Modern people want to thoroughly understand the fashion concept of the Tang Dynasty, in fact, it is enough to master only one principle and two basic points. One principle here is that the Tang Dynasty was civilized and open, with diverse costume designs, and men, women and children were representatives of fashion shows. The other two basic points are that there are only gender differences in fashion design, that is, men and women. Who was the most fashionable man or woman in the Tang Dynasty? It is estimated that both of them can get 99 points.
First of all. In the Tang Dynasty, men chose different clothes on different occasions, and different occasions were mainly divided into crown clothes and regular clothes.
Crown dress refers to a slightly formal dress. In the eyes of the Tang dynasty, the crown suit is the man's dress in the eyes of modern people. In the Tang Dynasty, occasions such as offering sacrifices, offering sacrifices, getting married and accepting commendations became more formal. At this time, we should dress formally to show respect for the occasion and others.
"Sui Shu" records: "Everyone hides in the imperial palace, and the Buddha takes medicine." Because at the turn of the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the imperial court had a great reform on men's crown clothes, so men in the Tang Dynasty had to hide some clothes during the reform period. Soon after, the reform ended and the crown service became more popular.
The Tang government also promulgated relevant laws and regulations. For example, the Dressing Order clearly stipulates that "the emperor's crown clothing includes big crown, long crown, emerald crown, embroidered crown, mysterious crown and so on. And the number of formal dresses of the emperor is as high as 12. " Although the average man in the Tang Dynasty didn't wear more than 10 kinds of crown clothes like the emperor with the highest level in the ruling center, there was only one principle in the minds of men in the Tang Dynasty, that is, they must dress appropriately when attending formal occasions, because it was more in line with the requirements of social culture.
In the Tang Dynasty, men would choose uniforms when traveling in ordinary occasions. After comparison, it can be concluded that it is used more frequently and in a wider range than crown clothing. After all, people who need to attend formal occasions in life will not occupy the highest proportion in life. Sui Shu also mentioned that in the Tang Dynasty, even men had to wear formal clothes to attend various occasions, but they should also pay attention to the concept of hierarchy. For example, officials below level 6 are more in line with the requirements of the system, and officials above level 5 can wear slightly darker clothes, such as purple robes.
Regular clothes refer to the clothes that men chose in routine activities in the Tang Dynasty. At that time, the aesthetic concept of aristocratic men in the Tang Dynasty was particularly avant-garde, and the faint milky yellow was one of the clothing colors sought after by men in the Tang Dynasty. In Zi Tongzhi Jian, it is recorded that the yellow robe was released and the purple robe was worn. This sentence is a description of the change of clothing on the way back to Chang 'an in Xuanzong's youth. Before changing clothes, Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty chose a pale yellow robe, but before he was about to enter the tower, he returned the yellow coat outside and put on a purple robe.
Although men's wear in the Tang Dynasty could not follow one's inclinations, men in the Tang Dynasty still had many choices, even though the quality requirements were extremely high at that time. As long as it does not violate the boundaries, all clothing choices and color matching are completely free to play, and it is considered to be a dynasty with a relatively high degree of liberalization in fashion development.
Secondly. Men also have a lot of room to choose clothes. You can freely adjust your clothes from the choice of hats and accessories to shoes.
Men in the Tang Dynasty can wear hats whether attending formal occasions or in life. In the choice of hats by men in the Tang Dynasty, the prefix "Fu" was the most sought after. Fu prefix is a style similar to the black hat in the eyes of future generations.
"Clouds on the Foothills" records that "the Jade Emperor was blown on his back with his head wrapped and his abdomen flat". These simple words are actually a happy image of Xuanzong in his life. Tang Xuanzong was so happy that his stomach was exposed, but he would never take off the hoe he was wearing. This picture shows from the side that the hat is an indispensable object in the eyes of men in the Tang Dynasty, not only a social and cultural trend, but also a part of men's life at that time.
Men in the Tang Dynasty also had more freedom in the choice of clothes. The clothing here refers to the decorations that are randomly matched on the clothing. In the Tang Dynasty, men could choose underwear, belts and so on.
Shen Congwen mentioned in "Research on Ancient Chinese Costumes": "Men in the Tang Dynasty usually lifted their robes and tied them between their belts to facilitate their work." It can be seen from this description that men in the Tang Dynasty had the idea of wearing belts. It is also fashionable for men to wear belts in the Tang Dynasty, because the clothes in the Tang Dynasty are too generous. Tie a belt between the wide and fluffy robes, which can not only separate the upper and lower parts, but also facilitate the convenience of life. It is a beautiful and practical garment.
"Tale of the Five Kingdoms" also mentioned: "One towel after another, one shirt a day." This sentence reflects the life that men in the Tang Dynasty might change their T-shirts every day. Sweaters, similar to shorts, were widely sought after by men in the Tang Dynasty because of their lightness and breathability.
In the Tang Dynasty, men also had different choices for footwear in different classes, mainly straw sandals, wooden shoes and boots. Boots were the most common choice in the eyes of men in the Tang Dynasty, especially when hoeing. Wearing a pair of boots under your feet was regarded as the most standard collocation for men at that time.
In A Dream in the North, it is said that "you have never been against Zhao Wei". This sentence was answered by Xue in the Tang Dynasty at that time, meaning that he was answering the questioner what size boots he wore. This shows that the heating degree of boots in the Tang Dynasty is really not lower than that of hoes.
First of all. On different occasions, women in the Tang Dynasty also had differences in dresses and banquet costumes. The clothes worn by women in the Tang Dynasty were equivalent to those made by men at that time. Not only the colors are graded, but even the types are restricted.
In Sui Shu, it is mentioned that there are 12 kinds of jewelry for the empress of the Tang Dynasty, and the choice range of princess, princess, princess, official wife and ordinary class women decreases in turn. It can be seen that in the Tang Dynasty, both men and women were strictly restricted in the choice of clothing colors and types.
Banquet dress refers to the clothes that women can choose at home in Tang Dynasty. "Old Tang Book" mentioned: "The customs are extravagant, they don't follow the rules, and they continue to be splendid, just like people ... from the palace to the horse, they are all imitations, and the nobles are outspoken." The regulation of women's uniforms in the Tang Dynasty was not as strict as that of formal dresses. How many luxurious clothes a woman wants to wear in her life, how beautiful the design is, and how she collides with a high-ranking woman are all unconstrained. As long as they are happy, there is no difference between high and low.
Secondly. Women in the Tang Dynasty were favored to the greatest extent in the choice of clothing, mainly around hats, ornaments and shoes.
In the Tang Dynasty, there were many kinds of hats for women to choose from, but Hu Mao and Weihart were the most popular. "Don Yao Hui" mentioned: "The hats are all in the crowd, and there can be no cover." This sentence comes from the legal provisions of the Tang Dynasty at that time, that is to say, women in the Tang Dynasty were free to choose their hats, even if they were bigger and exaggerated, but the only principle to be observed was not to cover their faces.
This shows that in the Tang Dynasty, what kind of hats did women want to wear? How to wear a hat? Relatively speaking, the degree of liberalization is relatively high. Of course, it is precisely because of the reduction of the sense of bondage that the diversification of women's free hats in the Tang Dynasty also promoted the fashion development in the Tang Dynasty.
In terms of decorations, women in the Tang Dynasty also had a wide range of choices, such as wearing cloaks, inlaying favorite ornaments, ribbons, shawls and so on. This is very common. Here, it can be reflected by a sentence in Yuan Gui: "In recent years, women's wear has been unusually generous." This sentence highlights the changes made by women in the Tang Dynasty in clothing. The reason why clothing has changed in recent years lies in the continuous study of women in the Tang Dynasty, which has made many changes.
In terms of shoes, women in the Tang Dynasty had too many choices. For example, flat shoes, bird's head shoes, lily shoes, five-point shoes, small-headed shoes, wooden shoes, five-color shoes and so on. It can be seen that where there are women, there is really a big market. However, in the life of the Tang Dynasty, the shoes that women often wear must be high heels.
In "On Ancient Chinese Costume", it is mentioned that there are many styles of shoes, such as pointed, square, round or square ... Not only the shapes are varied, but also the shoe-making techniques are very diverse, such as painting flowers and birds on the front of high-heeled shoes, matching them with 6 colors and outlining them with gold. Even if modern women have a wide range of choices, there were many fashion items in the Tang Dynasty hundreds of years ago. Why not be proud of the people of the Tang Dynasty?
Judging from people's attention to clothing in the Tang Dynasty, people's fashion concept at that time, the final answer is that people in the Tang Dynasty love their lives too much, so they are willing to put more thoughts on making themselves more beautiful. Compared with the ancients, modern people can choose more diversified channels and styles, but if we look closely at the love of life in the Tang Dynasty, modern people seem to have been dumped for several streets.
At this time, we have to reflect on one thing: no matter which dynasty, if you want to chase fashion, as long as you make your heart for life hotter, then fashion will naturally approach you. At that time, you and I, who are full of serious attitude, will meet the stage everywhere.
References:
Sui Shu.
Clothing order
Comprehensive Mirror to Aid in Government
Cloud foot veil
Research on Chinese Ancient Costume
The story of the five kingdoms
Talk about a dream in the north
Old Tang book
Don ...
Book house yuangui
On ancient Chinese clothing.