper or iron pieces attached to it.