From latex and leather materials, helmets, masks, headgear to artificial limbs, designers tirelessly apply them to fashion. This unique artistic view is still called "FetishFashion", which contains a large number of "personal feelings" expressed by designers and expresses their feelings about the mainstream world with various "dress-up" themes.
No matter what its real meaning is, as a person who can find his love and * * * in this unique element, then this element is particularly valuable! As a minority culture that dare not speak publicly at present, perhaps those hidden elements can also bring some comfort! Today, let's take a look at how many hidden expressions of minority culture have you read behind the unique elements such as helmet, mask and hood?
In September last year, Kim attended New York Fashion Week in the spring and summer collections of Vetements20 19. The mask with zipper and loop elements is full of Gimp meaning. There are also many mask shapes in this series. Designer DemnaGvasalia is constantly exploring this sensitive fetishism culture, but at the same time, he is also fighting war and chaos with a brutal and provocative attitude, which his hometown of Georgia has experienced. Although some shapes have a strong Gimp meaning, the bound masks are more like masked opponents, extremes and attitudes.
If Vetements conveys the ultimate aesthetics with fetish and designer's worldview, RichardQuinn's Gimp world is gorgeous and diverse. Singer KimPetras once wore the brand's 202 1 autumn/winter series on the red carpet of MTVVMA this year, and the black latex body-shaping dress was blessed with floral dresses, which also had a strong visual effect.
RichardQuinn has always played GimpSuits thoroughly, and he is very good at integrating fetishism culture into various roles. So in this series, we can see that GimpSuits run through the surreal world full of psychedelic colors, such as street corners, dances and even dreams, which are charming but dangerous.
To say why GimpSuits have become the mainstream trend of major shows in the past two years, we may start with two sets of GimpSuits by CardiB and DojaCat.
At the beginning of the year, CardiB appeared in the RichardOrlinski sculpture collection exhibition in Paris wearing GimpSuits. This suit, made of all-black rubber, extends from the mask to the handbag, and is hung with ornaments such as keys, copper coins and shells, which symbolizes the collision between the products of retro nature and the "futurism" theme of MarineSerre20 19 autumn and winter series. GimpSuits wearers are like the survivors of eschatology and the mutating creatures under the ecological crisis, slowly coming towards us.
As for DojaCat, on the stage of this year's Grammy Awards Ceremony, JeanPaulGaultier and VexClothing jointly played the future female warrior, and the all-black latex half-hood was integrated with the long black ponytail. DojaCat showed his figure curve under the shape of this tights, and explained his future role image on the stage with stage laser and mechanical sound effects.
Chaos, psychedelic and futuristic are all in the hands of designers, which can be expressed through GimpSuits. In fact, GimpSuits became a "good medicine" for people to heal wounds during the epidemic. They hope that through GimpSuits, they can clamor for the abnormal relationship between the dominant and obedient society under the epidemic situation, so as to compare what is more ridiculous than now? Therefore, in this magical real world, GimpSuits, like "mutants" in the doomsday world, invaded people's visual nerves and used more "tasteful" aesthetics to alleviate the impact brought by the current world.
Gimpsuits' Past Lives
Although GimpSuits are "quoted" too much in today's fashion world, in fact, the "real players" in BD5M scoff at the name GimpSuits, or rather "Gimp". But the culprit is the phrase "BringouttheGimp" in the movie "Pulp Fiction". In the "Golden Watch" chapter of the film, a lame man wearing a tight leather coat and a hood is called out by the owner Maynard to stare at the gangster Martha. Since then, this cowardly and morbid "Gimp" has not only referred to fetishism and sub, but its low-level and insulting image has also strengthened the stereotype of the public.
However, if we check the origin of Gimp, the word Gimp can be understood as "decorative ornaments for sewing and embroidery" and "physically disabled or lame people" Although these meanings are subtly related to fetishism and BD5M culture, before Pulp Fiction, there was no official information or publication using the word gimp to collectively refer to these people who like to wear tight suits. This group prefers to call themselves "tight suits".
Therefore, before the name GimpSuits appeared, AtomAge's publications in 1970s only referred to leather or rubber clothing or tights as "clothing", "outsourcing", "rubber clothing" and "fit suit". This fashion Bible, then known as fetishism and BD5M culture, was founded by British fashion designer JohnSutcliffe at the suggestion of a friend. In addition to recording the most popular leather and rubber fashion designs at that time, it also hopes to express to women in another way the reasons why men like to watch them wear leather clothes.
As a result, all this was not noticed by women, and the circulation of magazines was average. However, unconvinced, JohnSutcliffe has produced more versions of publications, such as AtomAgeInternational, AtomAgeRubberist with rubber and latex tights and masks, and AtomAgeBondage with 5M theme. Although they were later searched by the police because of their sensitivity, these forward-looking magazine shapes have influenced brands like Vetements so far.
While JohnSutcliffe was busy designing and starting a magazine, a boutique located at 430 King's Road in London took a fancy to the designer's work and hoped to introduce his leather/rubber clothes into the store. 1974, the "Sex" store began to sell fetish clothes of AtomAge, She-and-Me and motorcycle clothes such as zippers and leather designed by VivienneWestwood and MalcolmMcLaren.
From fetishes to punk costumes, "sex" customers cover the rudder group. Despite different needs, VivienneWestwood blends leather and rubber clothing into fashion well. In the same year, British superstar DavidBowie noticed the avant-garde of this kind of clothing with a keen sense of fashion. At that time, he was preparing for the stage modeling of DiamondDogs, and took a series of polaroid photos with a holster.
Although all this is still inconclusive, the mystery about where DavidBowie's headdress came from and whether PeterCook's headdress came from "sex" remains unsolved. But MalcolmMcLaren on the other side began to "make trouble" and challenged Britain's conservative and repressive attitude towards sex culture with Tee printed with "Cambridge rapist".
VivienneWestwood, as one of the founders of punk fashion, we can still see the shadow of fetishism and BD5M fashion from this cultural costume. The popularity of punk elements such as binding, pins, Chocker and leather/rubber clothing may also be VivienneWestwood's "concrete carrier" to promote the idea of "apricot freedom". When they abandoned the hippie culture that also spread "apricot freedom" in the 1960s and 1970s, perhaps only clothing such as fetishism and BD5M could meet their "expression needs".
GimpSuits not only influenced punk culture, but also was one of the important dresses of LeighBowery, the prince of underground nightclubs in 1980s. Compared with the disco style in the 1970s, young people in the 1980s yearned for "neo-romanticism". They would wear heavy makeup and retro Victorian clothes and hang out in major nightclubs. LeighBowery has become the most avant-garde and curious "soul figure" in nightclubs such as BlitzClub and Taboo.
On the other hand, GimpSuits and LeighBowery are complementary. 1994 LeighBowery cooperated with designer LeeBenjamin to create a set of full-length tights made of PVC. Although the ingenious trousers design attracted the artist's attention, the material limitation forced LeighBowery to tighten his body, and even going to the toilet was a problem.
Even if the fashion style at that time was rebellious and avant-garde, it could not satisfy LeighBowery's "heavy taste" aesthetics, including those GimpSuits that were still a few. LeighBowery is also a designer. She decorated dresses and headdresses with satin with dots, flowers and sequins, and designed gorgeous suits like Victorian court dresses. LeighBowery created GimpSuits with a new outline different from "tradition".
At the same time, LeighBowery's GimpSuits shape had a great influence on later designers. GarethPugh's inflatable rubber gipsuits, JeanPaulGaultier's polka-dot tight gipsuits, the most obvious of which is RichardQuinn's gipsuits with pearl gems, flowers and texture elements, all of which have LeighBowery's obvious and unique gipsuits modeling style and continue the artist's avant-garde and rebellious aesthetic spirit.
From the beginning, it was purely used by fetishists and people bound by culture, and was used by "sex" to "excessive" punk culture, and now it has been put into different "role-playing" by designers. GimpSuits has been given too many new meanings by the fashion world. Whether it is "hedonism" or for the purpose of resistance, the tight-fitting shape of GimpSuits is not as terrible as everyone thinks. And those who like to be bound by tight clothes may just want to get rid of the "real role" in this way, and only when they are close can they show their true self with confidence.
Perhaps many readers have focused on the pictures of this article after reading it. There are always some elements in these pictures that we already know and understand, so how much do you know about the expressions behind these elements?